Gary Flinn

I'm trying to weigh up how much it could cost me to correct all the faults I've contacted Don Trimming and been quoted £245 for a new Hood in ICI Vynide as per original, its a further £295 for them to fit it, no doubt new seals and retainers will be needed so add £100 for these too. I could fit it myself, I've done a couple before but getting all the creases out around the rear quarter windows and side's is an acquired art, Don trimming did my last Mohair one and made a great job, so I would probably let the professionals do it. An exchange steering rack is around £235 and the uprated UJ £35 off Canley's (The rack may just need shimming I suppose?) Brakes, who knows but maybe around £250 plus if I end up renewing Calipers, Pipes and hoses Diff and gearbox seals are cheap enough, I've got a re-bush kit for the gearbox so no problems with that the other bits are minor and I can no doubt sort for minimal expense. Like you say the engine will be the big expense, I just hope the thrusts haven't dropped out and the Block is knackered? The Bodywork and paint are in excellent fettle, in fact its probably the best one I've looked at so far I need to make a decision before the weekend🤔. Gary

I've told the owner I will make a decision by the weekend, as much as I like the car and it's low mileage/low owners I didn't really want one that needed loads of work? Besides the Engine issues there are other things that need sorting and money spending on them:- 1. A new hood is needed 2. The Brakes need a good sorting out (Heavy pull to the right) 3. There are some minor issues with the drivers door Handle push and the window is very stiff to wind up and down. 4. Gearbox and Diff oil leaks 5. The Gear change is vague and needs a re-bush kit fitting (I've got one of these though) 6. I found one minor hole in the rear nearside floor that needs repairing, the rest of the Chassis, body mounting points and floor seems sound. 7. Excessive play in the steering rack or steering UJ or both. I asked the owner if he would M.O.T. test the car for me (It's not been done since 2018) he refused stating if it failed (I'm sure it would on the brakes) it would be on the car's history and he would have to rectify faults before selling it? So, I need to allow some additional money for correcting what ever it fails on, I won't drive a car I own without a current M.O.T. The other issue that bugs me is I ideally wanted a car fitted with Over-drive, this is a standard 4 speed, so If I wanted to convert to Over-drive that's even more expense (£1.5k to £2k I reckon) I've been keeping an eye on prices and they have definitely dropped over the past year or so, some recent sales at Auction house have been around £5k to £8K, although some have been dubiously rebuilt car's, this one is original and straight and I could find no traces of filler on it when I went round all the usual rot spots with a magnet, so it's a bit different from the norm. Regards Gary

Ok thanks Johny Something is badly worn then, I used to get 25 PSI minimum at Tick over with my old Vitesse when hot. I need to do some thinking and make a decision by Friday. Gary

Nice Not strictly correct for a Vitesse though with the recessed bores/domed pistons and pricey to boot, it's been listed a long while. I had a new Crank off TD Fitchett's when I rebuilt my last Vitesse engine, I take it you need to add a camshaft to the short engine though?

Maybe the wear isn't too excessive on the crank then if it's quiet, I suppose it could be a faulty oil pressure gauge (I wish) but the thrust problem and funny noise from the front on depressing the clutch pedal indicate to me its an engine strip😞 At what pressure does the oil warning light come on, from my distant memory 7.5 PSI rings a Bell? Gary

Dan It was my mate who was watching the front pully move, it's hard to be precise but there is definitely a problem with excessive movement and the thrust washers. The weird thing was I would have expected some Knocking/Rattling noise if the oil lights coming on? The engine was as smooth and quiet as anything apart from the noise from the front of the engine when the clutch was depressed. I'm budgeting on worse case I reckon, the car is not without other issues, a new Soft top is needed, there is excessive play in the Steering (Rack or UJ Worn) and the brakes are dangerous, the brake issue may be due to lack of use over the past couple of years and I should be able to resolve without it costing a fortune. The Engine will be the biggest expense/hassle and knowing me if I do buy it, I will start tidying the engine bay and buying all sorts of new bits for it 😁😁😁 All part of the fun of the Classic car hobby I suppose? Gary

I've now had a response from the current owner in reply to my list of faults/issues with the car and also what he will take for the car, I need to think about it and I will make a decision by the end of the week. Watch this space! Gary

I'm sure I've read this too, if that's the case the block should be saveable? I don't think the thrusts have fallen out, but I won't know for sure till the engine is stripped. I've had someone who's in the 2000/2500 Register message me who rebuilds these engines quite regularly and he reckons if it doesn't need a rebore and the crank doesn't need grinding around £1K for all the parts, so that's not too bad. Regards Gary

Pete They did, but I can't find anything now. However, I would want to rebuild the original engine myself, I'm just wondering if anyone's done this recently and how much it costs for all the parts and machining? I'm also worried that the block might be scrap due to the thrust washer issue too😓 Gary

I'm considering purchasing a Vitesse that has an engine problem and will need a rebuild The Oil light is on at tick-over and I believe the thrust washers are worn out (Approx. 3/16" of play on the crank when the clutch is depressed) I've rebuilt the engine on my old Vitesse and seem to recall I spent well over £1,000 on parts & machining, but this was 20 years ago. What do you all think it would cost at todays prices, the engine doesn't burn any oil so I may get away with out a rebore and new Pistons? Regards

Yes, I'm always amazed that dealers seem to turn them around so quickly, the one I looked at in Chesterfield was sold to a dealer, he had it listed for 2 days and then it was sold. I was quite annoyed about that one, if I had been given time to view it a second time in the light of day I might have well bought it but the owner was impatient to sell I reckon I've still not heard back from the owner of the 47k miles car, I wonder if a dealers moving in on this one?!! Regards Gary

I will continue looking and hopefully get one before Summers here, it just gets very frustrating that I keep looking and can't find a decent one both mechanically and bodily. I know I'm fussy, but there are a lot of mis-described cars out there, one mans immaculate is another mans average. PS - I'm still waiting for the owner to come back to me with a reply. Gary

Yes, I may never find another like my old one, I've no regrets about selling it, I wanted to try some other classics and have enjoyed both the Tr5 and the Tiger. I do keep in touch with Martin the current custodian of my old Vitesse, but I don't believe he wishes to sell at present. I do wonder if there are any other low mileage, low owner cars still out there, the last one was made in May 1971, so near on 53 years ago so it's very unlikely. I will keep searching, I'm sure more will become available once spring is here. Gary

Nothing with regards to the Main Body, Paintwork and interior, mechanically though you can tell it's not been M.o.t. Tested since 2018! 1. Dangerous Brakes (A Strong pull to the right) 2. Holes in the rear floor pan 3. Gearbox and Differential oil leaks. 4. The hood needs renewing 5. Drivers door handle not working correctly and loose 6. Gear change needs re-bushing 7. Excessive play in the Steering (Worn rack or UJ or both) 8. The worst issue was a knackered engine (47K Miles supposedly?) With regards to the Engine, after a 8 mile test drive, on returning there was a strange noise from the front of the engine when depressing the clutch, when my mate watched the front crank pulley it was moving around 3/16" when I depressed the clutch! Knackered thrust washers or they may have even fallen out? Also, the oil light was flickering at tick over then remained on fully, so it looks like the crank and bearings are shot to me, although the engine was quiet when driving and revving it up which is strange, it could be a faulty Oil pressure sender but do I want to take that risk? My mate who viewed the car suspects the worn thrusts may have been caused by a previous owner riding the clutch all the time, whatever's caused it the engine needs removing, investigating and a probable rebuild I reckon. I suppose some of the above faults are to be expected as the cars not been used much in 2 years and some of the faults wouldn't cost a fortune to rectify, but the owner wants £12K for it, am I expecting too much for it to be road worthy? How much for a Triumph 6 Engine rebuild these day, I'm guessing at least £2K in parts and machining costs then there's all the labour involved with removal and replacement and no doubt some other ancillaries will need replacing too. So unless he's prepared to knock a lot of money off I won't be bothering with this one either, its a shame because the general bodywork, paint and Panel fit are excellent and the interior matches a 47K mile car. Maybe I'm just to fussy in my old age. The search continues I reckon. Gary

Another wasted afternoon I'm afraid, the search continues I reckon.

Yes, I must agree. Temporary Insurance all sorted with Adrian Flux so I'm ok to drive it now😊

I'm going to sort the Insurance today, I don't reckon I'll be able to get agreed value insurance though, as the Cars not mine and the last company I was with (Lancaster) insisted on several photo's of the car from all angles which I just haven't got, I will see what they say. I have asked the owner to take me for a test drive but he's refused, stating he's struggling to operate the Clutch and steering due to old age. Gary

This car was undersealed from new by the factory by the looks of it, but after 50+ years it could be doing more harm than good now😮

I could ask the owner to get it M.O.T. tested and say I'll pay I suppose. Then if it does fail on anything (Probably likely) I could use it as a bargaining tool to get the price reduced? I need to have a look underneath at the Chassis and floor pans, just because it's a low mileage car (47K) doesn't mean it's not rusty underneath. I'll keep you all posted how I get on Gary

I'm taking a mate with me to view and he's going to see if he's insured to drive any other car via his policy, I cancelled my Classic Car insurance with Lancaster when I sold my Sunbeam back in July, I have a company car so that is insured via work. The lack of recent M.O.T. testing puts me off the car, I know if I do make an offer on it and buy it, I will get it M.O.T. tested and this could open up a potential can of worms with extra costs to get it to pass! I need to make sure there are no serious rust issues underneath that will cause it to fail, I was tempted to offer to pay the current owner the M.O.T. test fee and get him to get it done before I make an offer? Gary

I just wondered how many of you currently get your Classic M.O.T. Tested still? I know it's not been required since 2018 (I believe?) I used to get mine done every year for peace of mind and also as a bargaining tool should I have ever been involved in an Accident. I'm going to view (For the second time) a nice low mileage/low previous owners (3) Vitesse Mk2 Convertible at the weekend, the cars not been used for a couple of years but is currently taxed, the elderly owner is unable to drive it anymore however due to health issues and is unable to take me for a test drive. The car was last M.O.T. tested in 2018 and the M.O.T. History prior to this is not good to read with mention of corrosion to the outriggers, Main Chassis and floor, I'm going to take a trolley jack, a couple of Axle Stands and a powerful head torch so I can have a good look underneath for rust I also want to test drive the car so will probably arrange for 1 day insurance, I just hope it is safe and road worthy, the owner states it did have recent work on the brakes. Regards Gary

Another reason I tilted the front bulkhead slightly was to stop the door Quarterlights catching the 'A' Posts, you may have similar issues when you re-fit the doors? Tilting forwards gives you a bit more adjustment on the doors to prevent catching Gary

These Body Build notes are worth a read and might help? Getting a decent Bonnet fit can be a nightmare and compromises may have to be made I'm afraid if the bonnets had extensive repairs I made slightly longer hinge plates out of Stainless steel when rebuilding my old Vitesse, I also tilted the front bulkhead forwards using additional spacer washers under the rear most front bulkhead body mounts, it definitely helped. Keep at it. Gary Triumph Service Training Notes Herald Body.pdf

Colin Yes, I agree, it looks very straight and the mileage of 27K Looks genuine, it appears to have sold already too. I continue to search for a similar condition/mileage Vitesse, hopefully a few more will appear for sale over the next couple of months, I live in hope. Gary

Just spotted this beauty on E-Bay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186235484701?hash=item2b5c7ffa1d:g:lxUAAOSw8kBllRnC Oh how I wish for a similar mileage/condition Vitesse🫣 Gary