JumpingFrog
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Posts posted by JumpingFrog
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Are you sure you have a single-rail with a D-type? Such a combination shouldn't exist from the factory, even with aftermarket parks I've never heard of a single-rail mainshaft for a D-type overdrive.
I think actually you mean 3-synchro and 4-synchro gearboxes? Both should be 3-rail (outward appearance is the same)?
The 4-synchro is certainly no weaker than the 3-synchro, the straight cut first gear on the 3-synchro doesn't last indefinitely and the ones I've dismantled have been pretty badly worn.
Unfortunately you can't just bolt an OD to a non-OD gearbox, you will also need to change the main shaft, 3-synchro and 4-synchro mainshafts are different. -
1 hour ago, avivalasvegas said:
Roger’s shock proof oil does not specify it is yellow metal safe. The MT90 oil in the first post on this thread does. Both are made by Redline. I’m guessing that means I go with MT90 in the tranny and diff?
I don't know about using MT-90 in a diff. Red line's website specifically says not to use it in diffs... But also MT-90 is GL-4 which is an EP rating, so I don't really see a technical reason why not.
QuoteMT-LV, MTL, MT-85 & MT-90 are not for use in differentials with hypoid gears
Might be worth asking Red Line, from a quick google it sounds like all Red Line products are yellow metal safe. I admit this is a bit of a minefield... -
The original oil Triumph recommended for gearbox/differential is Castrol EP90, you can still buy this. But oil technology has moved on in 50+ years.
So, I'm with Roger on this. The differential oil in particular is often neglected and a pain if it hasn't been modified with a drain plug.
A typical differential is ~95% efficient, which means the other 5% is going to heat, there's not so much air flow where it is, tucked up over the exhaust between the chassis legs... They do get quite hot.
But I believe most of the Triumph differentials have copper washers under the sun and planet gears so it's also necessary to make sure whatever oil you use is yellow metal safe. -
21 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:
Hello All
I use their heavy duty EP oil in Spittys Differential as it does not hold much an gets hot on motorways and it seems to stay the same colour not go black!
Roger
Hi Roger,
Slightly OT: But exactly which Red line product did you use in your differential? Maybe this one? https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1023-red-line-heavy-shockproof-gear-oil-75w-140.aspx?VariantID=1260
Personally I've only used one of Red line's products before, but I was impressed with it - their CV-2 grease, very good for wheel bearings. -
The different lengths before the first bend, 1200, 12/50 and 13/60 exhausts are all different. I think you have two 1200 exhausts (the longer ones) and one 12/50 exhaust (shorter)?
In general I agree about the dimensions being not true to the originals. I had one stainless 13/60 exhaust (I can't remember who made it) that didn't line up with the silencer hanger at all until a 10cm section was cut out of it. -
Canley's is where I got mine from, the price is okay for a niche low volume part. As far as I know, the rationale for remaking them is that the supply of original adaptors dried up sometime ago. But maybe some specialists have some stashed away.
On 30/03/2021 at 14:19, Nigel Clark said:That's interesting, though I thought the J Type O/D needs a different adaptor plate from the D Type because it's larger. There are different part numbers for these plates, 313085 for J Type and 305137 for the D Type, both to fit the three rail 'box.
This is correct you can use 313085 for both J-Type and D-type overdrives, but 305137 will only fit a D-type overdrive. Nick Jones confirmed this for me a while ago. The J-type adaptor has a bigger void on the OD side to clear the pump cam IIRC.
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David Manners sell "Woodhead" - https://www.abingdonmgparts.co.uk/product/shock-absorber-rear%3a--herald%2c-vitesse%2c-spitfire%2c-gt6/gsa385woodhead
I suspect like Monroe, this won't be the same as the Woodhead of old.
Not a recommendation, as I've still not fitted the pair I have (designated as spares), just another option. Although they are all metal construction unlike the unbranded ones.
If you want Konis, cheapest way to get them is from Bastuck in Germany (around £80ea + P&P, so still not cheap), they would be my preference as I've not managed to kill mine... -
Wishbones, shock absorber, ball joints and trunnions are the same, nothing else is quite the same. Also spring from a GT6 will be stiffer and won't suit a Spitfire.
It's a popular upgrade to fit GT6 uprights and brakes onto a Spitfire as the brakes are bigger (Girling Type 16) and the wheel bearings are beefier. You can't use Type 14s on GT6 uprights as the spacing on the upright is different and the disc is thicker. -
I know that Canley's definitely isn't the same as Bastuck, and as Ian says Rimmers could come from either Bastuck or Canley's. I don't believe the alloy used is the issue, but instead the porosity is due to problems in the casting process.
Worth reading this:http://www.wbclassics.com/content/water-pump-housing-aluminum-triumph-gt6-tr250-tr6
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I'm with Pete on this, ignore the factory dimension, the flange will drive the trunnion assembly to where it needs to be. A while ago I was talking to a retired mechanic who did his fair share of these. He told me he hated the job (mostly due to the taper fit), but also he struggled to position the housing correctly (he used to mark the shafts before disassembly). He had a eureka moment when I explained doing it the way Pete says.
Picture of one of my old driveshafts (since scrapped), you can see the marks where the bearing has been, looks like your housing definitely needs to go further (which would agree with the gap on the inner flinger). I'm not convinced all the threaded sections are the same length either, I've seen some longer and some shorter. The way you're measuring is going to cause a discrepancy as you're following the taper rather than staying parallel with the shaft.P.s. the other gotcha with these is the inner seal, these are fitted "backwards" such that grease can escape but water can't get in. Oh and don't forget the outer flinger which keeps grease from the brakes.
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Is it leaking or overflowing? 4 years is definitely enough time for the rubber o-ring that seals the jet holder to the float bowl to go hard. Very common place for leaks.
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1 minute ago, Spitfire6 said:
I wonder why the Spitfire 4 is 60PSI minimum. Clearances are the same?
My only guess is it's due to the Spitfire (pre Mk.IV) having cam bearings? All Herald and later Spitfire (Mk.IV) engines have the cam running directly in the block.
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FWIW County pistons are actually quite good by most accounts, consistent weights and consistent sizes in my sets. The rings packs they're supplied with are okay too, made by a major manufacturer (Grant).
Probably 4-ring pistons are a hang over from when the SC engine first appeared @ 803cc in the Standard Eight, I'm pretty sure even the 948 only ever had 3-rings.
Can someone shed some light on the reason for standard size replacement sets to exist? I was under the impression that bores should be bored to the size of *each* piston to get correct clearances, and with factory pistons coming in multiple grades, it seems odd to me that you'd be able to just replace these and maintain correct clearances? -
I think there's only really one company supplying valves off the shelf now, which will be County/XRN, I don't think they do any actual manufacturing. AFAIK they supply everyone be it Canley's, Paddocks or Rimmers... Maybe Moss/TriumphTune ones will be different. However, there are other companies like G&S valves who are well regarded and will make you custom valves, no idea on the cost and you'd have to provide the profile and specs you want (maybe they would advise and copy a sample valve?)... Also no idea about minimum quantities...
Probably more information than you ever wanted to know about valve materials:
http://www.gsvalves.co.uk/assets/g-s-technical-infomation.pdfEdit:
Old topic on Triumph-Exp, good read containing comments from a certain marmite Triumph Tuning guru:
https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/spitfire-and-gt6-forum.8/hardened-valves.949405/ -
Be careful buying reproduction driveshafts, there's some poorly made ones where the UJ yoke detaches from the shaft after a few thousand miles. As I've had this happen, I can vouch for it not being a fun experience:
On sideways we've discussed this further, there appear to be at least two manufacturers, another manufacturer's driveshafts don't seem have this problem:http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/7973-spitfire-drive-shafts
I've told the suppliers about my problems, but never got much of a response or acknowledgement other than a refund. -
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To my eyes, your gearset looks like late TR7 (UKC8749 cluster), built into a 3-rail casing. But retaining a small-tip J-type main shaft (late Spitfire Mk.IV 1300?)...
UKC8749 top, UKC8963 (late Dolly 1850) bottom, only difference is second gear helix angle.
The part number for the 17T idler gear is UKC8750. The hub is UKC8748, you should still be able to find these parts somewhere. The Midget 1500 and Marina used these parts, Austin-Rover part number for the hub is DAM3982, these have a better made inner (forged not cast).
For your reverse gear problems, it's worth checking the spacer is correct too (apologies if I haven't quite understood the issue):See post #55.
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I'm pretty sure this is possible, I've seen photos of such a thing on sideways...
http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/6308-gt6-gearbox-strengthening/&do=findComment&comment=100541
Not the route I've gone down for my Dolomite 1850 gearbox in a 3-rail case, I bought 313085 from Canley's and a hybrid mainshaft from Mike Papworth. That takes care of the 1" difference but is definitely not cheap. Still not actually built it yet either... -
1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Ok Clive - so I'll throw myself on the mercy of the forum and wait for the preferred option before committing for four for a Herald. Obviously I want to go for the best and get the longest and most hard-wearing use out of them, so will hold off ordering any until I see what the consensus of opinion is.
You only need two, I wouldn't bother with the propshaft. The standard ones are adequate (on a standard car), they don't take anywhere near the punishment of the driveshafts.
We used them on the Herald we drove to Mongolia and back, they outlasted the driveshafts (that's another story). Around 18,000 miles covered with approx 3,000 on some properly bad roads (or just straight up unpaved). Still seemed okay when removed. I didn't buy mine from the club, I got them from LR direct as earlier suggested.
Some comparison pictures, rollers are bigger, bearing surface is bigger, weird plastic thrust washer things too...
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Not sure about galling. Could it be something along the lines of soft things being "abrasive", as they easily embed stuff (in this case probably carbon).
As this is the reason a soft rubber oil seal is able to wear a groove into a steel shaft: https://www.plantengineering.com/articles/repairing-shafts-scored-by-seals/
Just a guess of course, not a metallurgist. -
13 minutes ago, Paul H said:
UPDATE , changed the plugs , ht leads and the problem is still there though better defined as follows
She starts fine drives well on the flat at 40 mph ish then on my test route of 4 miles there is a long drag of a hill about 0.5 mile long . In the past I’ve been able to cruise up the hill with no issues at 60mph with or without overdrive now as soon as I hit the hill at 3k in 4th I get the start of the engine being “not happy “ and the engine faltering begins and clear signs something is wrong . After the hill it’s back to normal but keeping speeds to about 45 mph as the test run is on local roads . So where can I look to find the issue
We had something similar, but a bit more intermittent, seemingly hot weather exacerbated the problem (we were in Iran and it was 40-45c!). Although it'd also start backfiring out the carb.Of course after fiddling around with things the problem would go away for an hour or so. I was convinced it was fuel vaporisation at the time.
It turned out to be a dodgy low tension lead (bad crimp) from the dizzy to the coil. I'd be tempted to change it as a matter of elimination. Although maybe this problem is perhaps more likely on a 4-cylinder with the coil on the bulkhead.
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Could it be because you have the wrong jet? IIRC mini carbs at 45 degrees to the float bowls need the black jets, and Triumphs with the carbs at 90 degrees use the red jets. The black jets have a slightly longer tube which might relieve some of the twist?
I could be completely wrong of course! -
Never seen this before, so I delved into the parts catalogues...
The 1200 has 1x 104830 centre spring and 2x105120 springs. This could well be the longer spring you have.The 1300/1500 engines have 3x105120 springs plus spacers.
I don't think this is a standard thing, I think what's happened is someone's fitted the components from a 1200 rocker shaft onto a 1300/1500 assembly. The 1200 assembly has a different shaft and completely different pedestals.
FWIW, I've looked at the Dolomite parts manual and it shows the spacers:
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I'd say there is a high chance that the needle roller bearing has eaten through the driveshaft as you suggested. This is very common even when the bearings seem okay.
Perhaps it might be better to try and find a good used driveshaft? However, Pete gives a lot of useful information if you choose to do the job.
P.S. See https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/3850-reproduction-herald-driveshafts and http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/7973-spitfire-drive-shafts/ for information about the problems with some reproduction driveshafts. I've had no word as to whether or not anything has been done about this, but they still sell them.
Rear engine oil seal swap - scroll to seal
in Engine
Posted
There might be another way, assuming that the outer diameter of the end of the crank is the same between scroll and non-scroll cranks (it really should be, as it registers the flywheel, and flywheels are interchangeable).
You should be able to just use a shaft repair sleeve (speedisleeve) over the end of the existing crank, I believe you would need SKF CR99287.
Never tried it, but don't see why it wouldn't work unless the scroll is mangled and out of round? Maybe some kind of retaining compound (Loctite 603?) to make sure it stays put. You'd have to change the rear housing to the later type too, but that should be easy to find as its common to all small-chassis Triumph engines.