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ShaunW

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Posts posted by ShaunW

  1. Thanks scrapman, that's the sort of simple clear answer the govt should have front and center on the site when you type your reg in. I'm in the clear until 1july18, not long but I can relax now about a little test drive this weekend. I've enough to worry about listening for squeaks and rattles without having to listen out for sirens too. 

  2. 9 hours ago, Mjit said:

    You can fit the earlier 'block' number plate light to a later 'bubble' car/bumper, you just need to drill new holes for the block's mountings and bulb holders.  The block will cover the old bubble light mounting holes.

  3. 14 hours ago, Mad4classics said:

    Did you mean to have so many 14 inch tyre in the table? You've lost 175/70x 13 along with several others in your latest table.

    David

    The problem I've had is finding out what tyres are actually available. I thought it was a bit short of 13s but couldn't find a site that listed them all rather than just the ones company ABC were selling. 

  4. Thanks all. After a bit more thought I think Spitfire 2500 or 2.5 is the most appropriate. I'll try and find a reasonably priced 'Triumph' number plate light too I think. I don't like a lot of badges and stickers but felt she needed something to help educate passersby when she's parked. 

     

  5. I've noticed my car doesn't have any badging anywhere. Not even a Triumph logo on rear number plate lights (it's just two small domes on bumper).

    I'd like to somehow show that it's a convertable 6 (it was a '76 spit, but lots isn't incl the doors with quarterlights which I like)..anyway, has anyone done anything interesting when badging their mongrel.  Doesn't seem right having 'Spitfire' written on it. I was thinking about maybe 'Truimph" and "GT6C" either side of the boot lock but I didn't want just generic stick-on letters really. Maybe a GT6 Mk3 badge could be worked on somehow to change space for Mk3 to a "C". Near the bonnet catch looks a good place too.

    Ideas?

     

  6. 17 hours ago, JohnD said:

     FIA, both ignition switches, fuel pump 1 - wait for the note change, Fuel pump 2 - wait 20 seconds to flush the air out, half choke, no throttle, start, THEN fan and water pump!

    Sounds like you've got a Merlin engine under your bonnet !

    What's FIA?, 2 ignition switches?  2 fuel pumps and a seperate water pump? and what is SofS?

     

  7. I just knocked this up, it might help.
    Pls let me know if it's wrong or if you want any tyre/wheel sizes adding.

    I put 185/60/13 in because this thread made me check my tyres, and that's what I have for some reason.  No issues with clearance and they don't look particulary small, not so I'd noticed anyway. They just...just stay inside the arch, enough to be legal. (5mm ?)

    At 40 my speedo theoretically reads 41.9 so that should help with managing not to get flashed by speed cameras.
     

    WheelTyre.jpg

  8. 1 hour ago, Gully said:

    Just bear in mind that they will have a smaller rolling radius, so your speedo will read high. Not sure if the mintylamb website calculator is up and running again, but Google the site as there is a calculator on there that will tell you the difference that tyre size will make (it's not huge).

    Gully

    2piR before and after will give you a ratio to see what the speedo effect might be. Just remember that 70 or 75 is a percentage of the width not an actual tyre wall height. 

    • Like 1
  9. You've been a busy boy Nautam. I've been doing similar but with foil fronted rubber insulation. The heat and reflection off the foil in this weather has been absolutely brutal!!! :blink:  I'm not really a fan of putting anything on nice new metalwork but I'm sure they'll still have scrapers and thinners in 50ys time if it ever needs welding. 

    I like your velcro idea, I'm using camper van carpet for the fiddly bits and getting proper bound carpet for the footwells and behind the seats. That camper carpet is pretty stretchy so I'm thinking about doing the rear wheel arches with it. It's not very deluxe feeling but nice enough for round the edges with a bit of proper carpet underfoot. 

    Weather has been tough to watch sitting on the subs bench. Looks like we're both getting there though. Is this your last bit? My mechanicals are all done and the paint can wait until next winter. As soon as there's something to sit on it's chocks away! 

    20180519_175631.thumb.jpg.651d9e5accccf476ffa83e15cadfa546.jpg

  10. That pit has given me an idea about how to save on my funeral plans. A couple of meters of readymix shouldn't cost too much and 'it's what he'd have wanted' 

    Joking aside I looked into it once, you're allowed to so long as it gets noted on the deeds, but unfortunately that would bring the house value down by more than you'd save. 

    • Haha 1
  11. 14 hours ago, Anglefire said:

    Perhaps its just me (And I would really love a pit!) but I always have that nagging thing about the risk of fumes in the pit. 

    I think most of the nasty fumes rise rather than puddle so it shouldn't be an issue. If in doubt, or it's a hot day, stick an old desk fan down there; an extention socket or two fixed to the wall down there is useful. 

    • Like 1
  12. If you're struggle to find the right exhaust it's worth remembering that there are firms out there who'll fabricate whatever you want. I had a stainless sports exhaust made for my P38 about 20yrs ago (because nobody then sold one at a fair price) and I think it was only about the same price as a good quality std system. I got to choose how it looked at the back, the exhaust note etc. 

    If we want manufacturing in the UK then let's use these sort of people instead of just shipping in more Chinese tin because it's £20 cheaper. I can't find the company I used, maybe they've closed or moved. If people like us don't support British industry then who will? 

    • Thanks 1
  13. On 5/17/2018 at 1:14 PM, rlubikey said:

    100% agree with getting MOTs for our cars, even if it's not a requirement.

    I'm always slightly surprised, given that so many people here are children of the 60s and 70s, that more people aren't more pleased to get 'the man' out of their lives in a small way.

    I'm capable of knowing that my car is safe and I don't really need to pay 40 quid to watch a 20yr old to suck his teeth. Finally we aren't being nannied, if you'd like one get one and if you don't, don't. Hooray. 

    Probably not a common opinion but I'm a confirmed contrarian, or a "trust you to be bloody awkward" as my missus might say. :)

    "Freedom for Tooting"! 

  14. 6 hours ago, Anglefire said:

    Well, technically from the 20th, yours will be flagged as MOT exempt - only if you tell them its substantially modified when its next due for tax will the MOT exemption be lost.

    Depends what engine you've put in and when though as to whether its substantially modified or not.

    It's a 2.5 from a TR5. Probably done in the 90s but I've no real proof. 

    It's had loads of MOTs in this configuration so the ministry are clearly happy about the safety side. You'd think that if a mod had been MOTed before it wouldn't need to be done again. 

    The V5 shows the correct engine size (2.5) ditto insurance so as far as I'm concern they already know. 

    I'll have to read those threads again. 

  15. Where would you find out if your car needs an MOT? Mines old enough but had an engine swap years ago. I wanted to test drive it for a day or two to shake down the mechanicals before I do the niceties that get you through a test.  The V5 says 'Historic Vehicle'. 

    My insurance company already knows about the mod so I'm not trying to deceive anyone. 

     

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