rlubikey
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Posts posted by rlubikey
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Thanks for that information Garth. I take it the price in the catalogue is per pair? (TR & Stag are plural but Spit is singular)
Cheers, Richard
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+1 for Wanner. I bought a modern one - which leaked oil all over the place. Then I remembered my dad's old Wanner. The modern one is fine for grease.
Cheers, Richard
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I see the Club Shop sells "uprated" halfshafts.
Cheers, Richard
PS: "Uprated", without a specification to back it up, is a much abused term!
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Depending on whether you think there might be some other things to do, you might consider buying an old wiring loom. That way you have all the colours and you're replacing like with like.
Cheers, Richard
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Will all owners of Atlas Majors please step forward ...
Anyone???
Steve, if you get no takers, (I've got two copies already!!!) then you might consider suggesting your friend donates it to the Standard Motor Club.
Cheers, Richard
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I saw some on ebay but doubt they are genuine Lucas parts.
Just because it's in a Lucas box, it may not be what you & I would call Lucas. I'm afraid the name has been bought and parts made - quite legitimately - in the Far East with seemingly *no* attempt at quality control. My switch seems to have survived several years (forget where I bought it) but that may be because I have an overdrive control box, so the switch isn't carrying all the current.
John's right about the gearknob caps. Mine split in no time (12 months?). Replaced it with an old one - reverse is in the wrong place, which I see as a security feature. I tape a big notice to the dash come MOT time!
Cheers, Richard
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Hi Allen & welcome back! Yes, John Thomason looked at this about 20 years ago and he found that the so-called "log" manifold off the compact 1300 & 1500 saloons gave a little more torque for only a small loss of top-end power. Other benefits are fuel economy and ease of setting up - no balancing multiple carbs. Triumph it seems introduced this to give better fuel economy during the '71 fuel crisis and really did a great job of getting equal flow distribution between all 4 cylinders - something that single carb manifolds, especially "log" types, are not renown for. He preferred this type over the "cumberland sausage" manifold used on Heralds. Internally, it has clever little bumps to disrupt the flow so it goes equally down either port - 1 or 2 and 3 or 4. I'm putting one of these on my stroked 1500 engine for the Atlas and it should be fine for your 1300 engine too. You may need to do a bit of research to find the best needle for the carb.
Cheers, Richard
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Clive
As a related aside, many high performance cars eg m3, Scoobies etc use a 10 60 Motorsport oil, so even new cars need the thicker high temp oil when driven hard.
Previously, I had believed that these "Motorsport" labelled oils also had the required high ZDDP, as they were only intended for trackday and modified cars where reducing wear in a highly stressed engine was important. But if you're saying these models use this as standard then that can't be the case as the Cat. will get fouled over 10s of 1000s of miles. I say this because I've been using Mobil-1 Motorsport 15W-50 for some years now which, if I've understood the data, has the necessary levels of zinc.
Cheers, Richard
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Stove enamelling is best. Unfortunately, the place I took mine (MWS, Slough) have stopped doing that & powder coat instead. I already have 1 or 2 little chips.
Club shop does Triumph wheel silver. Not much use if you go the stove enamel route!
Cheers, Richard
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Kai, I'm guessing that you don't think adjusting the door hinges would solve the problem, just make it stick in/out somewhere else! I think you can make small adjustments to the quarterlight frame but hopefully a GT6 owner will confirm/deny this. So if it's just the sill line that's sticking out then I would think it's either the dreaded rust that's set in along the bottom of the door and is forcing the metal out. Or, the door has been re-skinned at some time, as I've read that it's quite difficult to fold the door skin around that bottom edge and keep the right line. How far does it protrude?
Cheers, Richard
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Just going back to single-point injection, presumably it's timed to coincide with cylinders filling as opposed to free-running squirts, so to speak, is that right? So obviously it needs a timing disc on the crank, but it *doesn't* need a sensor on the dizzy, is that so? So my question is, do DIY systems like Megasquirt run happily doing timed single-point injection without a dizzy sensor?
Cheers, Richard
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Picton Sportscars are quite near you - just off M25 jnc. 25. He did a bare-metal resto on my Spit and is currently restoring my Atlas.
Cheers, Richard
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Thanks for your comments guys.
Paul, yes, it seems the outer seal has given way first. At least the grease catcher did its job.
Pete, I didn't mention that, sitting on top of the pile of grease on the hub with the hole was a tiny "pin" of stiffer grease. Presumably this is what was sitting in the hole and was ejected first. I found mention of the hole on http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?35140-Spitfire-rear-suspension-question though some said they had them and some not. I assumed at the time the "have nots" were either unobservant or theirs were blocked with age-old grease. Seems that was a wrong assumption. I was going to take the wheel off and get a picture this evening but ran out of time.
Ben, the Atlas has had all the bodywork done now and is (still) in primer. Yes, it's going to be Russet Brown and (Rover Metro) Primula Yellow - a very good facsimile of GWR Chocolate & Cream.
Cheers, Richard
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I've just greased my rear hubs on the Spit and discovered that one has a little (~1mm) hole on the top where the excess grease exits. You wipe off the excess and what's left sits in the hole until next time you grease. The other hub doesn't have this hole so the grease exits through the weakest seal. Just my luck it was the outer one next to the brakes, so I'm going to have to change the seal - which has probably been assembled the wrong way round.
So here's the question - this hole; was it something Triumph did on only a few hubs? One period of production maybe? Or is the hub "sans hole" a repro. part? What do you guys think?
I'm guessing that the hole defines the route for the grease through the hub, i.e. from nipple, through bearing, out of hole. So I'm thinking of drilling one when I rebuild the hub. Madness or ... ?
Cheers, Richard
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The workshop manual calls it NP Thread. I think you'll find that's National Pipe Thread - which is the American standard for their plumbing. (We, and much of the rest of the world use British Standard Pipe)
Cheers, Richard
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Hi Bob, yes it's on the ally B post cap. But not on top, it's on the outward-facing part, so the edge of the hood is almost vertical and sheds water. A washer on the inner face would seem sensible to reinforce the aluminium when pulling the popper off.
Cheers, Richard
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Yes, it's L-brackets dropping down from the two holes in the front bumper. Positions the plate just exactly in front of where air should flow in to the radiator!
Cheers, Richard
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As a final check, remove the drive cable from the back of the speedo and check the inner isn't turning when the engine's running. Be careful, just in case it is (though I can't see how!) as if it snags something it could do some damage.
Cheers, Richard
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remember linux support for the one i had stopped , and my laptop guru said why not try win10 ...
:o Pete, time to change your guru???Cheers, Richard
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Foot in mouth is my speciality ...
Well Doug, it's better than a Toad in the Hole!
(With apologies to Willie Rushton)
Cheers, Richard
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The common point is the hazard switch. Try jer... jer... jiggling it, including rotating the knob, to get the indicators working again. My hazards only get used once a year at MOT time so the switch isn't used to being used and needs the exercise!
Richard
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Good suggestion from Doug. A possible alternative is Finchampstead MOT - the owner there is a classic car & bike enthusiast (the Brooklands mural on the workshop wall is a clue!) He's had a Spit and a Standard 12 in there recently but I should think 95% of his business is modern stuff. Another classic-friendly garage is Citroemech here in Wokingham, who have had an E-Type, XK120 & Mustang recently. But again, probably 95% modern stuff. With all these places round here, Beech Hill and my suggestions, it's the cost of workshop time that you need to be careful of. A classic-friendly place even a little further west could be significantly cheaper.
Richard
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From the Harrington Website:About our Bumpers
Our bumpers have big advantages:
- Painted back - The back of the bumpers are acid etch primed and painted with ICI two pack paint in black.
OK, I give up! Why are the backs painted black???
Cheers, Richard
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I've used them since the late 80's and always found them to be fine. They don't seem too hot on grading the stuff they strip off cars and storage is just a barn/shed, so going in person to select what you want is probably the best policy. Being local, that's what I've always done.
Richard
:o 
185 tyre profile to body
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted
Dave, on a Vitesse, I don't know. On the Spit we had to roll the front arches to stop any rubbing but they don't stick out. These are on the oval hole 5.5J wheels. My tyres are the rocking-horse droppings 185/65R13, as used briefly on, I think, an Opel Corsa or something and they fill the Spit wheel arches nicely - virtually the same diameter as 155R13 and 175/70R13. Previously I had 185/60R13 and be aware that these are definitely a bit small in the arches - same width though. I had to import the 185/65R13 from Europe as they are unobtainable in the UK - unless you know different.
As Rich says, more steering effort!
Cheers, Richard