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rlubikey last won the day on January 8 2020

rlubikey had the most liked content!

About rlubikey

  • Rank
    Blackbelt Triumphero

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  • Location
    Reading, Berks.
  • Cars Owned
    Current:- Spit 2.5PI, Standard Atlas, Volvo V70. Previous Form:- Dolly 1850 (first car), Spit 1500, Volvo 145 (the green one on The Car's The Star S6E4) & other modern Volvos.


  • Cars Owned
    Current:- Spit 2.5PI, Standard Atlas, Volvo V70 Previous Form:- Dolly 1850 (first car), Spit 1500, Volvo 145 (the green one on The Car's The Star S6E4) & other modern Volvos.

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  1. Here you go, the Triumph 2600 MkIII Saloon Prototype from Canley Classics web site museum section. It says "These cars have unique bonnets, nose cones to fit the longer deeper 2600 engine." You can see the power bulge a bit like on the MkI saloon has been added, and somehow the nose looks different, but difficult to judge from this angle on the small photo. Perhaps a trip is in order next time Canleys open their museum for the day. Dave??? Cheers, Richard
  2. You're right of course Clive. How long is it compared to the 2500? Would an "engine back" work?
  3. I believe the Rover 2600 is one of those "what if" engines. As already said, it was developed from the Triumph 2500 for the Rover/Triumph big saloons. Being overhead cam it is taller than the older engine. Someone (Canleys?) had a picture of a Triumph 2000 test vehicle for the 2600 engine, which had a large rectangular raised section in the bonnet. The cross-flow design used the single cam layout of the Dolly Sprint and apparently the performance was so good that they had to de-tune it so it didn't embarrass the Rover V8 engines used in the top range models. I can't seem to lay my hands on any
  4. Were you ever one of the "Backroom Boys" for Blue Peter Roger? Cheers, Richard
  5. They're on a common dimmer and it doesn't work with at least one conventional bulb. Sounds like maybe the LEDs are dodgy. Sold as dimmable, but does it actually say that on the packet? Even so, I would remove the dimmer and try direct on the mains, then you know to either get an LED compatible dimmer ... or new (different) LEDs. Richard
  6. Colin, from memory, conventional dimmers switch the leading edge of the mains waveform. LED compatible dimmers switch the trailing edge. Also, the LED has to be dimmer compatible and I can't see anything on that packet that says your bulb is. Is the dimmer an in-line jobbie in the mains lead? Is there more than one bulb in each decanter? If so, try one conventional bulb and one LED. My guess is that the dimmer can't "see" a bulb - it doesn't recognise the LED as a light bulb. If there's only one bulb then take the dimmer out of circuit to check it does actually work, then go and buy an LED com
  7. The question is Nigel, which glycol? There's ethylene glycol, and there's propylene glycol. Ethylene glycol is nasty stuff but it's cheap. However, the corrosion inhibitors break down quickly - 2 or 3 years. Whereas the inhibitors in Propylene glycol are more stable and last 20 or 25 years. also, Propylene glycol is nowhere near as poisonous. I can't find an MSDS but it sounds to me as though 4life is based on Propylene glycol and I suspect that's how they get their "enhanced" performance. If so then it's just a "pre-mixed" Propylene Glycol anti-freeze. I run my Spit with domestic central
  8. Yes, the UK Spit passenger side had the warning light BW at least as early as 1977. Cheers, Richard
  9. No James, they didn't look anything like that on my old late (X-reg) Spit, which were just the same as my current ('77) model. Cheers, Richard
  10. "Wireless" - how quaint! Martin, the problem with Spit/GT6 door speakers is they will foul the window when it's wound down if they are too deep. I can tell you from personal experience how dispiriting it is to hear that THUNK as the window hits first time you wind it down. It won't wind any further, and then you put two and two together. I think the only place any speaker will fit - unless you want to chop a hole in the door inner skin - is the bottom rear corner. Take the door panel off and, with a straight edge across the inner skin, measure the distance to the wound down window. I
  11. Silicone brake fluid is based on silicone oil. Silicone oil - I was surprised to find - is NOT compatible with silicon rubber! So it's POSSIBLE that they've used silicone rubber seals. However, I agree it's much more likely that they simply haven't tested DOT-5 silicone brake fluid and they won't warrant something they haven't tested. When you work in electrochemistry you start to get a bit nerdy about chemical compatibility! Cheers, Richard
  12. Alan, I believe it's only function is as a switch for a puny little light on the dash - someone please correct me if I'm wrong. Here are some photos which may help - blue things are off the dual MC donor car. I had forgotten that the strengthening web is also different (lower) on the dual MC cars. The siamesed brake strengthening web and clutch bracket is to accommodate the 6-cylinder PI plenum. Sorry about the flash rust - that shower really caught us on the hop! Cheers, Richard
  13. Agree with that! Having had this happen to me on my (dual circuit) Spit, I would also choose a dual circuit over single any time. You only find out when you're actually braking that there's a problem and if it happens, having the presence of mind to go for the handbrake is one of those things that takes a second or two to percolate through the old grey cells. The brake pedal goes further down (because you have no pressure in half the MC) but you still have some retardation. If you're driving like the road is your personal race track then that won't be enough. If you're being a bit more leisure
  14. Oh ... I don't remembering it touching there. Have you got the chrome caps on the B-post? Maybe it does touch there if 41 is missing. The blocks, from memory, are about 1/2" thick, so if you can find a spacer to simulate, you could see what difference it makes.
  15. Parts 41 and 42 here. It's 41 which are the hard blocks.
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