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rlubikey last won the day on January 8 2020

rlubikey had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Reading, Berks.
  • Cars Owned
    Current:- Spit 2.5PI, Standard Atlas, Volvo V70. Previous Form:- Dolly 1850 (first car), Spit 1500, Volvo 145 (the green one on The Car's The Star S6E4) & other modern Volvos.


  • Cars Owned
    Current:- Spit 2.5PI, Standard Atlas, Volvo V70 Previous Form:- Dolly 1850 (first car), Spit 1500, Volvo 145 (the green one on The Car's The Star S6E4) & other modern Volvos.

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  1. Not completely hollow it out, or that would connect the dual circuits and negate the safety of the system! ** I would leave everything in place but, if the PDWA gave problems, add the special cap to the master cylinder. Then you disconnect the wire somewhere it won't be noticed (or maybe you declare it to the Prototype Inspector and hope he understands) and connect the dash light wire to the cap switch instead. Cheers, Richard ** I had the dual circuit braking grafted on to my '77 Spit when it was converted to six cylinders. Unseen by me or the MOT chap a brake pipe was rubbing against the armoured PI fuel hose. Some years later the brake pipe burst while braking for a roundabout. This is how I know that the PWDA is useless when you get a catastrophic failure. You don't spend any time at all looking at the dash wondering why the light has come on. You immediately feel the brake pedal is different and so is the car's ability to loose speed. Anyway, I was jolly glad of the dual circuit system that day. Not sure I could have stopped on the handbrake in time.
  2. DVD3500, it's a master cylinder cap with a float switch built in. The fluid level drops and the switch is activated. If it's a slow leak it gives you advanced warning. I see Car Builder Solutions have a switch you fit in your existing cap (drill a hole). Or there are period metal caps with switches such as fitted to Rovers. Cheers, Richard
  3. Alan, you will feel the pressure differential with your foot (brake pedal sinks further), along with the Spit not loosing speed as quickly as expected! A Posteriori. Far better to put a low fluid switch cap on the master cylinder and wire that to the dash warning light. Cheers, Richard
  4. The solder used for electronics work (and I think plumbing is the same stuff?) is probably too soft for anything structural like this. I would think silver solder is what's needed here. I don't know the answer to the annealing question, but I imagine someone will be along shortly who does. Cheers, Richard
  5. rlubikey


    The energy density of lithium batteries is about 300W-hrs/litre, give or take. Compare this to the energy density of petrol - 13kW-hrs/litre (13,000W-hrs/litre). While there will be incremental improvements in battery technology, so far as I know there are no game changers on the horizon. That's not to say there might not be one over the horizon, but until then the improvements will be relatively small. 13kW-hrs/l sounds good, but the infernal combustion engine is only 30% efficient, or thereabouts. Put a human behind the wheel and it's only 20%, but hybrid cleverness gets some of that back. Even so, 2.6kWhrs to 3.9kW-hrs at the wheel still makes 300W-hrs from a battery seem a bit ... meagre. And the big advantage of petrol is that you can transfer all those kW-hrs into your tank in a couple of minutes and drive 600 to 800 miles. But don't forget to pay first! Hydrogen has the same advantages of energy density and fluid transfer to the vehicle, which make it ideal for for transport applications. If you want fast charging from a battery that means you have to be able to deliver the energy quickly. Either, you have to lay in the copper connection to the grid - and laying in copper is eye-wateringly expensive - or you have to have some form of energy storage on site - a battery in fact! On a motorway service station the battery might make sense as it will be in use most of the time. But elsewhere it's not a good financial proposition as a battery which isn't in use is not earning money for the people who bought it. None of this matters at home as charging overnight can be done at a leisurely pace. In Reading they've been building houses which have no drives, garages or parking places. The parking place was an optional extra and if you didn't buy one then that pretty much rules out a battery EV I would say. As for Apple showing what can be done with batteries? Sealing them in to give the product an 18-month life span - that doesn't sound like a planet-saving strategy to me! What was the comment of putting PV panels in the desert? Are we going to get the energy here by copper (expensive) or hydrogen (efficiency) by ship/pipeline? Cheers, Richard
  6. rlubikey


    Then you have to compress it, so it's more like 33% efficiency. While this sounds terrible compared to batteries, you end up with a light, dense energy storage medium which can be transferred into your car in a couple of minutes. Given the renewable nature of our grid generation in the future, we will need a much higher generating capacity than at present so that we have enough on dull, windless weeks (static high pressure weather system in winter) to power our homes and industry. What do we do with the extra when the sun and wind are available? Turn water in to hydrogen of course. It can be done locally without a surge in power, Not like when you want to fast-charge the batteries in your EV without taking you over your daily coffee capacity. The trouble is, this requires a major installation of infrastructure to give us the hydrogen filling stations. (Are there still only SIX here in the UK?) Whereas the electricity network is already here, albeit at limited capacity. Sadly, I think we are going to sleepwalk into a battery EV future because no one has a vested interest in the country doing the right thing and installing the necessary hydrogen infrastructure. Moan over. Cheers, Richard
  7. Alex, I had a friend machine mine. And apparently PTFE isn't the best material for this application, but oil-impregnated nylon. I'm afraid I've forgotten the trade name of the material, sorry. Cheers, Richard
  8. Yes, I was a trimming novice. Take it slowly, do one seat at a time so you have one to copy, and take the weight off the cable ties by compressing the foam so you can tighten the ties little by little, working round so as to keep the stress evenly distributed. I ended up making new holes down one side to stretch the material more so as to copy the originals, as the measurements in my instructions were the same down each side of the base - I don't think that's correct. Yes, I did that to copy what my original seat foams had. Triumph must have put the hessian there for a reason. Did you have an "Elvis" look before Doug? Cheers, Richard
  9. Andrew, if you change the amount of gas coming out of the engine, it changes the amount sucked in. That means you have to modify the fuelling to accommodate this. I can confirm this is true. I took to using ear plugs on longer runs to keep my sanity until I managed to change to a standard system. Some poor fool (sorry) enthusiastic driver wanted to swap for a sports exhaust. He's probably not on such good terms with his neighbours now. Cheers, Richard
  10. Yes, I use Audacity for transcribing vinyl to CD - especially old records not released since. You can clean up the sound - although de-clicking I find best done manipulating the waveform "by hand"- and split into tracks ready for burning. If you enjoy this sort of thing (I do) it becomes quite engrossing. Perhaps I should have been a studio engineer! But as to CD-to-tape, I think you are stuck with real time. Cheers, Richard
  11. Chris, I think you'll find NPTF simply means NPT-Female. NPT is of course National Pipe Thread, an American standard which is a taper thread. There is only one NPT thread - no variations, unlike UNified-Coarse & -Fine threads. Cheers, Richard
  12. Here you go, the Triumph 2600 MkIII Saloon Prototype from Canley Classics web site museum section. It says "These cars have unique bonnets, nose cones to fit the longer deeper 2600 engine." You can see the power bulge a bit like on the MkI saloon has been added, and somehow the nose looks different, but difficult to judge from this angle on the small photo. Perhaps a trip is in order next time Canleys open their museum for the day. Dave??? Cheers, Richard
  13. You're right of course Clive. How long is it compared to the 2500? Would an "engine back" work?
  14. I believe the Rover 2600 is one of those "what if" engines. As already said, it was developed from the Triumph 2500 for the Rover/Triumph big saloons. Being overhead cam it is taller than the older engine. Someone (Canleys?) had a picture of a Triumph 2000 test vehicle for the 2600 engine, which had a large rectangular raised section in the bonnet. The cross-flow design used the single cam layout of the Dolly Sprint and apparently the performance was so good that they had to de-tune it so it didn't embarrass the Rover V8 engines used in the top range models. I can't seem to lay my hands on any tuning catalogues from the period, but I haven't spotted anyone offering hotter cams to restore the power this engine should have given. I suppose the problem is that this was a one-car-engine. Just imagine what it could have been with a decent cam, then add 4-valves per cylinder - a Rover 2600 Sprint! Give it a go and let us know how you get on. Cheers, Richard PS: Leave the 2300 well alone - it was gutless, presumably to go in a cheaper stripped down model.
  15. Were you ever one of the "Backroom Boys" for Blue Peter Roger? Cheers, Richard
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