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rlubikey

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Everything posted by rlubikey

  1. I wish! I feel more like one of these - a broken slinky ...
  2. Pete, I've fitted EPS to my Spit 2.5PI. Having the Spit "quick" steering rack, the extra two cylinders makes the steering really heavy for a weed like me. I fitted the Corsa-C EPS - see this thread for more. I would say that if you find your steering heavy then it's worth considering. I think you may possibly add a hint of "vagueness" to the feel but it will deffo. make the steering lighter. Different people will have different opinions but it's down to you as to whether it's worth £900. Please note that, sadly, Picton Sportscars who did the heavy engineering on my EPS had to close their doors for the last time about 18 months ago. Cheers, Richard
  3. Yes, that's my recollection too. <Goes to check hardtop> Yes, the front of the bottom "frame" folds over the top "skin" and is spot welded. Cheers, Richard
  4. Not completely hollow it out, or that would connect the dual circuits and negate the safety of the system! ** I would leave everything in place but, if the PDWA gave problems, add the special cap to the master cylinder. Then you disconnect the wire somewhere it won't be noticed (or maybe you declare it to the Prototype Inspector and hope he understands) and connect the dash light wire to the cap switch instead. Cheers, Richard ** I had the dual circuit braking grafted on to my '77 Spit when it was converted to six cylinders. Unseen by me or the MOT chap a brake pipe was rubbing against the armoured PI fuel hose. Some years later the brake pipe burst while braking for a roundabout. This is how I know that the PWDA is useless when you get a catastrophic failure. You don't spend any time at all looking at the dash wondering why the light has come on. You immediately feel the brake pedal is different and so is the car's ability to loose speed. Anyway, I was jolly glad of the dual circuit system that day. Not sure I could have stopped on the handbrake in time.
  5. DVD3500, it's a master cylinder cap with a float switch built in. The fluid level drops and the switch is activated. If it's a slow leak it gives you advanced warning. I see Car Builder Solutions have a switch you fit in your existing cap (drill a hole). Or there are period metal caps with switches such as fitted to Rovers. Cheers, Richard
  6. Alan, you will feel the pressure differential with your foot (brake pedal sinks further), along with the Spit not loosing speed as quickly as expected! A Posteriori. Far better to put a low fluid switch cap on the master cylinder and wire that to the dash warning light. Cheers, Richard
  7. The solder used for electronics work (and I think plumbing is the same stuff?) is probably too soft for anything structural like this. I would think silver solder is what's needed here. I don't know the answer to the annealing question, but I imagine someone will be along shortly who does. Cheers, Richard
  8. rlubikey

    Hydrogen

    The energy density of lithium batteries is about 300W-hrs/litre, give or take. Compare this to the energy density of petrol - 13kW-hrs/litre (13,000W-hrs/litre). While there will be incremental improvements in battery technology, so far as I know there are no game changers on the horizon. That's not to say there might not be one over the horizon, but until then the improvements will be relatively small. 13kW-hrs/l sounds good, but the infernal combustion engine is only 30% efficient, or thereabouts. Put a human behind the wheel and it's only 20%, but hybrid cleverness gets some of that back. Even so, 2.6kWhrs to 3.9kW-hrs at the wheel still makes 300W-hrs from a battery seem a bit ... meagre. And the big advantage of petrol is that you can transfer all those kW-hrs into your tank in a couple of minutes and drive 600 to 800 miles. But don't forget to pay first! Hydrogen has the same advantages of energy density and fluid transfer to the vehicle, which make it ideal for for transport applications. If you want fast charging from a battery that means you have to be able to deliver the energy quickly. Either, you have to lay in the copper connection to the grid - and laying in copper is eye-wateringly expensive - or you have to have some form of energy storage on site - a battery in fact! On a motorway service station the battery might make sense as it will be in use most of the time. But elsewhere it's not a good financial proposition as a battery which isn't in use is not earning money for the people who bought it. None of this matters at home as charging overnight can be done at a leisurely pace. In Reading they've been building houses which have no drives, garages or parking places. The parking place was an optional extra and if you didn't buy one then that pretty much rules out a battery EV I would say. As for Apple showing what can be done with batteries? Sealing them in to give the product an 18-month life span - that doesn't sound like a planet-saving strategy to me! What was the comment of putting PV panels in the desert? Are we going to get the energy here by copper (expensive) or hydrogen (efficiency) by ship/pipeline? Cheers, Richard
  9. rlubikey

    Hydrogen

    Then you have to compress it, so it's more like 33% efficiency. While this sounds terrible compared to batteries, you end up with a light, dense energy storage medium which can be transferred into your car in a couple of minutes. Given the renewable nature of our grid generation in the future, we will need a much higher generating capacity than at present so that we have enough on dull, windless weeks (static high pressure weather system in winter) to power our homes and industry. What do we do with the extra when the sun and wind are available? Turn water in to hydrogen of course. It can be done locally without a surge in power, Not like when you want to fast-charge the batteries in your EV without taking you over your daily coffee capacity. The trouble is, this requires a major installation of infrastructure to give us the hydrogen filling stations. (Are there still only SIX here in the UK?) Whereas the electricity network is already here, albeit at limited capacity. Sadly, I think we are going to sleepwalk into a battery EV future because no one has a vested interest in the country doing the right thing and installing the necessary hydrogen infrastructure. Moan over. Cheers, Richard
  10. Alex, I had a friend machine mine. And apparently PTFE isn't the best material for this application, but oil-impregnated nylon. I'm afraid I've forgotten the trade name of the material, sorry. Cheers, Richard
  11. Yes, I was a trimming novice. Take it slowly, do one seat at a time so you have one to copy, and take the weight off the cable ties by compressing the foam so you can tighten the ties little by little, working round so as to keep the stress evenly distributed. I ended up making new holes down one side to stretch the material more so as to copy the originals, as the measurements in my instructions were the same down each side of the base - I don't think that's correct. Yes, I did that to copy what my original seat foams had. Triumph must have put the hessian there for a reason. Did you have an "Elvis" look before Doug? Cheers, Richard
  12. Andrew, if you change the amount of gas coming out of the engine, it changes the amount sucked in. That means you have to modify the fuelling to accommodate this. I can confirm this is true. I took to using ear plugs on longer runs to keep my sanity until I managed to change to a standard system. Some poor fool (sorry) enthusiastic driver wanted to swap for a sports exhaust. He's probably not on such good terms with his neighbours now. Cheers, Richard
  13. Yes, I use Audacity for transcribing vinyl to CD - especially old records not released since. You can clean up the sound - although de-clicking I find best done manipulating the waveform "by hand"- and split into tracks ready for burning. If you enjoy this sort of thing (I do) it becomes quite engrossing. Perhaps I should have been a studio engineer! But as to CD-to-tape, I think you are stuck with real time. Cheers, Richard
  14. Chris, I think you'll find NPTF simply means NPT-Female. NPT is of course National Pipe Thread, an American standard which is a taper thread. There is only one NPT thread - no variations, unlike UNified-Coarse & -Fine threads. Cheers, Richard
  15. Here you go, the Triumph 2600 MkIII Saloon Prototype from Canley Classics web site museum section. It says "These cars have unique bonnets, nose cones to fit the longer deeper 2600 engine." You can see the power bulge a bit like on the MkI saloon has been added, and somehow the nose looks different, but difficult to judge from this angle on the small photo. Perhaps a trip is in order next time Canleys open their museum for the day. Dave??? Cheers, Richard
  16. You're right of course Clive. How long is it compared to the 2500? Would an "engine back" work?
  17. I believe the Rover 2600 is one of those "what if" engines. As already said, it was developed from the Triumph 2500 for the Rover/Triumph big saloons. Being overhead cam it is taller than the older engine. Someone (Canleys?) had a picture of a Triumph 2000 test vehicle for the 2600 engine, which had a large rectangular raised section in the bonnet. The cross-flow design used the single cam layout of the Dolly Sprint and apparently the performance was so good that they had to de-tune it so it didn't embarrass the Rover V8 engines used in the top range models. I can't seem to lay my hands on any tuning catalogues from the period, but I haven't spotted anyone offering hotter cams to restore the power this engine should have given. I suppose the problem is that this was a one-car-engine. Just imagine what it could have been with a decent cam, then add 4-valves per cylinder - a Rover 2600 Sprint! Give it a go and let us know how you get on. Cheers, Richard PS: Leave the 2300 well alone - it was gutless, presumably to go in a cheaper stripped down model.
  18. Were you ever one of the "Backroom Boys" for Blue Peter Roger? Cheers, Richard
  19. They're on a common dimmer and it doesn't work with at least one conventional bulb. Sounds like maybe the LEDs are dodgy. Sold as dimmable, but does it actually say that on the packet? Even so, I would remove the dimmer and try direct on the mains, then you know to either get an LED compatible dimmer ... or new (different) LEDs. Richard
  20. Colin, from memory, conventional dimmers switch the leading edge of the mains waveform. LED compatible dimmers switch the trailing edge. Also, the LED has to be dimmer compatible and I can't see anything on that packet that says your bulb is. Is the dimmer an in-line jobbie in the mains lead? Is there more than one bulb in each decanter? If so, try one conventional bulb and one LED. My guess is that the dimmer can't "see" a bulb - it doesn't recognise the LED as a light bulb. If there's only one bulb then take the dimmer out of circuit to check it does actually work, then go and buy an LED compatible dimmer. Cheers, Richard
  21. The question is Nigel, which glycol? There's ethylene glycol, and there's propylene glycol. Ethylene glycol is nasty stuff but it's cheap. However, the corrosion inhibitors break down quickly - 2 or 3 years. Whereas the inhibitors in Propylene glycol are more stable and last 20 or 25 years. also, Propylene glycol is nowhere near as poisonous. I can't find an MSDS but it sounds to me as though 4life is based on Propylene glycol and I suspect that's how they get their "enhanced" performance. If so then it's just a "pre-mixed" Propylene Glycol anti-freeze. I run my Spit with domestic central heating heating antifreeze which is Propylene Glycol with 20 years life, compatible with all cooling system materials, and not too poisonous so no disposal issues. The long life means it works out way cheaper in the long run. Cheers, Richard
  22. Yes, the UK Spit passenger side had the warning light BW at least as early as 1977. Cheers, Richard
  23. No James, they didn't look anything like that on my old late (X-reg) Spit, which were just the same as my current ('77) model. Cheers, Richard
  24. "Wireless" - how quaint! Martin, the problem with Spit/GT6 door speakers is they will foul the window when it's wound down if they are too deep. I can tell you from personal experience how dispiriting it is to hear that THUNK as the window hits first time you wind it down. It won't wind any further, and then you put two and two together. I think the only place any speaker will fit - unless you want to chop a hole in the door inner skin - is the bottom rear corner. Take the door panel off and, with a straight edge across the inner skin, measure the distance to the wound down window. It's not much - only just over an inch I think. 30mm, something like that? You could add the thickness of the door trim panel, but remember to keep something for clearance. I did this recently and the ones I fitted say "Radiomobile" but there's no model number and I can't find the box, sorry! They're about 125mm diameter. However, I simply trotted down to my local friendly independent motor factors and they opened the glass case and I measured what they had. You won't get anything special in such a slim speaker, but with the top down and the wind rushing past, who cares! Hope this is some help. Cheers, Richard
  25. Not being a guitar god like Doug, my fingers also get cracked skin & I've tried all the usual suspects of skin cream - Neutrogena, E45, Norwegian Formula, and remember there was a fad of udder cream a few years ago which everyone said was the bee's ... It wasn't. Atrixo make the one I use. Not the "M'ladies boudoir" one in the light green tub, but the ordinary "intensive protection" stuff in the mid-green tub. The trick is, after rubbing it into your finger tips, briefly run cold water over them - just a few seconds - and dry with a towel. This takes away the slippy greasiness but leaves your skin protected with what seems like a slight waxy layer. I imagine this is what keeps the natural oils & moisture in and also stops the roughness from snagging on things like fabrics. Cheers, Richard
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