rlubikey
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Posts posted by rlubikey
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Oh ... I don't remembering it touching there. Have you got the chrome caps on the B-post? Maybe it does touch there if 41 is missing. The blocks, from memory, are about 1/2" thick, so if you can find a spacer to simulate, you could see what difference it makes.
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Parts 41 and 42 here. It's 41 which are the hard blocks.
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There are 4 rubber blocks on the rear underside of the hard top. 2 are a foam consistency, the other 2 are hard rubber. I think these 2 have slots in and go around the fixing rear bolts. It's these hard rubber blocks that stop the hard top touching the deck. When I had my hard top re-trimmed (1980's), the trimmer forgot to fit them and I tightened and tightened. I stopped and walked around the back just in time to see the top touching in the corners. Removed and I was lucky - the merest "kiss" on the paintwork which only I could spot.
Cheers, Richard
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On 03/01/2021 at 11:45, SpitFire6 said:
BSPP female for a BSPT thread?
That does not sound right.
Doesn't sound like it's as designed, but from my experience in fluid systems, it does work. I would suggest using PTFE thread tape which will help it seal, lower friction as your thread it in place, and enable you to remove the valve when it fails (if its a new one) and fit the 4-Seasons jobbie. Without thread tape or something similar it will seize given time. A posteriori - which is something similar to what I shouted when it happened to me!
Cheers, Richard
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Have you seen the front oil seal conversion they do? I've never heard of that for the SC gearbox before!
Happy Christmas, Richard
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This is 30 years ago. I think that after painting the holes were so tiny as to be not noticeable.
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If 57 is what I think then it's just a chrome trim that runs along the back below the window rubber. I left it off mine!
I agree with Colin, s/h places like Chic Doig and others may be your savour.
Cheers, Richard
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Chris, I see Moss have the parts diagram and list. Is this what you're looking for?
I think parts 36, 38, 39 and 43 are needed or you'll get draughts. Part 37 is just a furflex finisher.
Parts 18 and 41 are VITALLY important. If they're not present then you may tighten your hard top down and dent the front roof (2x part 18) and rear deck (2x part 41).
Cheers, Richard
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Yes, originals are anodised aluminium, easily distorted and can look tired after 45 years. Stainless stay shiny but all the ones I've seen have a different pattern.
Cheers, Richard
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22 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
i would guess it was only boiled for tea breaks
For me (a supertaster), if water has too much filtered out of it it makes tea taste wrong. We had a DI (de-ionised) water tap at old work and one colleague would make tea from it. He thought it tasted fine but it was no good for me. Even at home, when we change the jug filter I have to add a splash of tap water to the kettle for the first week to keep tea tasting right.
Cheers, Richard
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The reason your kettle furs up is that you keep giving it fresh water. Each time the new water has new hardness which builds up as layers of limescale inside your kettle. The water in your cooling system gets filled once. Then, once it's got hot, anything that's going to come out has come out and your cooling system doesn't get any worse. Well, not unless you've got a leak and keep topping it up. If you get a brand new kettle and fill it once with Thames water (hardest in the country I believe) and boil it, does the kettle look horribly furred up? No!
Cheers, Richard
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8 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
It looks to be exactly the same casing and bellhousing as fitted to Standards of the period - see the Standard 8 box below; only the top remote system and rear extension are different on the outside.
It is the same Colin. Only the tail extension was changed for the rear mount we all know on our cars. (Overdrive on a Standard 8, 10 or Atlas was possible but it was located to the rear of the mounting eye with a special tail piece.)
The only other thing is that if you want to mount the "tower" top cover (for a pudding bowl gear lever) then you need to machine a rebate along ... I've forgotten. It's either the bellhousing or OD adaptor or something at the front (or is it rear?) of the GB casing. But it's highly unlikely anyone here would want a pudding basin gear lever!
Cheers, Richard
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Someone does - or did - an alloy SC gearbox case, probably Canleys. I imagine the weakness in the Standard-Triumph unit is the bellhousing, which is integral to the unit.
Having looked into this as I had a new 4-syncro+OD GB made up for the Atlas - the original being alloy like yours - I know that the SC boxes from the Standard 8 & 10 era had a layshaft with a sleeve bearing and a scroll on the shaft to circulate oil. When did they change that to a pukka bearing?
Cheers, Richard
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I'm intrigued to read that Evans Waterless is based on propylene glycol. I use propylene glycol as an antifreeze additive to water in the Spit cooling system. The absence of water in the Evans means it will move less heat and bits of your engine will get hotter, as water has the greatest heat capacity (I think) of just about anything. Anything you put in to water will lower the heat capacity - hence the ability to move heat from A to B. If you don't rag your engine this may not matter, but if you give it the beans you may loose horsepower or worse.
As it happens - and I only learnt this after changing over from ethylene glycol - propylene glycol has a lower heat capacity than ethylene glycol, so will shift less heat for the same % antifreeze used.
Why do our cars use ethylene glycol? It's historic and stems from the days when you would drain some water and add antifreeze for the winter, then fill with fresh water for the summer. Presumably because you want better cooling in summer and frost protection in winter. Ethylene glycol is cheaper than propylene glycol so that was the antifreeze of choice. However, ethylene glycol is nasty stuff and attacks the nervous system and kills you. It's BANNED from domestic heating systems in case children or pets taste the water from weeping pipes & radiators. (I have seen an ethylene glycol product which contains an antidote but it's very expensive.)
You used to be able to buy propylene glycol antifreeze for cars but these seem to have disappeared in recent times. However, you CAN buy domestic heating antifreeze and this is what I've used in my 6-pot Spit and will also go in the Atlas when I (eventually) get it on the road. There is anecdotal evidence that Rolls Royce specified the brand of propylene glycol in their cars. Another advantage of using domestic heating antifreeze is that the anti corrosion agents last 20- to 25-years, not 2 or 3. Nobody wants to be changing their central heating water every other year!
Cheers, Richard
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If you're handy with a soldering iron, do as I did and break the glue joint, swap the leads over and hey presto!
Cheers, Richard
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On 27/09/2020 at 15:01, Prince Brainier of Meccano said:
There are lots of "imperial threads".
Now this modern metric stuff ...
Watch out for the pitch differences! M8 x 1 will not work well with M8 x 1.25.
At this point a former colleague would say "You know the great thing about standards? There are so many to choose from!"
I've just identified a threaded hole which is missing its set screw (on my 1960's Moulton bicycle) as 2BA. Now, do I source a 2BA screw or re-tap to M5???
Cheers, Richard
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Ultimate car alarm?
Maybe there's an option to turn yours into a rusty MG.
Cheers, Richard
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2 hours ago, Pbruce9393 said:
The drivers door won’t open unless the keys is used in conjunction with the door handle, and the rear tailgate doesn’t lock at all.
Peter, if the driver's door needs key and handle then it sounds like the barrel is OK but the lock needs an adjustment or possibly broken mechanism. My passenger door did this for years! Sadly I can't remember what it was except I removed the door card and it had to do with one of the two actuating rods.
As for the tailgate, does the key rotate the barrel? If it does then the barrel is OK but the mechanism is the problem. If the barrel doesn't rotate then it may well be gunged up.
In either case I recommend trying dry PTFE (Teflon) lubricant to free it up. I use this stuff but I'm sure there are other brands. Just make sure it's PTFE, solvent, and nothing else. You should never use oil on locks because it attracts dirt which works its way in and forms a grinding paste.
If you should change your locks then you can transfer the barrels from the old locks (provided they work!) so you keep the original keys all matching.
Cheers, Richard
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Hag, if gaps are good then sounds like it's not the problem. My Gold Seal engine circa 1989 developed a misfire after a few months. Only happened 50mph plus or gradient, when engine really hot and on hot dry days. Of course never when I took it in to BL. Turned out to be one gap was tight and when hot said valve wasn't closing. (Burnt out?)
Cheers, Richard
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You've checked the valve gaps?
Cheers, Richard
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If you DIY then I would suggest you do NOT use household flex as this melts at a significantly lower temperature (80'C?) than vehicle cable, tri-flex (115'C?), ect. When I removed the house flex from mine I used PTFE (250'C), but this can be a pain to crimp unless you have the proper tool. I think silicone (200'C?) would be fine but I had none suitable. The problem here is that this cable is not double-insulated, so I also used some high temperature sleeving (it probably came from a fan heater, cooker or clothes iron) which I had and ran it right through the gear stick, end to end. This is glass fibre reinforced silicone and effectively double-insulates the wiring, which I think it is perfect for this application. I like the idea of cable tying at the bottom to minimise flex. At the top I covered the contacts on the ends of the leads with heatshrink sleeving and then ran a scalpel down where the switch contacts fit. As if all that wasn't enough, I have an OD logic controller (it's just two relays!) which, amongst other things, puts the gearstick switch on the chassis side of the wiring, so a short is not fatal - i.e. it won't fry your wiring. My OD has been trouble-free since I made all these changes several (10?) years ago.
Cheers, Richard
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Must have been just after 2pm as we drove north back to Reading and you passed us heading south towards the Calleva Arms in a (Russet?) brown W-reg Dolomite. We waved from my Nearest & Dearest's red Suzuki. It wasn't Andy Cook.
Cheers, Richard
PS: I'm rather fond of Dolomites. Here's my 1850, bought in 1983 and rusted to bits circa 1990.
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Ziggy, has it just started doing this or been getting worse over time? Or have you just bought your TR6?
As Nigel says, I believe this isn't unusual. In addition to those suggestions, another possibility is an inward leak in the fuel system. Petrol doesn't leak out when running but air leaks in when stopped - especially when cooling down after a run. (Mine has no problem started if I've previously run it for just a few minutes!) Has yours been reconditioned since ethanol fuel came in? If not then the various rubber seals and diaphragms will not be resistant and will deteriorate over time. I think mine just pre-dates ethanol and does this. Either live with it or send the metering unit & injectors off to one of the experts (KMI, Prestige, K Raven Smith, and ... someone in Kent I've forgotten) to have it recon'ed.
Do you know about feeling the fuel lines to the injectors for the "pulsing" as it ticks over?
Cheers, Richard
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I think that will require re-modelling of the g'box tunnel to accommodate the 2nd OD. Even the ORS self contained jobbie will need somewhere and there's little or no room between the chassis arms down there. (We are talking Herald, Vitesse or other small chassis, aren't we?) The Borg Warner T5 gearbox is available with a really tall 5th gear - that might be an option.
Cheers, Richard
"upgrade brakes to dual system"
in Braking System
Posted
Agree with that! Having had this happen to me on my (dual circuit) Spit, I would also choose a dual circuit over single any time. You only find out when you're actually braking that there's a problem and if it happens, having the presence of mind to go for the handbrake is one of those things that takes a second or two to percolate through the old grey cells. The brake pedal goes further down (because you have no pressure in half the MC) but you still have some retardation. If you're driving like the road is your personal race track then that won't be enough. If you're being a bit more leisurely it probably will.
I converted my 1977 Spit with bits from my '79 model when it went to that great scrap yard in the sky. You need the MC of course, plus the lower and steeper angle bracket (to hold the MC lower so it doesn't touch the bonnet) and you already know about the dish in the bulkhead so it clears there (like the one behind the battery for US models which had dual circuit years earlier). I simply declared the change to the insurance company - no problem there. Then the standard setup is front one circuit, rear the other. As has been said, less likely to spin when you panic and hit the pedal hard - which you will!!! I did not fit the PDWA (Pressure Differential Warning .... don't know what the last one is) as it only illuminates a silly little light on the dash - which you probably won't even notice. You'll know something's wrong because your foot WILL feel the difference!
Cheers, Richard