Tipidave

I have read about your experience with great interest. Almost exactly the same situation as I have experienced. I too put in a pressure adjustable fuel filter for the same reasons. Although largely I have now solved the problem of fuel leaking into the manifold, I think that the comment about keeping things standard and adjusting pressure from the fuel pump is probably the way to go together with copper fuel pipe from pump to carb. I think that we have unwittingly contributed to the problem due to the increased volume of fuel in the system at whatever pressure is set (fuel at 7 psi can slowly leak through the filter valve once stopped). If we take the fuel filter out, then the residual fuel volume in the fuel line at 1-2 psi will only be a few ml… and if it does break through the float valve will not cause too much of a problem. There is one other important aspect to this… the solex carb float valve was installed in many variants of carb and required a different thickness of washer under the float valve… this has an impact on how full the bowl is when the valve cuts out. Couple this with the lower specific gravity of modern fuels and the tendency is for the bowl to even more full. Turns out that even a very small variation in level can have a big impact on the richness of the idle circuit and also contributes to the tendency for residual fuel to overflow. Make sure that you have the correct thickness of washer installed. (There is an article on this in one of the 1980s Courrier magazines). Also, do not assume that the valve is the correct diameter I think that a 1.3 is specified but a valve with a larger surface area seems less susceptible to leaking. Also, as Pete so wisely told me in a reply, tiny slivers of rubber do have a habit of breaking free from the fuel hose and causing the valve to seat incorrectly. So when disturbing the flexible fuel hose take great care to flush through before re connecting. I have experimented and now use a 1.6 valve with a thicker washer and have more or less resolved the issue. I think that I will go on to remove the adjustable filter and correct the pressure at source with a thicker gasket as described elsewhere. Good luck with your solution. It is very frustrating but can be solved.

I used the existing feed to the radio that is switched via ignition barrel on both ignition and accessory side. I figured that 2.1amps at 5.5 volts is only 1 amp at 12v. I left it all on for quite a while and felt terminals and they were still cold…and it is protected by an in line fuse. Neat job and v happy 👍😀

https://www.classicchargers.com/ chap called Phil (in Canada) made it up for me. I gave him a photo and a few measurements. And he had it designed and made in a couple of days. In the end it needed a little bit of minor adjustment to fit. Overall it works well and no one would know!

Thanks for the helpful suggestions… Have to say that I am rather pleased with the result. A useful pair of USB ports quietly hiding in the otherwise redundant ashtray 😀😀👍👍

That was my intention by taking a feed off the spare coil spade … still not sure if it will carry a lot of “noise” and interfere with the 12v to 5v part in the usb unit. Maybe I will just give it a go and see… should be here in about a week . Will update when done 😀👍

I had thought that a switched terminal would be best… however now you mention that I guess I could also install a socket to allow the connection of my battery conditioner without a need to open bonnet if it were a permanent live…. Hmmm! 😀👍

Thanks for the reply… I already have this terminal in use for the radio and a Bluetooth adapter… didn’t really fancy disturbing it all again as it is a bit difficult to get at… hence thinking about the coil spade. 😀👍

Hi all, I am currently fitting a usb socket in the ashtray of my herald 1200. I am wanting to know whether the spare 12v spade terminal on the coil would be a suitable place to pick up a supply for the usb… or will it be too ‘dirty’ with noise from the ht circuit?

Great that sounds like a good option then 😀👍

Thank you all… that is very clear. One final point…. Is it considered to be a worthwhile exercise? I would like to get the car to a point where it isn’t revving so high on dual carriageway/motorway. I am thinking once engine done to save more pennies and then change gearbox(O/D) or diff to make improvements. all views welcome 😀👍

Just want to check if I can swap out a tired 1200 and replace with a 13/60 with the minimum of fuss and bother… same clutch? Gearbox etc. thanks in advance dave

Thanks 😀👍

Could anyone tell me whether a set of 13/60 seat covers are likely to fit a 1200 convertible without looking odd? thanks in anticipation of the combined wisdom of the forum 😀😀👍👍

Ha yes… I shall keep looking; and will use this as an excuse to go to assorted autojumbles!

Does anyone know if it is possible to find an original tool kit for a triumph herald? I have been looking but have not seen on for sale. Do they ever come up? thanks in anticipation David

On my 1967 herald convertible the clutch is starting to bite upon lifting the pedal less than a centimetre from its lowest poin.?when on a run I have noticed it is difficult to engage first gear without a bit of a crunch. I imagined it was probably an incorrectly bled system, but after removing the tunnel and with the help of a friend we re-bled the system and no air was seen. There being no other adjustment I wonder what might be the cause... any suggestions and or remedies??? Thanks in advance david

I recently posted about a problem with fuel leaking from the spindle of my b30pse1 whether hot or cold and the difficulty of getting the fuel pressure right for the carb. I have now come to what I think is a composite solution to the problem which I thought I would share. I have read lots of accounts of similar issues online so I know that I am not alone. Firstly I started with a fuel pump that it turns out was pushing 10psi, a replacement was closer to 4 psi and it failed after less than 30miles use... upon close inspection it I was clearly destined to fail. So even buying from a reputable source is no guarantee of a fit for purpose part. I ended up using known good original that Colin very kindly sent and subsequently sold to me. The spring in the original was noticeably weaker than either of the two “modern replacements”. It is the strength of the spring that determines the pump pressure. The displacement of the diaphragm determines the volume of fuel moved. I retained the filter king regulator that the previous owner had installed (presumably to help rectify the problem of having a 10psi fuel pump!) and set it to register just 1psi (knowing of course that the gauge may well be somewhat inaccurate at such a low setting) ... working on the assumption that if at high speed the combination of a smaller valve diameter(see below)and lower pressure were providing too low a flow of fuel , then I could increase it. Following my enquiry to Esso about the specific gravity of the fuel that I use , it seemed likely that the float was sitting lower in the fuel than it should; meaning a too high level before the valve tries to close. Modern fuel does have a lower S.G than four star of old. I managed to adjust the float a little, and set it with a second 1mm washer in addition to the 2mm thick washer under the float valve. I tried a total of 4mm but this resulted in difficulty starting. The combination of 3mm washers has weakened the idle mixture (smells different) and it starts on the button whether hot, cold or somewhere in between. In the end, tried three float valves. And settled upon a 1.3mm rather than a 1.5 mm that had been recommended....even the third valve was still leaking although much improved.... so I ultrasonic cleaned it, tamped it home gently to help it seat, and then put some t cut into the valve and span the metal valve end by connecting it to a dremmel. This was then thoroughly flushed with carb cleaner.The combined effect of polishing it and tamping it to create a better seat seems to have worked. in combination these steps have now resolved the issue and the whiff of petrol upon cutting the engine is no more. Hope that this somewhat lengthy report might help someone else who experiences such a worrying symptom that must have been a fire risk. Thanks to everyone who contributed ideas to my original post. Very much appreciated.

Hi I too have had a similar issue with a leaky seal around the top of the fuel pump where it is screwed down. My solution was to re-tap the thread to take an M5 bolt and use an M4 neoprene washer carefully threaded on to it and underneath a steel washer. I have also purchased some cork washers to try if this proves unsuccessful.

Just fitted an original old fuel pump that was kindly sent by a member for me to try. I was astonished to feel just how much lighter the spring Mechanism is on this original pump. I do not understand why it is seemingly impossible to buy a correctly rated replacement? haven’t been out for a test test run but so far looking good and no whiff of petrol in the garage. thanks for all the help and advice👍👍

Thanks for this suggestion. Colin is going to send me a known good pump to try. At least this way i can be sure of the diagnosis.

It isn’t really two pumps causing the same... the new pump I installed was observed to be outputting 4psi which was a vast improvement of the 9-10 from the original. The over flow problem was not entirely sorted but much improved. This fuel pump failed after just a few miles and upon inspection was always destined to do so... just not of a good enough quality. so I fitted the original ( still a replacement and not from the sixties) back on for time being with the spring out of the new one. I haven’t measured the output pressure but it was back to its old trick. I am hoping that if I can get a pump with 1. 5 psi output or there abouts all will be well again. Just not sure how to source such a pump... but looks like Colin can help👍👍👍

I did consider this... the float was tested and found good. There is definitely a possibility that the float sits slightly low if the modern fuel has a lower specific gravity than the old fuels... and I did find reference to this in an old solex manual which specified different weights of float for differing fuel qualities. As previously stated I have experimented with lowering the valve with an additional washer but it made no improvement. I remain convinced that this is all down to the wrong fuel pump pressure, but do not yet have the means to correct it.

The carb is the b30 solex. The only adjustment to float level is the thickness of the washers that sits under the float valve. I have experimented with thicker but no difference. Also tried clamping off the fuel hose before carb upon stopping and that did stop any leaking. Pretty sure it is all down to not having a correctly regulated fuel pump. Hence my request for suggested known good suppliers and or a suitable source of replacement springs.

The pressure from the pump alone is too high... so it has an adjustable pressure reducing filter in line. I think that the fuel on the high pressure side is bleeding over when stopped.it isn’t a huge volume but any is too much !

My recently fitted new fuel pump has failed within a few miles and i really do not want to exchange it for another. The quality isn’t good. Despite assurances from the vendor. My previous (non original)fuel pump was pushing out way too high a pressure. So I have taken the spring out of the new pump and fitted it to the old. Still it is pushing out 4 psi which is just enough that after I switch off it slowly leaks some fuel into the carb throat and out of the spindle and on to the manifold. It does this when cold so is not related to the temperature. I have gently tamped the float valve to ensure a good seat and believe it too be good. I am trying to get hold of an original ac delco pump in order to get the pressure down to a level that is tolerated by the valve in the carb. Does anyone else know of anyone who is selling a good quality replacement part with the correct rating? Or where i can get a correctly specified spring? or should i be considering a fuel cut off solenoid? In all other respects the car is running beautifully at the moment but I am not happy to have the garage reeking of fuel and do not want to drive it with this problem. As ever your advice gratefully received.