Tipidave

I was just congratulating myself for finally getting round to fitting the rubber seal that sits on the soft top header and mates with the windscreen frame. It was quite a struggle to get it to sit in the channel... but finally it is done. Beer all round you might think! However, it is now impossible to get the soft top to close and before adjusting the brackets I am wondering if I have fitted it the right way round... or maybe even have the wrong seal. I have looked everywhere for a schematic but cannot tell. The seal is roughly a square cross section with a slit cut in it to create a thick pad and a thin flap. I have mounted it such that the thin flap mates with the inner part of the windscreen top , the slit sitting around the raised section on top the windscreen frame and the thick part mating the outer windscreen frame. Can anyone confirm this is correct or otherwise? Thanks again oh and Merry Xmas to all!!

I will try nipping it up in the first instance. Thanks.

Thanks... I will wait until tank is near empty and then get on it 👍👍😀

I should have said... car is my 1966 herald 1209 convertible. 👍

Hi again, recently the chrome fuel cap has been difficult to locate. There are three brass lugs that need to locate. Is there any way to adjust? I am assuming that the cap needs to breath so as not to create a lock. as another issue, the fuel pipe where it emerges from the tank is loose and wobbly and smelling a bit of fuel. The reserve tank lever will not stay in the ‘main ‘ position. Any idea where I can get a replacement ‘top hat’ style rubber insert. My guess is this is hardened, cracked or otherwise failed. Thanks once again in anticipation of ideas and help

Thanks for the help. i will be checking at the weekend 👍

Thanks for suggestion. It seems that I need to stop engine, wait a few minutes and fire again and all indications are normal again. No not recent change. Maybe February? Use Rimmer bros for parts. Been fine all summer. Wonder if related to cold weather / viscosity Somehow?

Hi all, my 1147 Herald starts as normal but oil light stays on and oil pressure gauge does not register. I revved engine and let it run for 30 seconds or so without change. Turned engine off and checked a couple of things under bonnet. Note that there are some air bubbles in the clear oil pressure gauge line. Oil level good and condition of oil as new. Restarted and both light and gauge respond normally. first time I thought maybe it was a one off. It has now done the same thing last three days. Any ideas? thanks in advance

Thanks for this . I tried something similar with a palette knife but it didn’t work and I stopped. Will try with screwdriver and not stop!I am guessing that there will be a knack!

Hi all, Triumph Herald 1200 1966 I need to fit the weather seal to the convertible hood that mates with the top of the windscreen frame upon closure.I understand how it needs to fit but cannot for the life of me figure out how to do it. It keeps popping out. is there a technique for getting the seal to pop under the edges of the channel that it is sits in. hope this makes sense. thanks in anticipation of your collective pearls of wisdom in respect of installing seals.

Hi all, I am replacing a rather tatty headlight toggle switch on my 1200 herald with the original pull type switch. My problem is that the new switch does not come with the chrome bezel that I am missing. I have tried to source one but drawn a blank so far. Does anyone know where I can get one?

Well with your help I think I have cracked it... the bulk of the noise was down to two manifold bolts that had worked loose... as suggested sovthankyou😊 the engine is very much improved. I have also identified that when closed the bonnet lettering is making a small noise which is really of no consequence. Once again thank you for all of your suggestions. Now singing like a Japanese sewing machine 😂

Thanks for the reply. I have tried using a trusty large screwdriver for this purpose but really couldn't hear anything untoward. Tappets and valve gear all sound even across the head and as stated I have run the engine without belt to isolate water pump and alternator as a source of the noise.

Thanks for the suggestions... I will investigate the manifold next. I did wonder whether excess play in the rocker shaft might be responsible. I have tried to investigate this but do not really know how to diagnose. I do not know what normal is like. I wouldn't describe it as rhythmical exactly more like something a bit flappy in the engine...seem not to notice so much on revving up more on revving down and idle.

Probably difficult to diagnose on a forum... but any advice welcomed. Having had an unleaded head for my 1147 herald all is running beautifully with one exception... there is a loose and tinny rattle from somewhere. I have reset tappets... all good. I have run for a brief while with belt removed to rule out water pump and alternator bearing. Not this. just wondering what else it might be. it is really only noticeable on idle and even then is not consistent. I had even considered the silver triumph letters on the bonnet because they are a bit loose. My trusty long screwdriver used as a stethoscope has not revealed anything untoward and I cannot for the life of me figure it out. Before the head overhaul the engine had overheated quite badly. Is it possible for the crown of a piston to just be striking the head? or would that make a good awful din? Finally do the timing chain tensioners go eventually? Any thoughts gratefully received.

Thanks for the replies .... I will be on the phone in the morning ... let's hope I can get hold of the parts😀😀

So... the new head is on and the car is running like a Japanese sewing machine... happy days. But... have just noticed a small trickle of liquid emerging from a hole on the manifold. My question is what is the hole for? Is something missing ? And what is the liquid?

I have spoken to the supplier and the metal side mates with the block... it is intended to allow for the minor movement of the block as it expands and contracts. Thanks for all your replies!

The washers were thicker and did not fit on the studs... only by the smallest of margins. Gasket will fit equally well either way up but is suspect that there is a "correct" way. Thanks for suggestion about the the smear of sealant .

i am ready to start reassembling.... the head is skimmed and new exhaust valves seats and guides. The new head gasket is silver metal on one side and black on the other. My question now is which way round to fit it ? Metal side down ? Also does it need any kind of sealant? Also I am having difficulty finding new washers for under the head nuts... the ones supplied are the wrong size! And other suppliers have said they have been on back order since before Christmas... any suggestions? Can I re use the old ones?(two were slightly dished)

I think I will take advice from the engineers.... they weee recommended by a garage that I use for MOT and other work. It is many years since I did any of this... I have some experience but when you see something unexpected I like to understand before jumping in... it is a bit like a detective story. I am sure all of the signs are there it is a case of interpreting it! Thanks for all the advice Great stuff👍👍

The other thing is that it did sound wrong .... a bit percussive and noisy as if I had a blowing exhaust.

Thanks for all the advice! I will take head to a local company for a pressure test and skim and ask about the other work. I am still a bit perplexed by the clean area in the no 4 cylinder head. If you look carefully it is looking a bit marked as if perhaps it is hitting the head... there is no corresponding evidence on the head itself so maybe I am over analysing it a bit. Just want it to be right!!!! 😀😀👍

Possible but I haven't driven it enough to know. It was laid up in a garage and stored for nine years... I'm wondering now if this is why it was taken off the road in the first place... just seems odd to me that only the small crescent area is clean metal... that said there is no corresponding evidence on the face of the head. I have check and all washers under head bolts flat except for the one between 3 and 4 on the manifold side which is definitely dished. I would like to diagnose what has happened before proceeding with the head! 😀👍

Not rich I think. The engine did overheat quite badly due to a coolent leak. One of the head but washers was dished... I will go back to check if that was on number 4. I am concerned the the piston crown is percussing the head hence the clean area on number 4 and that the gudgeon is worn and allowing the piston to. Make contact with the head. Is this possible?