[Clutch Bearing Query]

Thanks Guys.

Air in system was my first thought so did bleed it again but solo so never really sure what is happening at the other end! Will repeat with assistance.

Couldn’t see any leakage and certainly the master level had not dropped.

Will check pedal return but all refurbished so should be ok.

[Clutch Bearing Query]

On 28/03/2023 at 11:01, Pete Lewis said:

there is a spring in the slave to keep the bearing in contact with the diaphragm fingers

Can I resurrect this topic please?

My original problem was that I was concerned the bearing was in permanent contact with the fingers, however I was reassured this was normal.

Now I have the opposite problem!

I have started to have difficulty engaging 1st and reverse and realise the clutch pedal now has around 1" free play (i.e. before engaging with the clutch). 

Would I be correct in assuming the cause is the slave cylinder internal spring is not doing its job? If so this is a little disappointing as it has done less than 50 miles.

Of course all trim/carpet/sound insulation is now fully installed so making the job even more of a pain ☹️

[Vitesse Hood Fitting Instructions]

On 29/06/2023 at 11:36, Gary Flinn said:

the tops of the Door windows caught on the hood sides!

Gary, many thanks for your replies.

I thought the lower trim should be above the edge seam as the mohair is quite thick here and it would be difficult to do anything else. My hood has a removable rear window which I think necessitates the upper trim to be above the seam. Again the mohair seam is too thick to fit the trim on it. Might have to adjust the hood frame to suit here.

Your comment re the width and doors is interesting as mine appears to be the same. I need a second pair of hands to check it properly but it does appear  to be the case. Did Don hoods get the original to fit or did they remanufacture another?

I am beginning to move more towards getting professional help!!! 😩

[Vitesse Hood Fitting Instructions]

On 02/06/2023 at 14:00, Gary Flinn said:

Here's a couple of photo's of what my Mohair hood looked like when fitted (Done by The Don Trimming Co. though in Brum) so I can't take any credit

Gary,

Your hood looks great, nice and tight all round and what I hope to finish with 🤞.

To help I wondered if you could post a photo showing the location of the two rear chrome trims in relation to the seams on the mohair hood?

In particular is the lower trim located above the hood edge seam and is the upper trim located above/below/on the horizontal seam?

An area I am worried about is above the door windows as it would appear it can only be tensioned front to back as there is no sideways fixing in this area. I have heard some people use velcro in this area? Yours looks so good here did the fitter add any additional restraint?

Thanks in advance

 

[Vitesse Hood Fitting Instructions]

Bit late to the party but this might help.

Extract from Practical Classics circa 1987.

Also just received my Hood from Don Hoods and trying too decide whether I am brave enough to fit it myself 🥴

 

 

 

[Vitesse, fitting timing cover.]

I agree! 
….next time.

[Vitesse, fitting timing cover.]

All back together now - using a piece of coat hanger as suggested.

thanks again.

[Vitesse, fitting timing cover.]

Thanks all.

I agree would be easier with the pump removed but was hoping to avoid that. The manual suggests it is possible with it in place and mentions a “tool” to hold back the tension spring but the photo is such a bad repro to be illegible!

Collar out should provide a little more movement? 

Confirmation that if the cover seats correctly the tension spring will be correctly engaged is a comfort!! Thanks again 
 

[Vitesse, fitting timing cover.]

Afternoon all,

Is there a knack to refitting the timing cover in-situ? 
With the engine face vertical and the water pump in place I’m struggling! 

Is it possible for the cover to fit if the tensioner is not in the correct place?

ie can I be confident all is well once the cover is fitted?

thanks

[Setting Valve timing with unmarked sprockets]

I have restored the engine to standard spec so these finer points, whilst valid for achieving peak performance, will not be so important for me. All very interesting though!

[Setting Valve timing with unmarked sprockets]

Thanks guys for the confirmation re interference.

I have a standard cam and the head has been lightly skimmed once so I guess all will be ok 🤞

the procedure seems straightforward enough if not a little tedious. Not something I’ve done before but always fun to learn new stuff!

[Setting Valve timing with unmarked sprockets]

2 litre Vitesse. 

[GT6 timing chain cover bolts]

Yes, also a fall back position after the gorillas have been at your engine!

[Setting Valve timing with unmarked sprockets]

Morning All

Fitting new cam chain and sprockets (unmarked).

Is it possible to turn the cam and crank independently without introducing the valves to the pistons?

I can’t remember if an open valve protrudes beyond the head face.

I am looking to reconfirm TDC using a piston stop and thought I should remove the rocker shaft first just in case?

thanks

 

[GT6 timing chain cover bolts]

I guess that makes sense. Thanks.

[GT6 timing chain cover bolts]

Can I just ask why the use of different fixings?

I get the need for a shorter bolt but why can't bolts be used for all? Certainly easier to fit!

I ask as my car has a random mixture, should I be concerned?

[2 Litre Mk2 Diagnostic Help Please.]

14 hours ago, johny said:

I wonder if either its vac advance or centrifugal advance has got stuck or broken?

I did check the the vacuum and all was working as it should. The Dizzy is new/rebuilt.

 

[2 Litre Mk2 Diagnostic Help Please.]

I agree the chamber can't be pressurised but I'm guessing fuel level within became erratic and often high due to the feed pressure .......all guesswork but the fuel regulator sorted it!

[2 Litre Mk2 Diagnostic Help Please.]

24 minutes ago, johny said:

I take it the carbs were over flowing due to the high pressure overcoming the float valves?

Not visibly. The float valves withstood the pressure but once there was a fuel demand I think the high pressure within the fuel feed pipe caused too much fuel entered the chamber until the valve closed. The engine ran but started to choke up on tick-over/low revs. No fuel could be seen to overflow so it was a difficult problem to identify.

[2 Litre Mk2 Diagnostic Help Please.]

Hi All,

I have been trying to get my rebuilt engine running sweetly for a while now. Progress was being made as the rich running was down to a repro fuel pump delivering 15psi fuel pressure. Thanks to another post on here for directing me to look at that one.   Regulator fitted and all was well.

On a recent test run I was doing about 40 mph with the engine running well, I slowed to turn right and then the engine spluttered and became difficult to keep running with little or no power. Luckily I was very close to home and it was downhill all the way. The engine would tick over but very lumpy. Delayed or little response to throttle. Engine note dull and flat

I checked all the usual suspects. Fuel ok and spark ok. Carbs function ok, inspected the rocker operation ok, compression test ok.

Although the dizzy hadn't moved I checked the timing with a strobe and found it to be around 30 BTDC !! Trying to adjust closer to a more realistic value simply caused the engine to stall. Obviously the problem but what caused it?

I thought may be the timing chain had slipped but at TDC, No 1 cylinder remains on compression stroke and the rotor arm points to No1 ignition lead. To be sure I removed the timing cover to confirm marks on the two sprockets still lined up, they did.

However I have fitted a Lumenition Magnetronic Electronic Ignition Kit. Not sure if this could cause such a problem? I always thought they either work or didn't work! 

Your thoughts please.

 

 

 

[Clutch Bearing Query]

Thanks Pete,

The clutch is all new and yes the budgie squeak is what drew my attention to investigate. I think for now will leave it alone and hopefully the noise will disappear. If not it is all easily accessible to add a spring/stop later.

 

[Clutch Bearing Query]

Morning All,

Just a general question which will apply to most cars, a Vitesse in my case.

Viewing the release bearing in operation I notice the bearing stays contact with the clutch when released and therefore continues to spin.

Manually releasing the actuating arm further very slightly (1-2mm) and it stops.

I am assuming the bearing is not designed to spin continuously.

[Vitesse Hood Fixings]

Many thanks, all very useful.

23 hours ago, NonMember said:

not a case of how the fabric is attached "when erected" - it's a permanent attachment that remains when stowed.

Ah, I didn't realise it was permanently fixed in this area.

 

21 hours ago, Gary Flinn said:

there is a flap on the inside of the hood that folds over the inside of the hood well steelwork secured by 'U' shaped clips to keep the tension

I was given an unused hood by the PO (but it is 30 years old!) and looking at that I see that it has the internal flap referred to. I guess this folds around the highlighted bit below and the 'U' clips fit the recessed edge? However, although unused I don't intend using this hood due to its age/condition so will have to check this detail with any new supplier.

 

20 hours ago, trigolf said:

The hood finishing trim is indeed fixed through the hood, but I've never had a leak from that area

Besides the two countersunk screws at either end what else hold the trim in place?

[Vitesse Hood Fixings]

Morning All

Just planning fitting a new hood to the Vitesse (when the weather warms up!) and trying to source all the necessary fixings.

There was no hood with the car but luckily it did come with a hood cover which helped me identify the 28No male stud locations on the body, 16 outside and 12 inside.

My conclusions regarding these fixings is as follows but I note some suppliers simply provide a bag of pop-rivets which is a cheaper option. Any advice/experience/alternatives?

• The 12No hood to tub/chrome trim fixed with screw/nut.
• 6No holding the top of the rear seat fixed with self tappers.
• Remainder of body stud fixed with pop rivets. 

However where I am really struggling is to understand the how, when erected, the hood is secured to the body between the end of the tub/chrome trim and the B-post as shown below. I can't see any poppers on the hood but surely it has a some fixing

 

.

Also the chrome trim above the rear window. It looks nice/original but requires putting holes through the hood 😳. Is this a good idea?

If I was to fit this trim I understand the ends can be secured with self-tappers (?) but what are the other central fixings? Are they the same type as those fixing the side trims/mouldings, i.e. creating a push-fit?

Any help, as usual, very much appreciated. Thanks.

 

 

[Fitting Body Mouldings/Trim]

 

On 20/02/2023 at 09:55, johny said:

Now I would try doing them through a hole cut in a piece of thick card!

 

22 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

and use a short length of brake pipe, maybe only 1/2 inch or so, over the shank of the river before putting it in the gun - this gives a bit of a gap

 

22 hours ago, Gary Flinn said:

offer up the original Stainless Finisher for the door and draw a pencil line top/bottom then drill in the middle between each line

 

21 hours ago, trigolf said:

I put a dab of waxoil on each trim clip head before clipping the trim

 

21 hours ago, Josef said:

o so through a bit of masking tape with a sharp bit at low speed

Many thanks, lots of good advice there.

The short length of trim to the rear of there filler cap has a special "hoop clip" listed in the parts book which appears to be unavailable. I can see superglue being involved at some point!

the bonnet clips do fit the trim so I think washers are the solution here.