Brian Sculpher

Has anyone had a similar problem - having removed the engine block water drain plug (1974 TR6 North American spec engine and ancillaries) I am unable to drain any water from the block, check hole for silt build up with inspection camera although unable to see clearly inside. The car was rebuilt circa 2018, assume they overlooked the block was clear - any suggestion how I may resolve safely? Best regards BRIAN

Hi Guys, Just to let you all know my Horn issue now sorted. Additional info only:- the horn push contact spade had to be increased in length in order to avoid a hard wired contact, the new pencil brush did the trick. Really appreciate all the Forum contributors for their help on this one - Brian

Thanks Guys - I have now ordered a new horn pencil and will give your suggestions a try out.

Thanks Colin - although this must be a last resort using say superglue, have you any idea what was done originally?

Hi All, Unfortunately I am still having horn function issues. Current update:- purchased replacement horn assembly for a Tourist Trophy or Motalita steering wheel. My wheel appears a clone wheel as the replacement horn plastic perimeter had to be reduced by at least 1mm in order to fit the boss. The back of the horn had a spade terminal in order to have an hard wire contact to the brush contact assembly. This will initially allow the horn to operate correctly until the steering wheel is rotated. I’ve traced the problem to the brush contact slipping out of the horn boss contact hole. One other issue being the metal contacts around the perimeter of the horn assembly which I believe secure the unit to the boss and give a final earth contact, 75% of the metal had to removed in order to install to the boss however good earth contact was maintained. I believe my issue is not being able to maintain sufficient contact with the brass ring contact surface - open to any advice on this one or if anyone else has had a similar issue. Best regards Brian

Hi Colin, Thank you for your prompt post. Yes it is an aftermarket steering wheel for my 74 TR6. I have taken another photo of the horn apart, you will see I increased the centre contact point with solder. The spring is rather poorly made up, can you recommend a part to purchase or does this have to be made up? Thanks BRIAN

Hello Guys, I have a similar problem with the horn not working after replacing the steering column bushes. The horn was not working prior to the above being completed. The issue has been traced to the push button area someone earlier has played around with the horn push by means of making up a metal plate under the button section followed by the brush section being made up with a closed wire contact. This just doesn’t work although I can make the horn work continuously with the horn in place. I have concluded the fault is within the press button area as I can short out the horn as working by means of shorting out to earth from the brass ring. I have no reference within the horn push area as there is next to no spring back within the horn push Best regards Brian

Hi Guys, My latest attempts to get the handbrake working-following Kevin’s post. It was suggested my brake cylinder was creating the issue. This indeed was the problem the cylinder was seized and the handbrake efficiency was greatly reduced. Having now made the cylinder operational and following a test drive it appeared not much difference however with constant use on the test drive it was apparent it was apparent handbrake operation was starting to improve. I would put this down to bedding in issue as these shoes have not operated the handbrake effectively for some time. I will wait an see how the improvement pans out in time. I must thank all the assistance I have been given by all the members, especially Kevin/Pete/Tony and the other members offering further improvements. A BiG THANKYOU

Thanks Kevin, that makes perfect sense to me now as I’ve never experienced this issue before. I agree I must have lost at least 75% of brake efficiency. Once again thank you and all others who have assisted in trying to resolve my issue. I’ll let you know how I get on. Best regards Brian

Tony / Pete / Kevin, Following your latest posts:- Re Tony’s post - yes cable was released and refitted following adjustment of brakes shoes, possible bed in problem however current handbrake hold is poor. Re Pete’s post - I’ve checked if the shoes could be fitted the wrong way round it appears this is impossible due to the handbrake slot in the shoe = one pair with cut out and one pair without. The top of the shoe adjacent to the handbrake arm slot is the area of the brake lining material which is slightly shorter than the shoe length. Re Kevin’s post - As I’m questioning my own sanity, your first section of your post indicates as I understand:- The lower section of the brake drum is merely an adjustment cam and the higher level is the cylinder providing normal breaking on both shoes, contacts at the top first. My understanding being when activating the handbrake the lever not only activates one primary shoe against the drum and providing the cylinder as lateral movement further contact is made at the adjacent side, which also has a greater shoe hand brake lining coverage. Firstly am I correct and providing the wheel cylinder has free lateral movement you achieve upper contact with both shoes. Perhaps you could confirm. Thank you Brian

Additional my previous post - when the handbrake is activated it appears to lock off the upper part of one shoe is this correct? Brian ( (Plymouth)

Hi Guys, Thanks for all the posts and suggestions, currently I have undertaken the following with little success:- >Release the handbrake cable to the brake pivot arm >Checked the arm free movement with the drum off. >adjusted the linings tight to the drums prior to checking & adjusting the length of the cable followed by Re-adjusting the linings to the drums, then refitting the forks with split pin without any cable tension, handbrake continually in off position. The result being very little improvement although several more notches achieved on handbrake action. I’ve also considered wether the linings are correct or not, current literature indicates they are correct. I believe there are other posts avenues I can adopt, however a little unsure of the action I would need to take. With the drum removed the action of the lever arm activation on the lining appears good. Any plain suggestions would be appreciated for my limited understanding of an additional modification. With thanks Brian (Plymouth)

Thanks Guys, I will attend your recommendations in the next few days. Just one thing Pete am I right in thinking the backplate grooves you refer under the cylinder are in other words the lining backplate which located into the wheel cylinder although they did appear quite freshly replaced. Once again thank you all for your assistance - will let you all know how I get on. thank you Brian

For additional info there hasn’t appeared to been a leak in this area. I also washed the area out with a brake cleaner.

Hi Dan, Appreciate your comments although I believe the drum brakes have been adjusted correctly. Maybe other members have had a similar issue with your idea of the intermediate cable union behind the handbrake which should point forward, can this be confirmed by other members or are there any other scenarios. With thanks Brian

Hi all, Since my recent purchase of a TR6 I’ve experience a handbrake issue despite checking/cleaning/adjusting the rear brakes with very little lining wear. When engaging the handbrake 4 notches = maximum pressure they barley hold the car stationary. Foot brake braking appears perfectly fine. Has anyone out there had a similar problem - if so what is the cure? Any help would be appreciated. Best regard BRIAN

Whoops sorry Ian your help was also appreciated. with thanks Brian

Thank you Colin now ordered from Rimmers

Hi, is there anyone out there who can assist with a paint code for:- 1974 Triumph TR6 - Carmine red? with thanks Brian (Plymouth)

Yes Johny the fan runs on when the engine switched off. Brian

That makes perfect sense Johny, I’ll be doing some basin trials shortly and let you all know the results. Best regards BRIAN

Thanks Andy, comments welcomed

Hi Richard / Andy, Results of works undertaken earlier today. Temperature sender replaced = temp gauge needle risen just before normal level half way prior to electric fan cutting in. Pyrometer (laser thermometer) used on warmed up engine = neck of rad optimum heat omitted at 88/90 degrees C, noting an allowed variable of +/- 2 degrees. I believe as I’ve used a thermostat (hot climate) coupled with the electric fan switch operating on at 82 C of 68 C all the readings appear compatible with an engine cooling correctly. Finally I would be interested if you and all of the helpful responders are in agreement with my current conclusions. Best regards Brian

Hello Richard, As I have now pre-ordered a temperature sender inclusive of infra red pyrometer would you know the normal operational range of the coolant? Best Brian

Hello Richard, Yes your comments make sense, although to play it safe I will replace the temp sender first then follow up with disconnecting the electric fan. My reasoning for playing it safe is because when the engine appears to reach operating temp followed by stoping and cutting of the engine I can hear water being transferred via the expansion tank and also include a water temp check via pyrometer check. Really appreciate your and Johns input - will let you know the outcome soon. Best regards Brian