Brian Sculpher

Richard, John, My collective responses as requested. Hot climate thermostat installed (x 74 degrees C) - as improved aid to cooling this summer. Compatible with thermo switch installed EFC at 82 C on 68 C off. Inclusive of a new radiator cap 7lb 1inch depth to suit TR4 x radiator neck. The current temp transmitter/sender is colour coded red (this unit has not been changed, adjacent thermostat area TR4) however I am not clear which colour should be installed being now compatible. Spare parts manuals do not also advise a colour requirement! In respect the wiring links ie; 2x gauges, brake and indicators they are linked by the voltage stabiliser all earthed individually. Perhaps with your thoughts, replacements already installed, I should now consider changing my temp transmitter/sender, although I am unsure where I can purchase an operational product? Also looking at purchasing a pyrometer as suggested as a back up water temp re-check Further comments would be appreciated. Best regards Brian

Hello Richard, Really appreciate your help on this matter, below my additional clarifications. Recent changes to the coolant system which haven’t caused my latest issue or so it would appear. Lower rad hose electric terminal which monitors temp, brass fitting changed // Thermostat changed to suit hot climate. Dashboard temp gauge operating correctly and electric fan cutting in when required at higher temp range (for instance dashboard gauge just leaving normal range) fan then cuts in. The trigger for my issues appeared when brake/direction indicators failed to include dashboard fuel/temp gauges. I then ordered a voltage stabiliser which only gave me brake lights and direction indicators. We believed the v/s polarity was therefore positive earth, issued cured by installing a negative earth v/s resulting in everything working apart from the dashboard temp gauge electric fan engaging just prior to reaching the normal operating band. My concern is the car has warmed up correctly although reached a temp when the fan should normally cut in, despite the dashboard gauge indicating I haven’t reached operating temp. Trust my info makes sense to you and your additional comments would be welcomed. Best regards Brian

Hello Richard, Thanks interesting, your additional enquiry about the gauges working post VS install. Fuel gauge working correctly however temp gauge electric fan now operates when gauge first reaches start of normal band. Normally the fan would operate when leaving the normal band region, somewhat worrying if the electric fan failed to operate. Some month or so ago I changed the temperature sender in order to engage at a lower temperature, all was working correctly until vs changed. Am now somewhat confused as to whats going wrong as I did make sure the wire connectors on the vs were installed on the correct terminals. I would be interested if you have come across this issue before? Best Brian

Pete/Richard, Just to say thank you. The negative earth VS has solved my problems temp/fuel gauges now all working. As you indicated earlier it’s a potential problem for all owners of classics to ensure they obtain they correct polarity of parts. Best regards Brian

Thanks Richard I will let you know how I get on with your suggestions. Best Brian

Hi Richard/Pete, Believe your on to something with the voltage regulator (VS) as I believe when I ordered the wiring loom earlier this year I included a VS. As the suppler didn’t differentiate between positive and negative earth, the replacement I installed could well have been positive earth in error. What do you think, as these connections left no chance for error. Best Brian

Hi Richard yes correct worked continually since renewing wiring harness earlier this year. i was wondering if the hazard warning lights may be a link to the issue as the carpet in the passenger footwell had moved maybe there is a link fault occurring, perhaps I’m clutching at straws. What do you think? Best Brian

Can anyone assist with an electrical issue with a TR4 Whilst driving today my fuel+temp gauge failed to register, inclusive of brake lights and indicators, although hazards continued to function. The voltage stabilizer was replaced (item 27 TR4 wiring diagram) brake and direction indicators then operated again. However fuel/temp gauge would not function. I find it odd the heater blower functions correctly item 28/29 which in turn links via the voltage stabilizer item 27. Is there anyone else who has had a similar experience and can advise what else I could try? Thank you for your interest in my issue. Brian S (Plymouth)

Hi Pete, I appreciated your prompt response. I will undertake as suggested in the next few days as suggested. Turn down to 3 turns // although valve clearance were adjusted some month ago I will re-check as you now have advised. A close friend did a compression test some 3 months ago and were found to be fine, perhaps a may be necessary again depending on results of above changes/checks. If OK I let you know more later. Many thanks Brian

Can anyone assist? I recently had an issue with my engine failing to run correctly apart from idling only - as soon as the accelerator was depressed the car appeared to blow back through the H6 SU carbs. I have already undertaken the following in an effort to resolve: 1) Retimed the engine in accordance with the manual = No 1 cylinder confirmed at TDC and set the red rotary arm pointing to No 1, inclusive of a new set of points. 2) All the spark plugs were removed cleaned/capped and temporarily secured to the head ensuring a suitable spark achieved. 3) Refurb SU kit x 2no sets obtained/installed which includes: the Main jet, needle, gland cork caskets, seat cork casket, to include necessary replacement brass washers. Although the needle valve could easily be centralised during the rebuild, the piston below the cover cap would stick within the cylinder further adjustments resolved this issue. The mixture control was first set at 2 full turns from a snug point following the jet originally set correctly flush with the carb body. 4) The engine will now start albeit only briefly and backfires through the carbs and then stalls. Has anyone experienced a similar problem, as prior to my problem the car was running fine. With thanks Brian

Hi All - I’d like to thank you all for the replies (my charging issue). The fault has been now confirmed as an alternator failure. Thank Guys for your assistance in this matter. Brian (Newbie) Sculpher

Hi Tony - sounds like the best option checking the current directly out of the back of the alternator terminals. However being nervous of electrics what would you consider the safest way to connect my positive/negative terminals as the location for direct contact is a little tight. Brian

Hi (classiclife) Re; alternator type am not sure as was with the car when purchased some 14 years ago. The ammeter goes straight to +30amp on start up, by tapping the unit face it returns to charging around 15amps prior to settling down and returning to a negative charge with ignition light permanently out until next day. Brian

Hi thanks for the immediate response however I have limited experience with electrics. Whilst the car was running I checked the output at the battery terminals readings varied from 12.5 to 12.6. Is this check good enough to indicate an alternator fault? Brian

Hi am wandering if anyone else has suffered a similar issue. Engine starts quite happily from cold, ammeter indicates charging however within minutes the ammeter reverts to a negative reading. This is linked to the ignition light which will not show when switching on and off. The car is left overnight and the following morning the above issue is repeated again - this occurs time after time although a couple of instances when the car was left running for some 10 minutes the ammeter returned to normal charging although briefly. The alternator was checked by a friend and was considered operational although whilst spraying the alternator with an electrical contact spray the ignition light came on again continuously. Is there anyone who could advise me - perhaps my alternator is the issue? Thanks Brian