s99sdp
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Posts posted by s99sdp
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I've had a look around and some of the prices are crazy. I was just wondering if someone had found a chap refurbing them in his shed or something like that.
I'll keep looking until hopefully someone has pity on my or I find a miss spelling on ebay 🤣
SP
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I think I know before I post this that I may be looking for Rocking Horse s.....
I'm looking for replacement sun visors for my little Mk3 Spitfire, some replacements OR for the details of someone who refurbs them for a reasonable price.
I'll patiently await the avalanche of knowledge this site and its users usually afford complete muppets such as myself.CheersSP -
Try this guy for chroming....http://www.nmpltd.co.uk/metalfinishing/
I emailed James and he quoted me £450.00 + vat for the 3 Spitfire bumpers. Needless to say that he's really busy and there's a 3 month waiting list.
Worth a try
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You bloody geeks, you're all coming out of the woodwork now!
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Wow, just misspelling and calling my buggy a can has taken us down this road (see what I did there?)
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On 29/08/2019 at 17:00, Colin Lindsay said:
Never drove a can, meself... but it sure sounds like fun.
THAT, as Dave says, is indeed the problem. I think, if you jack the car up, and rotate the axle, you'll find one direction only that you have enough room where the yoke opens up due to the angle, but I haven't yet confirmed this myself. Otherwise, it's difficult to get anything to fit.
It feels like I'm in a can when I'm doing 60mph on the A14 and an articulated lorry basically runs over me.
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On 27/08/2019 at 07:34, Pete Lewis said:
These are the old nutshell to grease or not to grease
Sealed for life , what life
Whilst there plenty of experience with crap UJ from over sea's any decent unit will last as long as as the originals
Or there abouts , most were not greasable and have the myth of only lasting well beyond their expected life
Yes they have a hard life on a drive shaft but many have managed to out liven expectation
A good branded uj greased as supplied will not require regular servicing, especially with the limited mileages many manage.
The ones you are replacing have probably lasted 20 to40 years its a bit late to loose sleep over.
Service whats intended and drive ....more than worry more keep things in perspective
Well its hot again
Pete
"Service whats intended and drive ....more than worry more keep things in perspective"
Very wise words Pete. I've stopped almost all work this year on the can to actually get out and drive it. It's been the first time I've enjoyed driving in years.
SP
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On 31/05/2019 at 06:23, rolyberkin said:
GB Springs no longer refurbish springs as they states it makes them brittle?
New spring from them is £100 inc delivered.
Have you installed your new spring yet? If so, how does it look now?
SP
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4 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
I didn't use a separate busbar. I designated the 3 original fuses red, purple and green. Red and purple each had 3 wires hanging off them and green 4. Which handily adds up to 10. I wired the upper connections on 3 fuses on the top together and three on the bottom, then the remaining top 2 and bottom 2 together. I used solid copper wire I'd stripped from a heavy cable for the interconnection. To be honest it's an odd selection of things to be fused together, horn and hazards? Why are there separate connections for the wiper motor and wiper motor park?Starting from scratch I would have done it differently, but that's the way Triumph wired it. Plus it has the advantage that you're not messing with the loom, just the fuses.
Here is the diagram I keep posting on here. It's slightly off, the side lights DO physically connect at the red fuse not the instrument lights. And the green fuse has only 4 connections on my car. My heater fan comes off the ignition, ie the TOP of the green fuse! Why? You could only make 4 connections to the top and bottom of the fuses on old fuse box? Whatever, a separate in line fuse for that. (10amp).
Doug
I'm sorry if this is a stupid question, will this diag be suitable for my my 1970 Mk3 Spit? I've seen so many of these but not many of them seem to match up to my car.
I have issues with the dash lights and some wires still hanging loose and need a decent wiring diag as a starting point.
SP
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Let us know the outcome of the enquiry you sent to GB springs please.
SP
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I've had the same problem with my late Mk3. I replaced the rear shocks (twice) and the rear spring for what I thought was a decent one and I still have the same issue.
I may either refurb the spring I took off or send it to someone who actually knows what they're doing 😂 and then swap it back in and see how that works.
I heard someone say that you can put a Mk4 spring in, is that correct?
SP
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I put some pritt stick in the bottom of locating tool so the clips didnt fall off the tool into the door, fitted the outside rubbers first (theres an indent at each location to put a clip) then the internal felt strip.
It seems I got off lightly as I didn't have any trouble at all, the pritt stick keeping the clips on the tool helped loads. Without that I don't doubt £60.00 worth of fittings would have ended up in the field out the back.
SP.
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Please don't be offended if I say no, to either request. 😁
There's no way it would have fitted without cutting it, I was just careful that I made the same shape larger. If you live close I don't mind coming to help?
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Hello all, I can confirm I have successfully fitted the H frame today. As I mentioned before, I cut the frame, basically kept the same shape but cut it larger.
Sorry about the mess in the rest of the car, it's now been hoovered within an inch of its life.
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4 minutes ago, DanMi said:
I got rid of the vinyl gaitor as the early cars didn't have them originally. I think part of the problem is the bulk of the seams on the carpet, originals were molded not sewn
You're right Dan that definitely contributes towards the difficulty in fitting the frame. I wanted the frame in place mainly so the choke could be used without the dash flexing and I'm confident it will look ok when it's in so fingers crossed for the weekend when I finally position it.
SP
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Thanks Pete,
One thing I have is patience and i'm confident I'd done everything before coming to the conclusion of cutting the frame. I'm not the best with tools but I tried to just make the same shape of the frame, just bigger. I'll post a pic at the weekend to close the thread off....and give you all a laugh 😁
SP
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Hello All,
I indeed purchased 5/16 threaded rod and proceeded to attempt to pull down the frame somewhere close to being in the correct place.
Notice how I typed....'attempt to pull'.
In the 'attempt to pull' and fit, I totally destroyed the brand new rubber gear stick gaiter and the leather gaiter on the gearbox cover carpet.
I can confirm there was no way on gods green earth that the frame was going to fit. There was more chance of the guy that works down the chip shop who swears he's Elvis, actually being Elvis. And I can confirm, no one thinks he's Elvis.
There was more chance of Lord Lucan turning up at my door, along with Richey Edwards from The Manic Street Preachers whilst the Loch Ness Monster swam up the Ise River near by to oversee the work.
I could go on but I think you get the idea. Basically it wasn't fitting. So I cut it to fit 😥 ......and now it fits....over the wrecked gaiters 😊😊😊.
SP
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I was lucky as when I had my rear wings fitted it looks like they were done well and the chrome fits a treat. I didnt us large clips each end, just the small one all along.
I'd recommend doubling up by using the clips and the glue, it can't hurt.
SP
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19 minutes ago, clive said:
I would say 5/16unf. The top bolts are 1/4"unf. Or 6mm will be fine..... Needs decent sized washers.
Hi Pete, I have 6 mm threaded bolt here but didnt use it at the threads seemed different?
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When that was all bolted in it fitted perfectly which was a weight off my mind I can tell you. I think I'll take the advice above and use some threaded bolt to pull it down in to place then swap it over one by one for the chrome topped proper bolts.
I have some threaded bolt here but the thread isn't the same, anyone know the correct size I should use?
SP
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This makes me feel better....plenty of room to the right, none to the left, maybe brute force and a little ignorance will win the day
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The dash doesnt move up, the bottom of the dash that meets the H frame just rocks back and forth, obviously because the H frame stops that happening when its in place.
The sills were replaced when I had the body work worked on. I must had told the 500 times to brace and support the car, 500 times they told me that they knew what they were doing, I'll take the carpet out but I fear I'll have to cut the H frame to get it in.
I think my car may be your car's son!
SP
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On 17/04/2019 at 21:32, thescrapman said:
Getting the H frame in is a bit of an art.
you have to hook it over the gearstick and then pull the feet towards you as you push the top backwards.
You may need to lift the dash up to get the top in fully, then heave the feet to their final position.
This is miles out, do I take the dash knobs up and lift the dash? It seems quite solid and only flexes back and forth a little.
SP
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My brother and father have a '68 and a '67 respectively. I thought about going for the earlier model look when I had the rear valance replaced but I stuck with the its original ugly reversing cluster.
I didnt realise the wipers were different, every one of these cars seem to be made to order 😀
Rear Valence, metal or fiberglass?
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Whats the BIN price, I'd collect, pay cash and I'll give you my gf and her two kids if that will help seal the deal.
Please get back to me asap as I'd like to complete the deal today.
😎
SP