chrishawley
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Posts posted by chrishawley
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It's the right sort of stuff.
But......
If panels have become heavily contaminated (e.g. long term storage, been in an environment where oils or waxes have been misted) then the contaminants may be so widespread and soaked in that panel wipe can't lift them all out. In which case flatting and re-priming in 2-pack may be the only option. Or in the most extreme cases an isolator primer is needed.
Only rarely are airlines the culprit assuming that the compressor isn't knackered and that a remote oiler for air tools hasn't been used. But to control both water, but also other contaminants, a spray gun should not be run straight off the compressor. At least one, but maybe two, level(s) of filtration should be in place between the compressor and the gun. I always use at least one of a) an in line filter b) a filter regulator. Or both.
Anti-silicone drops are good stuff and minimise fisheyes pretty well. They can be used as a matter of routine. But they do alter the 'feel' of paint so a few minutes practice 'off the job' is a good idea.
Another factor which helps to suppress fisheyes is using a dust coat before applying the full coat. And giving that dust coat plenty of time (or warmth) to nearly fully harden before going in with the full coat .Won't eliminate silicones but is one more help.
I've assumed we're talking about 2-pack here. The issueswq with basecoat and clear are a bit different.
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Yup, concur completely about. My GT6 is nearing completion so I had it MOT'd. Given I've done a nut and rebuild I could have supposed that everything would be just so. Errr......
The (old skool) MOT man found;
1) excessive stiffness in steering
2) Locking tabs not turned over on rear hubs
3) Anti roll bar drop link bush fallen out
Not exactly major issues and all quickly fixed. But would have gone unfixed without MOT.
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I think I can help if you've not solved the matter already. My Spit has the original boot decal: The front decal is repro but I know it's just right because a template was made before the original was removed. I did not, regrettably, keep the template.
Let me know if you still need help with this and I'll ponder a way to get dimensions from firm datum points (tricky on the front because it's all compound curves and no straight lines.
Cheers
Chris
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This is a seemingly simple job: remove hinge from car, drift out existing pin with pin punch, press in new pin. Job done.
If only.
Where can it go wrong?
1) Pin seized/broken/bent and won't drift out. Ends up needing to be drilled/machined out.
2) Pivots (holes) in door side of hinge are worn to ovality. So even with a new pin there's still markedly excessive play and door flop. The chances of a repro pin fitting perfectly 'out of the box' are pretty minimal.
3) Hinges have been 'got at' by PO, so are very hard to put right
4) If all of above are insuperable then buy new hinges (e.g. Paddocks). Ok except the repro hinges are not made 100% accurate and can require skimming to the correct thickness and holes extending to line up with the captive plates.
The recovery procedures, using bushes, mentioned in the links above are excellent if one has the facilities for such machining.
My practical tip would be to acquire a least one spare hinge and refurb that on the bench then swap it over to the vehicle. At least then if one unit is unrecoverable one's not stranded with an un-driveable car.
I went round the houses on exactly this issue. In the end the most cost and time effective thing to have done would have been to buy repro hinges and adapt as required.
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My newly reconditioned diff (GT mk3) is largely ok but a tad noisy nonetheless. I figure that changing from the current straight EP90 to a 140 won't do any harm.
Rather than spending hours agonising over 'tech specs' could anyone advise on a suitable option/brand to use?
I take it a GL4 should be used rather than GL5. ??
And would it be better to use a straight 140 (e.g. Castrol) or a multigrade (e.g. 80w140).
Any advice appreciated.
Oh, and would 2 liters do it for a drain and refill.?
Cheers
C
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Figures from the 1975 Triumph ops manual are;
• static 10 degrees BTDC
Additional centrifugal advance (crankshaft rpm and crankshaft advance)
600 - nil
1100 - 2 to 6 degrees
1400 - 6 to 10 degrees
2000 - 8 to 12 degrees
3200 - 12 to 16 degrees
That's for a 45D4 distributor Lucas model 41449
The figures you have suggest a somewhat sharper advance curve. A thing maybe to check is whether those figures are from an American source. If so they may reflect the 1500 engine in its 'strangled' American iteration and not relate well to the UK configuration.
Getting 'on spec' is good but much is determined by the driving experience as well.
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Many thanks for plain-speaking views. That makes my mind up which is a firm 'no'. And DVLA MOT check shows no MOT so that's the coffin lid firmly nailed down.
Much as I fancy a Mk1 it's hardly a life-crisis not to have one so I'll just wait for something to come up in the Courier over the next year or so.
Thanks again.
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It's just wrong. The Spit does not require a universal joint since there's no angle of inclination between the lower column and the input on the rack. Something like an XJ6, where the column is inclined to rack, needs a UJ. What you've been sold is just not a Spitfire part.
Assuming the splines are ok I'd recondition the existing unit. Try Chris Witor at Suplaflex for replacement rubbers.Or failing that, Moss.
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Needs a lot of suck. I use a 100ml syringe (and 2 ft plastic pipe to attach). Handy for testing on the bench but also handy for testing with the engine running when (with a strobe) one can observe the timing marks moving as one sucks. Not precise, but provides general confirmation the vac unit is functioning ok and not leaking down.
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If I sold some of my other stuff I'd be interested in a Mk1 GT6. So the following offering caught my eye.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154565548086?hash=item23fcd31836:g:WoIAAOSwSwthE6g9
But it's a long way from where I am just to have a look. So would anybody have any suggestions on whether it might be worth a punt at around that price point. Or at least might be worth a look.
Obviously eBay photos only say so much but any thoughts would be helpful. For 20k+ I'd expect a GT6 to be in very well sorted condition without any remedial, significant, mechanical or bodywork matters to put right. Is this realistic?
Cheers
C
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I can say with confidence that I don't know the answer to this. But the little I do know would make me cautious about interchanging the regulators between 2, 3 and 4 wire types. An electronics whizz would be able to say for sure, but I'm not!
* One question is whether all 14TR regulators are 'the same' inside? No. The configurations differ in terms of transistors, capacitors and diodes so may or may not be functionally equivalent.
• Another difference is whether a surge protection diode is fitted to that a particular alternator or not. Some ACRs were, others weren't.
• Then there's external differences in connections depending on whether the alternator is battery or machine sensed. i.e whether there is a separate 'B+' terminal externally.
Given that 14TR regulators are readily available at under a tenner I'd be most inclined, for myself, to replace like with like and eliminate the variables.
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Problems not solved yet but possibly a working hypothesis.
On the reconditioned carbs the bridge to jet height was (minus) 42 and 54 thou. But I also have the deteriorated Triumph 2000 CDSEs on the vehicle at the moment. AFAIK these have never been 'worked on' and provide satisfactory performance. On these the jet height measures at 120 thou (of 1/8th inch I suppose).
So I've adjust the jets on the other carbs to 100 thou and will test them next week.
I can't find any ZS documentation from the time relating to jet height or the setting of it. It never occurred to me that fixed jets are, in a sense, adjustable. Were they always set the same? Or did the jet adjustment vary by application?
Until I crack this I remain open to all insights and suggestions.
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I can't be the first one to have encountered so I guess I just need to stay with it and absorb all possible suggestions and possibilities.
• The carbs have springs - but the grade is indeterminate. No witness as to colour so could be natural or blue or red with no colour left.
• The adjusting tool is a pertinent point in that yes I have one: With the needle on its max upward adjustment the idle mix is still lean (ignoring what happens at load for the moment). Purely impressionistically I get the feel that 'if only' there were one extra turn of adjustment I might be in a workable range.
* Buckeye site v.good
* I'd be very happy for starters to a just get a decent idle mixture - would at least be a positive starting point.
Happened across a Lotus site with much discussion of jet height on ZS carbs. Owners report various heights below bridge of 0.060 inches to 0.1250 inches. Don't know that that relates directly to Triumphs but does suggest that even minor discrepancy from OE spec in refitting the jet could have a major effect on operation. Since (i know now) one turn of the adjuster moves the needle by about 1/30th inch then if the jet is (say) 1/16th) too high the needle adjustment would run out of range.
So as well as trying some different needles I guess I need to be measuring the jet height. I don't have a shallow depth micrometer so is there a way to get an accurate measurement by some other means? And am I right to assume that the jet is a moderate interference fit which should move without major force if I judiciously warm up the body of the carb (e.g 100 degrees C)?
No further hands on work on this today but hopefully tomorrow.
Thanx
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Thanks for the replies which have got me asking the right sort of questions, although answers are as yet elusive.
I'd had it handed down to me that 1.5 inch carbs (be they ZS or SU) were never adequate fittings for 2.5L engines. But picking up on the Aussy spec I found reference that European 2.5 saloons had 1.5 inch ZS carb (CD3) also with B5DG needles. Meanwhile TRs always had 1.75 inch carbs. So I infer from that that BL found that a 150 series carb satisfactory on applications with a 'slow' cam and lower compression. My engine is 'slow' with the 10/50 cam.
Maybe I'll have to consider moving up to 1.75 carbs but will explore the lower cost options first. So, if it seems reasonable, I'll put some some B5DG needles in (or if unavailable B5CB) and see what happens.
QUESTION: What determines the height of the jet (in relation to the bridge) on a CDSE? The needle can only go in one place on the shoulder down the bore of the air valve. But the jet - does that have a fixed position or is it something I should be checking the measurement on?
I was hoping to make the Knebworth show in this car - but that hope appears to be receding (sad face thingy).
Thnx
C
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Hope you've got cleaned up ok!
Bit off topic but just to introduce some caution about using discs for flatting/cutting. Even 2000 grade on a rotary machine can rip through to primer very quickly on crowns and edges (although it's pretty safe on the flat). Everybody has their own way when refinishing but one way is to initially flat by hand with 1200 on a soft block and then work the G3 fast, hard and wet.
G3 (or G6) cut well but don't bring up much of a shine. Again, it's impossible to generalise, but after G3 or 6 it's common to follow up with G10 or 3M Finesse-It for a more reflective finish.
Hope it goes well.
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With much Forum help previously I had successfully rebuilt the 150CDSEs. Or so I thought.
But on installing them I can't get a rich enough mixture on the adjustment. By whatever means I use (piston lift, Colourtune) the mixture is weak at idle and across the whole range. Car won't pull above 3500rpm. Temperature compensators are blanked off. These were originally GT6 carbs and on rebuild the original jets and needles were reused. With these carbs the engine starts and idles nicely but feeble power beyond that. Nothing will induce the C.Tune to show anything other than blue.
I have a knackered pair of Triumph 2000 CDSEs and if I fit these overall performance of the vehicle is pretty reasonable. So although these carbs are beyond saving they work just well enough to rule out other (non-carb) causes of poor running.
I'd appreciate any suggestions on how to investigate further. Obviously having had the carbs apart 'technician error' is a likely part of the equation - but just what is beyond me at the moment.
Thnx
C
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In both instances it does require the adapter unit with switch to be the on-the-bench.
If the switch is very tight in the adapter then heat may be more useful than force to extract it. The bad scenario would be to shear the switch with a stub left in the adapter and evidently the adapters are irreplaceable. Heat could be applied by any means (e.g. cigarette lighter, torch) or immerse in hot cooking oil. Doesn't need to be super hot - heating up by 100 degrees C is 1% expansion which can be enough of a difference (for starters at least).
In the event of the flats on the switch showing early signs of rounding off I'd be inclined to hacksaw off the bulb of the switch so a socket can be applied. In the event of the AF being 'odd' or 'now indeterminate' a wall-drive socket (rather than hex or bi-hex) has a better chance of getting a purchase.
I can think of other more extreme methods for removing the switch from the adapter but hopefully such won't be required.
P.S. On refitting a new copper washer would be ideal or failing that to anneal the old one.
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I'd explore foreign bodies on the back on the needle valves as the first thing because it is very easy to get a definite diagnosis or at least be able to firmly exclude that diagnosis. Admittedly having to take the carbs off is a tad tedious and more so if one (!) has forgotten to have spare float chamber gaskets to hand if required.
That said, and having removed the needle valves, if one blows backward through the valves with an air duster or WD40 onto a piece of clean tissue paper clear evidence will be produced of whether or not they were obstructed (although rubber bits are usually pretty obvious just on inspection).
A related matter to is to ensure that the metal interconnecting fuel pipe between the carbs is not, itself, full of detritus which will then continually feed forward on to the back of the needle valves. Mine was full of debris and needed a thorough clean.
And when replacing use only new, top quality, ethanol proof, rubberhose from a reputable source.
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Problem resolved. Removed plug and there wasn't any significant deformation of either the male or female portions.
New plug fitted with PTFE. Now no leak.
Thanks
C
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While pondering your question I came across a report which might help with the 'is it worth it?' question.
The study, early seventies, made systematic variations to the four cylinder engine and measured the outcome under controlled conditions. One variation was to interchange a Stromberg carb with a pair of HS2s. The finding was a 10% uplift in power at 4000rpm and above with the SUs. But below 4000 there was no difference at all.
And that accords with my own experience of once having swapped a Spitfire Mk3 engine with all ancillaries into a 13/60. Gave just a little bit more 'perk' upper end but nothing transformative.
For myself the deciding factor would be the condition of the SUs. If they were in tip top condition (or I could readily afford to make them that way) then I'd do the swap because there's nothing to lose and a bit to gain. But a worn pair might never tune up properly so, overall, any theoretical advantages would be negated.
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Getting a cosy fit for the tailgate seal on GT6 can be a most trying experience and, as it turned out for me, expensive.
One thing is for sure; If you buy a part designated as specifically a GT6 tailgate seal from any of the Triumph suppliers it will most likely not fit. What you will get is some generic Top Seal that you could have bought from Baines for half the price.
What determines the correct seal is (of course!) the gap between the inner face of the gate and the lip on the aperture itself. This can vary a lot depending what, aesthetically, looks like the best fit in the context of the vehicle. For example, on my current GT6 the 'best fit' was to shim under the hinges by about 3mm to get a good line flowing from the roof panel.
In the end, and after £££s wasted, I found that a Top Seal with a 10mm upstand was best. But I only got there by buying a variety of one yard sections from various places with heights of 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and proceeding by trial and error 'till i got the best fit. Places I used included Baines, Woolies, East Kent Trim and Holden.
What is a 'cosy' fit on the seal can be assessed by fitting a test section and closing the 'gate with a sheet of A4 paper trapped in between. If the paper is loose then the seal is too thin, but if it can't be pulled out at all then that's too tight.
And, of course, GT6 tailgates should sit prim and proper in the aperture. 'Puffed out' upsets what is for me a genius bit of rear end styling.
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Ok. I'll proceed on the basis that a the female thread is recoverable and a new NPTF plug will produce a most satisfactory result. If the thread is mullered then I may well be back for further thoughts.
Thanks
C
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GT6 with 2500 big box.
Recon box installed and very nice it is too. Except it's weeping fluid from the drain plug. It's in very tight and I'm wondering what the remedy might be.
Does it 'look right' to you? Is a possibility that a BSPP plug has been persuaded into what is meant to be 3/8 (18) NP thread?
Is it appropriate to use either PTFE tape or a sealant (e.g Hylomar) when refitting?
Any suggestions would be much appreciated. My current idea is to remove the current plug and replace with a (known good) NOS 3/8 NP plug with a little Hylomar but I'd happily be advised otherwise.
Thanks in advance
C
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Dealing with seams. Hmmm. It's a very broad question. If one takes the very top end of restoration (e.g. having one's E-type done by Jaguar Heritage) then every seam will be picked apart and remedied to better than OE standard. Fine, if one's got the odd £150k to spend (!). Alternatively, say, one might have Daihatsu Copen worth 2 or 3 grand and only a limited budget to get it good enough to have a bit of fun for a while; In which case compromises must be made.
One can expect all seams put together 3 , 4, 5 decades to have some degree or corrosion in them and perhaps a useful guide is whether the seam is 'blown'; e.g. has got fatter due to internal pressure from rust with the spot welds becoming deeper and more pronounced as the metal tries to expand apart. Once 'blown' there is little option but to make a welded repair either sooner or later.
And, of course, not all seams are of equal significance. Take a GT6 for example. Any rust in the front roof seam (to the screen surround) requires a full repair since any spread onto the roof will look terrible. Conversely, rust in the seams on the tailgate can be todged over with seam sealant or filler and can be out of sight/out of mind for reasonable number of years.
I'd be interested to know how others approach this but for myself I have two tactics for dealing with 'marginal' situations where a welded repair is not cost-effective but the aim is to protect the seam for longer:
1) Take Bondaprimer, dilute with standard thinners to get a watery consistency, then work into the seam repeatedly with a fine brush
and/or
2) Saturate the seam with WD40 or similar. Then after a few minutes flashing off follow up with a very thin wax (e.g. Supertrol, Dinitrol ML) that has good creeping properties. NOT, as I've found to my cost, using a heavy wax (e.g. Waxoyl) which won't creep and by sitting on top of the seam does more to seal water in, rather than sealing it out.
I suppose my only other thought is not to do things which make the situation worse. I have my hands on a VW camper where the PO put carpet underlay all over the interior of the vehicle and it became a damp sponge, blocked all the drain holes and prevented any air circulation. Result sadly predictable!
Spitfire 1500 Body Sticker Placement Information Requested
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Unlikely that Triumph ever fixed the decals in a truly standardised position so what I have is a bit different.
For the boot:
If ‘A’ is form the corner of the ‘E’ then I have 2.75 inches.
Id ‘B’ is from ‘0’ going downward then I have 2 and 3/16the inches
But in addition the text is slightly tilted such that a line dropped for ‘1’ is 2 and 1/16th inches to the egde of the lid
Bonnet
If A is from the ‘e’ going laterally then I have 1 and 5/8th inches.
If B if from the ‘e’ going down (forward) the curve measures 5 and 1/8th inches
C from the ‘s’ going down: I have 5 and 7/8th inches