chrishawley
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Posts posted by chrishawley
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My question here is, in practice, what is the best approach to adjusting the ride height on the front suspension.
So: Vehicle is in a state where I have started giving it initial shakedowns up and down the unmetalled track. I note limited clearance between the lip of the front wheel arches and the tyre. While I don't have any official measurements for what he lip to ground height should be (or lip to tyre) I'm working on the basis that if one can slide the palm of one's hand in then that's about what it would have been OE. So on that basis an extra half inch might be my initial aim and see how it looks from there.
Seems like I have three options: 1) Spacer between upper spring pan and turret, 2) spacer on lower spring pan and 3) ride and height adjustable shocks (£££s!!).
Based on the experience of others, what's the best route to go down in the first instance? I'm also not clear on the geometry of spacers. If I put in (say) a 0.5 inch spacer does that raise the body height by (what is the effective) diagonal thickness of the spacer e.g 0.7 inch or so?
Front setup is entirely standard 155/80/r13 on 4.5J. Correct springs (Fitchetts) and generic shocks. Nothing moded. Not shimmed for camber yet. Tracking about 1/16 toe in at present (kerb condition)
Of course, there's the rear susp to consider. That has it's own issues. Still sitting on the high(ish) side despite reusing the old spring and with a one inch spacer but I waiting to see how much that'll settle during shakedowns.
Any opinions general or specific on all of the above would be much appreciated.
Thanks
C
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Terry, some q-light photos of my attempt with the outer weatherstrip.
C
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Every day is a learning day! Having gone considerable effort, not to mention expense, to refurb my CDSEs none of the running issues were resolved. Here's how to replicate my experience with bonus points if you can get all the listed items to happen at once, such as I did.
1) Ensure that the 'y' fuel pipe between the carbs is as full as possible with rust, detritus and bits of rubber.
2) Loosen the hose for the servo on the inlet manifold to give a discreet air leak
3) To further increase air leakage make a long split in the rubber end connector for the vacuum advance
4) Then ensure that the breather pipes are old and stiff and don't seal properly. Avoid the use of hose clips as they might make things better.
5) Remove a section of the perimeter of the paper gasket between the carb heat insulator and the inlet manifold. Will also work by removing a chunk of the outer gasket but better to have the problem in the gasket which is not so readily inspected.
6) When refitting the y-piece having filled it with crud (see #1 above) mount it on the piss so that the rubber connectors are distorted and collapse on the inside.
I award myself the wooden spoon for putting hand in pocket before putting brain in gear!
P.S. yup, it's runs nicely now.
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Fitting up these doors can be a most trying experience. There is no prescribed sequence but my way is as follows:
1) Fit the window winder mechanism noting for later reference how much adjustment is available in relation to the two setscrews that hold the center triangular mounting.
2) Fit door handles. locks and associated parts. Adjust for correct operation.
3) Fit quarterlight assembly with associated brackets (having first checked that felt runner is good). Using the many adjusting points lightly nip up with a correct gap to the windscreen frame.
4) Insert drop glass. Work running channel on to the wheels on the lift mechanism.
5) Insert rear drop glass runner (again checking that the felt is good).
6) It's now necessary to, with great patience, repeatedly adjust the quarterlight assembly, the glass and the rear runner to achieve nice running of the glass with everything in a good position with glass both raised and lowered.
7) Now to the glazing /weatherstrips. The 'book' method is to work from the outside of the door with the glass in situ using a hooked tool to pull the strips and their clips upwards onto the lips on the door skin. In practice this is not possible because most aftermarket strips are fatter than the originals.
7b) So: Note the position of the rear glass runner that was previously obtained. Remove runner. Work glass off the wheels of the lift mechanism and let rest in bottom of the door. The (outer) weatherstrip may need to be trimmed to length so that it is just the full length of the door. Where it overlaps the quaterlight assembly it may need to be skinnied down to give the correct appearance. Place in position and push on clips with thumb from inside the door (not easy). The standard clips supplied may not fit depending on the thickness of the rubber. May need to source generic alternative.
7c) Much the same for the inner (felt) glazing strip. This only goes partway along the length of the door as far as the rear of the q-light assembly. Trim to length a/r. This time though put the clips on the strip first and then thumb in to position from inside the door. BUT: If your vehicle has the vinyl door capping this must be installed before fitting the inner glazing strip.
8 ) Put drop glass back on its wheels. Re-attach rear glass runner into former position. Wind glass up and assess position. Highly likely that another round of adjustment at all points will be required (tiresome).
9) Lastly install the stops to control upper and lower range of travel of the drop glass. The large felt covered bottom stops are pretty obvious. Not so obvious are the either two or four l-shaped brackets (held by No. 10 unf setscrews) which limit the movement of the arms of the window lift mechanism. Often go missing. The one which blocks the upward movement of the glass is crucial as without it the glass will push on the q-light frame upsetting the previously hard won adjustment.
Hope I've not missed too much out. In theory fitting up these doors is a simple procedure; In practice a great deal of trial and error is involved.
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I've been through dozens of power tools and similarly the people with whom I work. The story is always the same: Penny pinching on tools and consumables is never cost-effective over the long run. The 'safe bets' are the respected brands: DeWalt, Hikoki (Hitahci), Bosch, Makita (leaving aside the seriously high end super expensive brands)
My neighbour gave me (off the record) how it works with the cheapie brands (e.g. Silverline). The sellers (e.g Toolstation) know full well that about one fifth of units will fail prematurely. But they also know that a large proportion of customers can't be bothered to bring the defective unit back for refund or replacement. As a business model that's genius!!!
On AVERAGE the best outcome is spending to get the best one can afford in the first place.
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I know 50% of the answer. The vent comes off the filler neck, does a broad inverted 'u' loop in the wing space then goes down and then across the boot floor (under the fuel tank) to exit via a right angled rubber piece at the front, center, of the boot floor which is approximately the front right hand corner of the fuel tank. Not to forget a diaphragm grommet to seal it off.
Not so sure about the drain tube. But mine comes straight down from the neck to exit vertically downward (with grommet) in extreme front and left corner of the boot floor.
Of course any 'sensible' position would do but authentic is good as well!
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Thanks. Hole punch seems to be the way to go. Regret piggy bank won't run to plasma cutter!
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To make some heat shields I need to cut some nice 32 holes in a sheet of 1.0mm stainless. So, unwisely, set to on an off-cut of unknown grade.
Also, unwisely, I used my cheapie Screwfix hole saw without thinking about respective hardness of tool and material. This cheapie (presumably high carbon steel?) has performed well on mild steel but in this instance all I ended up with was heat (+++), and erroded teeth (the tool that is, not me) after the first hole.
I'd appreciate any advice around this matter. For example would a proper bi-metal hole saw do better (e.g. Starrett, Bosch) or would it be more cost effective to use a tungsten carbide tool (e.g. Ruko)? I'd generally assumed that SS is 'about twice as hard' as mild steel but perhaps that's major underestimate of the differences across the various grades of stainless.
As ever, any thoughts appreciated.
C
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Ok. That seems pretty definitive that the shaft and hub assembly are one and the same. Thanks and I'll proceed accordingly.
C
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GT6 Mk3 with roto.
Due to operator suboptimality ('cock up') I'm going to have to re-do the drive shafts in my GT6. I have a collection of roto shafts/hubs some from Vitesse some from GT6. But I don't know which is which.
AFAIK they should be fully interchangeable. Although the Vitesse has a narrower track than the GT6 this is due to chassis dimensions not the drive units themselves.
I'd appreciate advice to confirm (or disconfirm) that I could use the best of the units irrespective of whether they were originally V or G.
Any advice on this point?
Many thanks in advance
C
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This is completely solvable! Been there and done it (several times). Because this is a recurring problem with GT6s I posted a procedure for attaching the venting complete with photos. Can't re-post right now because the files are on my other computer which I've not got with me at the moment. But should be in the archive under search terms 'bodywork' , 'GT6', 'vent', 'ducting'.
If it can't be found let me know and I can re-post later on.
If you need a photo of the NS vent freshly fitted I could send you one but that would have to be tomorrow.
Just to check a) that you do have the GT6 heater box and not a Spitfire one which lacks the two bottom outlets b) and that you have the correct bits for attachment to the parcel shelf - namely the hoop (like a Terry clip) that goes round the eyeball assembly and the special angled bracket which attaches to 'hoop' to the rail on the shelf - this bracket is handed but left and right are easily mixed up.
The Canley picture from the parts manual is misleading because it implies that the footwell eyeball points down to the ground. Correct is more like 45 degrees to the left of the car and 45 degrees toward the rear.
This can definitely be sorted out! Let me know if you need me to repost.
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Super. Thanks. TCs were absolutely shot as predicted. Also note that I'm losing oil from the rear dashpot. So looks like a full scale strip/rebuild is in order. But I'm a lot further forward than I was so thanks for the advice.
Cheers
C
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Thank you. Much appreciated as always.
I'll cross check the timing static now I know there's a method but it looks like 8BTDC idle on the strobe has got me in the right area (unlike 'other advice' which had me at 4ATDC dynamic at idle).
Next step carbs. Is your preference to shut down the TempComps and leave them that way permanently? Or just to shut them down to establish a better state of tune and then set them up correctly again?
Cheers
C
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I know this problem from a GT6 perspective, which is to say that the leading edge of the drop glass runs of at an angle to the desired line. The solution was eventually found by examining the window lift mechanism. The center, triangular piece held by two bolts, has leeway for a certain amount of adjustment allowing the glass to be tilted. Adjusting this tilt corrected the problem on the GT6.
I know Spit lift mechanism is not exactly the same as GT6 but it might be worth looking at this to see if the same principle applies.
Apart from being adjustable the other thing about the forward and rear glass channels is the condition of the felt running strips. Again speaking from GT6 experience old/worn felts don't control the movement of the glass sufficiently and some replacement felts are too fat so the glass doesn't run freely or correctly.
I can provide measurements off my neverbeenwelded Spit if you need. Do message me if I can help with this.
C
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Addendum to prev post.
Only just occurred to me that that the electronic module is getting its power feed piggybacked off the + terminal of the coil. (red wire) This may well mark out that unit as requiring a 12v power feed - which may be why that ballast resistor was removed in the first place. In which case the power pick up the EM would need to be from the 'in' side of a ballast resistor (12v) rather than the + ve of the coil which would now only have 6v.
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If you've got two wires coming out of the loom then presumably this is an early GT6 with (or did have) the external ballast resistor. One wire should be white (to the 'in' side of the resistor) and the other should be white/yellow (to the 'out' side of the resistor). Later GT6s has resistance wire built into the loom so there's only one wire, white/yellow, going to the coil.
The coil for a ballasted system is designed to run on 6 volts and has a resistance across the primary windings of approx 1.5 ohms
The coil for a non ballasted system is designed to run on 12 v and has a resistance across the primary windings of approx 3 ohms
If the coil is getting silly hot then the setup maybe feeding 12v to a coil intended for a ballasted setup which ought only to be receiving only 6v.
Proceed with confidence - there's no potential for doing any damage here.
For myself I would
* Check voltage at white wire to be 12v (i.e. not been messed around with by PO). White/yellow wire will only have volatge when engine cranking)
• Check ohms across coil. If 1.5 ohm then install ballast resistor as a necessity. If 3.0 ohms the either a) leave as is, as a non-ballasted system or b) replace with correct coil and install ballast resistor.
By a, modest, margin ballasted systems are better than non-ballasted. Somewhat better starting under cold cranking conditions and more reliable spark at high revs due to lower inductance. But it's not big a deal; there's plenty of pre 1970 cars run perfectly nicely on non-ballasted systems.
P.S, If installing a BR the two wires need to be the right way round on the resistor otherwise the resistor will be bypassed and it'll be 12 v all the time.
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Previous help through the Forum got me in the right direction regarding ignition timing. With the car nearly ready to hit the road I trying to firm up on something a bit more precise. Additional 'advice' in the meantime (not TSSC) has been conflicting.
Current situ':
GT6 with 2500 'MM' prefix engine with the softest of the cams
Lucas distributor (not sure which of the four) with accuspark
Stromberg 150 CDSEs - from a 2000 - fitted unmodified and seem fine. Carb balance good, mixture roughly in the right place
Engine starts, idles and revs nicely. Not driven yet.
ROM says 8 or 10 degrees BTDC static for an MM engine. But I can't do static because the accuspark. So...I've tried 8 degrees BTDC with strobe on the supposition (? correct) that below 900rpm the centrifugal will be giving negligible advance and the dynamic advance will be the same as the static. From there if retard the ignition to say 6 degrees BTDC the idle revs drop off quite sharply. If I advance further to say 12 BTDC revs don't increase but the engine begins to fluff.
So does that add up to 8 BTDC (dynamic, idle, vac off)) being about the spot to go for?
My other supposition is that I can't really get optimum settings until it's on the road; perhaps using the vernier to tweak it up to the first point of pinking and then adjusting back from there.
I'd really appreciate some reality checking here so thanks in advance.
C
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Recently had a tailgate glass seal from Paddocks. Absolutely fine. It looks as though the outer face of the seal doesn't sit flat enough in the corners but checking against an unmnolested original that is in fact correct.
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Blind rivets ('pop rivets') are the appropriate fastener for this application. Threaded fasteners for the male part of the popper is perfectly feasible where there is easy access to both sides of the job. But for the doors trying to get nuts on the inside could entail hours of misery and bleeding knuckles.
So, what isn't working?
a) Blind rivets most commonly come in 1/32 inch diameter intervals measured in metric e.g. 2.4mm, 3.2mm 4.0mm. One size too small doesn't look like much of a difference in the hand but it's the difference between working and not working. I would not trust Rimmers to send the right size rivet.
b) The rivet should be a loose interference fit or very slight clearance fit in the hole in the fixed part of the work (bodywork in this case). If the rivet is loose in the hole it will tend to pull through rather than pulling up tight.
c) Poppers may have been drilled out a number of the times over the life of a vehicle and thus the holes have gone oversize. If the next size (diameter) up rivet can't be used as a substitute then options include i) use a rivet backing washer (readily available) on the inside of the fixed part where there is access. ii) use a peel or 'peeling' blind rivet where access is not possible: When compressed the shank deforms like the petals of a flower giving support around an otherwise oversize hole. Not so easy to get hold of but Spaldings do them.
Screwfix do an very good mixed pack of 900 (plain) blind rivets for £15. Various diameters and lengths covering pretty much everything a Triumph owner could want.
Cheers
C
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Could I ask for some help with this simple inquiry?
The task in hand is to refit the door cards and the drop glass winder handle. I've got the bits (handle, pin, escutcheon, conical spring and small circular foam seal) but can't deduce from the parts book the correct order/position of fitting. Does the spring go behind the door card and if so is it pointy end in or out? Similarly, where does the foamy seal fit in relation to everything else.
Hardly a crucial matter but any tips to get this 'just so' would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
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I imagine this has been well discussed previously. But here goes:
While pondering whether to declare the Spitfire 1500 MOT exempt the MOT fell due. So I had it done. During the process of testing one rear brake showed inadequate braking and then a further push of the pedal locked the brake full on. Having got the car home the problems were self-evident; seized wheel cylinder and incorrectly fitted shoes. Duly fixed.
The MOT was definitely worth it.
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Spitfire 1500 with single rail, overdrive, box. Possibly originally a Dolomite box.
Issue is this: Box is making a fizzy/rumbly noise at idle which disappears when clutch is depressed. So I'm assuming likely cause is input shaft front bearing. Probably go for an exchange-recon box.
Gearbox in and out no problem for me. But removing and replacing the o.d. unit is not something I've ever done. I messed up badly when replacing the o.d. on my GT6 and had give the whole assembly to a specialist to make good.
Haynes makes the process sound easy peasy. But what in practice are the likely obstacles to trouble free removal and replacement? Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thnx
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Leading the channel. What I did was:
• Used a low melting point solder i.e. body solder
• Break into crumbs, place in channel and melt in with torch until channel full to brim
• Once cool (ish) bend to shape in the pre-formed..errr.. former.
• Melt out solder into mash pot for future re-use
• Channel now rusty, so dipped in hydrochloric acid, wash, then Jenolite. Painted a/r.
I'll get that bit of of seal off to you, at least that's something definite to work from.
Regs
C
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Had a rootle around and here's some further info
• The OE length of the seal was 35 inches as supplied. But the fitted length is shorter than that on later models
• See photos: The seal is 1/4 inch at its root and 3/8th at base which makes the external width of the channel approx 7/16th.
After much searching I eventually found some preformed channel from a Morris Minor which could then be adapted to GT6 purposes. It's the 'lower door seal retaining channel'. Can't remember who was the supplier though. To bend it to shape I made a curved jig then filled the channel with lead which allowed it to be bent without collapsing.
Less good news on the rubber. I've only got enough for one length. But if one is better than nothing I could pop it in the post. Just let me know your details (via a message, not in the posting) and I'll do it.
Hope this gets you a bit further forward.
Cheers
Chris
Body seams
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Dealing with seams. Hmmm. It's a very broad question. If one takes the very top end of restoration (e.g. having one's E-type done by Jaguar Heritage) then every seam will be picked apart and remedied to better than OE standard. Fine, if one's got the odd £150k to spend (!). Alternatively, say, one might have Daihatsu Copen worth 2 or 3 grand and only a limited budget to get it good enough to have a bit of fun for a while; In which case compromises must be made.
One can expect all seams put together 3 , 4, 5 decades to have some degree or corrosion in them and perhaps a useful guide is whether the seam is 'blown'; e.g. has got fatter due to internal pressure from rust with the spot welds becoming deeper and more pronounced as the metal tries to expand apart. Once 'blown' there is little option but to make a welded repair either sooner or later.
And, of course, not all seams are of equal significance. Take a GT6 for example. Any rust in the front roof seam (to the screen surround) requires a full repair since any spread onto the roof will look terrible. Conversely, rust in the seams on the tailgate can be todged over with seam sealant or filler and can be out of sight/out of mind for reasonable number of years.
I'd be interested to know how others approach this but for myself I have two tactics for dealing with 'marginal' situations where a welded repair is not cost-effective but the aim is to protect the seam for longer:
1) Take Bondaprimer, dilute with standard thinners to get a watery consistency, then work into the seam repeatedly with a fine brush
and/or
2) Saturate the seam with WD40 or similar. Then after a few minutes flashing off follow up with a very thin wax (e.g. Supertrol, Dinitrol ML) that has good creeping properties. NOT, as I've found to my cost, using a heavy wax (e.g. Waxoyl) which won't creep and by sitting on top of the seam does more to seal water in, rather than sealing it out.
I suppose my only other thought is not to do things which make the situation worse. I have my hands on a VW camper where the PO put carpet underlay all over the interior of the vehicle and it became a damp sponge, blocked all the drain holes and prevented any air circulation. Result sadly predictable!