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Darren Groves

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Everything posted by Darren Groves

  1. Problem sorted....finally got the butterfly to sit correctly, idles nice now....👍
  2. Pretty sure, doesn't take much of a gap around the throttle disc to bring up the revs. I did spray easy start around the mating faces with no change in revs. Cheers
  3. Hi Dave, Have done many of these over the years, this is how I fit them and I retried again yesterday, but it just wouldn't sit right. I ran out of time last night, so will have another bash on Sunday when I have a day off. Cheers
  4. Backed off the idle and fast idle screws to ensure no interference....will get it on the bench on Sunday to see what's happening.... Cheers
  5. Haha....yeah, it's definitely in the right way. I think if you try them the wrong way, the disc is a long way off closing. Darren
  6. Hi All, Started my Spitfire MK4 for the first time, full engine rebuild etc..... Started fine but can't get the idle down, the front carb is pulling in too much air even though idle screw fully wound out. Started to investigate and it was pretty obvious what the issue was (see pic). In the fully closed closed position the throttle disc isn't a great fit, so swapped with the throttle disc with the other carb exactly the same...so regardless of which throttle disc I use the problem stays with the front carb. The carbs were fully rebuilt by me last year, so the discs, spindles etc. were all replaced with new items from Burlen. I rebuilt a fair few HS2's in the past, but never had a disc not fit well....any tips of tricks? Replacement Carb Body?...there is one on eBay at the moment. Cheers Darren
  7. The Stud Plate (Part no. 618505) isn't available from any supplier. Anyone come up with an alternative method to fix the dash or found something similar that works? D.
  8. Yep, touching. I could lower the tank a few mm if I really tried, but not enough. OK, will trim off the filler neck, just thought they might be supplied to the correct application.....
  9. I fitted my new fuel tank today in to my MKIV Spitfire, is it a known thing that the filler necks are too long? Pic 1 shows the lowest the filler cap will sit when touching the top of the tanks filler neck, pic 2 shows the height....I could just shorten the tanks neck, but thought I'd ask the question in case I'm missing something obvious. Unfortunately I don't have the old tank to compare.
  10. I'm close to putting the body back on the chassis on my MK4 Spitfire and wondered if at the mounting points circled in red, should there be anything between body & chassis? Thanks Darren
  11. I have, as mentioned in my original post. Cheers
  12. Was changed from original type to solid state one.
  13. Will try the red one out of my Spitty tomorrow....
  14. The temp goes up normally and peaks at the high reading, no rapid changes.
  15. You get heat in the car and the hoses to and from the heater valve are hot. The filler is quite a bit lower than the highest point of the top hose and thermostat housing, so that was more of a concern. There are no leaks and the rad maintains it's level fine. The car was running a bit too rich when it came in so we have weakened off a bit, but that's had no impact on the temp reading.
  16. Right from the start I have felt it was a gauge reading high, but the difference in temps at the top and the bottom of the rad seemed odd. The 2 senders I have used on it are black near the spade connector, but the one in my Spitfire project is red...may try that one to see if the colour does actually mean something.
  17. Thanks Clive...thought that to be the case.
  18. Trial fitting the Semi-Sport exhaust on my MK4 Spitfire with the fitting kit from the club shop (body isn't on the car yet)...are there only 2 mounting points, one from the Diff carrier and the other from the boot floor? Also the hanger from the diff carrier seems a bit low (see pic), is this as it should be or should it be higher? Darren
  19. 2L MK1 Vitesse recently purchased (not by me) and the temp gauge reads around 2/3 to 3/4 when up to normal temp. Owner has had radiator recored, fitted new 82° Thermostat, temp sender, hoses, heater valve and flushed rest of waterways but still reads hot. It's come to me to have a variety of jobs done, but to look at this also. The engine bay didn't seem particularly hot, so far we have tried alternative Thermostat, Temp Sender, & gauge. Replaced voltage stabiliser. The top hose gets warm, but the bottom hose is noticeably cooler. I've used a infrared thermometer and it confirms the top hose & top of radiator is much warmer that the bottom hose and bottom of radiator. Hoses into and out of Smith's Heater Valve are hot and you get heat inside the car. Took off the water pump expecting to see it in poor condition, but that looked in good shape. When changing the thermostat, there was no water in the top hose, the natural water level is at the thermostat. This is a thing in both Herald & Vitesse as the radiator filler cap is lower that the highest point of the cooling system, so I did raise the front and run with the cap off and fill as much as I could, but again no difference. Am I missing something obvious here or is there anything else worth looking at? Darren
  20. Thanks for the replies Mike, but unfortunately this didn't work....
  21. Hi Roger, Yes, they self park but wiring is quite different between the single and two speed motors.... Darren
  22. Hi Roger, Thanks for the reply but not sure it's that simple....the only connections on a switch on a single speed wiper set-up is a wire from the motor and then a wire to earth on the other side of the switch, all the switch does is provide the earth. There is no live to the switch as per the 2 speed motor and on a single speed one what would go to the 'SW' terminal on the Smart Screen? The Club Shop get these units from the MGOC, they say it can be done but don't know how and the guy that makes them does it in his spare time and doesn't reply to emails or answer his telephone.... Cheers Darren
  23. Has anyone fitted the Smart Screen Intermittent Wiper unit to a DR3A single speed wiper motor? Wiring diagram supplied is only for a two speed motor (below).
  24. Got the radiator back yesterday and refitted it, now the top hose is much better. So glad I went this route rather than a universal flexi-hose.
  25. Thanks, I guessed it was 1/4" given my Herald was (before EFI). I was only a little unsure as the outlet from the pipe is 5/16". The chassis pipe clips listed on Canleys & Rimmers were for 1/4" so will stick to that. Cheers
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