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Darren Groves

TSSC AO
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Darren Groves last won the day on May 15 2020

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About Darren Groves

  • Birthday 07/02/1966

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  • Website URL
    http://www.triumphherald1360.co.uk/

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ashwater, Devon.
  • Cars Owned
    VW Beetle, VW Passat, Ford Capri, Ford Cortina, Ford XR3, Suzuki Vitara, Ford XR3i, Ford Escort, Ford Puma, Mercedes SLK, Ford Poplar 100E, Triumph Herald 13/60.

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  1. Thanks for the replies above, I haven't had much of a chance to look at the issue. Since I posted the above I had just wired the main switch direct to the motor and bypassing the park switch, the motor then worked fine (apart from it won't park of course), so I know the main switch and the actual motor are fine. I have tried 3 new park switches all from different suppliers, they all give the same result which is I cannot turn off the wipers. With the last park switch I bought I just used it as a connector, so not connected to the wiper motor body, by doing this I can manual depress the pin and the wipers stop immediately. So the park switch is doing what it's supposed to but just not when it's in position. So the problem is that the either the pin on the park switch is marginally too short and/or the lobe on the gear needs to be marginally higher so the when the two meet the pin is raised high enough to earth the brush and stop the motor. I have measured the length of the pin and how recessed the lobe is and that tells me they are only just touching, but not enough to depress the pin adequately. The wiper drive gear was new a couple of years ago and has had a minimal use, there's no sign of wear on the lobe so I see little point replacing that and clearly all the park switches are the same, so the only solution I can see is to find a way of elongating the pin on the park switch or raising the height of the lobe on the drive gear. If anyone has any ideas on how to do either I'd be very grateful. Thanks.
  2. Since I got the Spitfire back on the road last year, I've been struggling with the wipers. Brand new wiper motor, home made loom and this circuit has its own fuse. Initially all worked fine. Symptoms were that I'd lose low speed, high speed would be fine but they also wouldn't park. Or sometimes the fuse would blow. If I pulled the connector from the park switch squirted with WD40 or electrical contact cleaner and it would start working again. By wiggling the park switch I can recreate anything from them working correctly to the symptoms above, so assumed this was the issue and bought a replacement. I fitted that today and I get both speeds working fine, no blowing fuses, but the wipers won't turn off.... Any ideas? Two Park switches with different faults maybe?
  3. First thing I checked, but seem soft and pliable....
  4. When say stronger spring, you mean the main one to the diaphragm? Where would I even get one from as Powertune don't seem to exist anywhere, can't seem to find out who actually makes these units. I did unclamp the back of the unit, but didn't seem any obvious way to remove the diaphragm so I could look at the pushrod etc. does it just pull out as it didn't feel like it wanted to.
  5. That won't be the issue here as it was effectively a new unit, but bought several years ago so no receipt and can't even remember where I bought it....🙄
  6. Thanks for the replies....I'll make sure I vent the battery, I am going to relocate the original battery bracketry into the boot, but will use the quick release battery connectors (see pic) to stop any chance of something shorting between the terminals.
  7. The Powertune brake servo on my Spitfire has a sticky piston on the air control valve (see pic), which results in the brakes locking on even without the pedal depressed. Anyone else had this issue and managed to successfully fix it?
  8. Just reading this old thread as I'm going to be moving my Herald battery to the boot. A few questions What size cable should be used, 110 or 170amp? Should I run the earth to the front as well or to a point on the body/chassis at the rear? Does the battery have to be in a box, can I just reuse the battery bracket that I've removed from the bulkhead? Thank you!
  9. Problem sorted....finally got the butterfly to sit correctly, idles nice now....👍
  10. Pretty sure, doesn't take much of a gap around the throttle disc to bring up the revs. I did spray easy start around the mating faces with no change in revs. Cheers
  11. Hi Dave, Have done many of these over the years, this is how I fit them and I retried again yesterday, but it just wouldn't sit right. I ran out of time last night, so will have another bash on Sunday when I have a day off. Cheers
  12. Backed off the idle and fast idle screws to ensure no interference....will get it on the bench on Sunday to see what's happening.... Cheers
  13. Haha....yeah, it's definitely in the right way. I think if you try them the wrong way, the disc is a long way off closing. Darren
  14. Hi All, Started my Spitfire MK4 for the first time, full engine rebuild etc..... Started fine but can't get the idle down, the front carb is pulling in too much air even though idle screw fully wound out. Started to investigate and it was pretty obvious what the issue was (see pic). In the fully closed closed position the throttle disc isn't a great fit, so swapped with the throttle disc with the other carb exactly the same...so regardless of which throttle disc I use the problem stays with the front carb. The carbs were fully rebuilt by me last year, so the discs, spindles etc. were all replaced with new items from Burlen. I rebuilt a fair few HS2's in the past, but never had a disc not fit well....any tips of tricks? Replacement Carb Body?...there is one on eBay at the moment. Cheers Darren
  15. The Stud Plate (Part no. 618505) isn't available from any supplier. Anyone come up with an alternative method to fix the dash or found something similar that works? D.
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