Jump to content

Roger K

Forum User
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    579

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Roger K

  1. Mk2 Engine Rebuild going into a Mk1 GT6 by a novice!

    in Engine

    Posted

    The bore in the photo looks to be scored to me, unless it's an artefact.

    Have you checked the crank journals with a mic?  The shells don't look too bad, but it's worth checking properly.  And yes, see what the mains look like.

    I like the 'side-mount' on the engine stand - nice idea, means you can actually do the flywheel and clutch on the stand for once!  Not seen that before....

     

  4. Mk2 Engine Rebuild going into a Mk1 GT6 by a novice!

    in Engine

    Posted

    Just now, NonMember said:

    I don't think johny was talking about the original fitment but rather what he had re-drilled and tapped his to because of stripped threads. The original were 5/16" UNF

    Ah, OK, that makes sense.  Personally I'd helicoil back to 5/16 UNF, as I'd soon forget the metric change had been made.  That said, it's not a spanner issue as they're panhead screws, so I guess it really doesn't make much difference.

  5. Mk2 Engine Rebuild going into a Mk1 GT6 by a novice!

    in Engine

    Posted

    21 hours ago, johny said:

    Out of interest: M10x1.5 and length 16mm

    I haven't got into my engine yet, that comes early next year - but before I do, are you sure on that bolt size?  I'm surprised that a sixties UK block would have metric fasteners.

    In this instance, unless I was about to do an engine strip-down I would helicoil the threads in situ.  Easy enough, and will end up stronger than the original.  Why did Triumph use an aluminium piece here originally rather than steel, I wonder?

  7. GT6 Dampers

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    I have Konis for mine, but can't report on performance as it's still in bits.  However I have Konis on my other classics, and they are definitely the best.

    It's worth mentioning that yes, they are adjustable - but not like the others (Spax, Gaz etc.). The adjustability on Konis is purely to allow for a drop off in performance as they get older.  They have to be taken off the car to adjust.  I've never had to replace a set, they last forever.

    Roger

    • Like 1

  8. Sliding prop joint

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    The prop sliding joint does so little because the diff is mounted to the frame, unlike a live rear axle where it can move around a lot with torque reaction etc.

    I prefer to use a specific spline grease in these joints, such as a molybdenum grease or graphite grease.  I've seen some suggest Copaslip or other copper 'grease' - this is not a lubricant and I wouldn't use it anywhere except to stop seizure due to corrosion.

  9. Spitfire 1500 diff in GT6?

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    8 minutes ago, Gully said:

    Or if you know the TPM for the 3.89 ratio diff and also for the 3.27 diff (it's written on the different speedos) you can interpolate what you need for the 3.63 - which is what I did to get the 1075 TPM. I gave that info to Speedy Cables, they worked to that and it's correct.

    Gully

    That's fine - I'll get Andy on it for me!

    Thanks

    Roger

  11. Spitfire 1500 diff in GT6?

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    7 hours ago, Gully said:

    When I had my 3.27 ratio diff replaced with a 3.63 I got Speedy Cables to recalibrate my speedo to 1075 TPM, which appears to be spot on against the Sat Nav.

    Gully

    Do you find the ratios OK for motorway driving as well as twisty bits with the 3.63 and o/d?  What would you be able to do for a couple of hours on a French autoroute - 75-80?

  12. Spitfire 1500 diff in GT6?

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    That, Pete, is pretty much how Speedycables ask you to check what calibration you want.  Not quite as complex, though, they just ask for a chalk mark on the tyre and a card pointer and disc on the cable, and count how many turns of the pointer for a set number of rotations of the tyre.  They do the maths, otherwise just as you say.

  22. Late GT6 wheel cylinders

    in Braking System

    Posted

    Thanks Chris, I have sourced some 3/4" cylinders to use so should be OK.

    With regard to size, given that a set amount of fluid is pumped to the rear brakes when the pedal is pressed, I would expect smaller pistons to move further for the same brake application - so it would make sense that your 3/4" cylinders might lock up the rear brakes early, which (if excessive) could definitely be a safety issue.  Hence the factory's fitment of 7/8", to effectively lessen the rear braking effect.  I think fitting the largest option currently available is the best solution.  Some suppliers are sending 5/8" cylinders out for late GT6s, which could make the brake balance worse.

  25. Late GT6 wheel cylinders

    in Braking System

    Posted · Edited by Roger K
    Did more research!

    Ah...

    The next question is, are the manual adjuster cylinders available in 7/8"?  - and can they be adjusted with the drums on?  I'm guessing from your post, Doug, that they're not.... I can't see how you could adjust brake shoes accurately without a snail cam arrangement, accessible with the drum on.  Tighten up, back off two clicks...

    edit - I see, need to change the lot - backplates, shoes, drums, cylinders and adjusters.  The problem then is that I'm restricted to 1.25" shoes instead of 1.5", and still only 3/4" piston diameter.  Quite apart from the drop in rear braking power this would give against the front servo'd system, I don't know if the extra 0.25" would create clearance problems with the drum fitment on the hub against the backplate, or the longer driveshafts etc. - so it could turn into an expensive experiment.  I'll leave it as it is for now, with the 3/4" auto-adjust cylinders, and see how I go.

×
×
  • Create New...