Tom

Hydraulic punch, like it! Bush was also a loose fit in the crank contributing to slop! Annoying as nothing can be fitted until it arrives.

Looks like I missed something...... I turned up a tool to line up the friction plate. The end of the spigot is pretty much bang on 12mm, when I put this in the spigot support bush in the end of the crank it was like chucking a sausage up Oxford street! Seems my spigot bush is extremely worn out, measures at around 13.5mm, I'm presuming it should be a snug fit on the end of the gearbox input spigot. I wonder if this was one of the causes of the judder and broken spring in the friction plate?

No worries Pete. But something else is holding me up. According to my factory manual the front of the trunnion should sit 2.625 inches from the end of the drive shaft. I have set it to that distance and the other end of the trunnion is nowhere near the flinger and the hub with the wheel studs hits the ball bearing before it locates on the taper?? Very confusing, is the 2.625 dimension correct? or have I unknowingly got weird driveshafts?

Thanks Pete, I did think that they were not huge load bearers but it's reassuring to hear it from another ( more knowledgeable ) person. I would think the ball race does 95% of the work, very strange design, I wonder why Triumph did not fit a smaller ball race rather than relying on the shaft as a bearing surface? I would have thought it would need case hardening and grinding in that area too so popping a ball race there would have probably been cheaper...odd? I suppose our cars are much more cossetted than they were when they were daily slogs, it will be greased on a regular basis and not cover large distances so hopefully it will last a while. Tom.

Hello, again. moved onto rear hub rebuilds. I have the hubs apart and rebuild kits. Only thing niggling me is some slight pitting on the surface of one of the drive shafts where the needle bearing runs. I took these hubs apart a few years ago all the bearings seemed pretty good to be honest but it seems silly not to replace them now they're apart. About six months before I pulled the hubs I had put new UJ's in. So every thing should be spot on other than the slight pitting on one shaft. Should I not worry too much and just get them back together? I should image most Heralds out there are running around with slightly worn needle bearing surfaces?

OK Pete, I did wonder if the material used should deform only slightly at the bolt face friction would be lost, loctite it is!!

I did see Rimmers were selling stretch bolts but I figured reusing the old ones with some remade locking tabs would be fine?

Hello again Fellas, been distracted for a few days as my daughter wanted a new chicken coop and run building!! Back on the Herald tomorrow, I going to put the flywheel, new clutch ( managed to get a 9 spring one Canley ) gearbox and starter motor in tomorrow. I've deglazed the flywheel, I'll turn a clutch centering tool tonight to line up the friction plate. I have two new rear gearbox mounts. My flywheel bolts did not have any locking tabs so I will make those too. Any tips with reassembly apart from care full alignment to avoid bending/stressing anything Tom.

Well I sent a big parts list to...... Canleys - received a promt concise reply, very good prices and the only one who can supply a 9 spring clutch, could supply most parts. Ist back with a reply. Rimmers - promt reply, expensive, bodymount kit was £100!!!!!, can supply most parts TRGB - Good clear response, can supply most parts and some of the ones others can't ( used ) James Paddock - Didn't quote, was told to use the website. Poor website, unless you know exactly what they have called it it's a pain to find things. Fitchett - No response, I think due to covid-19. Quiller - good response and can, fair prices can supply some used parts. Have ordered the bulk of the parts from Canleys. Will order the rest of the bits from whoever can supply the parts.

Hello, I'm cracking on with my 65 Herald chassis and rear tub, cutting rot and and welding in new steel. I intend to clean as much of the old paint and nasty underseal as possible but will not be getting to a perfect bare metal finish, it will have a light coating of corrosion but nothing serious. I am not going for a show car, the car will be used but not on wet days and will not go near salty roads. I have a big tin of zinc based primer which I'm sure will be worth putting on first so I just need a decent black chassis paint. Rimmers and Trgb sell Etech satin black chassis paint for 12.95 ( 500ml ) which seems good value? Any ideas?

Hello Fellas, good to see some local chaps are around, I may need your help when I'm staring at a part I removed 8yrs ago and wondering where it goes!! Dave.......photos are deceiving! But yes she did look lovely. Considering how many rough bits of the drivetrain I have found she drove well too. I've really broke the back of the chassis welding today, managed to do a tricky bit ( for me) around the diff area, the rest of the welding is fairly straight forward in comparison, but there is a lot of it. I takes me a long time, I spend a lot of time prepping and working stuff out, if I was doing it for a living I'd be on a couple of quid an hour! I think another solid week will see it done! ( the welding that is ).

Just a thought, what is the hole on the end of the clutch release arm for arm ? It also has a hole in the bell housing directly behind.

Cheers Gav, that job 1 in the morning!

As you have said Pete the key will be finding a decent kit!

Just had a thought, when I assembled the diff, should the flanges on the output shafts have had sealant on them such as Welseal? I don't remember removing a gasket, and one doesn't seem to be listed, but maybe it should be sealed?

Ok, yes that all sounds a bit complicated. Flywheel came off no probelm, have a feeling the bolts sound have tab washers, mine didn't. took the glaze off with some fine..ish emery wrapped eround a V block to keep it flat, worked a treat, there is no scoring. engine plate has no impact damage and putting a good quality steel rule across it in many directions revealed it to be almost 100% flat, there was a very small amount of 'unflatness' towards the bottom right hole, I could just slip a 3thou feeler gauge where the hole is. I can't imagine that would cause any issues with a big super ridging cast bell housing attaching to it! I also cleaned the bell housing mating surface as it had some blobs of paint that had run over onto the mating surface. I think it all looks good, tempted to order the clutch kit and get it bolted together!

Right chaps. Mine is a 9 spring unit, 2 dowells. close inspection reveals a potential hot spot on the pressure plare and some hairline cracks (see pic ) I suspect some localised heating has been taking place at this point? the flywheel looks a bit grotty, but remember it has sat for 8yrs or so, but it is as smooth as a baby's bum almost mirror smooth. I will remove the flywheel this afternoon to check engine plare. I have always been a fan of sticking with original parts so my gut is too stick with the spring clutch, also I have enough on at the momant and unless conversion to diaphragm is a straightforward affair I'd rather just stick with original. I won't be doing big miles or hammering it.

Hi Pete, I'll check that. Can I just put a straight edge on it? Would that have potentially been the source of the judder?

Here's a pic of the old girl just before 'the long rest'. My daughter in the sun glasses would have done her GCSE's this summer ( cancelled due to covid 19)which shows you how long it has been layed up!

Ha ha, like it. Well after todays antics I have been washing them.........a lot!!!!

Hello, as well as todays diff adventures (those that have been following) And due to my angle gringer blowing up I decided to confirm my suspicions that the juddering clutch I was experiencing just before the old girl went into hibernation was due to either a failed rear crank seal or a leaking gearbox seal. I pulled to box out and to my joy it was bone dry in the bell housing so I can remove seals from my parts list. Inspection of the clutch has revealed a broken spring in the plate (see pic ) could this have been the source of the judder? Pressure plate springs are fine and flywheel looks good, thrust bearing is a little lumpy so I'm hoping a clutch kit will sort that out. Also could judder be caused by general wear, slop in the drivetrain itself? I have rebuilt the hubs and uj's already and had the propshaft reconditioned and balanced, also all the rubber bushing and mountings will be new so that will tighten the show up I suppose? can anyone reccomend a clutch kit and supplier?

The're in....but it was bery difficult. I measured the difference between the hole and the bush with a micrometer, the bush was 0.38mm bigger. I know that doesn't sound much but that is a hell of an interferance fit!! I stuck the bushes in my old black and decker power drill which has a handy frame that alows it to be mounted to a bench and using a file and some emery cloth got it down to 0.05mm over, they then pressed in nice and tight with threaded bar and then once that got too tight a high quality hydraulic puller!! Fitted all new seals and a gasket and hey presto I now have a diff!!! I intended to be welding today but my angle grinder blew up after about 1 minute of use this morning so at least I have achieved something!

Canleys and Paddocks coming out well, I think with Rimmers 20% of the price drives their marketing machine! I got some neat chassis repair panals fron Chic doig for around the diff area, they were also very helpful when I asked questions.

All the old bushing is out but there is no way it will push in easily, maybe I have iffy bushes? I bought them about 3 years ago from trgb I think, I'll file a lead onto the front edge see if that helps. Got them in the freezer at the moment see it that helps?

Yes the diff is out the casing, tried with a hydralic puller and threaded bar but the slope on the back face of the flange keeps pushing the bush over, out of square. I'll make a wedge to square up the back face.