DJB350Z

This seemed arguably simpler, described here from 19m30s. Happy to try the 13 method if it comes to it though. You think there's too much movement as well in my video?

You're right. According to the manual some 2.5 engines have asymmetrical cams. Mine is symmetrical. We revised our setup a little because our dummy pushrod wasn't sitting quite vertical, and as it raised up and down it would sometimes twist and both these things affected the reading on the dial gauge. With version 2 of the piston stop and pushrod measurements became more consistent and we ended up getting the cam/crank sprockets aligned as best we could to 110°. Following that, the head and rocker assembly has gone on and this afternoon we set about setting the valve clearances. We've found 3 methods to do this. 1) Follow the manual - we found the instructions difficult to follow presumably because of how we set the timing. 2) The rule of 13 - this was probably going to require the crank to be turned over a bunch of times, more room for error and even simple maths would get annoying. 3) Set each cylinder by firing order to TDC, and adjust each inlet/exhaust pair in turn. This is the method we picked, seemed the simplest. Having done the procedure for the first time, on my first inline 6 cylinder engine, on my first Triumph and of anything of this type and with pushrods etc. paranoia is setting in about how much play there is in some of the arms at different points in the cams rotation. I understand they're opening and closing so there will be movement. I took a couple of videos, is this normal?

We've been attempting to do the timing on my 2.5 saloon engine that will eventually go into my GT6. Since we had to reinstall the camshaft we need to synchronise the timing of it in relation to the crank. To prepare ourselves for this I've been using this video as a guide: https://youtu.be/wKoWwOWMpt4 My dad made a homebrew version of the plate, piston screw and dowel pushrod setup and we added a timing wheel to the crank and a dial gauge (thou) to measure the lobe position of the #1 inlet pretty much identically as the video. We're also working with a new chain and duplex sprockets. At around 27:30 in the video Elin talks about moving the crank to 110° which we have also done. However, after reattaching the chain Elin uses his dial gauge to check things. He measures .005 either side of his lobe's centre point, and divides the sum by 2 to equal 110°. He seems quite surprised about it! When we did that we got 124.5° so to bring that number down we clocked the cam sprocket 90° anticlockwise, expecting a deduction of 8.6°. Instead, we measured 101° so something wasn't quite right there.. maybe? I want to know how crucial are these numbers for our Triumph engines? Will I drive myself crazy trying to get the magic number? When turning the crank it's hard to do smoothly, and our make shift push rod seems to have some variance on the dial gauge as it moves up and down. Ive read that there's some slop in the sprocket bolts, as well as the slack in the chain that I try to iron out after an anticlockwise turn. I'm trying to be as precise as possible but I don't know if I'm being realistic in my expectation to be 'bang on'?

Hi, I have a complete GT6 overdrive gearbox. From what I research these are D type units from the factory. In the box of spares I got with my project I have one of these J type adapters: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-312305 Any clues what PO was trying to do here? J type better than D? I guess the adapter by itself is useless and you need other bits as well for a conversion?

Clay bar is a good thing to have for maintaining super smooth contaminate free paint. I assume the spots from car washing? If you live in an area with hard water you'll be prone to them after a wash. Some people add water filters like this: https://www.waterfilterman.co.uk/car-washing/568-aquahouse-di-car-wash-water-filter-pure-water-for-spot-free-rinse-car-valeting-window-cleaning-5060506004600.html I tend to finish a wash with a rinse, then dry off with a plush microfiber cloth and that geneally does the trick. Failing that, a light polish with some meguairs product gets rid.

We have pillar drill though if this is getting to be a rare part I'd prefer to save it for someone else and get a known MK3 item as someone suggested. Just depends on how much it will cost to buy one - waiting for TRGB to come back to me.

Edit: I was mistaken.. The 7/16" bolts I have aren't going through at all. Apologies, the message was lost in translation when my dad was explaining to me the issue! Engine is in his garage at the moment so I couldn't see first hand. I went over to take some photos just now of the bolts I have. I measured the ID of the flywheel holes with verniers and got 10mm. I think that means then that a 3/8" bolt will fit, and if so, I in fact have an early GT6 flywheel. Right? 😆

That's kinda what I was thinking when looking at mine. What's puzzling is that the bolt holes in the flywheel I have are far far closer to 7/16" than 3/8". If I have luck sourcing a GT6 item from TRGB at least I can compare them.

I'll give them a call in the morning and see what they say.

The bolts I have are 7/16" UNF. I haven't ID'd the clutch that PO supplied yet but the wear on the flywheel does seem to marry up with the clutch. Not conclusive proof I know.. I'm not sure what to do. I've struggled to find a used GT6 flywheel, and I'm not interested in spending £400 on a new lightened alloy type one right now. Machining might be a temp solution, but even if I do that I guess I might run into issues with the starter motor. I have a 2.5 engine, and a GT6 gearbox so just need something to sandwich in!

The flywheel arrived but the bolts that fix it to the crank don't go through the holes. ##Seems the shoulder of the bolt (where there's no thread) is tapered outwards by a fractional amount.## ^Edit: I was mistaken. The bolts aren't going through at all. Apologies, the message was lost in translation when my dad was explaining to me the issue! 1. Would this news indicate an early 2l? 2. Could I just machine out the bolt holes? 3. Would I be better sourcing an actual mk3 gt6 item, if I can find one?

I have a 1973 GT6 with a 2.5 PI engine. I've purchased a multi mark cover which was cheap enough to take a punt on. Will report back with findings but fingers crossed the seal diameter is ok. Thanks again for insights.

Hey, I'm in the market for a timing cover and although it looks like compatibility is good between Triumph models I've noticed they have different tabs on the face of them sometimes. 1. What are the tabs for? 2. Are the differences significant in some way? As an example, here's 2 pictures of a couple on eBay right now.

Removed the core plugs this morning. 1 of them had a hole in and the others were a bit snotty on the inside. First time I've done this job so unsure if they were that terrible but hey ho - another job done. Here's a photo of some of them, you can see which put up a fight.. Will fit the replacements over the weekend. Unsure it needs it but I'm planning to use a smidge of gasket maker around the seals.

Thanks for the link Pete.

Thanks! So it sounds like I'll just need to use an imperial to metric chart and get the best I can find in the future. I'm surprised I'm struggling to find this stud off the shelf from one of the usual suppliers! It's one of the 3 studs that sits in the cylinder head that the intake manifold mounts onto.

Ok then, need some help! Unfortunately or fortunately depending on how you look at it I grew up in a metric world which is making my quest to find a replacement stud more difficult than I think it should be. My manual says it should be 5/16 UNF x 1.31. The places I've looked up quote lengths (1.31) in fractional inches. But when I convert the decimal to a fraction I don't see the result as a common size listed for sale. So how do I find the correct size stud to buy please, or is it a game of do some sums and find the nearest..?

Earlier this year I bought a stormforce cover when I had to store a car outside while some building work was going on. The fit was good, and I had zero issues with damp or scratches. However, I fitted the optional security lock because it's an expensive cover and I didn't want it going walkies!

Oh well.. I'll take the plunge at that price. Thanks for checking it.

Hello, As per title, can somebody help me identify this flywheel please? I need to check it's suitable for a GT6. The seller says: "Please examine the photos. I am not sure which model this fits". It does look pretty rusty, although I'm hoping serviceable. eBay Link

Spent this afternoon lapping in the valves and started fitting the new valve springs with my dad. Will finish the remaining springs tomorrow, and refit the rocker assembly, which although was in good shape I got a new shaft for because the old was a little scored and I was paranoid about one of the oil holes potentially being blocked. I also ordered new end plugs for the rocker shaft but the new one had threaded ends with plugs already in situe. Saved us a job! I picked up a replacement set of H6 carbs on ebay for reasons I'll post later. Also on order are numerous nuts and bolts aswell as a timing kit including sprockets. I still need a timing cover and crank pulley though. Trying to work out if there's compatible items out there for that.

Thanks both! If anybody has one of the compatible units mentioned please drop me a message. Thanks again.

Hello, Does a Spitfire share the same steering column assembly as a GT6? Thanks

Thanks all for pointers. I'm learning about carbs for the first time so knowing to check thinks like throat size is valuable. The manifold side flange of these are square with four holes. There's adapters in place that accept the 2 slanted studs from the GT6 manifold. These are being used with a 2.5 PI. They're in my dad's garage now so will measure up tomorrow. I've discovered a size chart and looking at the flange shapes alone it looks like H6. Thanks again.

Can anyone help identify these SU carburettors? They don't have an ID tag with an overall code, and the various stamps seem to just point to the individual parts. The manifold is a GT6 item and the carbs have been somewhat made to fit. Not the best photos but hey..