DJB350Z

Thanks. The photo is quite old, I just didn't realise at the time anything went in there. Still a while away from fitting belts though but just wanted to confirm it before I buttoned the tub down. If my memory is correct the seat belts I have are the 'Britax' cartidge type. I guess they bolt straight into those holes and not eyelets?

Hello, I've reintroduced my GT6 tub to the chassis and want to know what these 2 holes either side of the tunnel are for. I assume they are for seat belt anchors. Can someone confirm? Thanks

Most compressors are advertised with the higher air displacement figure, not the important one which is 'free air delivery' (FAD) which is usually less than the displacement figure. I got the SIP QT100/10 and have been happy with its performance so far priming my GT6. Yes it will cut in for more puff if you spray for a long period but on a car that size you can plan ahead and go section by section to make it manageable. The decibels are quite low as well so shouldn't be too annoying for those around you. It's big enough for my garage. Not sure where I'd put a 200l tank otherwise.

Question about the paint. When you say you got it from the shop, do you mean the club shop? I'm looking to buy some cellulose myself shortly.

Hey, My doors didn't come with latches so I picked up a pair from a breakers but they need attention. They look well sealed so can I safely submerge them in something and if so, what? Or, can I somehow disassemble them? Also, once clean, do the internals need lubricating? Thanks

Shame there's no photos but sounds like you're making good progress. I'm at a similar stage with mine. What colour are you doing? And what type of paint?

Nice little experiment that. I'm surprised the length of the ram pipes made little to no difference.

I've been considering the same. I like the look of the Quick Jack but you might also take a look at MaxJax 7 which is a 2 post lift that can be taken down fairly easily if you don't want the posts permanently in the way. Not a low entry cost though so perhaps harder still to justify for DIY.

I tried it out on the other door today after also watching a few Youtube videos on the subject. I can say it definitely helped lessen the dents - there was one crease in particular that I managed to iron out perfectly so was really happy about that. I was quite cautious in my approach, and I probably could have done with a wider selection of tools so I did still end up using some filler but yeah, it was fun trying a new technique.

Thanks for the link. Read the first part and looks handy. Will look at the rest and see if I can apply some of that knowhow to the other door!

Attempted to tackle the worst of my doors. I pushed out the crease as much as I could given the poor access from the other side, then applied some Upol Fantastic body filler. It probably still looks like a lot of filler but was nothing compared to what was there before. Tiny bit more effort required on it and then I'll be happy with the outcome. I've got some 1k Upol Dolphin stopper on order. I'm hoping I can use this premixed filler to sort out the pin holes.

I adjusted the hardener several times but it didn't help so I assume it can only be the temperature. 🤔

@Adrian Saunders a couple years on, how has the non-iso 2k paint held up? Where did you buy it?

Another update - I stopped using Isopon P38 and bought a tub of Upol Fantastic. I'm finding the latter much smoother and more workable for longer on the larger areas I have to address.

So.. summer came and went. Work got busy and my eldest was off for school holidays so progress understandably stalled. Before the break I'd managed to take all the removable parts from the tub, doors, boot, headlamp bowls etc. and prep them for paint. Doors were a nightmare... full of THICK body filler. Plooms of dust everywhere. But now I can see what's going on with them I can hopefully skim them with a little less filler and make a nice job of it, although it's not a task I'm looking forward to given the amount of dinks and creases in them. Then, I strung them up on a make shift washing line and gave them all a covering of epoxy. This week I've got back into the swing of things and laid down 3 coats of P980 primer to the tub. Rookie mistake was using a primer the same colour as the epoxy, so I had to do a guide coat or two. For the tub only, I've used 1.5 litres so far. I guess that's fairly thin, but I'm unsure really how much primer I need. I have 2.5 litres left, and I still have the doors and bonnet etc. to do. Amongst the primer work I've been taking care of some imperfections, mainly the rear tailgate section. The rear valance looks to have been replaced and some distortion in the metal needed to be smoothed out. Not perfect, but getting there micron by micron.

Yep. Tried it lots of times but somehow I always get in a mess. 😄

Used the onion board today - absolute game changer ha ha The mixture spreads beautifully on the sheets and the spreaders are way better to apply with than the 1 you get with the tub of filler since they're thinner.

My plan is to avoid 2 pack paints because of the requirement for an air fed mask. I double checked the data sheets for my primers and there's no mention of isocyanates (compared to the 2 pack equivalents which do so) so I should be ok with my new half mask/better class filters. Still learning though, so it doesn't hurt to check, and check again.

It sits away.

I didn't know those pads existed. Mine doesn't have them. Wonder if they're available somewhere to buy.

Thanks Chris for the advice. I actually have BodyPro 980 ready to use but kind of dismissed/forgot about it as a 'proper' filler because as you pointed out it's quite fine. Just ordered 100 sheets and 10 spreaders for 8.99. 👍

Hello, All bodyfillers I've seen are 2 part, where you mix in a hardener as a catalyst for the curing process. I currently use Isopon P38. Mixing up body filler is one of my least favourite jobs so I am wondering, is there any product out there that's premixed? It's not like I have to do this for Pollyfilla when filling holes in a wall but maybe the difference is the material to be filled.

Thanks. It's only when I check using my laptop that I can see that detail. On my phone its not shown..

Does anyone know if a Spitfire 1500 windscreen is directly compatible with a GT6? Interested to hear from someone who's done it rather than folklore. My windscreen has a crack in it running from the top to the bottom and I might be able to get a good used Spitfire 1500 replacement but unsure to just buy a new GT6 one from Rimmers.

So what's the deal with the Chelmsford address?