avivalasvegas
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Posts posted by avivalasvegas
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I've been doing a bit more research on this. Turns out, as may have been mentioned, the Koni Rotoflex shocks are NLA. But, Rimmer Bros sells this kit.
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RG1306KONI
If I've understood this correctly, I'll need to convert my rear setup (pictured 5 posts above) to install Koni shocks or stick to Spax adjustable shocks without the conversation?
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Got the GT6 back today. My word...what a difference! A few observations:
1) The Mintex pads are squealing loudly from 10mph down to stop. I called Dale to ask if this was expected and he didn't hesitate to say "Aha! I told you so! Mintex are noisy and Greenstuff are quiet". I did do a few 70-40mph hard braking runs to bed them in on the way home.
2) I thought the motor was powerful before but now that it is correctly tuned, power is through the roof, the oil leaks are gone and it idles at 900 rpm when cool. I couldn't contain the widest smile on my drive home and am genuinely worried I may have too much fun for my own good in this thing!
3) The steering and gear assembly is the biggest area of change, by far. It feels very tight and nimble and the lateral and vertical shudder/ shake is gone. Almost. The steering wheel still vibrates from side to side at motorway speeds.
Really looking forward to enjoying this car!
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30 minutes ago, clive said:
Not sure how anybody can give a time estimate when investigation is involved. As my post above, it can be an hour, can be much longer. Stuff like the filters not fitting etc all takes a chunk of extra time. As does rebuilding a delco dizzy. I have a serious dislike for them.
Sounds like what you're suggesting in that case is "trust" the mechanic and forget about estimation? I'm not sure if all the work done on the car was ambiguous. Then again, I haven't worked on these cars so do not know if working on a dizzy takes more time vs. say a Classic Mini which takes 30 mins tops.
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Dale charges £54 an hour if you're a member of the "other" club. Otherwise £60. It's not the highest or lowest I've paid for Classic cars. And yes, expertise deserves a premium.
The only open question in my mind is whether the 30 hours charged is proportionate to the work done. Seemed 5 hours more than most would suggest but I suppose I'll find out soon!
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22 minutes ago, Nigel Clark said:
Dale's reputation is excellent, so I'm sure your GT6 will have been transformed.
I have no doubt. I'll reserve comment till after I drive the vehicle but at this stage, I would not describe Dale as inexpensive. Hopefully, the end result will represent good value.
Are other well known Triumph specialists out there?
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Received my final bill from Dale today. Ouch!
Good news is that the high idle and rich running issues were solved by the distributor being set correctly (it was set at 46.5 degrees). I haven't driven the car now but am told that it brakes, steers and accelerates like a GT6 should.
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Found this stashed with the original owners documents that came with the car. Thought it may be useful to some.
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49 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
what happed to the armrest and HB gaitor ????twas there earlier ????
Pete
It's going back in, don't worry.
I've also found a blanking plate for the gauges
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26 minutes ago, thescrapman said:
Next time the seats are out, get a rubber boot on the handbrake. Make it look 100 times better.
You mean this ?
I believe I had a leather boot on there but you're right - the rubber looks more built for purpose.
I'm also going to need the metal clasp that fastens to the edge of the gear shifter leather boot, connecting the boot to the shifter. No idea where I'm going to be able to find one!
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Steadily getting it back to original. Note, MED short stubs are gorgeous but the vacuum hoses not yet hooked up. Wanted to share the revised carb setup regardless. Hopefully, we can get the idle to settle down.
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This is the light I have installed, made by a lovely chap named Hazen Wardle in the US. £100 plus post. It is as OE looking as possible.
I have also installed OSRAM LED bulbs in the brake lights. They do illuminate quicker than incandescents but I may need to repaint the reflectors for more illumination.
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This post has scared the living daylights out of me. I wouldn't want our GT6 to be hit by an idiotic lorry driver. Fortunately, London is largely 20 mph now but still, to help mitigate this, I've invested in a high mount third brake light ( at the top of the rear screen). It is a very low car so I'm not sure what else can be done?
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Noted. Dale's been busy
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21 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
Rimmers and Paddocks still stock them, Canleys surprisingly "no longer available" around £10 each
Doug
Is Trupart superior to the options available on those websites or are they the same?
vs.
https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/wheel-cylinder-mk11-models-2
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2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Not keen on incorrect pads being made to fit by grinding...
Those were the same pads (£45 on ebay) I was told to purchase earlier in this thread so was surprised to learn that they needed grinding.
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Heard back from Dale today.
"I have had a good look at the brakes now and can tell you that the OSR wheel cylinder is seized solid, doing nothing and has been like that for some time! The NSR cylinder is weeping and so we need 2 new cylinders and the cable is over-adjusted, kinked and has the pull off spring holders on the wrong way round (as is 1 internal spring) and the rear brakes themselves are under-adjusted, so that all needs sorting out too. For now I have cleaned the rear brakes up and keyed the surface of the drums, reassembled and moved on to the front where I have freed off the pistons in the OS caliper which were causing it to bind, cleaned up the calipers, fitted the Mintex pads with the correct pins/shims as supplied inc drilling out the pin holes which were the wrong size and grinding down the pad backplates to allow them to be fitted (they are not Vit/GT6 pads), applied the CeraTec coating and renewed the fluid which was as old as the hills.
Unfortunately the stub stacks you have supplied will not fit inside the air filters on the car. This is because the filters are offset (eccentric) compared to the carburettor intakes and being quite large the stub stacks sit where the filter needs to be preventing reassembly. It will be necessary either to fit the smaller stub stacks I have or to replace the air filters with central (concentric) ones. Let me know what you want to do and then I can get on with sorting the breathing/tuning out
I will repair the clutch master cylinder which is leaking and renew the fluid there too"
I've decided to replace the filters. Hugely relieved the brake issue was obvious and clearly something that was neglected.
Is there a preferred manufacturer for brake cylinders?
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Agreed on their catalogue. I did contact the seller and they are confirmed as designed to fit the Rotoflex cars. I'd be very interested to know if anyone has the above exact Spax parts on their car and their experience with them before I purchase a set for mine.
Cheers!
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I believe they are Chinese with a poor reputation, which makes them an instant avoid.
Genuine Timken bearings are hard to beat but equally hard to verify as genuine.
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These SPAX adjustable rear shocks seems specified for Rotoflex cars. And they're very reasonable.
What am I missing?
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2 minutes ago, clive said:
Anything in particular you wish to worry about? I assume you intend using the H frame radio aperture to fit some gauges? Easiest is to get some millboard, or veneered ply etc and cut appropriate holes.
The usual - air, electricity, vacuum and/ or water. I was hoping a "factory look" option existed as I am trying to keep the car looking as original as possible, easier said than done. I was able to pull this off with the Classic Mini to some extent!
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8 minutes ago, trigolf said:
Without starting the Green Stuff debate again, I'm intrigued....
Many years ago at Stafford I bought a set of EBC Green Stuff Kevlar pads from Canleys stall. I put them in the loft,for when finally needed, and forgot all about them.
I'm planning to replace the front pads soon, but have got some Mintex 1144's to go on as I don't want the pain that some people have gone thorough with rubbish brakes !
Question - If Green Stuff pads are that bad, how come they're still sold by reputable specialists, such as Canleys etc ?
Gav
Perfect question deserving of its own thread. I'm just relieved to have found everything eventually.
Any suggestions on a gauge cluster parts (including gauges) for the area behind the shifter?
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First batch of parts going on the car below. Very excited to have brakes that are non-decorative in nature!
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Sound advice- result pictured below.
The steering wheel is the only one I could - I suppose it’ll have to do
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I avoid Exide in general and while I was a fan of Yuasa back when they were a purely Japanese battery company. They've since shifted some manufacturing in Guandong, China, which is where the battery I purchased was made. It lasted 2 years before erupting, causing corrosive damage to my battery tray on another vehicle.
Since then, I've purchased Bosch/ Varta 5 year batteries.
New GT6 MK2 Purchase - The journey of improving it further!
in General
Posted
That was my first thought but the tyres are new and were balanced by an experienced technician.