cliff.b

Hmm, could that mean I have a gearbox from an earlier car with the Speedo drive set up for a higher ratio diff?

Tried to read what was written on the diff but painted & couldn't make it out. However, I just went for a spin with a GPS speed app on my phone. At 3000 rpm the Speedo was reading 48 but the GPS said 55. So I'm happy I have the correct diff in the car but now have another issue to resolve lol

Yes. Still a bit spongy but happy to drive it now so will prob let pads bed in further. If, as you suggest, the actuator rod is positively located, I presume I can't use it if I decide I want to fit the new standard MC?

I have refitted the old, non-standard brake MC on the reinforced bracket and the actuator rod still has no movement, but it's not because of the distance from the brake pedal. In fact I had to move the top of the brake pedal about 5mm towards the MC to get the pin in.

I have just removed the clutch & brake cylinder brackets to swap them over and there are other differences apart from the re-inforcement (see pics). I'm wondering if this might account for the lack of play in the actuator rod 🤔

Ok, thanks. I have some work to do in the rear brakes do will check then

Can I see that when it's fitted? If so, where should I be looking?

Yes, I will test the speedo against GPS. On my test drives I keep going for 5th gear LOL. Guess I will have to think about fitting an overdrive

I think the 18.5 is what I was expecting, giving about 55 at 3000 RPM. My Speedo was showing just under 50 but as suggested, one of those might not be accurate. I will see how the speedo compares with GPS.

Yes, good point. I have an app on my phone so will test it out

Many thanks👍

Do you know where these stamps on the wheels are located?

That will make things easier 👍

The shims supplied in the Rimmer fixing kit are stainless. I'm sticking with standard pads for now because I want to make sure the stock setup is as good as it can be before deciding if I want to try and improve it. Partly this is because I hadn't driven a Spit for 40 years and it's difficult to remember how good (or bad) the stock brakes actually were. I'm certainly open to the idea of improving the brakes eventually, but not to try and make up for something that isn't working optimally.

Do you know if the bolts holding the brackets go into captive nuts or do you need to find the non captive ones?

I didn't even notice the brackets were different and I'm guessing whoever put the car back together didn't either.

That should say assumed a 78 was 5J

Thanks. The tyres look and smell brand new but as you suggest, I will look for the date stamp. I assumed a 78 was 1500 but as I just responded to another poster, I'm not certain about that and agree that they would be far too wide for 4.5Js. They don't look like they are "balooning" though.

Thank you for your thoughts. Do you know if a 1978 1500 would be 4.5J or 5J? I was thinking 5J but could well be wrong about that.

Thanks

As explained on other parts of the forum, just bought a largely restored but non running Spitfire 1500 this week and have now sorted the engine and brakes sufficiently to make a proper test drive. All surprisingly good, I'm pleased to say, but at 50MPH it was reporting 3000 revs which was higher than I was expecting. Could anyone confirm what I should be seeing? There is no overdrive fitted and the rear tyres on the car when purchased are brand new 185/70 13's which I'm thinking should be fairly close circumference to those originally fitted. Any thoughts appreciated.

Both calipers replaced now. As I explained previously, the NS caliper had a seized piston. The OS pistons are not completely seized but very "sticky" and co-incidentally, the retaining clips that I had a problem with were missing and one of the bars had backed out to the extent that the pad was no long properly seated. Anyway, I bled just the calipers and tested it. The pedal is still spongy but even so the braking is much better and a 2nd hard pump dips the nose sharply. I am thinking bleed the whole system again, (following advice regarding rear brakes) and drive a bit more to bed the new pads in. If still spongy, I will then put the new original spec MC on as I cannot detect any play in the actuator rod. Or would it be feasable (or even sensible) to temporarily place a couple of washers between the MC & the mounting bracket to gain a little play and see if that resolves the problem?

Ha Ha, I've just realised my "school boy error I was putting the bars in from the wrong side 😀. In my defence, it's a long time since I have done this sort of thing. Will need to start engaging brain before taking action.

Yes, agreed. I wasn't going to change it all at once. One thing at a time then test ☺️. I have replaced the caliper with the seized piston now, bled it and the pedal feels much better. Will replace the other one after lunch. Incidentally, I am using Rimmer supplied caliper, pads & fitting kit and the clip can't be fitted on the retaining bars because the hole is still covered by the caliper. I have had to use a drill slightly larger than the retaining bar head to recess the opening a couple of mm so the bars sit further in and the clip hole can be accessed.