Stratton Jimmer
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Posts posted by Stratton Jimmer
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Thanks Colin. My searches didn't show that one!
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Just on the off chance, does anyone have a steel boot lid for a Mk4 or 1500 Spitfire they don't want? (both the same according to Fitchett's, Rimmers, Canley and others).
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1 hour ago, Mack said:
Would it be detrimental to unplug the alternator wires with the car running?
Why take any risk? Just unplug it then start the engine. It's the battery that provides the power to the ignition and starter motor.
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P.S. Needles in the HS6 are BCM.
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Not too sure if this has any relevance but my Sixfire currently has its HS6s fitted. I had a sound that seemed to be a bearing squealing which turned out to be a leaking gasket between the manifold and the front carburettor. I did the "run without water pump and alternator" trick which, in my case made no difference. Once the gasket had been identified as the fault it was easily fixed. Here's the rub though, I had noticed a fine film of oil in the carb to manifold adaptor when I had the carbs off to do the gasket. The rocker box vent pipe led to a tee piece with two pipes from there straight to the carbs. I have since changed this to a universal breather tank as shown in the attached photo in order to limit the oil going to the carbs. Since then, my engine's performance seems to be slightly better than it had been. I can't think why this should be but pick up in OD top is definitely improved.
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A friend asked me if it was me broken down. He passed the scene some fifteen minutes after I did and told me there was an AA van with the car.
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Thanks Ian, that all makes eminent sense. Seeing this, I suspect that my shock absorbers are angled too far from the vertical. Time to have a rethink!
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A fine looking specimen! Welcome back.
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I have club shop supplied items and they are fine.
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On 13/05/2024 at 08:51, Ian Foster said:
Koni dampers on improved chassis mounts
How are the chassis mounts improved? My 6 being a very early Mk3 should be almost identical to yours. If anything, my rear end is a little on the high side so I don't think an extra spring leaf would help in any way. My Sixfire handles beautifully and corners superbly while the 6 always seems to be wanting to tuck up when trying to corner quickly. I will check the toe in as per Pete's instructions and see what I find.
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Thanks John. I really appreciate your insights.
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Noting that my 77 Sixfire with its swing spring suspension handles a lot better than the early Mk3 GT6, I wonder if anyone has any thoughts or ideas about a swing spring conversion of the latter. It no longer has the rotoflexes as I fitted Classic Driving Developments CV drive shafts. That also cleared the way to change the tall shock absorbers mounted under the wheel arch to diagonal ones mounted to the chassis extensions.
So, has anyone done such a conversion and if so what might be involved? Thanks in anticipation, Jimmer.
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Being in a bit of an unusual quandry by virtue of both cars being serviceable with no planned work outstanding (at the moment) I ripped the lid off the Spit and did a little circuit (44 miles) from Stratton to Hungerford, to Marlborough and back to Stratton. As I was passing the A420 to A419 entry slip road at the prescribed speed limit, I saw what at a glance appeared to be a TR2 with bonnet up beside the slip road. Hope that it wasn't any of you lot! Unfortunately, I wasn't able to go back and offer any help as I had to collect grandchildren from school.
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14 hours ago, Unkel Kunkel said:
I’d be a wee bit careful with a stethoscope round ones neck getting up close to rotating pulleys and belts etc..
I said I used the stethoscope method - actually a 10 inch socket set extension with one end on the block and the other by my ear.
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I had a nasty whistling sound on the Sixfire recently which turned out to be a split gasket on the front carb to manifold joint. It was a tiny tear but it initially had me very worried as it sounded as though it was caused by a bearing within the engine. The stethoscope method told me it wasn't and I also removed the fan belt to eliminate water pump and alternator as being possible causes.
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The top or outer edge of the C doesn't engage in anything. I slid the joiner aside to get this photo.
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Hello there. If you are in Trowbridge, why not come and join us at The Foxham where the North Wiltshire branch meet every second Tuesday of each month. Details are in the magazine and all Triumphs are very welcome. My Spit started life as a 1500 but now has GT6 mechanicals.
Best WIshes
Jim
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I have had very good colour match paint from The Car Paint Warehouse. I took my boot lid and they matched it perfectly. You may need to Google the business to find if there is a branch near you.
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My Mk3 heater knobs have very tiny allen head screws which secure them onto the metal shaft.
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Another vote for Paddock's and also for Canley Classics who I have found to be very helpful.
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The PO of my GT6 created his own "inspection" hole. A large, roughly hewn chunk of the cover was absent. I was given a new fibreglass cover with the car so no real complaint but I then found a suitable piece of plastic (from a 15 litre fence paint pot), tidied up the hole and covered it with the tougher plastic which is bolted into place using tiny BA bolts. It was supposed to be a temporary fix until I fitted the new cover but it has proven to be so effective that it is still in place. This car currently has no dash support / radio bracket fitted although I do have one.
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Some of our diesel locomotives at the railway, with high pressure air systems, have "spitter" valves which automatically exhaust any fluid from the air tanks.
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I have the six jacked up with the wheels off so here are two photos showing the hangers at each end of the tail pipe silencer. Top picture is driver's side. This looks very like that shown in a previous post for a Spitfire 1500 exhaust.
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Always dry!
Rust converter
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Kurust from Hammerite is what I use. Off the top of my head, I think this is also a phosphoric acid compound which also turns surfaces black.