Stratton Jimmer
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Posts posted by Stratton Jimmer
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My early Mk3 GT6 has HS4 SUs and runs very well with only tiny tuning changes being made now and again. That is to say that I check the balance every six months or so and also stick the old colourtune in to ensure they haven't drifted off. Like I say, they have never needed more than the slightest adjustment. My sixfire has run reasonably well with HS6 carbs but does run better with CDSE150 Strombergs. Due to a minor issue with the strommies it currently has the SUs back on which are OK. I can't see your problem being a carburettor one so recommend that you do follow Pete's advice... He's rarely (if ever) wrong.
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12 hours ago, Morgana said:
When I would need to use my 1.1/8"BSW one unless I were building an icebreaker, I don't know!
I work on a heritage railway and most of our locomotives have all Whitworth threaded bolts, set screws, studs and nuts.
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Better quality covers are "breathable" which means that you wouldn't have to remove it for ventilation. I suggest that you look for that feature when you purchase one. Better dry than wet!
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Johny is right. I had a problem with the mechanical fuel pump overpowering my float valves giving the symptoms that you describe and solved it with 3mm of additional gasket between the pump body and the block. Later, once I had rebuilt the carbs, changed the rubber pipes for Gates Barricade, installed an additional fuel filter just before the carb's "Tee" piece and gotten rid of every last miniscule rubber speck I was able to remove the additional gasket and all is now well.
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I absolutely agree with you there Johny. Anyway, here are the photos of the radius arm and its chassis mount which is well inboard!
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Well, things are not at all like either book. The radius arms are of the adjustable type but are straight with no offset at all. The eye holes are at 90 degrees to the rod. The length of the offside one was approximately 14.7" measured with a steel tape. The nearside one was 15". The brackets to which they fit are offset to cater for the angle between the hub and the chassis. Pictures to follow...
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The WSM keys to the two drawings are definitely swapped over as there is only one dimension on the straight rod and two for the offset rod. Haynes seems to have it right. The Vitesse has a longer wheelbase than the GT6 so I expect there to be differences in the radius rod length. I'm about to get the overalls on and go take a look at the six. I will let you know what I find.
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2 minutes ago, johny said:
I cant imagine youd get straight ones to fit on a GT6 surely?
In the other thread, Uncle Pete suggested that the brackets are angled so that the radius arm has eyes perpendicular to the arm with no offset.
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9 minutes ago, Gary Flinn said:This query's been discussed before on here, does this help?
Just read through that thread and it doesn't really help. I need to see if my radius arm eyes are offset as per the diagram or straight. I will find out tomorrow when I take off the offside. These two images which I took when I fitted the CV shafts look as though the radius arm has no offset. In which case, how long should it be?
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I have the hard copy of that manual Johny and agree that the keys to the two drawings seem to have been swapped over. If that is the case, then the Haynes manual would agree with the WSM. I was hoping someone would know the definitive dimensions. When the weather is better tomorrow, I will whip the offside wheel off and measure that radius arm for a comparison.
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Suspecting that there is something not quite right with my nearside rear suspension, I wanted to check the length of the adjustable radius arm. Haynes suggests that it is 16.71" and the Vitesse is 14.71" while the Triumph Workshop Manual shows it the other way round albeit that the diagram and its key are incorrect. What should it be? Here are two photos of the relevant diagrams from each book.
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I would suspect the diode pack. Had one go on my old Landrover and it exhibited the same symptoms as described in Post 1.
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Very smart looking motor car.
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Welcome to the madhouse. As others have said, that's a very nice looking car. Hope to be in the Paignton area next summer with our Spit so will look out for you.
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My GT6 has a Triumph Tune engine fitted with a Lucas 22D6 dizzy, Pertronics Igniter alongside a 6volt coil and runs very well.
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Tongue firmly in cheek I will suggest using a John Bull printing set and some white Dulux. 😉
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1 hour ago, KevinR said:
I’ve got an old analogue Gunsons one that works a treat,
Me too. Nothing too fancy and less to go wrong. I won't be changing it anytime soon.
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Stick with it as is - it looks fantastic!
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A friend and I took a Mk2 GT6 gearbox out of its car from the inside with the car on the edge of the parade ground at RAF Uxbridge 1982. I don't remember it being overly difficult. The car belonged to a WRAF driver. She was very grateful!
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Well, we had two Heralds, one GT6 Mk3 and two Spitfires (one was my sixfire). There were a total of ten people there and breakfast was excellent!
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Thanks Colin, that is a good idea which I will pursue.
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Hi, the normal November meet at the Foxham is being replaced with a Saturday morning meet up at the Lowden Garden Centre (meeting for breakfast) from 09:00 on Saturday 11th November. Post code is SN12 8EZ.
In December we will be having our Christmas dinner at the Foxham on Tuesday 12th December. Pre-booking is essential so please contact the Foxham direct quoting Triumph Club Xmas Meal. Contact and menu details are to be found at: thefoxham.co.uk and their phone number is 01249 740665.
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Definitely go for Mintex pads. Superior in every respect.
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Thank you one and all, I will stick with my original set up. I did find it interesting that the cause for rust may be condensation on the inside of the roof panel. I don't fancy removing the head lining to look though.
Antipodean 2000.
in I thought I'd introduce myself
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Very nice!