Pettifordo

Great insight and thanks for the research I think I would do push welding where I can see the rear surface to ensure penetration and plug where I couldn’t. I’m thinking this to make the job quicker where you can see penetration - but if speed isn’t a factor plug wins every time.

Yes it is taking some time to take out what has been done previously ! With hindsight I would have replace the rear wheel arches and the rear floor….but I think I can get it structurally sound even if it isn’t pretty !! When I have been welding I have been doing it back to bare / good metal and I will continue with this process. this is the worst part of the car as the rear wings, rear valance and sills have been done before. The floor is a patchwork of previous repairs so these are being replaced with new front to back - I will just have to show that part to people and not the back !! On Saturday I spent time getting the join between the suspension tunnel and to floor looking good only to realise that it was going to be covered by trim - at least I know it looks ok 🤣🤣🤣

So the suspension tunnel from Chic Doig is now in the car. Using the spot weld head for my MIG welder which is also now on a trolley 😋 Took 3 test fits before I then used self tapping screws to get the surfaces really close. I’m pleased with the results

Do any Spitfires need MOTs now ? My car was manufactured in 1980 and it is registered as an Historic Vehicle - so no tax and no MOT. That having been said I believe that even without the need for a MOT I do have a responsibility to make sure the car is in good / safe working order. I was planning to take it to get MOT’d anyway so I guess I need to seam weld this side as well - let’s hope for less pigeon s**t - or a better angle grinder 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

So this is the result of todays welding adventure. I tried to take on board all the advice and I think the result looks better. It a nice strong result. On the down side I found more holes that need filling 🤣🤣🤣 I guess on the positive side it means I get more practice. I did add a couple of self tapping screw - although it took a few mins to sort them out I think it made me more confident with the welding. One thing I focused on was using both hands to control the welding torch and to focus on not being “pushed back” at the start of the weld or move away quickly at the end - it definitely helped. I also set the welding mask to 10 instead of 12 and I think this made it easier to see the weld pool. I suspect that I could have had the welder turned up a small amount as I still ended up with pigeon s**t welds which were quiet proud (hence the grinding) - but the penetration looks ok. Perhaps I’m also holding the trigger for a second too long ??? Or need reduced wire feed ??? With the gas turned up to 12 and everything clean I was getting a good consistent “sizzle” sound which was good.

Thanks @Bfg it’s a craft I’m determined to master - weld number 5 is scheduled for Sunday - your advice will help a lot.

I’m turning my mind to spraying my car instead of paying for a respray. Can anyone recommend a good set up to buy and good places to learn how to spray ?

@chrishawley thank you for taking the time to post these examples - I am definitely guilt of having a go one handed and/or rushing to weld instead of taking my time - I have now learned that undoing a crap job is much harder than just doing it right in the first place. I’m planning my next weld (number 5) on the offside rear wheel arch - things I’m going to do differently to the other side (see horror show of pigeon s**t above) 1) rub down both sides gently to get the paint off but not loose any thickness on the metal 2) Cut the rust out with a good inch extra to make sure all the rot is out and metal is a thick as possible 3) Attach a plate behind the hole with 0.5 inch overlap 4) Use self tapping screws to get the two surfaces as close to each other as possible 5) Do a series of spot welds which I will join up as per example 4 above As I mentally picture it, it looks perfect !! Saturday will see what really happens 🤣🤣🤣🤣

So a productive day getting the car on the rollover jig. Took about 2 hours to assemble and get the mounts on the car, then another hours and 3 friends to get the car on the jig. The result is great, sooo much easier to work on the car and it stores away better AND I can get it into good light for welding 👍👍👍 I wasn’t going to get one but I met at chap called Mark at the Xmas Club meeting and he convinced me it was worth it - I have to agree. I purchased from Ade - https://www.facebook.com/groups/282852072088530/?ref=share

I might have one going second hand if I don’t improve soon 🤣🤣🤣🤣 Today I’m going to try to get the tub on the rollover jig (have braced it). This will be my next post and a change from horrible welds 🧐🧐

Thanks for taking the time to explain things so clearly - I will keep practicing - might be OK by the time I finish 🤣🤣🤣

@Matthew could you explain that a bit more - what kind of sound an I listening for ? I can hear it coming out at either 6 or 12 🤣🤣

@Colin Lindsay I had turned the gas flow down for these welds from 12 to 6 as I watched a YouTube video for my welder which said that 6 was ok. I will go back to 12 and see if it makes it better. I think what I will do next time (on the other side, is to add a couple of self tapping screws before I start welding to pull the 2 surfaces tightly together as some the the “pigeon s**t” you see is me trying to “fill” a gap. Once the welding is finished I can then grind off the screw shaft and spot weld then in place. Will let you know how I get on 👍

@BfgBetter result with the plate behind method but still took time to get the patch to the right curve of the panel - but on the whole I think this method will be better on some of the other areas I have to do. I had a gap between the patch and the hole which closed by hammering the lip of the hole towards the patch. The end result is strong but not pretty 😱😱😱- but as has been said before it will be hidden once completed. I even got some good “runs” where I could see the weld pool and what I thought I had welded actually looked like I imagined it would. As the chap that coached me at the start said when I started - by the time I finish (about 10- 15 more areas to cover) I might be OK 🤣🤣🤣

Thanks for the feedback and I don’t take anything as criticism - just useful points to add to my experience. Yesterday I welded in some bracing bars ready for putting the car on the Rollover Jig. This went well so I decided to finish this patch by filling in the holes - total disaster and blow loads more holes !!!! My learning as follow :- 1) Don’t “quickly” try to weld anything - my mistake here was not to get the weld setting right before starting 2) Don’t try to make things better by welding more and more 3) I now have chance to try @Bfg method as the existing effort needs to be cut out 🤣🤣🤣 4) Don’t weld without a mask / gloves / jacket

I think so !

Hole in the rear wheel arch patched, more challenging to fabricate the patch and the metal I was welding to was super thin and I blew through a few times 😫😫 Still needs final patching of holes and finishing but it is solid. On the other side I was thinking of spot welding a patch behind the hole and then butt welding a patch on the front so that I have more to weld to ? Is that a good idea or do I just need to dial the welder right down ?

I had a go today on the wheel arch. welding is getting better but I still blew through a few times 😫 I will fix those once the car is on the Rotisserie. I have a copper backer plate but as the surface is curved it isn’t very good. Any tips for filling the holes ?

Is the closing panel at the front of the sill the same for all Spitfires ? I bought a panel from Rimmer Bros and instead of being flat as I expected it has a kink in it and it looks a bit big. could I have the wrong part or should I expect to have to trim the part ?

3 welds into the body work and they are getting better, I now have most of parts in logical boxes and I think I have purchased all the tools that I need. I have a car rotisserie on the way to make the welding on the bottom easier (I hope).

Thanks for the tip, Chic Doig had a panel from a scrap car that I have purchased - should make for a much better job

Thanks everyone - I will give a butt welded patch a go and let you know how I get on

I’m restoring a Spitfire 1500 and I’m wondering what to do about the rear wheel arches. they have both been patched up before (for the lower seat belt mounts) and now have more rust holes near the upper seat belt mounts. New panels are £200 each but I wondering if it would be better to get new ones than end up with a patchwork of welding ? Are these hard to fit ? I’m new to welding….but learning fast 👍

Thanks - what is NOS ?

My car really could do with a new rear deck but I can’t find the panel on Rimmer Bros, Moss or TSSC. Does anyone have any recommendations as to where I might find a panel before I start to fabricate one 👍