peterthegreat

Yes I think they are the right way round (even worse if i change them)

ah so when I strip them down it may be easy to see a broken weld, that's easy... but even then are the rakes about right? dont want to weld it up in the wrong place!

Hello everyone I have decided to revamp my Spit Mk3 seats. They currently have covers that look like they were replaced some time ago but the foam is now degrading, to an extent it looks like bad dandruff. So focus is on the foams! My main concern is that before I start I wanted to check that the seat is not leaning too far backwards, as currently it can easily clash when I put the roof up and down. I guess this may be because, over the years, too much stress has been placed on the back upright which has changed the rake angle of the seat. I also notice that the seat seems to be twisted slightly, which could be another manifestation of too much pressure but this time the effect is different on the left side of the seat compared with the right. I guess if my seats aren’t quite right then I would need to do some welding/strengthening of the main metal structure This little table below is measurements of the 2 seats by looking at the angle between the horizontal metal frame and the back of the seat, like in the picture. Its not that accurate but gives an idea. Driver’s seat Nearest the door Nearest handbrake 105 degree 106 degree Passengers seat Nearest the door Nearest handbrake 104 degree 118 degree So my 2 questions would be…. Has anyone else has experienced with this issue of seat rake? Secondly does anyone recognise any of these angles or know what the ‘proper’ angle should be? And as a bonus if you are really keen, if you have had to fix the angles how did you do it? Thanks

hi there When taking my rear hubs off with the correct tool i used an air rachet. First undo the nut a few turns but leave enough on so that when it does give it doesnt go flying across the room (think i removed the thick washer). Then set compressor to low ish psi (think I started with 30). Give that a go and then ramp up the compressor pressure, perhaps with a knock of a hammer too for good measure on the housing. For me it just slid of nice and easy. Perhaps I was lucky but not at all stressful.

i've purchased a couple of recon calipers so will fit over the next few days and report back

yeah they both go in the same direction, ie the LHS grove forward and on the RHS they grove forward

hi there Wishbones are the right way around, bolts to the wishbone brakets are tight along with the turret bolts, steering rack mounts dont waggle when I move the steering rack

Status update: The problem was there before I did the quite extensive list of things above, only think I can think of is not changing the steering rack but I cant find any play on either side. The is no noticeble play in hubs, flexi hoses changed 2 weeks ago, single line Mk3 system.Quite a few of the bushes are upgraded to poly. I include a picture for reference. I think the break is pulling it over to the left when I drive it, rather than the steering

on the steering pulling, its not so bad its janking the steering wheel to the left in a harsh way

The top bushes of the shocks were changed last winter, it was a tight fit

The difference seen on the dyno was on the front. At the back he noticed that one drum didnt seem round (even if new from rimmers) the rear drums have since been changed but I havent tested them again with the MOT man. I can't say I noticed about the steering being pulled, natural reaction to try and correct but was it pulling, it may be or may not. Can check that tomorrow. For end float of the hub back and forth, I dont think there is any but again will check in the morning. thanks for the suggestions

The springs are about 4 years old, look fine but not sure how else to check? Steering rack doesn't seem to have play in it. Did you see this simply by turning the wheel assembly back and forth and its effect on the steering wheel? If so I havent noticed such a large amount but can check again tomorrow

hello everyone, For the past ccouple of years I have been struggling with my Spit mk3 breaks pulling to the left. When doing reasonable speeds 30 mph or so there is not much 'pull' resulting in only a few inches to the left when the breaks are locked up. At higher speeds then the pull becomes quite a lot and just not correct to an extent it would be unhealthy to take on something like the M25 So here goes the list of things I have changed (not all for the break pulling!) Recon Chasis/top/bottom wishbones Stub axels/ trunion and ball joint EBC slotted disks and yellow stuff pads (they didnt have any green and said the yellow was even better, including normal day /lesure use) New recon calipers (14's) from TRGB New kuffner break pipes all round + new girling braded flexible hoses New seals etc in the master cylinder And it still pulls. So I have made sure the caliper pisons move in and out ok, seem to have similar resistance when I push them back with a couple of screwdrivers by hand - so they are not the normal stuck state tried moving the pads from near side to off side (its only done a few 100's of miles) - no change - assume its not the pads tried moving the whole front hub inc disk and pads to the other side- no change still pulls to the left - assume its not the disks or pads or items with the hub measured if the disk was in the centre of the calipers - result is 0.006" difference - seems negilbile Checked the 4 way pipe junction/spliter for dirt or something jamming one line - not the junction replaced the near side break pipe again, just for good luck (it seemed a bit long anyway) Checked the pipe from 4 way junction to off side - no kinks I can find got my friendly MOT man to put in on his rolling road and it shows the left about 10-20% stronger than the right Only thing I haven't changed temporarily is the calipers, as I they are handed. So even if they were refurbs 2 years ago perhaps something has happened to them? What do you think any other ideas before a fork out another £100? thanks Peter

hello everyone Thought I would give you a status update. As proposed one of the rear wheel hubs was bent quite a lot, managed to get a NOS one from Mick Dolphin (very helpful guy). It seems to have fixed the issue. I used the proper hub puller from Canley classics and an air rachet to remove the hubs, worked like a dream and no need for a press or to take everything apart After putting it all back together I measure the wobble using a dial meter on the inside edge of the wheel (just in from the lip) as Front near side = 045", front off side = 020", rear near side = 030" rear off side =045" once again thanks for all your help Peter

hello, I have been doing a bit more looking and used a dial indicator. I've been measuring the drum "wobble" just outside of the wheel studs. Off side gives about 0.005" and the near side about .015" as I rotate the half shaft. Does this seem reasonable? I did a bit of maths and recon that the "wobble" at the edge of the rim will be about .9mm Also TRGB looked at all 5 rims. 3 were fine with 2 being ok = "i would be suprised if that caused it" sort of remark. I got them all re balanced (again) so will report back what happens