DanielH
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Posts posted by DanielH
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Hi there, happy new year!
I guess I am lucky: the machinist replaced the botched mainshaft with another one, which has a hardened tip:
The overall endfloat of the old bushes on the new mainshaft is still in spec (0,15mm).
As soon as I've got a new main bearing (the new one really suffered from being inserted thrice), I am going to resume assembly.
Greetings
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Morning,
yeah, when I discussed the job with the machinist, he told me he would heat treat the new sleeve. Sent it back to him. The shop is reputated in Germany's spitfire community. We are going to sort it out 🙂
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Hi again,
had a look at the repaired mainshaft tip (see my other thread: https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/10903-another-worn-mainshaft-tip/)...I believe I know the root cause of the trouble...can you see it, too?
Hint: It's a 5-lettre German word...
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Ok guys, I am stuck. I am going to send my mainshaft and the suspicious input shaft to my Triumph specialist.
Merry Christmas
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Oh wow, the input shaft might come from another car, like 6cyl Herald, Vitesse?? Do these have conical bores?
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Apparently the inner dia of the bore in the input shaft decreases with depth. My new mainshaft tip is all cylindrical: the needle bearing seazes on the shaft.
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Old needle bearing (left), new one (right).
If I start pressing the input shaft (with bearing) into the gearbox and the mainshaft tip penetrates (sorry) the input shaft, a friction is building up, which prevents turing the mainshaft in the input shaft.
WTF
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Somebody has got the diameter of the main shaft tip at hand?
thx
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I am not able to get my roller bearing main shaft -> input shaft installed. Was there a difference between the versions (remember: I've got the wrong i.e. earlier repair set for my later gbox)??
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It's much better now:
Thank you all! You prevented me from a big mistake!!
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Ok, can I link threads of the other forum here?
https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/spitfire-and-gt6-forum.8/assembly-of-synchro-hub.832441/
QuoteThe face with the greater recess should be on the side with the gear teeth. While it is possible to reverse this assembly, when you selected 1st gear the balls and springs would pop out because the greater recess towards 1st gear would allow the outer hub to slide too far.
Like this:
Awesome!
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Hi guys... I believe I have a problem...
I have a fairly big gap between 1st gear (the big one) and its synchro unit. The 1st gear sits on split colars, which might fall out of their recession on the mainshaft. I am sure that they were sitting properly when my mainshaft was on the workbench. The brake ring travels free between the gear and the sync unit.
I see no way to adjust the gap. A user in a different forum turned the synchro unit upside down, which I cannot do right now because the rear bearing is half way in...
Whats the problem with the gap: if the gap is too large then the balls of the synchro unit might be exposed. Also I guess it's going to feel strange at the lever...
What are you saying?
BTW: I never drove a GT6 so I don't know about the quirks!
In situ:
On the bench:
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Morning,
I removed material from the backside of the washers.
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Before I raise the counter shaft and drive in the front/bearings...did I forget anything?
😉
Let me know
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Main shaft is populated with gears, bushes, washers and the final circlip.
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4 minutes ago, johny said:
I take it if the bush is shorter than the gear theres a risk it will spin on the shaft with the gear rather than just the gear spinning on the bush as per design....
Did you notice the surfaces on the two gears?
Overhauling my O/D gearbox (GT6+)
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
I tested the 1st gear. With the 1st gear engaged, I noticed that the reverse idler remains engaged with the reverse gear, although the idler is in the "park position". Is that intended??? 🤔 🤔 🤔