gt6j

Just to update this, over the weekend I found the corrugated coolant tube from top of radiator to thermostat housing had a hole in it down the seam.. I think this has been leaking for a while, causing the splattering of bits of water over engine bay. Replaced it with a reinforced wall type which felt much firmer. The one that split just rubber in wall, it came from a full coolant pipe kit, and is only about 4 months old.

Found a nice big split in the corrugated coolant tube off the top of the radiator on the weekend... Found it to not have any added wall strength and so replaced it with a reinforced wall type before test run around Norfolk coast today. Rain, sun, sleet, and no more leaks over the engine bay. Bring on the spring.

I was wondering about the uj as it looks really tired (but not sure if that means no good! 😄) It had bit of play and both bushes were well gone. Was considering replacing uj with one from rimmers and possibly the lower shaft at same time both look quite corroded at the uj.

Thanks again Johny, think I will at some point down the line. Its all new to me at the minute!

Cheers again for help, I did just get some loctite today, so will whizz it in tomorrow with a good helping and see how it goes from there. It isn't really really loose so hopefully will do the trick.

Great thanks for the tips, managed to get it out after raising (as advice above) from under sump and lossening those two hidden nuts on the left engine mount. Was tricky to get u bolt back in so did shorten the u bolt threads a bit to help and lossened both rack sides before tightening up. Will take out for spin the weekend hopefully and see if it's taken the slack out of the wheel 👍

OK again thanks for info, think will have to give engine a jack as no hoist! Is there an ideal place to do this? Not done it before.. Probably need about 1" to get the u-bolt out, it's got some clearance when all together but not loads. Mounts look OK.

OK cheers for help will see if bigger one works, may try silicone to just keep it there thanks again 👍

Whilst trying to sort suspension under the car I spotted a bolt halfway out under the fan.. Tried to tighten but will only go finger tight and is a spinner, not sure whether worry or leave it as is? Pic below

Well cheers again for help managed to get 1 side of suspension sorted but have no idea how supposed to replace the left side steering rack bush?? U-bolt hits engine block as lift it up cant wiggle it out, maybe I'm missing something..

Yeah really had to wrestle them in cant of been right ones, i did read somewhere usa forum that theres some issue with sizing?? I have ordered set of polys for the trunnion now thanks for link johny. Think the kit I ordered was Canleys but I could be wrong and maybe ordered for wrong model (ordered lots of small bits various). Other superflex bushes went in but very tight, should there be much free play in the wishbones by hand when nothing else attached? Mine not super stiff, but wouldn't say they are free moving with polys in

Any advice on trunnion bushes? Ones I've bought are black plastic and too big for the trunnion.. had to saw one back out. Read somewhere that this is common problem, but can't see if fitting poly superflex one is an option.

Cheers Pete 👍

Hi, after bit of help hit a pothole in the dark last week with old looking greased trunnions I'm going to have a go at replacing both front sides today and some other bits, shocks springs (std) and bushes etc. Can't work out of there's supposed to be a rubber boot or seal at the bit between trunnion and vertical link thread..? Will ep90 them after. Cheers.

Boxing day run down to Ramsgate in Kent. Was some good tunnels about for a window down too. Looking forward to getting out this year! 👍

I do think the old water pump gasket may been leaking and evaporating straight away on front of engine as was nothing left of it so fingers crossed was that

Another result, thanks again! water pump replaced and noise gone 👍 Only weird thing was old pump had only tiny bit of a play and not excessive noise. didn't seem enough to change it but noises definitely gone now new one in. Suppose any sound would travel round water ways and seem louder?? Haven't found a leak yet, keeping an eye will try footpump if find it drops again. Manged to avoid fight with bits that move

Will try this thanks johny. Just read about taking the belt off and checking the water pump for play and noise. Will give both those a go and see what's what.

Just when I thought i had it all sorted another problem has raised its ugly head! Have my coolant levels topped up 50/50mix with bottle half full when cold but last 3 or 4 outings when I turn engine off after a run the bottle is empty and there's alot of steam. Water all over engine bay and bonnet soaked looking like its coming initially from radiator cap when blows (changed this recently + the spring in it seems very strong and overflow pipe to bottle doesnt seem to get hot when steaming) The cap seal and rim of rad cap are ok and seal. On the back on this she has developed a very loud hollow whirrr that goes up and down with with revs (not diff sound) since the overheating problem. Sounds as though it comes from front of engine making me think could this be water pump noises? I thought at first gearbox just got alot louder but does seem to sound as though from front end of engine. Hope isn't the engine itself.. Worried to run it now incase I do some proper damage, any thoughts on water pump would it be that loud? (Sort of loud hollow whir like the engines in a big can) and would rad cap spring be a prob? Was gt6 cap I replaced it with. Can't think of what else to check for it getting way too hot other than water pump. All new coolant hoses and no leaks anywhere on them. Oil just changed and right levels. .

Will keep ears to the ground then. Scotland one sounds good. Must admit that pic when I bought it hasn't been quite as shiny since as using it too much 😁

Alright Dom, just got a gt6 myself look forward to seeing progress on this and finding out how you get on. Good luck!

Fantastic loads to do! Is there anywhere as a go to for things like Goodwood and Le mans trips etc, anyone been to one? keen to jump on a ferry if there's any euro runs being planned next year. Guessing they all arranged on here somewhere too

Haha love it cheers for your help Pete!

Probably could of posted here before now as I have already had loads of help on here to solve a couple of newbie headaches! Never owned triumph before or anything this old. Based in East anglia with a mk3 gt6 which I'm in love with. Looking forward to getting out on a meet soon. Will be out on all dry days this winter. Joined the club! Cheers 🍻

Cant emphasise thanks enough for all of the help on here. It's sorted my headsches out. nailed it today. If may help someone in future - symptoms were engine struggling and dying only when hot and on idle only. Pulled fine through range otherwise. I took the carbs back off and true enough there was a gap down in between the carb to manifold gaskets. think this gap existed before I ripped it all apart too on older gaskets which were wrong so that was the main issue originally as far as i can tell. (I've got a new ignition system that I know now, and the carbs did need doing as the seals were leaking anyway) The carbs (emission ones, 150) on mine don't have an air breather hole that needs to be kept clear as far as I can tell. there is a hole for it (see pic) but blow down it with tube and nothing. Seems to be blank?? Found the way the gaskets line up bewteen carb/manifold/insulator i got wrong and was wrong before, the insulator/spacer piece has to be in right way round too. Found the gasket kit that came with the carb kit had one that covered all gaps around the carb and insulator, but took a while fiddling to find the right way for them to be in. It went: carb->new gasket->insulator (finger shape gap in this pointing down to front of car and floor)->another new gasket that matched the insulator shape exactly. Once that was sorted was much happier. Dropped the idle to about 6/700 as per guidance on here, reconnected both throttles to the link, set the needles to factory (washer on needle in line with base of piston as per Pete) and voila, idles lovely and smooth at 6/700, didn't die when hot. Took it out for a good spin as below, (wet road ), no issues idle lovely & felt alot more responsive to me and didn't die at a set of lights. Smiles!