gt6j

Right definitely will whip them out and take another look there, cheers again I'd be lost without this help. I'm sure when I replaced them just other day they matched the spacer (new gasket either side of spacer) but that would still sort of lead to a gap and air leak (I think). I also have gaskets without the little extra bit with the refurb kit.

Hi Ian yeah they are both disconnected its just catching the connector a bit on the rear one but both moving on their own accord. Just on air leak, I have this cork spacer gasket between the carb and manifold (not my carb pic found online) the weird shaped bit in the hole (like a finger??) pokes out from the side of the seal when everything is bolted up assume that is normal?

Some good info again, appreciated! As unsure of age and if they work and for peace of mind (almost) today fitted new plugs, leads, distributor, coil. Set timing best could by ear. Adjusted floats to allow more fuel in carb after attenpting to set idle. got it to temp and idle but rough. when trying to lift pistons in carbs nearly dies, both carbs at max adjustment (needle up most fuel in) tried middle setting but is even unhappiest. Link to a video here not sure if it works! Don't know if related but when I put the carb adj tool into the hex slot putting pressure on the needle the revs climb. Maybe that's normal but maybe not!

Also with choke on revs climb on their own slowly, they do stop but another symptom. Have bits for ignition side on way.

Again really appreciate the help here going a bit mad. Both needles were out, I don't think I was on them properly there is a hex slot afterall. Have set the washers flat with base of piston. Managed to get it to temp with choke on, let choke go and it splutters out. Doesn't sound smooth idling with choke on. Can rev it and will rev fine doesn't die but as soon as let up gas will die. Wondering if I've blocked somewhere with a gasket. Anyone know if carb to manifold gasket (where disc is) should just have one hole and what shape as old gaskets had split in them for little hole at side. New gasket seems to cover this up not sure if it's for separate idle bit on carb? Wouldn't idle mix just come through the main disc? Cheers for help again

Doesn't have adjuster under the float chamber just a cap and has the groove in top of carb for the lock on the adjuster tool. Going to take another look tomorrow to make sure I'm locking that hex key in somewhere. It felt in and just span earlier didn't stop. When lifting the piston a tiny bit it died everytime I tried. Will try again make sure I'm definitely in far enough on the adj tool.

Just to update before I get stuck into the coil/dizzy side.. I put carbs back together all seeming ok, back on car.. didn't idle smoothly at all and dying on idle quite a bit. No leaking of fuel as before. Sounds rough to me. Not on all cylinders. Weirdly fine when pulling away up through gears and doesnt hesitate at all but when slowing down to stop just dies or very nearly does. Also revs don't slow down very nicely seem to be very slow occasionally and dancing about. My carbs aren't the type that can be adjusted as I far as I'm aware now.. they have the pin held in by a grub screw but no adjustment from above, just the idle adjuster. Haven't adjusted them. Wondering if also fuel pump playing up but only prob is on idle. Sounds as though definitely not on all cylinders when idling but as said all ok once past 10mph or so pulls nicely. Will be replacing coil and electric bit in dizzy (points been taken out by PO). Has a lucas coil and delco dizzy. Weird how only at idle though. 🤔

Have had look on that site today and the videos they have on YouTube learnt alot very good

Well after pulling it apart and measuring again found that the new little needle valves were getting stuck shut. Put the old ones in and now can blow air through both carbs and they shut off when tilted upside down. I have got the new floats double sided Pete I think guessed which way round they went but I'm sure there must be right and wrong way. See how it runs tomorrow! Or doesn't 😂

Wondering if I've got the measurment wrong now.. had a Google and found 16mm for 150cdev's. Can blow air through with the chamber case off so maybe wrong height. And yeah measured from highest point of float to lip of casing

Right got the carbs off and apart... have the tool to adjust if needed now. Have a question regarding float chamber section? Ones in there were not 16mm from lip of casing at all, have bent new ones to be 16mm from casing, however, with float chamber casing back on should you be able to blow thru the fuel inlet ok with the carb upright as I can't get air through it? Is that normal? Assumed when empty and upright should be able to blow thru as that's where fuel would come in? Also can't get injector tube out any tips welcome. Sorry this has turned into carb thread will look to see if covered elsewhere too.

Cheers Pete, have got a rebuild kit on the way, will try this and then see if its any happier. Didn't touch needle setting but seem to remember it being flush with bottom of piston when put back in. Going to look into standard air box and dizzy if still playing up. Pipes look new as far as I can tell except old rigid pipe but will look for bits when it comes out!

Thankyou for all help so far, really useful. Update, cleaned the 'topside' of both carbs in situ, found dirt in the bit where the dashpot bit drops into in one carb. Cleaned it properly and reinstalled being careful with screws and they are rising and falling perfectly now both sides. Diaphragms are intact and soft, not too stiff. Seem spot on. I haven't stripped the underside of carbs out yet as need to get a seal kit (aware now of pitfalls of diff kits!) However while scrolling looking for more answers I found the post above which describes the issue I have exactly minus fuel seepage (which seemed to be less today but could be wrong) went for to temp run with carbs back on and same prob, really struggles to idle (cutout once) and when revving pulling away it just splutters up through the range from 0-20mph then seems better. Getting light popping from exhaust when slowing down to junctions too. All of this only when engine up to temp. Could this be related to leaving the temp compensators screwed shut or should they be left shut forever more? (I had them shut on the run) On clutch - Clutch fluid hasn't dropped since cleaning the lid of the reservoir and topping up, clutch action feels good, although il be changing the resvoir and pipe as looks not long for this world.

Apologies to jump on an old thread but this is exactly what I'm getting. Did you find a solution at all? Mine runs fine cold and same as yours when heats up.

Just an update on carb woes, on the top of the strombergs, one carb the piston in the top half does not move all the way up like the other side. It goes a bit then the full wat with alot force. I switched the damper from the other carb but same thing happening. Wonder if it's getting stuck 'up' and letting load of fuel in? Not sure what's to fix it will try cleaning it out again.

Thanks Pete thats great info learning fast here!

Cheers Chris going to take a look at all of those suggestions tomorrow. They look the same as the carbs in your picture. I did undo and reattach the choke cable recently which has made start up alot worse so will have a look there too. Looks like 1 carb has alot more staining and wet than the other too.

Had a look at reservoir after 5hr drive out today and fluid had dropped about 1cm. Will have a hunt for new bits to replace as lid was crystalled up and can see residue on bit of pipe. The slave cylinder looks crusty too. Probably covered somewhere else on the forum (I will have a look) but had tiny bit of fuel coming out of bottom of carb cork seals and was cutting out and idling lumpy after running to temp.. no prob when moving just when stopping at idle and pulling away spluttery. made it home again. getting there!

Feel a bit stupid for not checking the reservoir first, but it was dark and was out of steam from pushing it down the road 😄 Filled it up just now was at bottom, can see where it's leaked from (I think) very old resevoir cap and pipes. Pressure back in pedal now.. no springs found for the ping. Will try another day out today (any excuse to go out as love driving this thing) and see what happens! Cheers for all help, overwhelmed by support on here 👍

Evening! Was driving earlier in a new to me gt6 and I heard a loud metalic ping outside(ish) of the car while driving. Can't confirm if ping was definitely the car. About half hour later and alot of no problem gear changes, the clutch pedal went very soft, followed by difficult to get into gear, then impossible to get into gear. Managed to get it home in 3rd mostly after bit of crunching. was thinking the clutch just went as was very high anyway, however, as it worked for a bit after the ping (which may not of been car) is there anything else obvious I should be checking before going for clutch replacement? The spring on the pedal itself is still there as thought may of been that. The ping sounded like a tight spring pinging off and hitting something hollow but as said could of been outside the car somewhere. Grateful for any opinion here as new to triumphs! cheers.

Brilliant, cheers for the link and tips. Going to have a go at sorting it out. Didn't realise how tightly packed everything is behind the cluster! Speedo cable etc. Lots of swearing today.

Thanks Iain yes makes sense to be fused I thought. What replacement fusebox did you use and any tips/process followed at all? Be doing a new radio soon to replace the motorola so would be handy to have i think. Cheers

Hello, I have recently acquired a 73' gt6 and have started fiddling with it. The screenwash motor has a retrofitted button type switch that is wired straight to the battery positive terminal from prev owner. Is this safe/OK to leave wired as is, or does it need rerouting/wiring via something else/fuses somewhere. Ive got the dash off to refinish the wood and planning on wiring in a USB charger, same question for that, can it go straight from battery or need to come from somewhere else/fuses? Appreciate any help.