Mr.T

Hi there. Does anybody know how to fit the check strap. Have purchased from Rimmers to replace missing ones. Looked at door and post but unsure how it goes. Pictures would be helpful as doesn't look right to me

Many thanks for this. Finally got round to doing it. Purchased a pushbutton switch. Carefully parted the old plastic top from existing switch. Bent up a piece of aluminum. Mounted pushbutton switch on it and Carefully pop riveted bracket to existing casing. That bit done I purchased an electric screenwash pump. Eventually got to fit that and then a bit of wiring. All done and works a treat. Shame water bottle is not bigger as can imagine might empty quicker. It's a lovely conversion and keeps the original switch.

Many thanks for the offer and advice. I did find a previous photo I had which with close inspection did show how the blue component was soldered. However it still didn't work. I don't think it helped falling off my work bench. Had a couple more goes but no luck but managed to source a very reasonable priced used one. Tatty outer case and bezel. Have shaped mine over and now have a good looking working rev counter. Now it's solved do I need to close this topic. Unsure how to do this as from is very new to me.

It's a copy of smiths so probably a euro version as you say. Hopefully it can be adjusted

Could be a possibility as you can read the resistance as you move the sender arm. Not sure how that would effect the empty reading. Have found the gauge is empty 10 ohms and full is 180 ohms. The sender is 16 ohms empty and 244 ohms full. How you adjust the gauge is the question. Might bit the bullet and take gauge apart and see what's inside.

My herald has been fitted with a number of gauges at some time in its life. I have been tidying up some of the wiring. Gauges I guess are possible out of a spitfire. The voltage stabiliser has been disconnected and there is separate circuit board voltage stabiliser Wired in to provide power to the separate gauges. The gauges all work apart from the fuel gauge. It does work and goes to full when just power is connected. As I believe its to do with the different resistance. The fuel sender is the bayonet type and looks brand new. I can't see anywhere to adjust it. Its not a smiths gauge so there are no holes allowing you to adjust it. It's back to the drawing board and maybe some Googling.

Thanks all. My job for the weekend to check out. It would be good if it had overdrive as it this is what heralds really needed. If it has then will need some further advise on switching and wiring. A question for the future.

Good Evening Yet Again I notice on my herald there is a pair of wires coming from where the gearbox is. There are green and green brown. See attached photo. Any idea what they are for. Thanks in advance Martin

Good Evening Again I have another query this time regarding a fuel gauge. I sure I have read somewhere you can match your sender unit to your gauge by adding in a resister ??. The herald sender reads 16ohms and 244ohms empty / full. The gauge reads 132 ohms. Any ideas please. Thanks in advance Martin

Good Evening the Forum Does anybody have a picture of the circuit board inside a smiths rev counter or know how the board is wired. I was trying to tidy mine up. The dial was loose and the white inside was looking a little tatty. Unfortunately I undid all the screws and it fell apart. I managed to refit the circuit board in its place and screw this back together. I tightened the dial faceplate which was loose. Painted the outer case and as I was putting back together noticed a couple of wires had come loose. A red and a black. I soldered them back and then found the blue component had fell off. What a day so I now have a great looking gauge but it's not working as unsure where this blue component should be soldered on. I know it's a long shot but maybe somebody may know how to repair it or maybe its down to the scrapyard. Incidents its out of a mk 3 spitfire. The ref RVC 2414/01F. I have picture pre the blue component falling off but its not good enough to tell where it should go. I don't even know what the blue component is. I think I got the black and red wires back correctly. I know I am clutching at straws. Thanks for any advice Martin

Right here we go again. Have posted about seatbelts for my First post and got a number of replies. Wanted to thank everybody for their advice but page keeps saying unresponsive so have no tried on something different hope it works this time and no long spaces. Right back to screen wash question. Am sure somebody had posted about removing the bellows and bonding in a push switch that would operate the electric pump. I can't find it know. If someone could point me in the direction. Have looked on ebay for bigger bottle but they look like they wouldn't fit so will need to be economical with the squirt. Thanks in advance Martin

Having just got my Herald after a number of years thinking about it I am at last ready to tinker with it in my garage at the weekend. First thing I would like to do is upgrade the front static seatbelts which are a pain when you stop to look at junctions etc. I have seen a number of articles on fitting to a convertible but my little Herald is a saloon. I don't want to go through the trim panel and fit to the rear arch if I can help it. The cars existing belt fits just behind the front seat. This however is not perpendicular above the floor mount so unsure if the inertia belt would work. I would be very grateful from the forum for advice on this. Hopefully have posted this correctly as it's the 1st of many questions I have Many Thanks Martin