Jezza
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Posts posted by Jezza
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Good stuff! I did the same last week and took the car out twice. First run was fine (that was after it being sat for two and a half months) and the second one started fine and then the Facet fuel pump gave up so I was stranded for a few hours.
But I too am amazed how friendly and willing people are to share experiences. While I was sat waiting for the AA four or five people started chatting about how they, their other half, etc had a triumph, MG, Rover, etc and the memories it brought back to them. They wished me well and carried on!
I was recovered 8 hours later 😐
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On 20/03/2022 at 18:29, Mike Costigan said:
If you carry spare items like fuel pump, rotor arm, distributor cap, etc, always fit the 'spare' to the car and carry the original as the spare - that way you know it's a working item. You would be surprised the number of times I have had to fit a new spare, especially electrical, only to find it is faulty!
V good suggestion, thanks!
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I have the Type 9 gearbox on my GT6 (I much prefer it to the previous, original 4 speed non-OD triumph unit). It’s made - or perhaps adapted to fit a Triumph - by Frontline Developments.
I bought it as a kit (gearbox, clutch and shortened prop shaft) but they may be able to supply the parts individually.
https://frontlinedevelopments.com/performance-parts/?vehicle_model=triumph
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Thanks all, I’ve already complained to the AA direct and it’s a good suggestion to let PJ know as well. I’ll do that this week.
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Thanks for the good suggestions - there’s definitely some things I’ll add to my tool kit and spare parts I carry, although I think carrying a spare alternator might be going a bit far!
On 20/03/2022 at 17:51, PeteH said:RAC personal recovery. Credit Card.
Pete
Errrr…… I tried this route and it didn’t work! Had to wait approx 8 hrs for a recovery that I had to organise myself!
On 20/03/2022 at 18:15, Pete Lewis said:picnic stove, kettle, mug ,tea bag , water etc.
Yes, well at least it’d make the wait more pleasurable! Given the British weather I might add a coat and umbrella to that list
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Following my tale of woe (see https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/9717-my-tale-of-woe/ for a full run down) it got me thinking about which spares I should carry.
I carry a basic set of tools (spanners, socket set, screwdrivers, pliers, etc) and I've now got a spare fuel pump and am thinking of carrying a spare solenoid, some indicator and brake bulbs, but is there anything else you'd recommend I carry with me?
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I had an MOT booked for my Mk2 GT6 so I thought with the nice weather it would be good to do a couple of runs in the car ahead of taking it in. First run last Tuesday was fine and everything worked well and I clocked up about 40 miles of A road driving, so not too onerous on the car following a couple of months parked up in the garage.
The second run started off fine but I noticed after about 3 or 4 miles that the revs were running slightly high (about 1,100) at idle. I gave it a couple of dabs on the gas to see if that would then settle it down but it was still running the same. I kept driving and about 5 to 6 miles later I got to a set of lights on the A21 (just by the Chapter One restaurant, in case anyone knows the Bromley, Farnborough, Orpington area) and the car started running rough when I set off, almost like someone had flicked a switch. I struggled to get any power but the revs were responsive but eventually about 200 yards further up the road it died and I was stuck on a double red line route at the point (immediately outside the PRUH) where the lanes narrow from two to one. Great! Just where people set off from the lights and race to get in ahead of the person in the other lane before their lane disappears.
After a bit of a panic I got the bonnet up and started looking for anything that might be out of place. Nothing on the road behind - no fluids, no parts dropped off - and no cables, wires or pipes lose or disconnected. After I scratched my head a bit and tried to work out what had gone on - and while trying not to be hit by said traffic caning it off the lights - I looked in the float chambers. Both barely had any fuel in (I had about 1/2 a tank in the car). Looked over the fuel lines to see if anything was disconnected - all connected and seemed fine. Next the fuel pump - roasting hot, but I assumed it would be just because it runs constantly. As it's a Facet electric fuel pump I assumed it is very reliable and with the regulator I have fitted it's been a very reliable setup. Anyway, after some faffing about it turns out the pump had packed up, and blown the 10A in-line fuse with it.
Typically I didn't have a spare fuel pump or fuse so I called the emergency breakdown line that come with the insurance (I'm with Peter James). Got though to the AA who sent a patrol van. He confined my though that the fuel pump had packed up after he tried a replacement blade fuse and it didn't yield anything positive. However, he couldn't recover the car back home as it doesn't have any toe eyes and can't be towed on their two wheel cradle as the GT6 isn't on their database of compatible vehicles and thus not insured if they cause any damage.
So instead he ordered a flatbed truck. Approx 1hr wait, which was fine and would make it 2.30pm. Weather was nice and the patrol helped my push the car into the PRUH entrance road off the A21.
70 mins went by and I called the AA back to see how long it would be.. ETA now 4.15pm. Argh, annoying but the suns still out, so no need to worry.
Tick tock, tick tock.
Called back at 4.30pm as still noone had arrived. "sorry, sir, ETA now 5.30pm. There aren't any vehicles available."
Having got so pissed off I googled local recovery firms, called a couple and they had availability and were less than 10 mins away. So I called the AA back who said those companies probably weren't in their network and therefore they couldn't use them. At this point the ETA had been removed and the AA told me noone was on their way to pick me up. But they could get a flatbed to me for 11.30pm. Yes, 11.30pm, 11 and a half hours after first calling them!
At this point I let the AA have both barrels and told them that I was organising the recovery with a local firm and they would be reimbursing me for the cost (£120 Inc vat, which I actually thought was quite reasonable). Reluctantly they agreed after I spoke to the supervisors supervisor.
On the way home I get chatting to the recovery van driver who said that his company had turned down my job twice.
"why's that?" I asked.
"The AA (and RAC, and others) only pay about 60% of what we'd usually charge, so we just decline the work". Oh great!
So, what's the point of the breakdown service if they won't actually recover the vehicle and I have to organise it myself? If it wasn't such a nice day I'd probably have complained earlier. Instead the customer is just left there like a lemon because the AA refuse to pay the third party's rates if they need to contract out the recovery work!
So much for the 4th emergency service!
Anyway I finally got home at 8.30pm with the help of Roadrunners recovery (who I'd highly recommend if you find your self stuck in the AA's web of woe!
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9 hours ago, Iain T said:
I've been bored for pretty much the last year, can you tell us why you are changing back to standard AF? I ask because I've just drained my system to fit a new water pump.
Iain
Haven't we all!
Well, OK, you asked for it!
As you mention in a later post, 4life will find any weak spots in your system - my guess is that most coolants will do so too..?
Anyway, I had a leak from the rad that I couldn't identify the source for. So I took it to a garage to see if they could. They did, and also identified a small weep. Neither could be fixed apparently because the solder wouldn't 'take' and they thought the reason was because of the waterless coolant (that they mistakenly assumed was Evans). They mentioned that if it had been regular water based coolant they could have just applied heat and the water would have evaporated and then the solder would 'take'.
I'm haste I assumed 4life might have caused the leak, but as you mention Iain, it's probably just found a weak spot. And so the thought of switching back to regular water based coolant came to mind and conundrum of whether I could having gone with 4life.
... and there you go. I hope it's filled a gap in your Friday evening
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Thanks Colin. I thought I'd ask 4Life directly as well, so I phoned their technical helpline (on their website) and asked them what would be needed if I wanted to revert to regular water based coolant if currently using their product. The chap's response was simply "flush it through and refill with the coolant of your choice".
He mentioned the fact that you can add water to the 4Life coolant if you're in a bind and don't have any to hand (roadside breakdown, stone through rad, lose hose, etc) and also mentioned that the product has a different composition to Evans waterless coolant. Evans apparently doesn't work with water, so you can't add water if you need a quick top up (disclaimer: I have no experience with Evans).
He also mentioned there there could be some confusion between their product and the Evans product because Evans had branded or marketed their product as 'for life' and hence people confuse the two.
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Hi all,
I've read the debate on here and other forums about waterless vs water based collant, so not looking to reopen that debate.
I currently have 4Life coolant in my standard GT6 Mk2 and want to revert to the standard water based AF (long story, which I won't bore you with!)
I've been told that it isn't possible to convert back to water based AF as residue from 4Life remains in the cooling system even after extensive flusing and refreshing.
Is this correct? Or is it possible to go from 4Life to regular water based coolant with, perhaps, a cleanser and extensive flusing of the system?
Thanks
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I had a similar problem with my modern car (E46 M3) and the garage I took it to said that the piston seal had failed leading to grit and grime getting in between the piston and the caliper housing (where the piston moves back and forth). A common problem on these cars apparently.
It causes the outer side of the piston to become scared or marred to the point that it retains the grit and grime and eventually seizes. The only solution was a complete rebuild of the caliper (and likely continual rebuilds from time to time to clear the grime out) or a replacement. In addition, as this seizure had been happening for a couple of months the heat build up caused by constantly having the brake applied meant the disk was beginning to warp and the pads were starting to degrade due to excessive heat (the disk was reading over 250 Celsius after a 30 min drive compared with 37 Celsius for the other side). An eye watering repair cost (for the car it is) for a caliper, 2 disks and pads, but a quick one to do.
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Also worth considering is the Hilliers fundamentals of automotive electronics. Not sure if it's still printed, maybe it is. I have an old version I bought from the library when they were renewing their stock and selling of the old stuff. Best 35p I spent!
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good to see thoughts on this , but i think you would be best to ask that directly of the COM rather than on forum
Possibly. I'm not trying to make this personal - far from it. But it would be good to hear the thought process behind the decision. Chris has been good enough to explain the decision above, which I respect. My question goes to how we move forward - if, as Chris suggests, there will need to be a review of the club shop activities it would be good to know how that will work.
Also, I would expect these questions would be ones that would be permissible at the AGM or other club meeting. I wasn't able to attend and I'm sure there are others too who weren't.
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As you are all aware the Tssc made a big loss in 2015 and the Council of management have been working very hard to try and turn this around .
Last year 2016 we managed to bring the figures in at a five thousand pound profit , after speaking to the Accountants we reduced our stock figure by seven thousand pounds to a realistic level,
This took the years figures into a two thousand pound loss a huge turn around from the previous year.
The Com are voted in by the membership to run the club in a correct fashion and to make the right decisions to make sure the Tssc is in a good a financial place as it can be.
In February 2017 the Com felt that we needed to put the club into a consultation period to look at in detail all the outgoings and incomings of the Tssc.
The staff where told of this in the correct manner to adhere to these delicate processes.
In the 1990s the club had 15,000 members now twenty years later the club has a steady 5,500 members but with the same overheads of the halcyon days .
This cannot continue if we all want the club to survive into the future.
Com have made the decisions and enforced the actions that we have cut the hours of one sub contractor and lost the other one entirely ,the club shop is no longer viable to have a full time shop manager this position has now been made redundant , our shop manager has been offered a part time hours position which has been declined.
The club shop will be run by the rest of the team for a six month period whilst we look at ways of improving our on line capabilities as well as what is sold in the shop.
All of these decisions have taken many hours of consultation with no knee jerk reactions.
Should any one want to discuss this with me please in the first instance email at chairman@tssc.org.uk ,
The timing of the release of this news was first spoken about at the Agm last Sunday , we are now putting it up on the Forum as the official point of contact with the membership as well as it being in a future Courier.
As you will all be aware this is a very sensitive issue to all the people that it affects and has only been done to protect the future of our great club .
Yours sincerely on behalf of the council of management
Chris Gunby
My understanding is that (i) the club shop is one of the larger sources of revenue for the club, and (ii) the performance of the club shop was one of the main factors leading to the club almost breaking even from a sizable loss the previous year.
If these are true, can I ask two questions:
* why it was the shop manager position that needed to be made redundant? and
* if undertaking a review of what the club shop sells and how it markets its products wouldn't it be useful, possibly fundamental, to the success of that review to have the person who understands the club shop back-to-front to be part of that review?
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I usually get modern underfelt from any scrapyard. Sells for pennies if not free and is totally waterproof; the more 'luxury' car you source it from the thicker it usually is and the better for soundproofing. Many scrappies just throw it in their skips so you can sort through for the big bits that can then be cut to size.
Great tip! Although I've already shelled out on some Dynamat and have it in my garage waiting to be installed...
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I bought a Halfords Advanced battery today for my GT6 (440 CCA & 50Ah rather than the rather shoddy 250 CCA & 35Ah I had before which was leaking). The power at start up is amazing in comparison and the idle speed is much more stable even when the Kenlow kicks in. £69 well spent I think.
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Very helpful, Richard (and others too!)
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Thanks for your thoughts on this. I do like the mobile axel stands solution which Richard posted which looks the cheapest and (more importantly) the least likely to fail. I've been doing minor jobs which don't need me to be under the car (eg rebuilding front suspension) with traditional axel stands and that's worked fine. I'm now considering replacing the gear box which will involve a lot more work and time (and no doubt swearing) under the car.
Interestingly, these mobile axel stands are cheaper on flea-bay than direct via CJ Auto's website!
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...for sale in County Armagh?...
...can't be bothered to push a car out into the sunshine for some decent pics! ...
Sunshine in NI?? Get away with ya'!
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For some time i've been a bit worried about getting under my GT6 while it's on axle stands. Maybe it's just me but the spread of the feet on axle stands just doesn't seem to be enough to cope with a bit of vigorous pulling and pushing at the car (in relation to seized bolts only
) and have been thinking of some kind of lift alternative. The main problem is that I don't have any electricity in my garage so it would have to be a manual solution. I happened upon this on flea-bay when searching for something completely unrelated (that's never happened before, honest)Is this something which would work with a GT6 chassis? A lot of these lifts seem to be aimed at modern cars where they have jacking points at the edges of the vehicle, but at the rear the jacking point is between the rear wheels or on the diff, and the contact points for this lift look like they would be on the tub.
Anyone have experience with these? I would feel a lot safer getting under the thing with the car on one of these lifts!
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I can only comment on the seat pads, foams and straps which I purchased from Newtons (club shop didn't stock them when I redid my seats) for my mk2 GT6. They were very good and service was too. I reused the seat covers because they were in good nick, but it was a pain to fit the old seat covers over new foams so a lot of coffee, swearing and head scratching ensued. Using a hairdryer to soften the vinyl helped considerably as did the use of decent glue!
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Excellent video. Makes and engine rebuild look a doddle, which I'm sure it isn't
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I won't be salvaging the carpet part! It's completely threadbare especially on the RHS of the 'box tunnel where the drivers leg rests. I might try and salvage the gaiter part and use that with the new carpet... somehow. I'll have a look and see how it could be done.
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http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/fuelhose.htm
Here, s site which spells out the specs
R9 is generally considered favorite
pete
Excellent site Pete, thanks for posting this. Daft question possibly, how would I identify if my fuel hose is an R9? Is it printed on the hose?
GT6 Mk1 Boot latch issue - boot springs open when driving over bumpy road surfaces
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Agree with this. I had the same issue on my Mk2 and found that the edge of the nylon block had rounded over the years meaning the latch found it easier to slip back over the nylon block and for the boot lid to fly open especially when i hit pot holes or went round a corner at speed (I guess there was a small amount of torsioning in the car body which assisted it to open). Haven’t had a problem since I changed the nylon block. And I didn’t need to reposition it either, just a straight swap.