John Bonnett
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Posts posted by John Bonnett
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Can you recommend an adhesive John? Was poised to just use regular Evostik
I've bought it from Wayside Adhesives. Will have to wait until we get some hot weather to see how effective it is. Here is the link;http://www.waysideadhesives.com/HTA1000-Brush-on-1kgr--10_prod.php
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One thing I would add is to use a high temperature adhesive. I didn't and after experiencing 35 degrees in France everything became unglued.
I'd certainly second Park Lane. Quality materials and comprehensive fitting instructions for all their products.
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Morning Mat
I've always wanted to have a go at making a bumper and a MK1 rear might be a a nice one to start with. I would need a pattern which would not be damaged. If this is of interest please let me know. There would be no charge. It's my hobby and I thoroughly enjoy metal shaping. At the moment things are a bit quiet
I could make it in steel in which case you would need to have it chromed or if just decorative in aluminium which could be polished.
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Worth contacting Owen Springs in Rotherham. They made my GT6 rotoflex spring and I found them good to deal with and very obliging. Chances are that they have built Courier springs before and could do one for you at a reasonable price. Same with the fittings. Worth a phone call.
Another possibility that I have heard good reports of
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Hello All
I am in the process of rebuilding my Spitfire differential, I purchased a kit of bearings and seals to do the job.
But I have a problem the output shaft seals supplied are 1.062" i/d x 1.625" o/d x 0.375 but were the seal sits on my shafts is 1.125" dia.
I contacted the supplier but they say this is what they have always supplied?
So are they wrong or do I have some non standard output shafts?
Looking on various sites they all list as part no 117952.
The number on old ones is MFC SOAO 1300
Roger
Hello Roger
As I understand you, the new seals are about 63thou undersize and I would have thought that should be right for a lip seal. I'd be interested to hear what our Gurus have to say.
rgds
John
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You could fit a 3.27 diff which would make a big difference to noise level and the way the car eats up the miles.
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The other aspect of the conversion that would concern me would be the inevitable twist of the upright under braking and acceleration. The spring is absolutely solid in the lateral direction and would prevent any deflection but the top link of the PRI system is pivoted. This cannot be as rigid as the transverse spring so in my view an upper tie rod in addition to the lower one would be essential.
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The wheels are now sold
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I am not qualified to pronounce on the engineering, but Frankly the fact that the spiel reads like something that has been mangled by Google translator would make me suspicious, as does the obvious thought that if this is such a simple fix for the well-documented problems of small cassis Triumph IRS, how come no-one else has thought of it before?
Regards
Steve C
Ah, but is it a fix? All they've done as has been said is to substitute the transverse spring for a coil spring. The drive shaft still has only one universal joint and the wheel still subject to camber change. The advantage of the transverse spring is that it applies loading centrally on the upright whereas the coil spring will give an uneven loading. So to my mind this is a retrograde step for a lot of money.
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The saloon flywheels and GT6 flywheels are different in weight; I used a saloon one in my GT6 for some years and it made the engine a lot smoother. I still have it but sadly carriage to you would be horrendous, otherwise you're welcome to it.
Not as bad as one might think Colin. Twenty six pounds on a 3 day plus service according to the Parcels2Go site. This is based on a notional 15kg parcel 50cm x 50cm x 25cm and Dungannon post office post code to my home Sorry for interfering but what else is there to do on a day like today?
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I am about to take a set of these off my 13/60 and they are 5.0J x 13 ET 20 66 bore which fitted without any problems and replace them with old fashioned steels.
Did you have a problem with the alloys Chris?
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Hi John - You have ordered the same make & size I've been looking at, where did you buy yours from? What colour did you go for?
Hi Aidan - A bit of research and looks as if the Freelander M12 stud (Part No. CLP9037L) is the easiest & cheapest to get hold of, so will shop around for those.
I bought them from John Brown Wheels Darren. Mine are silver with polished rims. They look good and have been beautifully packed.
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I'm sure I've seen this question asked before on here, but couldn't seem to find the answer.
When buying 5J x 13 alloy wheels, what would be the correct offset?
Hi Darren, quite by coincidence my set of alloys arrived today. These are JBW Minilite style and they are 5.0J x 13 ET20 66 bore. Made to suit the Spitfire.
I've not got a car here to try them but i hope and believe they are correct.
regards
John
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I have to say i take my hat off to Roger for making such an excellent job of the veneering. Having tried it myself and failed miserably, I've sent the trial dash to Messrs Chapman & Cliff for their expert attention. I just cut mine from a piece of ply that I had handy but it is three mms too thick. The new one that they are going to make will be in the correct 9mm Birch ply that Triumph used originally and veneered. Apertures for the speedometer and tachometer will be rebated so it should look very nice.
The clocks themselves are a mishmash so they are going to be replaced with new Smiths Classic instruments so that they will all match each other and look as if they belong. This was a cheaper option than modifying the rev counter and petrol gauge to match the speedometer.
I've just collected quite a few bits from the powder coaters which is always very pleasurable. I take them a boot full of rusty metal and it comes back looking like new. This was particularly true of the seat baskets which have come out really nicely. I'm now ready for the delivery of the new foams and seat covers so that we can get on and rebuild the seats.
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I know this is not the place to advertise but I've got exasperated trying to log in without success to the for sale board. So at the risk of antagonising the mods, apologies in advance but here goes;.
I have advertised on Ebay an as new set of MWS chrome wire wheels, spinner, spline adapters, nuts, and mallet. I would prefer them to go to a TSSC or CT member and will pull them out of the auction so long as I have no bids.
They offer a huge saving over new. Price Seven hundred and twenty five pounds.
If you are interested please move fast. There area lot of watchers so it won't be long before bidding starts.
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That's very interesting, electrical faults are not uncommon on my car
and it maybe a fault however, I still can't see the switch. has anybody got a picture?Hi Doug, if you take off the plastic cover you should find a single purple wire going to one side of the roof lamp bulb and two purple and white wires which are joined together. One of those goes to the tailgate switch and the other to door and dash switches. Each switch completes the circuit by earthing. I hope that is of some help to you.
rgds
John
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I reckon the OE manufacturer of the switch is Linread. This is not quite the same but looks like it would fit.
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I hope these pictures help
regds
John
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I had a look at mine, the central light and ignition key lamp come on when the door is opened or the dashboard switch switched but, not when rear hatch opened. The mk3 wiring diagram shows a hatch switch but I wouldn't take that as gospel. Mine's a late mk3 after Feb 73 upgrade. There were a lot of changes, Sundym glass, cloth seats, no rotoflex, servo as standard etc. So I wouldn't be surprised to see the boot switch gone, I can't see a switch where it's described to be, nor a hole for one.
I had a late non roto MK3 and the roof light came on with the doors opened and/or with the tailgate open.
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A really great job Roger. It looks fantastic and a credit to your skill and patience. I've just sent mine off to Chapman and Cliff. Defeatist or what?
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Thanks all, I'll have a look later if I can bring myself to go out through the snow! John, is the switch, if fitted, located under the plastic hinge cover, because otherwise it is not immediately visible? The roof light does not operate when you open either the doors or switch on the dashboard switch - perhaps as simple as no bulb.
Unfortunately Euan my car is away for painting and I cannot be sure if the plastic covers the swich. But even with the plastic cover in place I think you should be able to see the switch if it's there. If it is missing, there will be a round hole about 15mm diam where it should be. As the tailgate closes the left hand hinge pushes the plunger on the switch in, breaking the circuit and putting the light out. Perhaps a GT6 owner could take a photo which as they say is worth a thousand words.
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First of all, can you check that the tailgate switch is fitted? It pushes into a hole in a bracket associated with the left hand tailgate hinge.
The switch is just a simple plunger that completes the earth when the tailgate is open.
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It might be worth asking each supplier where the spring was manufactured.
and it maybe a fault however, I still can't see the switch. has anybody got a picture?
Fuse Box
in Electrical System
Posted
Now might be an appropriate moment to consider fitting more fuses and protection. In the event of a short circuit, the insulation on the low rated cables will melt and burn before the three twenty or thirty Amp fuses blow.