John Bonnett
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Posts posted by John Bonnett
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The chassis has plates with pulleys that swivel ,they pivot where I think the herald pulleys are fitted ,but because of the plates around 6" long miss rotoflex couplings, the cable has crimped on ends like an original cable, doesn't seem modified, so thinking it must be from a different model
Could it have been a special cable supplied by Spartan for their kit? Once you know what length you need, Speedy Cables can make one up for you with the ends off your cable.to suit the car.
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I would just like to say how pleasing it is to me and I'm sure the webmaster how busy this forum is becoming. There are quite a lot of current topics all with a good interchange of ideas and opinions between members. And of course we have our gurus to keep us on track which is great.
For many of us our only contact with each other on a regular basis is the forum and I regard it as meeting up at the local for a chat. So it is a really important feature for me especially as I will not have anything to do with Facebook.
I would also like to thank Kevin not only for the hard work he has put to make the site so easy to use but also for his patience in fielding all the questions from numpties like me when we have trouble.
All very good.
John
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Just got home. Still got bubbles...
New thing though, the rear most external head nut was bubbling from the thread!?
Henry, Every day, I've been living this problem with you. I guess now we can probably guess the answer to the bubbling. Although it is an odd coincidence that it should happen immediately after flushing the system.
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.. and give me a chance to take another look at the tensioner knob and speak to the club shop if they don't turn!
Are you sure they are not fully tightened Jerry. It would be unusual if both were faulty I would have thought.
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You are welcome Jerry. As you are going to remove the dampers from the car to fit the locking rings you might find it easier to wind the spring seats up off the car and make the final adjustments when fitted. I found that the C spanner fouled the suspension and it was quite difficult to turn the rings.
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Am sure your fed up with opinions but hope you take it in good spirit as its got us all talking and is a fantastic project!
Not at all Duncan. This project has been a make it up as you go along effort right from the start and people expressing their opinions have given me fresh ideas and not a little encouragement. So, please keep them coming.
I've now started the MK2 inner wings. The originals though effective don't in my opinion suit the rest of the car mainly because they are angular and not curved. They are the only straight lines on the whole of the body. The picture shows the buck which is not quite finished and the first piece of formed aluminium. I made this piece using the wheeling machine. Two further pieces are needed which once finished will be welded together to make the panel.
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Jerry I've attached a couple of photos which I hope may be of help. The first, shows the position of the spring seat on a standard damper. It is about 95mm from the spring seat to the centre of the bush sleeve. So from your picture it does look as if you need to wind your up by quite a bit.
The second picture shows the position of the spring seat with 330 pound springs. These have an open length of 9.5 inches.
The adjusters on mine face the centre of the car and are very easy to adjust.
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Is the GT6 meet definite?
Can't speak for the others but I'll be there.
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Jerry, I would suggest you start with fully soft and work from there. Mine are set to two clicks off fully soft and they are fine. Subjective I know and worth a bit of experimentation until you find a setting that suits you.
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John
Why didn't. I I think of disconnecting the multiplug! I was soldering all around it. Oh well you can't be bright all of the time.
Alan
Hindsight's a wonderful thing Alan and there's always a smartarse there to rub it in. Sorry
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Andy
I've just upgraded my GT6 with a 16 way fusebox. In hindsight a 20 way would have been ideal. Like John I've amended the standard wiring diagram to show where all the new fuses go. I'll post links to them when I get back from holiday.
I used soldered bullet connections throughout and cheated with the wiring by using an old TR loom to maintain the correct colour coding.
Splitting the circuits up fully will require some contorsionism behind the dashboard if you are going to attempt this with the loom in situ Splitting the green (ignition controlled) and red(secondary lighting) circuits,requires sticking the soldering bolt deep inside the dash. With care it can be done. There's no way you'll get a crimping tool into the space.
Finally the quality of glass fuses is suspect to say the least. Much better with the modern blade fuses.
Good luck, it's well worth the effort.
Cheers
Alan
I totally agree Alan, it is well worth doing on all levels. Once the wires to the original fusebox are disconnected it's an easy matter to remove the under dash loom by separating the plug and socket connector (to the rear loom) and work on it on the bench. This makes the job a whole lot easier than try to work under the dash.
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Hi John,
Wouldn't changing the colour now, mean you have to repaint all the underneath etc ?
A very shiny silver would look cool, but I have grown to like the idea of the GT4 lightweight in French Blue, maybe with a very thin pin stripe.
if you wanted to keep it in Aluminium could you just polish it and then have it clear coated in a lacquer to protect it?
Aaron
It is going to be French Blue Aaron but I was just interested in what it would have looked like red. Polishing is not an option because there are too many flaws in my panels apart from the practicalities of corrosion. But for the moment, it will stay as it is because there's a busy time ahead. We are competing in the Coupe Florio speed hill climb at the end of August, staying in France and taking in the race at Angouleme towards the end of September. So we are looking at the painting over the Winter which will tie in nicely having the use of the car in the decent weather.
So that's the plan. I'm taking it up to the Retrorides gathering at Shelsey Walsh and will see how it goes up the hill.
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Would love to get my hands on this too..! A little way off wiring still, but I've been thinking about the limitations of the original loom too...
PM sent
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Colours are very subjective and so many suit the shape of our cars. I think Triumph got that bit right. My friend has a Mimosa MK3 GT6 which looks really lovely. Red certainly suits the car as well and was my first choice until I went to Spa where every other car was Rosso Red. That didn't put me off but I just wanted to be different. My GT6 was French Blue which I also like very much and is I suppose my second choice. Once the car is painted it may lose some of its individuality and some may even think it's fibreglass but I don't think leaving in bare aluminium is practical if the car is to be used in all weathers.
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Thanks John,
Can it be sent over the internet?
Doug
PM sent Doug
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John,
Wow! I would LOVE to see that!
Is it easy to put on the inter web?
Doug
I can send you a copy Doug with pleasure.
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Just in case it might be of interest, I have drawn out the circuit diagram that I designed for my GT4 and I'd be pleased to let any member have a copy. All the higher consumption circuits are relayed and each circuit protected by appropriately rated fuses. In all, there are nine relays and twenty three fuses. It all works fine and I'd be more than happy to share it with you.
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A couple of Photoshopped images
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John,
Hopefully there is a picture attached!
I made my own side panels based on the tatty originals and they fit fine. I also fitted 4 point harnesses (the price was right) and they have proved less awkward than expected.
Dick
Thank you very much Dick. I'm really pleased the interior can be retained. I have a Jigsaw cage and I'll offer it up. Will report back.
Thank you once again
John
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Depends what you mean by 'further away'? Similar to John's comment, after all these years the basic body tub may have shifted and if the rear wheel arches have been replaced or the floor repaired then again the dimensions may not be quite correct. I had a similar situation on my GT6 roll bar (Jigsaw) but found once I had started to tighten bolts up it all came together, not least if you make sure you are using good sized washer/packing pieces on the exterior side of the wheel arch.
Hope that helps
Dick
Morning Dick, I just wondered if when the Jigsaw cage is fitted if there is room for the rear upholstered side panels and inertial seat belts.And if you have any pictures of it installed I'd really like to see them. Thank you.
Sorry for the thread drift.
John
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Could it be that your car has spread? I noticed this on my GT6. The cross rail that supports the front of the boot floor was too short and needed an extension.
Just a thought
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How can anyone seriously expect to get top price for a car that is presented in that state. He couldn't be bothered to remove the can of WD40 on the scuttle, vac out the interior and fit the carpet he says he has.
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From what you describe Graham it sounds exactly like the pre-engaged starter fitted to my 1500 Dolomite engine. If so, they are very rare, only fitted to the one model, and yours could I'm sure be very useful to a Dolomite 1500 owner.
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Ah that's a shame. I forgot to mention that if anyone is planning on going, could you please let me know so that i can pass your name(s) on.
Thank you
John
Adjustable front suspension - GT6 mk2
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted
Good news Jerry. Another job done.