John Bonnett
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Posts posted by John Bonnett
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Following on from the above, I next tackled the gearbox cover, bulkhead and scuttle (inside the cabin). The gearbox cover was treated with a high temperature material and supplied with fixings that increase its adhesion rating from 100C to 130C. On the bulkhead and scuttle I applied two layers; a Dynamat like product followed by a 10mm thick closed cell foam. This produced a further significant improvement. The last photo shows the footwell works started.
Speed (mph) Before insulation (db) Bonnet insulated (db) Gearbox cover/bulkhead (db)
50 83 82 79.7
60 83/84 84 79
70 85/86 84/85 82
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It has been quite a while since I added an update on the Lightweight but I just wondered if my latest campaign to reduce cabin noise level and thus improve the driving experience might be of interest.
I've tried to carry out the work methodically taking noise measurements at each stage in order to assess the effects. I started with the bonnet putting two layers of material; one to remove the drumming and the second to damp the noise. I felt for a long time that the booming sound was coming from the bonnet. It's worth noting that the decibel scale is logarithmic so a reduction of just one is a ten times improvement.
So, here are the results;
Speed (mph) Before insulation (db) Bonnet insulated (db)
50 83 82
60 83/84 84
70 85/86 84/85
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Sounds like you'll be needing to do a bit of road work yourself when you get back to offset all the calories you've taken on board.
Great pictures Clive. Glad all well. best wishes to you both,
John
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21 minutes ago, clive said:
Found cake, or at least strudel and custard, on top of Bernina pass. Glacier view from cafe.
And I have been called a hooligan. By part of our group. Something about overtaking going up to he passes. Should add down 25% due to altitude. That is about 45bhp lost, and missing it dearly.
Good boy. We like hooligans!
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Well done Clive. Keep the photos coming please. I have to admit I'm the tiniest bit envious.
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
Clive have a good trip
Pete
I second that Pete. Safe journey Clive and Gill. Cheers John
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I've been using the same Mann filters for over a year now. The anti-drain back device works really well and the oil warning light goes out pretty much immediately. Again, thanks to Clive for providing the adapter.
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For sure. Thank you for the heads up. I've just dropped Owen an email wishing him well. His work is to the highest standard and above all he's a very nice chap.
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I can't see a date either Gully but it is 17th September.
cheers John
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I would have asked them for a new type V5 and then, some time later, tell them I'd changed the engine and get a second new V5. I suspect it would go through without question.
My thoughts entirely Doug. One thing at a time works every time.
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Thanks Pete
I disconnected both terminals and connected a multi meter to them , pushed the horn and nothing ? Are both horns fused by the same fuse ?
It would be unusual to have an individual feed to each horn. Normally the feed continues from the first horn to the second.
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Hi Andy, good to hear from you.
I don't think the original double seal is available any more. I got my door seals from James Paddock and they seem to fit reasonably well.
rgds
John
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Aidan - you weren't wrong on them being hard to find! I rung around all the breakers and suppliers I could find, I was told by most, they haven't broken a GT6 mk1 or mk2 in years! However..
Clive - Thank you for your contact advice of Chic Doig, they had one of everything I needed! Pedal scuttle plate and all pedals, brake master plate, dash rear facia panel, passenger foot plate, battery box and steering column bracket. So I bought the lot as they seem to be as rare as rocking horse doo doo.
Just a new wiring loom and steering rack, but both of these will be new when it comes to it.
Pete
A good result Pete. you now have work in progress!
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A very expensive way of owning a GT6. Great if you want a project but how many hard to find bits are missing.
£20K will buy you a worthwhile Mk1. I doubt this will get on the road for less.
I agree. It is a chancy thing to do to buy a car that's in pieces because as you say, you have absolutely no idea what parts are missing and that could be a big problem with a MK1. And 20k is easily spent on a restoration.
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That's a very good point Aidan and probably more important than the rhd scuttle. We made a new scuttle for the Lightweight which was fairly straightforward given that I have a folder and swager but the panel behind the dash might be a bit more challenging.
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Hi Pete, thank you for posting the pictures. How nice to see a virtually rust free shell requiring little in the way of serious work.A great find.
As far as restoration goes, it's good to have a plan and work methodically. I would try to avoid the temptation of unscrewing and removing every single component. and reducing the car to a pile of bits and jam jars full of nuts and bolts. I've found that it's good to put the screws back in the holes. This avoids the possibility of things being lost and forgetting where and how they were fitted when the time comes to put everything back together. So, if you are planning on removing the body, to do the chassis I would leave it fitted as far as possible. You may want to try to get the engine started before you do anything to see how it sounds. It may be fine and not need any work.
You mention wiring and you are quite right. There will never be a better opportunity to rewire the car and fit a few more fuses and relays. The original system of just three fuses isn't satisfactory and does make the car vulnerable to an electrical fire and other problems. Many of us have done this and there's a lot of information if you do a search.
Have a look over on the Club Triumph forum Club Torque. There are a number of GT6 restorations recorded there which I think you might find helpful to refer to.
The above comments are based on my own experiences having done a few restorations and I hope they will be helpful. If not, please disregard them
regards
John
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but you can't get to the slip ring (or the wire arrached to it) without removing the wheel.
.Quite right but but is there any need to?
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No, there should be no need to dismantle the column. If the horn is operated by pressing the centre push, it acts on a graphite pencil in contact with a slip ring. The slip ring connects either to one side of the relay coil (if fitted) or one side of the horn. Pressing the horn push completes the earth through the steering column at the rack end of which should be a cable to an earthing point on the chassis.
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LHD cars sell at a premium in Europe, perhaps 30% more than a RHD in the UK so perhaps that might be a consideration when thinking about a conversion. From a practical point of view the main works will be modifying the scuttle and bracing to interchange the master cylinders and battery box.,
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A very neat job Aidan. Well done.
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I'm thinking of a canvas print - it's my birthday in a fortnight and after all the 'presents' I've bought the car this year I reckon I deserve one myself!
Gully
You definitely owe it to yourself
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A great picture; really sharp and catches the atmosphere. One to be framed perhaps?
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I have always used Speedy Cables and have never been disappointed. However, people speak very highly of Richfield Speedograph who may well be a bit less expensive. Here's a link. I hope it helps and that you get suited
.http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/html/inst_repairs.html
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Great pictures Clive. Glad all well. best wishes to you both,
Improving the driving experience
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
One thing I forgot to mention is the total sealing of the bulkhead and scuttle from the engine bay. The PeaceMat underlay has covered every possible leakage point and this coupled with the insulation on the inside and outside of the gearbox cover should mean little or no heat transfer from the engine bay. The effectiveness of the materials is demonstrated by touching the outside of the bonnet above the exhaust manifold after a run; stone cold.
I've not finished yet. The floor area is next. It already has a layer of Dynamat which damps the drumming but needs ccf to reduce noise. That will be the final job. I'm very pleased with the result so far which has definitely made conversation much easier and the drive more pleasurable.