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Posts posted by John Bonnett
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It sounds like a wiring fault and not pre-ignition. Volts are still getting to the coil after switch off from the ignition warning light circuit. A diode in that cable should do the trick.
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Hi
Does anyone know if the shop can supply a set of Magnecor HT leads for a 2500 engined spitfire with the ignition coil mounted on the bulkhead rather than on the engine block?
Thanks
I think it's a really good idea to move the coil to a cooler place. I did consider doing this on my GT6 and gave Magnecor a call. I found them very helpful and they would have done a king lead for me to my specified length. I didn't proceed because I sold the car shortly afterwards.
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Hello Ian. A very warm welcome. Please don't be sorry for mentioning other Marques. We are all part of a Classic car brotherhood of which there are many different makes and models but we all have the same aims and interests; to use them and enjoy them.
There are some very good people here on this forum who have between them many years of Triumph related experience and only too ready to offer sound advice and a helping hand. It is well worth contacting your local TSSC Group if you haven't already. That way you won't feel isolated and ploughing your own furrow when things get difficult.
I do hope you manage to acquire the Spitfire and look forward to reading about your progress as the project moves forward.
Kind regards
John
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John,
Thank you; that's a very kind offer.
After much hopping from foot to foot indecisively I've finally taken the plunge and invested in an electric fan. I just need to get round to fitting it now.
I'll bear your offer in mind though in case I change my mind for whatever reason.
Thanks again...........
You are very welcome Dave. Pleased to help if I can.
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Dave if you can make a cardboard template of what you want including fixing brackets I should be able to fabricate a shroud for you in aluminium.
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A couple of pics of the lightweight after painting
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I like things nice and easy so very early on I decided to ditch the pin in favour of a more simple approach. I drilled and tapped the square shaft put a hole to suit in the winder handle and screwed it on.
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A really excellent price and what a good find Roger and best of all it's Made in Great Britain.
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Twelve Pounds should cover the carriage if you book through Interparcel or other on line agencies. I normally choose UPS who have been 100% reliable, door to door collection and delivery and up to 25kg for that figure.
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I believe the Club used to have a GT6 registrar who should have had a list of cars belonging to club members. It might be worth a phone call to Angie or Garth to find out if this is the case. If there is no list it would be a good thing to start on, I believe; something that many one make clubs offer.
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My friend had exactly the same problem with his GT6. Despite lagging the fuel pipe the problem persisted but to a lesser degree. It was finally traced to fuel boiling in the pump. A dedicated fan switched with the main fan was mounted on the side valence directing air to the pump. This has cured the problem.
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Jim, hello,
The main problem is access but the fitting and actuation of the latch and lock is quite simple and straightforward. The door handle assembly lips behind the door panel at one end and is held in place by the metal bracket shown in your picture. The bit of bent wire with the hook thing engages with another bit of bent wire on the door catch. The adjustable nylon prodder operates the catch and allows the door to open. I hope this is of some help but if it all seems a bit garbled well that's just the result of plenty of Christmas cheer I might be a bit more lucid in the New Year!
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You have incoming mail.
Thank you Clive. Perhaps I could give you a call.
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No worries. It doesn't look any bigger than other external pumps I have seen,
Happy to measure/weigh if needed.
Another thought, have you considered the CAV fuel filter, may help and act as a bit of a swirl pot too? But a bit heavier than a disposable filter.
Yes please Clive. That would be very kind if you could measure it. Any chance of a photo?
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John, there is a cossie 12mm pre filter, it needs to be big bore as the pumps are hopeless at sucking! But none are cheap.
As to pump, I have a pump here that may well be suitable, but checking. Not a repro, came with a pukka, brand new Deutz engine. Meant for diesel, but I am pretty certain they are OK with either fuel. 12mm inlet, 8mm outlet.Part no.04127127, but not a lot of info out there....However, used on commercial engines, and last forever....
Thank you Clive for your kind thought. The pump sounds a bit heavy duty for my application so I'll probably go for something a bit smaller. I had good results with an Astra GTE pump and filter on the Cosworth YB but they are probably a bit thin on the ground now. The Rally Design pump at nineteen pounds seems very good value so I may go for that.
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I'm sure all will be fine Roger but I can relate to a bit of tension just before putting volts on a freshly made and connected circuit particularly where there is an ecu involved.
I've got to make a tank but it won't be deep enough to house a pump so I have to have an external one.
I'm glad you are putting the milling machine to good use. A tremendous asset to the workshop.
The bike engine lies horizontal and mates to the Imp transaxle using a bespoke flywheel and cnc machined billet aluminium bell housing. An integral cush drive prevents any sudden shock loading through the transmission which is really good news. Power wise at 100bhp it is little more than a full house 998 engine but it should win hands down on cost and reliability. The great thing is that the engine has loads of low down torque and maximum power is at seven five which is much the same as an Imp and very different from a Sports bike.
John
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Matter of the moment for me now Roger. I'm going BMW K1100 power for the G15. I have been looking at Rally Design for both pump and filter.
http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=21806
http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=24012
I'd be interested to hear what you think about them.
I shall be using 8mm copper tube for both feed and return. I'll also be incorporating a swirl pot probably on the tank outlet in the form of a little box that will always be full of fuel. Pipes blowing off under pressure is a concern so a bit of thought needed for the unions on the pressure side. I shall be fitting an inertia switch to cut the pump off in the event of a crash.
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I've found that by starting an album here on this site, resizing and putting photos in works very well. You can then display the photos in your post full size rather than as thumbnails.
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It works for me Darren as of this moment.
John
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Yes true but the small bore tube in the photo as Pete rightly said is the one off the vacuum advance retard mechanism.
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It's always worth giving Tavistock Steve a ring. He can normally deliver and by working it in with one of his trips the charge is generally pretty reasonable.
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I'm using silicone fluid and it is fine on the road for sedate driving. For a track day it is a definite no no. The pedal will go down to the floor after a couple of laps.
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A great write-up of this year's Event in the Courier and having taken part in previous years I can thoroughly endorse everything that was said; a really enjoyable Event with hospitality that only the French can offer.. And moreover they love our cars and make us very welcome.
We are doing it and will be taking the Wednesday evening sailing from Portsmouth to Saint Malo. For anybody contemplating using Brittany Ferries I can arrange a 10% discount on the crossings. Hotels are filling up fast so best to book now if you are thinking of coming along.
John
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Hi
Recently fitted a new rear near side wing as part of a total restoration, I then go to remove the old petrol filler cut out to insert it into the new wing and find that its a home made job, so the recessing is poor quality and inconsistent.
Has anybody got an genuine old wing or filler cut out hanging about - will pay and travel to find a good example?
I will also be needing to get the renovated body tub stripped - what are the pros and cons of soda blasting , acid dipping and any other paint removal processes that anybody has experience of?
Regards
Kevin
Kevin I cut a rear wing section out containing the recess. It looks okay to me. Drop me a pm if of interest.
cheers
John
Spitty goes to Spain and Portugal
in General
Posted
Hi Roger, I've just picked this thread up. I'm very sorry to hear of your problem but as you say in the scheme of things no big deal. However it will be a great shame if it spoils your holiday. You haven't said what kind of noise the car is making. Please let us know what you find tomorrow.