John Bonnett
-
Posts
1,260 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
77
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by John Bonnett
-
-
Thanks John. Out of interest where did you get the bottom hose take off and other plumbing bits?
I made them Darren and when you are over I'm sure I could find enough material to make a take-off for you if it would help. I have a note of where I sourced everything and I can let you have all the details then.
-
That looks very much like the one I'm using Darren and by turning the thermostat cover through 180 degrees, a standard GT6 bottom hose will go straight on. The bottom hose on my installation also uses a GT6 bottom hose but with a take-off for the header tank.
-
now that is a very good idea
Aaron
Thank you Aaron I think it was worth the extra effort. The Smiths time clock is promised for tomorrow; the final instrument which I'll fit and then hopefully the dashboard can go in.
Martin reckons he will finish what he has to do on the bonnet tomorrow and in the meantime, he's sent me this picture.
-
1
-
-
The wiring is still rumbling on; a seemingly endless job. I decided just recently to give the dashboard its own loom and make it removable using plugs and sockets. I remember that almost every time I pulled the centre section of the dash on my GT6 forward one or other of the wires pulled off its terminal and remained un-noticed until one of the components was found not to be working. This should avoid that problem, I hope.
-
1
-
-
Both hose ports are on the right hand side on the MK2 Golf GTI radiator. Be careful when you buy to ensure that the radiator accepts 32mm i/d hose. I've used Adrad and found them to be excellent. Apart from the right angle bend on the header tank outlet all the hoses are Triumph on my installation.
-
I've had major problems getting the oil pump primed. Initially I tried cranking with the plugs out but I could not get any oil pressure. Eventually, I removed the distributor and the drive and spun the oil pump drive shaft with an electric drill in reverse. This did the trick in just a few seconds. Getting to this point has cost valuable time but at least the day finished on a high.
I'm using a Filter King in conjunction with the Facet pump and managed to get it mounted ready for plumbing in the fuel system.
-
1
-
-
Clive - thanks, I like the idea of the VW rad and plumbing in correctly, rather than modify existing. At those prices it's silly not to.
John - would love to come down and look at the set up you have, I'll PM you and we'll work something out.
Darren I would be delighted to see you and look forward to your PM.
-
Darren, if you want to add a header tank, I would be adding one which allows coolant to circulate through it which keeps removing air.
It nneds a 16mm takeoff in the bottom rad hose, and a small 6/8mm takeoff at the highest point, the thermostat housing.
And if doing that, just buy a vw polo rad as it would be cheaper than getting yours changed (I paid £16 delivered, they cope with engines exceeding 150bhp) which should fit quite easily in a herald with a few bits of flat steel bar. Just a thought!
Incredible value and efficient too. My Golf GTI radiator was £26 delivered.
Darren you are local to me and very welcome to pop over any time.
John
-
Not a Herald I know Darren but I have fitted a MK4 Astra header tank to my old GT6 and to the current one I'm building. I imagine the available space will be similar and that the Astra tank will fit nicely. In fact like it was meant to be. It is also available with a low level sensor which I have fitted.
-
The Dolomite pre-engaged started arrived today thanks to the generosity and alacrity of one of our Club members to whom I am absolutely indebted. It is now fitted and works perfectly allowing the project to move on.
I had a slight problem with the bottom hose touching the engine mount but by welding on another piece of stainless tube that gave a slight crank I now have clearance. The rest of the day was spent tidying up the pipe clamps holding the stainless pipes in place adjacent to the carbs.
-
1
-
-
John youve got some 3300+ hits on you project....just shows whats enjoyed
sorry i dont have a dolly starter
Pete
No problem Pete, Sue came up trumps. I just hope that the Dolly starter will turn the engine. if not...........well it doesn't bear thinking about at this stage.
In the meantime, I've been playing the plumber. All the hoses are Spitfire and GT6 apart from one.
-
1
-
-
I saw it on Facebook too john ;-) didn't realise it was for you.
The bonnet is looking great, hope you get thev starter motor problem sorted.
The starter should be here tomorrow Aaron; the moment of truth.
-
1
-
-
John,
You may still find that the engine is fitted with a Spitfire / Herald flywheel rather than a Dolomite 1500 one.
If I remember correctly, when converting an engine from Dolomite to fit a Spitfire, it is necessary to fit a Spitfire / Herald sump in place of the Dolomite one, so if the engine you have has previously been converted for a Spitfire / Herald, then the flywheel may also have been swapped at the same time.
Yes what I should have said Kevin is that the inertia starter wouldn't engage and it was this that has led me to believe that it is a Dolomite ring gear. Certainly there is no chamfer or lead in on the back of the teeth. The engine builder fitted a different block so I cannot use the engine number to double check. I have everything crossed that the Dolomite starter will do the trick.
-
1
-
-
A massive massive thanks to our own Sue Franklin. I've just discovered that my 1500 engine is from a Dolomite which has its own unique starter motor and nothing else will work. And they are extremely rare. I asked Sue if she could help me source one. She forwarded my email to the AOs and such is the power of the Triumph network, within hours of my request, responses were coming in from all parts. I now have not one but two starter motors on their way to me and I am so grateful to Sue for her help without which my project could have stalled for a good while.
What a good community we have.
John
-
2
-
-
Here's what I do Eddie.
Top right of page click on your name and click on My Gallery from the drop down menu. Click on Upload on the next page and it will ask you to create and Album. Once you have created your album, click on Upload and then Browse. Once you have found the image you want on your computer click on Open and then Upload. You can then put a new title if you wish followed by Review and Publish.
I hope this might help.
John
-
You should find a white and pink cable with a bullet connector sleeve which will give you the switched live and you can find a black earth possibly on an eyelet on the back of one of the instruments. The purple will probably be an unswitched live that among other things feeds the interior light.
-
Work on the bonnet is progressing and Martin sent me this picture of the two halves having been welded together. He is not finishing it, I have that pleasure but he'll be cutting out the wheel arches, and putting in the headlamp bowls. More pictures to follow.
I've continued with the wiring and now all the circuits work off the ignition key which is a major landmark. The overdrive and reverse light loom are yet to be finished together with the loom going to the front of the car but barring any unwanted surprises the worst should be over; I really hope so because the wiring has been an absolute marathon and I am so glad we are nearly done. A day or two more and then I can get to work on plumbing in the engine which is very exciting.
-
1
-
-
Indebted to you all for your interest and input particularly to Aaron for the graphics. The Italian connection notwithstanding I'm going for GT4 Lightweight; it flows and us Brits can understand what it says and means. I think Aaron's design look superb and at some point with his permission I'd like to go ahead and get a badge made.
A great number of people have contributed to this project in many ways and I'm seriously considering having a plaque naming them.
Again, with many thanks
John
-
1
-
-
Are the front side lights working? if so the feed from the switch is okay. If the side lights work but the rears don't you will find a multi plug connector up in the passenger glove box area. This connects the rear loom. Separate the plug and see if you have Volts on the red cable.
-
Let us not forget the original was styled by an Italian, now with added va va boom by Bonnett!
Quite right Steve. I love French but it cannot compete with with Italian so perhaps Aaron could substitute Alleggerita for Lightweight on the badge and see what it looks like. What a team!!!
-
1
-
-
léger or allégé in French or in Latin.inluminata
And I was decided on "Lightweight" but now you and Steve have got me thinking.
-
1
-
-
GT4A for Alleggerita? Bellissima!
Steve C
Italian is such a beautiful and evocative language. Alleggerita, lightened. Sounds very exciting.
Thank you Steve
-
1
-
-
How about this?
Now that I really like Aaron. Did you just design that? Fantastic
-
The rear lights on my mk1 spitfire go out when the lights are switched from dip to main beam. The car has been fitted with a Remax dip dim unit which I'm trying to see if I can disconect, however as far as I can see there is no direct connection with the main/dip selector switch and the rearlights. Any suggestions?
Many seemingly unconnected electrical problems are caused by bad earthing. That's what I would check first.
Aluminium bodied GT4
in My Triumph Restoration Project
Posted
It's been a great morning. The dashboard wiring is finished, the clock in and working and the dashboard fitted. I've also managed to connect up the handbrake cable. But most of all, the bonnet is ready to collect from Martin who has made an absolutely stunning job of it. It is not finished but the rest is down to me.
