Mashby

Just reviewed this after four months. To finish off, I did check for bits of rubber but there were none. Eventually after running the engine for a while I noticed a fuel puddle at the BACK of the car. Turns out I had another braided pipe Union from the fuel tank above the rear wheel that had failed and air was getting into the system that way. Moral is it always pays to check all the way along the system end to end. Now in December I am going to replace the fuel pump as the gasket has failed and it’s oozing fuel. What I need is the brass connectors to join the rubber to the pump on both sides (carb and fuel tank). I have looked everywhere but can’t seem to find them, any suggestions really welcome

Thanks I will check. I didn't think I had disturbed the line too much and there is only about four inches of rubber in total. I did check the diameter tonight as I thought it may be too small but if anything it's slightly larger than the copper pipe end

It's over 50 too. I only really noticed anything when it was opened up

About a month ago I posted that I had a fuel leak on the exit side of the pump. Got some good advice on the forum on how to fix it and so I ended up cutting the flared pipe end off and finding a screw fitment to go into the pump secured to the rest of the copper by rubber pipe and two jubilee clips. So far so good. However, I now seem to have a problem with the car between 40 and 50 mph when it runs spasmodically lumpy it really does judder as though it is threatening to cut out. This only seems to happen at this speed, it ticks over beautifully and can run around at lower speed quite happily. Has my fix given me another problem? Is the nozzle I fitted to the pump too small an aperture? I am scratching my head so any advice really appreciated

Many thanks is for all the advice. What I have been trying to find is another brass screw fitment the same as the one on the inlet to the pump as that has an extended nozzle which is joined to the copper fuel pipe by about 9 inches of rubber pipe. If I could get one of these then I could replicate this in the other side. So far I have been unable to find it. Any ideas where I could get one? (Tried rimmers and paddocks). I have even contemplated using a brass 1/4" garden hose fitting which may do the job

Thanks Darren, (looks like we have the same car btw) If the leak is in the flared pipe would the locktite or tape fix this round the thread I wonder? Still intrigued to know how you can " reflare" the pipe if this is where the problem is. Hoping someone could let me know

Thanks both. Right this is my poor description and misunderstanding. I assumed the copper pipe had an olive braised on but from what you both say, it's a flared pipe. I have never reflared a pipe so would need some advice. And the plumbers tape needs to be round the flare not the nut?

Hi all, I need some help. The fuel pump on my herald 1360 has a very minor, weepy leak on the exit pipe to the carb. It's right where the brass nut joins the copper pipe to the pump. I have tried putting a half turn on the nut which didn't work and then undoing the nut and using plumbers tape around the nut of the pump and around the fixed olive on the end of the copper pipe. This has been dry for about two weeks but as I checked this evening, it has started weeping again. Any ideas? I don't want to replace the pump and pipe if possible as this seems like overkill to me Any advice gratefully accepted Thanks

Many thanks for all the advice. I have adjusted the long hex nut on the adjuster rods which has solved the fouling problem, but there is still a lot of play when the drivers side catch is down. I may try packing out the catch on the side of the bulkhead as suggested. I assume the two bolt holes are threaded?

Hi, I am going quietly mad trying to get my bonnet to stop fouling on the door when it's open. It has been like this for a long while. The bonnet catches the drivers door when I open it and it's taking its toll on the leading edge of the door skin. When the bonnet catches are down the passenger side is fine it lines up nicely with the door and there is no play when you tug it. The drivers side when the catch is down, does not line up with the door (it looks to close to the body) and there is a lot of play when you tug it. I have tried adjusting the height of the rubber domes at the top to see if that changes things but no go. I have attached a couple of photos It is driving me mad. Any advice appreciated

Perfect! All clear now, thanks to both of you for your help

Ok almost there I think. So the same holes paired on the runner but different holes on the seat. Is that right?

Ok almost with you there but lost it on your last sentence. Are you saying that on one side of the seat, if you use the lower hole on the seat and the lower hole on the runner upstand, you then use upper hole on seat and runner upstand on the other side (or any combination thereof so long as they aren't the same ?)

Thanks again. For completeness see pic both seats compete and back in the car. Feeling very relieved. There is only one thing that I think I will do though. Now the seats are back, they do tend to sit slightly close to the door and when you lift them to allow access, they brush the pillar quite tightly. I think I will put some spacers in where the seat articulates with the runners to shift it to the left on the drivers side and right on the passenger side. I think this should work unless anyone else has any ideas?

One down one to go. Thanks for the advice, one thing I did discover was that the back straps that Rimmers sent me had a different fixing to the originals. I only needed to replace one so I had to adapt it somewhat. The cable ties and bin liner were top tips. Thanks again

Thanks for the advice. Will get the seat on first and have already clocked the "shirt tail"

Thanks all. Practical advice please. Seat cover on first then back cover on? I assume this is the easiest way?

Thanks, no I have new covers as mine were torn, not just dirty. I think the foam is shaped and the new covers certainly have the extra panel on to accommodate the wings so I think I will use them. Frame not too bad but it was bent out of shape so had to be encouraged back to approximately where it originally should have been. I wasn't considering de rusting and painting but there is part of me that thinks I should

Many thanks Pete, I think they are Vitesse Mark 1 seats, the covers certainly were, just assumed the wings were needed but not sure how to check. I now need a squab strap as one failed today as I was making a start. The cable ties is a top tip, will remember to do that

Need some advice. After much consideration I decided to take the plunge and try to re-upholster my car seats. After finding the correct kit from James Paddock (cheaper than Rimmers) it arrived this week Andre seat foam appears to be in three pieces (see pic) I assume the two smaller pieces are the "wings" to the seat to give it its "u" shape. Should I glue the wings to the base before I put the cover on or should I leave it loose? Any advice on this (or indeed anything else related to re covering the seat) very welcome

Thanks Pete, That is a really kind offer but I am a little strapped for time currently and likely to be until the end if the year which is why I was asking about a company to do it. M

Hi Pete, In the south East London or Kent area M

Hi, Can anyone recommend a good company to renovate the front seats of my herald? I know there is one guy who advertises in the back of the mag but wanted to know if anyone had used him and if they had a good result. Thanks Mark