Rabbit
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Posts posted by Rabbit
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Thanks Colin. Into my local Halfords tomorrow then paintbrush out!
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Can anyone suggest what roof paint for a vinyl roof on a Triumph 1500TC (Dolly). Mine is extremely grey. Tried boot polish etc but didn't last. Recomendations gratefully received.
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HELP! I received from DVLC a request letter to road tax my 1968 Spitfire which obviously is tax exempt so no tax would be payable which they stated. It has been off road and Sorned for 24 years (don't ask) but is now ready for the road. Sat down on PC, typed in all details and low and low and behold . . . No record found of this vehicle! I tried 2 16 digit numbers, still no joy. I decided to ring DVLC . . . . well, that was a total waste of energy and time, 11 phone calls all finished up with 'We very busy etc etc, ring back later. I was really wondering if I can drive on the road to take it for MoT. It is insured, has been for 3 years. I am intending to visit the local police station to see if I am legal etc. Thought there may be some advice from others in same boat. I am not wanting a 'Age Related plate' etc. Thanks.
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I have a query on the suspension height of my Spitfire MkIII 1968. Tyres are 145x80x13 and the floor to wing edge, front, is 22 1/8 in or 535mm. The wishbones are at an angle of approx 15 degrees, suspension is quite hard but I am wondering if the floor to wing edge gap should be say 22 1/2in ? The springs are new. Drives OK but sometimes bottoms out on our beautifully maintained country roads!
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Needle rollers falling over, who has not had this annoying thing happen. I tried a slightly different method of fitting UJs recently with success. I used a 2oz hammer and gently tapped each cup into place whilst holding the whole assembly with the heavy end on the bench. Yes, you do have to be careful but each cup took about 35 'taps', not heavy, to gently ease the cup into the yoke. I did both sides like this and can recommend trying this. The Club sells GKN UJs and I can say that I have only occasionally had a needle fall over but then this can happen with whatever brand you buy. I personally will keep using GKN UJs. Don't go for cheaper, you will end up doing the job 2/3 times.
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HANG ON! This is your brake master cylinder, not a refill for your Thermos flask. By bodging up a master BRAKE cylinder you put not only your life in danger but MINE and Other road users. Bite the bullet, buy a new one or lay the car up until you can afford to be safe.
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The petrol hose has always been sold in 1 metre lengths. You could have 1/2 metre of each or 1 metre of 1/4 or 1 metre of 5/16. The Club price has always been competitive. This probably explains why someone on here said that TSSC were double the price of Moss.
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My 1500 Dolly had this problem. Adjusted as per manual but not really improvement so after fitting new cylinders, drilled 15mm hole in drum at right position (think it was 1-1/4in from wheel stud, but check) and inserted flat blade screwdriver through and tightened up one click at time. I will, obviously, check after several hundred miles (?) that all is OK, but at the moment the handbrake is working a treat and the foot brake feels OK after a good bleed.
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Just a query. You say adjuster wound right in. Do you mean the 1/4in square adjuster on the rear of the back plate? This should be unscrewed out (anti-clockwise) with 1/4in spanner to allow shoes to close up at bottom. Shoes should not look like grit! Just a thought. Good luck!
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Well, I think you have been royally ripped off. I have just sent by Royal Mail, a parcel to N Ireland weighing just under 2kg for the princely sum of £3.50! BARGAIN.
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I am not sure which document you are referring to but the valuation document, unless I am wrong was updated this year, 2020. Possibly you have been given an old version. If you ring TSSC I am sure they will correct you by sending an up to date one.
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I changed to Ceratex after being embarrassed by the squealing on light braking of my Dolly! I was then informed by a more knowledgeable person that it was useless and not any better than Copperease! I related my experience and was informed that there must be something wrong with my car! Needless to say I did NOT carry on the conversation. I know my brakes are better and is is NOW, quieter! !
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POPPYMAN is right, but it is not only in third world countries, it is HERE in our own country!
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I have access to about 40 'pairs' of these in total and can say, quite specifically, that they are all the same angle etc and the only difference is the brake one with a re-inforcing bar. All of these are stove enamelled black.
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P.S I am sure my fingers do not make all those MISTAKES but I think you get my drift!
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Programme on Radio 4 regarding this and other queries with electric cars. The 'EXPERTS' suggested dressing for the colder weather as we are too used to heaters etc. You all remember those pictures on TV of cars stuck for hours and oversight etc on snowed up roads, well, if you have an electric only car there will be loads of dead, stiff, corpses to clear up because the occupants could not get warm and had not got the gear to walk to civilisation! Already more accidents are being reported with electric cars not putting headlights etc on as the cells are low on juice. YES, I know I should have charged it up but I live on the 40th floor of a high rise and . . . . etc etc, you now what I mean. Must got a flattish battery on my Dolly but I do know that once charged up my petrol engine will keep me warm and cosy in the snow etc . . . . .
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When we eventually leave the EU (if ever under this lot) can we go back to proper rubber boots and Nitromoors that is stronger than cats wee etc etc and everything thats formula has been changed to suit go back to original including decent high octane petrol with NO ethanol. Now even tyre rubber from my pushbike is apparently killing 3 people worldwide a year!
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Just an observation here, do you mean Stratford on Avon? Perhaps there was something on at Stafford as well.
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I have fitted a servo unit to my Spitfire MKIII, bought one from of EBay from reputable dealer only to find that it was about 25/30mm (1in to 1-1/4) to tall on the bulkhead. Had to then find a smaller diameter one, no problem but the price was (3 years ago) about £280 with all fittings. It came I remember from a company that specialised in Mini Spares. I will add that the braking is the same but with less effort, 2 speed wipers and LED headlights that dip properly (expensive!) and LED sidelights and brake lights because my MKIII does seem extremely small on our overcrowded roads and I want to be seen!
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Strange one this! I have just rebuilt both sides of my Spitfire MkIII and in both cases fitted GKN 18050 UJs. I had to change the UJ so that the grease nipple aperture was on the inside, towards the differential as otherwise it would not 'tilt back' on 1 quarter. All is now OK and working properly.
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I had the misfortune to use Nitromoors. A new formula the tin stated. You could have drank it neat, did eventually remove paint after repeated applications. I wrote to the company stating that my cat's P**S was stronger and asked for a refund. To date (4 months) I have not received a replay. EU regs apparently the reason . . . . .
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I remember the Citroen braking! Did the same and nearly went through screen. The system on this car was used to pump up the suspension so probably this made the brakes more 'efficient?' Certainly never had problems stopping it. Incidentally I have just replaced the servo on my Spitfire MkIII with a 5 1/2 inch unit which sits on the bulkhead where the old one sat. Don't worry what purists say, it requires less effort and is more like my modern cars for feel etc. The old servo was still working although approximately been onfor 15 years but had just started drinking moderately brake fluid. To finish, it's MY car and I will do what I want to it!
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My bet would be seized pistons. Looking at the hoses, they could do with changing as well. Exchange calipers from TSSC and new hoses will be approx. £150 but you know all will be OK. NOT to be joked about, cutting hoses and re-gluing them, some people might do that!!! Block of wood in place of pads, pump gently until pistons reach it, remove knackered rubber seals and observe all the rust on the pistons? Exchange calipers etc will save hours of fiddling etc. It may very well be master cylinder etc related but my bet seeing those seals is that its calipers.
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HELP! I am experiencing difficulty in replacing the rear seat squab in my P reg 1500 (just prior to them being called Dolomites), I just cannot get the front of the seat to drop into the recess despite pushing, groaning, swearing etc etc. There has got to be a knack? It appears to 'lock' in with 2 horizontal struts? Any help gratefully received.
GT6 mk3 Girling servo mk2b 5.5” - Repair Kit
in Braking System
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I had this problem when fitting servo to Spitfire MkIII. Could not get a 5in. The 7in one was slightly to high on the bulkead. I finished up with a new one from a Mini club site (cannot remember exactly where) but a search should find one. It was about £90 complete with adaptors etc. Drilled manifold and tapped for take-off, made bracket for bulkhead and job done. Satisfied with result. I know people say you should not need one but it did brake OK, now it is more like a modern. It retarded before, now it STOPS!