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Everything posted by Rabbit

  1. I have been fitting UJs for it seems, years on and off. Occasionally, as we all know, the needle bearings fall over and then the cap has to be removed etc. Anyway, recently I tried a new method which, undoubtedly a lot of your good selves use, but if so, ignore this! I remove all the caps, clean up the surfaces of all four points where the caps go. Then, using a 2oz ball pein hammer and holding the 'spider' in the cap which is located, obviously, in the entry hole, gently tap it about 40 times, working around the perimeter of the cap (can vary) making sure it is SQUARE to the hole. By keeping the 'spider' up to the cap, this prevents the needle rollers from falling over. When flat with flange, tap it carefully further in until circlip can be inserted. Then repeat on other side then the 2 remaining caps. I have used this method quite a few times now and found it 100% easier than trying to squeeze them in with a vice etc. Hopefully someone will use this method.
  2. Colin, these are available on Ebay in brass. Postage should be about £1 as they will go in an envelope small. Got these on my Spitfire III.
  3. Probably my misunderstanding! At least you were happy with Club service.
  4. I am a tad mystified by your letter. If from the club they would be left and right from same supplier, not one from Rimmers and one from J Paddock. Or are we talking about 2 different sets of calipers. I have had several sets reconditioned via TSSC and have always been happy with the results, including one set of 4 pots from Princess.
  5. I have been reclaiming (?) brake calipers for the past 40 years. I was told NOT to split calipers but as someone had done just that in the past, why could I not do it. No information on the torque was ever found so I kept to 80ft lb and a new rubber seal every time. I NEVER has one leak in all that time. Seals were, and are available from MOSS, these are the correct square section ones and are quite reasonably priced. The only reason I chose 80 ft lb was because that was what the first one I did was set at. Critics will tell me I was doing wrong, well, tell me the right way then.
  6. Thanks for that. I did think I was OK. My LEDs are quite expensive ones with a very good dip. £95 the pair if I remember rightly. Don't know why my post appeared twice!
  7. I have been reading all the new regulations (MoTs) regarding fitting LED headlamps to our cars. Mine is a 1968 Spitfire III. It does seem to state that cars prior to about 1980 can have them as long as they conform to the correct dipping and headlamp pattern. Some letters on here state categorically NO as they have not got an E mark etc. I had these same headlamps fitted to my 13/60 and was NEVER flashed for 'blinding' oncoming vehicles and passed 3 MoTs with them with NO queries. Your views on this would be appreciated.
  8. The ones supplied by YOUR club have the spacers in them. 01858434424.
  9. I have known Mark and Jo for a number of years although not continuously. This is indeed a very sad occasion. Both have been through a hell of a lot. My condolences to Mark.
  10. Nonmember, Cambridge.(?) Please ring Angie at Club and give her your details plus address and phone number and membership number and I will contact you. They are free to a club member.
  11. I bought a set of these hub caps for my Spitfire MkIII. 4 years ago. Unfortunately illness took over and it was not until last year that I managed to get back on the car. Anyway, sprayed wheels etc, went to fit hub caps and they are much to tight on the wheels. You need a long crowbar to actually lever them off the lugs and even then they will disappear with a huge 'bang'. Chrome appears good but too damned tight. The correct hub cap remover stands NO chance to remove them. Mine were around £100 but, no receipt so I doubt if I could return them. I anyone want them, they are FREE to a good home plus postage. I am in Northants.
  12. I have a servo fitted to my MkIII Spitfire. The height must be taken into account to fit on the bulkhead. I bought a complete one from a Mini company that measures 7-1/4 inches. A previous one was 8.5 and too tall too fit. My Spitfire stopped OK but the feel, with servo, is more reassuring. Also it has 4 pots on front, once again, probably not needed but it stops more like my modern than it used too. Sorry, purists, but I like the brakes more now.
  13. Pete is right about drilling. The bolt must be tight but my thought was that if the grease came through onto the nylon bushes, then they would be a lot easier to remove as usually the bolt rusts up and grips the top hats and makes it nigh on impossible to just push or drift the bolt out. I regularly (yearly) remove bolt, clean any rust off surface, re-grease and replace, all part of running an older car. I HAVE, in the past, had great fun removing a reticent bolt!
  14. Way back in the mid 50s, my James Cadet motor cycle rear swing arm was 'similar'? to this set yup. It seized up. My journeyman (I was an apprentice. dismantled it, cursed with comments like crap design etc, took it to his workshop, drilled down from both ends and then cross drilled into the drill hole, fitted grease nipples each end and re-assembled after filling with grease. Pump some in every few months 'boy' and it will never seize again. If you ever see TRP849 (I think) check the swing arm. Just a thought for trunnion bolts?
  15. I bought a RWD 67k Dolomite 1500TC. Steering was SO heavy it was a pig to drive and as to parking . . . . . Anyway, checked pressures and correct to book at 24lb I think. Anyway put them up to 30 and the difference was amazing, not to much harder but a lot easier to park. Still heavy at parking but acceptable. A small amount of play in the bottom steering joint made the steering unpleasant (steering all the while), so replaced and now excellent. There was very little visible play in the joint but when moving the weight of the car made it very noticeable. Once again, new one fitted and steering now superb. It still rolls on bends and corners so next job . . . . . . . well, you all know how it goes!
  16. I think that the idea of the steel S shaped bracket connected to a clamp around the exhaust, is to stiffen the pipe from the inlet manifold where there are 2 or 3 studs depending on vehicle. The idea of the flexible one is good but might allow the pipe to flex on starting and eventually the manifold LOWER round gasket to fail? The whole system i s normally flexible towards the rear of the car but, as stated here it would work ok. Just my opinion I might add.
  17. Clive is correct there. NO bracket direct to chassis but a twisted metal one from gearbox to pipe. Have you had the car long? Must be really noticeable and noisey. I think these brackets are available but are also easily made. About 3/4in x 2-3/4in with 2 longish slots (5/16 drill) and twisted through 90 degrees.
  18. I may be wrong on this but had the problem of NON self adjusting on my Dolomite 1500TC. Fitted new cylinders but not happy with amount of handbrake play despite adjusting cables etc. In the end I drilled 5/8in holes opposite the auto adjuster (non), where the lever located on the adjuster wheel and simply adjusted up with screwdriver through hole until slight rubbing then removed drum and backed off 1 'click'. Been absolutely OK now for 2 years. I know it SHOULD work but in my case it didn't so reverted to normal adjustment. It worked for me. I believe the self adjust drums on later GT6 are larger but cannot see why what I did should not work on them.
  19. DEFINITELY the Club Shop. It needs to be supported to survive. That's what you pay your membership for. SUPPORT YOUR CLUB PLEASE! 01858 434424. Open for mail order.
  20. I had this problem when fitting servo to Spitfire MkIII. Could not get a 5in. The 7in one was slightly to high on the bulkead. I finished up with a new one from a Mini club site (cannot remember exactly where) but a search should find one. It was about £90 complete with adaptors etc. Drilled manifold and tapped for take-off, made bracket for bulkhead and job done. Satisfied with result. I know people say you should not need one but it did brake OK, now it is more like a modern. It retarded before, now it STOPS!
  21. Thanks Colin. Into my local Halfords tomorrow then paintbrush out!
  22. Can anyone suggest what roof paint for a vinyl roof on a Triumph 1500TC (Dolly). Mine is extremely grey. Tried boot polish etc but didn't last. Recomendations gratefully received.
  23. HELP! I received from DVLC a request letter to road tax my 1968 Spitfire which obviously is tax exempt so no tax would be payable which they stated. It has been off road and Sorned for 24 years (don't ask) but is now ready for the road. Sat down on PC, typed in all details and low and low and behold . . . No record found of this vehicle! I tried 2 16 digit numbers, still no joy. I decided to ring DVLC . . . . well, that was a total waste of energy and time, 11 phone calls all finished up with 'We very busy etc etc, ring back later. I was really wondering if I can drive on the road to take it for MoT. It is insured, has been for 3 years. I am intending to visit the local police station to see if I am legal etc. Thought there may be some advice from others in same boat. I am not wanting a 'Age Related plate' etc. Thanks.
  24. I have a query on the suspension height of my Spitfire MkIII 1968. Tyres are 145x80x13 and the floor to wing edge, front, is 22 1/8 in or 535mm. The wishbones are at an angle of approx 15 degrees, suspension is quite hard but I am wondering if the floor to wing edge gap should be say 22 1/2in ? The springs are new. Drives OK but sometimes bottoms out on our beautifully maintained country roads!
  25. Needle rollers falling over, who has not had this annoying thing happen. I tried a slightly different method of fitting UJs recently with success. I used a 2oz hammer and gently tapped each cup into place whilst holding the whole assembly with the heavy end on the bench. Yes, you do have to be careful but each cup took about 35 'taps', not heavy, to gently ease the cup into the yoke. I did both sides like this and can recommend trying this. The Club sells GKN UJs and I can say that I have only occasionally had a needle fall over but then this can happen with whatever brand you buy. I personally will keep using GKN UJs. Don't go for cheaper, you will end up doing the job 2/3 times.
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