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Waynebaby

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Posts posted by Waynebaby

  1. Hi All,

     

    Sorry to hijack the thread, but I have a related differential question. I've been checking the oil on my recently refurbished differential (1500 miles and 12 months) and notice that it is quite "sparkly" Should I expect to find tiny bits of metal in the oil (there is a lot of teeth gnashing going on in there after all) or is it a sign of something dire? Also: Molyslip. Is it worth adding to try to reduce rear axle whine?

     

    Cheers

     

    Wayne 

  2. Thanks all,

     

    I'll start hunting for holes around cables etc. because I'm pretty sure the gearbox cover is leak tight now (lots of gorilla tape last time it was off) I clearly tempted fate about reliability though as in the last half hour the car's developed a distinct metallic clock from the rear when taking up drive. Hopefully it's just a UJ, but as neither of the two on the half shafts have seen >1500 miles since replacement I won't be impressed if it's one of those!

     

    Wayne 

  3. Hi All,

     

    This is my first summer with a reasonably reliable GT6 Mk3 which means I now get to drive for several hours and experience that toasted feet sensation which I believe the GT6 is noted for. This isn't too bad on cooler days but in the recent hot weather the feeling that I'm driving whilst sat in front of the fire is not pleasant. The engine cooling system seems to cope but as well as the issue of getting out of the car looking and feeling like I'm leaving a sauna I'm also worried about the longevity of my lumenition power module, which the PO located in what is probably the hottest place on the bulkhead (directly in line with the exhaust manifold and between the heater matrix hoses)  The maximum operating temperature for the module is 85 degrees C and I reckon that it is probably operating in that region

     

    I'm eyeing up the ventilated aluminium engine bay valances on sale in the club shop and wonder if anybody has any experience of using these and if so, whether they think the louvres actually help to keep the engine bay cooler. Any advice will be gratefully (if rather sweatiley) received

     

    Wayne

  4. The nylon certainly looks of poor quality. It's gone brittle as if it has been left out in the sun for a couple of years and the pressure of the spring has eventually pushed through the material. I hope the next one lasts a bit longer because I for one find the whole rigmarole of getting the transmission tunnel in and out for such a daft little job to be a right chore.

     

    Wayne 

  5. Hi All,

     

    I've had to take my GT6 Mk3 remote gear linkage apart again after it developed terminal vagueness less than 15 months and 1500 miles after renewing the linkage bushes with a kit from a generally well regarded supplier. The plastic "bearing" which sits beneath the metal dome had become brittle to the point where it split in two, allowing the larger of the two springs to poke through. Has anybody else had this kind of problem?

     

    Wayne

    post-995-0-96695300-1468313112_thumb.jpg

    • Like 1
  6. Hi Ken,

     

    The White/yellow wire with the black wire connected from the bottom of the resistor attaches to the positive side of the coil and as you say, you've figured out that the optronic brown wire attaches to the negative terminal. The white cold start wire referred to in the instructions is equivalent to the white/yellow wire on your car, so you don't need to worry about that and as your optronic power module already has a live feed you can ignore that part of the instructions too.

     

    Just exchange the coils and put the two cables back on the new coil exactly as they are on the old coil and things should work. 

     

    Hope that helps.

     

    Wayne 

  7. Hi All,

     

    I've noticed that if I take the crankcase breather pipe off the rocker cover on my Mk3 GT6 (or remove the oil filler cap) whilst it is ticking over the tick-over rate increases slightly and the engine runs marginally smoother. Does anybody happen to know if this is normal or is it indicating that there is something not quite right? I don't know if it is relevant or not but there is next to no blow-by through the oil filler cap.

     

    Wayne

  8. Hi All,

     

    My Mk3 GT6 gets through about 1 litre of Millers 20:50 engine oil every 1000 miles. There are no significant oil leaks (now) and the engine doesn't smoke. Is anybody able to tell me if this is a "normal" oil consumption rate or should I be concerned? The engine has done ~55000 miles and the block hasn't been touched.

     

    Cheers

     

    Wayne

  9. Ken,

     

    Fuel dripping out of the intake area along with lumpy running sounds like it might be the flooding due to the float needle valves not seating properly - often because of minute shavings of rubber fuel hose getting trapped in the valve seat. I'd suggest that you take out the float needle valves, visually check them and the hole they screw into for black particulate and give them a blow through. I have this problem whenever I disturb the fuel pipes connected to the carbs and it often takes a couple of attempts before I get rid of all the offending material.

     

    Wayne

  10. Hi Ken,

     

    That gasket looks the same as mine did and as far as I am aware there is only one in the cold start device. I've done a bit more reading and another way to set the fast idle is to adjust the fast idle adjustment screw so that there is 0.8mm gap between the screw head and the cold start cam when the choke knob is fully home. 

     

    Good luck

     

    Wayne

  11. Ken,

     

    I also have a leak from the CDSE starter valve which I can't seem to fix, but other than a slight dampness with petrol around the rear of the front carb the leak does not cause me any problems with running. This isn't going to help you much, but it could be that your idling problem relates to something other than the starter valve. When I first got my GT6 Mk3 it idled very badly and that turned out to be because the previous owner had installed the cover on the front carb (and consequently the air valve) 90 degrees out. It would be worth double checking that the words CD STROMBERG on both covers are pointing towards the front of the car to eliminate this as a cause of the poor idling.

     

    I have copied the instructions for setting the fast idle given in the owners handbook below. I hope this helps:

     

    Check that the choke lever and cam is against its stop (the piece of square section metal beneath the starter valve) when the choke control knob is pushed fully home. If necessary re-adjust the cable to achieve this condition.

     

    Pull the choke knob out sufficiently to bring the cable trunnion into alignment with the centre of the fast idle adjusting screw and the centre of the starter valve. Slacken the locknut and unscrew the fast idle screw until it is touching the cam on the starter valve actuator.

     

    Start the engine and while it is cold (68 to 86 degrees F) adjust the fast idle screw to give a tacho reading of 1100 rpm. Tighten the locknuts, re-check the fast idle speed and when satisfactory, push the choke knob fully home and stop the engine.

     

    Wayne

  12. Hi All,

     

    I'm contemplating changing the flexible brake hoses on my Mk3 GT6 because I've no idea when they were last changed. I've noticed that the hoses have numbers on them (03/00 and 04/00) and wondered if these were manufacturing dates (i.e. March and April 2000) Does anybody know if these figures refer to manufacturing dates or is this just a co-incidence?

     

    Regards

     

    Wayne

  13. Aidan,

     

    I've just taken off the filter housing and you were spot on with your diagnosis - two o-ring seals where there should only have been one. A classic case of more haste = less speed. When I fitted the spin-on adapter I was too lazy to take off the engine valance and consequently couldn't actually see into the seal groove to see the original seal sitting back in there.

     

    Many thanks for spotting the simple solution to my problem.

     

    Wayne 

  14. Thanks guys,

     

    That is a great help. I now have a sneaking suspicion that I might have left the old seal in place because I can't remember seeing the original. Regarding aluminium swarf in the housing - I had to fish out multiple flakes from the innards and use emery cloth to smooth off various "flashes" of the stuff before fitting it. Not very good quality control.

     

    Wayne

  15. Hi All,

     

    Has anybody else experienced an oil leak between the body of a spin-on oil filter conversion kit and the cylinder block? I have a weep on mine which has been doing a very good job of rust proofing the underside of my GT6 ever since I fitted it. I've tightened up the centre bolt to the point where I'm afraid that any more will strip something but I can't seem to cure the leak (~ 1/2 pint every 100 miles). The OE filter bowl was leak tight and yes, I have fitted the rubber o-ring. Any suggestions?

     

    Wayne 

  16. Hi,

     

    I was getting bored in the garage waiting for the hail/thunder to stop and got to wondering about the code numbers that are on a sticker just in front of the drivers door. Does anybody know what they refer to? Sorry if this turns out to be a daft question!

     

     

    post-995-0-76080200-1460040884_thumb.jpg

  17. Hi All,

     

    The cold start device on the front carb of my Mk3 GT6 (150 CDSEs) seems to have a permanent "weep" around the spindle that is actuated when you pull on the choke knob. There isn't enough of a fuel leak to cause a drip but there is enough to cause a smell of petrol under the bonnet. Do they all do this or is there something amiss?

     

    Wayne

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