Waynebaby
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Posts posted by Waynebaby
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Don't know if it will help, but here is a picture (admittedly for a Delco D204 dizzy on a six cylinder set up) showing the relationship between the key off set and the rotor arm orientation,
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Are you needing a clip that is a kind of curly wire? I might have a spare somewhere which you can have. I’ll take a look tomorrow and let you know if I can find it.
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The Delco clips are getting hard to find. I got my last ones from Mick Dolphin if that helps.
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Thanks Sam,
I’d forgotten about your thread. That might explain the WE stamp but not the KF.
Wayne
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Hi Rob,
I agree that there seem to be two sets of ID numbers, but WE (or NE?) doesn't look like a gearbox ID prefix to me. I think that they all start with F, G, H or K. The ER282 stamp is a mystery too.
Wayne
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Hi All,
I was looking with interest at the material that Henry Jones supplied for his gearbox tutorial and noticed the sheet that identifies GT6 Mk3 gearboxes with the prefix KF as being destined for the American market. I've attached a photo of the ID on my gearbox which seems to indicate that it should be in America rather than attached to a very late UK car first sold in Wellingborough. Before I got the car the 'box had been repaired at least once and judging by the seemingly random collection of stamps on the case it looks as if the box has had a fair bit of "history" over the years. I can't imagine that gearboxes were ever repatriated from the States however and assume it was fitted on the production line - possibly to use up components as the run came to an end?
Does this sound like a reasonable explanation and does anybody else have a KF prefix gearbox on a UK car?
Wayne
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Hi Graham,
The fact that you have three out of the four studs in their holes makes it hard to understand why the fourth shouldn't also be in alignment. I guess you could judge if you have a straight run through from the top of the spring box into the diff casing by either shining a torch down the hole or probing with a long screw-driver to see if you can see/feel a misalignment between the bottom plate and the diff. If you have this, then slacking off the three studs may give you wriggle room on the box to get the fourth in (you'll obviously need the weight back off the rear wheels to do this) I hope you find that the issue is just one of alignment and not a problem I've had, when the thread in one of the holes in the diff casing decided to strip on removing the stud (top left in the photo). I was lucky in that the stripped portion was just at the very top of the hole, and I was able to recover the situation using a longer stud (the kind used with spacer blocks) and screwing the stud deeper than usual into the casing.
Good luck
Wayne
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Hi All,
After a hint of ground frost in the weather forecast for the night of Saturday the 6th October the council in Stockton-on-Tees decided to spend some of my council tax on spreading several tons of the Devils de-icer on the local roads. I know the North East isn't the warmest place in the country, but this seems a tad excessive. Can anybody beat this?
Wayne
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Andrew,
I've had a brand new flexi-hose act like a non return valve and jam on the rear brakes when I was running a Matra, so this failure mode needn't be age-related.
Wayne
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A 3D printed inflatable one sounds a plan.
Pete. Are you on the wrong forum again!
Wayne
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Hi All,
I really thought I'd done everything possible in order to reduce the frequency with which I was having to remove the transmission tunnel from my Mk3 GT6. I'd had my gearbox and O/D rebuilt by Mr Papworth, fitted a new three part clutch kit, got a fettled release lever from Uncle Pete, put on a new slave cylinder filled with silicone hydraulic fluid (and added a remote bleed nipple for good measure), moved the O/D switch to the steering column to avoid wire chafing and even cut a hatch to access the gearbox filler plug. What had I missed?
My O/D stopped engaging this weekend and I eventually traced the problem to the micro-switch which is actuated by the 3rd/4th gear interlock. The nut which holds the switch onto its bracket had vibrated loose until the switch was no longer making contact with the interlock. Five hours of wrestling with the tunnel plus electrical continuity testing, all in order to carry out a two minute fix with a spanner and a couple of drops of Loctite!
If your car is fitted with this micro-switch, I recommend that next time you have the tunnel out (and you know there's going to be a next time!) you Loctite the b*gger in place.
Wayne
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When you’re finished using it I’d recommend storing it in a plastic bag (unless you empty it) because it will leak and make a horrible mess (guess how I know)
Wayne
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I don’t know if it is hiding something unsightly Doug, but since the body has been drilled to fit it I’m going to leave it where it is for the time being!
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Hi All,
This is one for the GT6 Mk3 originality experts. When I bought my Mk3 it came with two badges on the rear scuttle as shown in the attached photo. I'm not sure that the "Triumph" badge is standard and think that all there should be is the smaller GT6 Mk3 badge. Can anybody confirm if the Triumph badge should be there or not?
Thanks
Wayne
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Hi,
Don't run the engine without something to hold the tacho drive in place or it will fall out (ask me how I know!) If you give Powerspark ignition a call (01527 889 453) and speak to them nicely they may sell you the part you need.
Wayne
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Thanks for the replies - much appreciated. I'll strip off the tape before replacing the badge along with the correct inserts.
Wayne
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Hi Folks,
I took the bonnet badge off my GT6 to deal with some corrosion which is appearing around the fixing holes on the bonnet. The rear of the badge has some foam rubber adhesive tape on it which was both helping to hold the badge in place and acting as a sponge to hold moisture. Does anybody know if the foam tape should be there or is it just something a PO did to avoid spending 50p on the correct clips to hold the badge in place?
Wayne
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Hi Spit1972,
Here's a link to a video by Moss Motors which explains the principles of vacuum and mechanical advance quite nicely (if you don't mind the references to American football in part 1 of the video!)
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Pete and Doug,
I don't know if my male press-studs are in the usual place or not, but they are located on the front face of the cross member located just in front of the seat and fastened in place with pop-rivets. The rear of the foot well carpet is therefore attached vertically. I've attached a picture which might help.
Wayne
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Thanks for the advice. The pin is still in situ (phew)
I think you’re onto something with your linkage lube suggestion Colin since the lever action is quite graunchy on the right hand side of the gate even when cold. I can’t face taking off the gearbox cover again so soon after putting it back though so I’ll treat the sticky gear lever as the lesser of two evils for the moment!
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10 hours ago, NonMember said:
Are you sure the slave is right? There are a few different bores and a couple of different master bores. I used to have poor clutch performance on the Vitesse and cured it with a slightly smaller bore slave.
The cylinders are as fitted (5/8" M/C and 1" S/C) so that shouldn't be the problem but I'll keep it in mind.
2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:Is the tolerance ring and withdrawl pivot pin all secure and not dropping out.?.
Sorry Pete, but I'm not sure what the tolerance ring and withdrawl pivot pin are. Do you mean the pin inside the bell housing that the release fork pivots on?
Wayne
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To be honest it’s not wonderful with the engine off (3rd/4th is quite baulky) but it’s no worse when I first start the engine. Things get stiffer with the engine on when fully warm. I can tell it’s clutch drag when warm because I can hear the diff unload when shifting from 1st (clutch depressed and stationary) to neutral.
Wayne
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Hi All,
I used to have an problem with gear selection after a few miles when things had got nicely warm which I always put down to clutch drag. I've since changed the clutch and refitted my rebuilt gearbox and .... I have a problem with gear selection after a few miles when things have got nicely warm! I can set off with my Mike Papworth-fettled gearbox snickety smooth but half an hour later I'm having to use what feels like undue force on the lever in order to change up. The car is drive-able, but it doesn't feel too good and I fear for what this gear-lever wrangling will do to the longevity of the linkage bushes.
The clutch master cylinder has new seals, the slave is brand new and I'm definitely not losing fluid. The slave bleed nipple is uppermost and the cylinder has been bled to within an inch of its life.There is the right amount of clutch pedal free play and the clevis pin at the master cylinder is a snug fit in the end of the push-rod.
Does anybody know why my gear selection is temperature sensitive in this way?
Wayne
Looking for a spitfire
in I thought I'd introduce myself
Posted
Finding the drain orifice from the main cooling gallery can be very trying. The hole is situated between 11 o’clock and 1 o’clock up behind the where the drain plug screws in. Blindly poking with a bit of bent wire in the hope of hitting the drain hole is the best you can manage I’m afraid. I only got mine clear when I took the head off and found it from the other end (having first sucked out a cupful of crud!)