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cwillst

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    Wiltshire
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    Spitfire mkIV

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  1. This is a video of the slack. You can see the diff oil leaking ready to drip. 00001.MTS
  2. I get what you say about the backlash. I did get someone who only works on and restores triumphs to check it for me and I took his advice. He did say it was the worst case of backlash he had come across. The diff also had a bad leek but that alone doesn't justify the swapp. The gear change feels a lot better now that the slack has gone as. But from whatyou say, it may have been a costly exercise that was not really needed.
  3. We finally traced and fixed the problem. It was warn uj on the drivers side plus leaky wheel bearing. The cups were rotating in the yoke so I ended up replacing the whole assembly, and the diff because there was a lot of play . Great to have the car back on the road again but my wallet is lighter too.
  4. Thanks Pete - again. I will discuss with my tame mechanic. Before that I will have a listen from outside. I think it is that noisy that it can be heard bur you know how well sounds travel inside cars. I will confirm back when / if we solve trhis. Tim
  5. I have a 1972 Spitfire, restored by a PO about 10 years ago, the drive shaft UJ's replaced some 8 years ago, some 3000 miles of travel since then. In the last couple of years the car has developed a rear end knocking noise that is relational to road speed. Only noticeable at low speeds and mostly appears once car has run a mile or so. I have not been able to trace it. I have a tame professional mechanic who had his own garage with years of experience with classic cars. He has not been able to trace it, mind you it seems to dissappear for a few miles once he has had his hands on checking the rear end. He tells me not to worry, old cars have rattles and knocks. I still drive it but am concerned that it will reveal itself when something brakes. My question to the forum is whether there is something about the Spitfire rear end drive geometry that could mask worn UJs or UJ float from such a mechanic? He is very experienced with Minis. Has restored cars and at least one GT6 so does know his stuff. I am going to get him to do my pre-season safety check soon, so are there any suggestions the forum could give me to pass on. I have waded through this topic reading all the knocking stories! The one that seems most likely is whether it needs wider gauge clips to stop end float.
  6. Thanks for the suggestion of a ratchet strap. I just spent the last couple of hours pondering over how I could set up some sort of pulley arrangement to get enough purchase. I have had to use a long lever even to compress the thing on its own. My weight was not enough. I wonder if the springs are stronger with the latest batch. I also got mine from the club shop back in December. At least now I will sleep tonight !
  7. Thanks Pete. Thanks for an informative and entertaining day. Thanks also to the HQ staff for the BBQ and looking after us. It was my first visit to the HQ complex. Very interesting it made it a full day. Sorry that I chickened out of bringing the Spitfire, I will do next time. Tim
  8. Thanks John and Richard, What you say about Lucas confirms my suspicion on quality. The picture looks just like the one that I have. I do like the gear stick location so will keep it for the time being.
  9. I have a MKIV Spitfire with overdrive operated from a switch on the gear stick. I replaced the switch earlier this year with a replacement from Rimmers. It worked OK for a while but now seems not to engage every time. Years ago I had a Dolomite Sprint and that original switch operated with a click and you could feel it sliding into the in and out positions. The replacement switch and the old one on the Spitfire lacks that feel and I suspect has a cheaper internal structure. Is it possible to find better quality switches these days and is this a common issue to have the switch pack up. (I proved it with a multimeter that the old switch was duff), the current switch now works if I fiddle with it while in the on position . Anyone else met this issue, I searched this forum and club triumph. If no better quality around I better get a spare. I saw some on ebay but doubt they are genuine Lucas parts. Any recommendations.?
  10. Just to close this thread off, one year later! When I looked at the set up, having removed the cowl, nothing matched the description. It turns out that during renovation a 1500 steering column and shroud was fitted by the PO, along with the 1500 indicators stalks. So the original steering wheel does not have the lugs to engage with the self cancelling mechanism. So the fix will be a new steering wheel with the matching 1500 boss. I write this in case someone else hits the same issue. My car will never be concourse but remains a wonderful fun drive and looks great. I am leaning all the time about the car. The body off restoration has been done very well but I suspect with a 1500 donor car for many parts.
  11. Thanks Pete, Life is strange, I waited a while before asking the question in the hope that I saw an example or photo. As soon as I post the question, thirty spitfire doors appear on sale in ebay. In the photo the wear marks from the seals are clear. That's another job lined up for the weekend. Thanks again for the advice. I will try silicone sealer as the glue.
  12. Hi. The oval rubber seals, part no 602821 in Rimmer catalogue were missing from my car when I got it. There's no trace of which side they fit. On door or A post, and I am guessing the orientation. Vertically or horizontal? Could someone please have a look on their car, or does one of the experts know? My guess from looking at the options is door horizontal fixing. Also I prefer to glue than add holes for screws. My thoughts was clear silicone sealer, any better suggestions? Car is 74 MKIV. I assume the seals help keep water out of the doors and A Posts so are worth replacement. Thanks as usual for any advice.
  13. Hi, My mkIV came with mx5 seats and I love the comfort they give, they also look great. Having the head rests also is positive. I have never noticed any height issues but this is my first Spitfire so I have nothing to compare against. They adjust well. The couple of negatives are firstly that they are not the original item so you get the odd comment at shows,but the biggest issue is that with the hood down they tend to rub on the hood mechanism and trap the seat belt. I plan to look for a seat belt guide that would hold them up to stop the belt getting caught. I have no plans to refit original seats.
  14. cwillst

    Old age

    Thought provoking. I was born in '53 and recognise much of the story. But we had biros, penicillin, and I met a dishwasher in '63 when in the States. So they were invented by then, just not in frequent use. My Ford Anglia cost £50 when I was 18. I remember petrol being more like 30p a gallon. But yes huge changes especially in social matter and attitudes. Life was simpler with fewer choices.
  15. Thanks Darren,Doug and David, The suggestions I will try out as soon as I get a weekend not ruined by work or family events. The previous owner has mentioned changing the steering column so there is a good chance that it just needs a twist. I will reply again once I have explored what's under the cowl. If that fails I will try the buzzers.
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