Mjit
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Posts posted by Mjit
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Never been a fan of those capillary sensors - even before I had one fail, which puts it into an open circuit and sets the fan running in the garage until the battery's flat.
Just £15 more than the silicone 'sleeve' for some solid state, non-leaking goodness - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282802366937?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=lpFSprNpStq&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY (30mm ID and either 90° or 95° - for a Spitfire bottom hose at least)
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15 hours ago, Peter Truman said:
I did the Same conversion on my Mk2 Vitesse eons ago removing the rubber bag and using a push contact switch, only issue is the return spring isn't strong enough to break the contact and return knob to normal off/out position I have to pull it off, maybe time to revisit & see if I can find a stronger spring return switch.
I wondered why they seemed to have used one of the chunky Lucas SPB106 style push buttons like I use as a push starter button on my Spit. as they require quite a firm push - but if you actually need a strong spring that's probably why.
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They do reduce noise a little bit, from the sping leaves sliding against each other - but so does a good squirt of spray Lithium grease between where the leaves touch every few years.
And they do reduce wear, caused by that leaf rubbing - but you'd probably need to drive 50,000+ miles to be able to see anything.
They also make reassembling your spring a royal PITA as they keep trying to escape and need to compress the spring a lot more to do up all the shackles - and that's with an original spring with the little recesses for the buttons. Aftermarket replacement spring tend to be simple 'flat' strips of spring steel.I did replace them when I overhauled my orginal spring 30 odd years ago - and found most of the rubber had crumbled and escaped after a couple of years. I've since switched to an aftermarket replacement spring and run sans-buttons without issues.
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Personally I'd save youself a load of masking hastle and just paint the full rim while the old tyres off.
If you do go for the split inner/outer painting option one trick I found tarting up the "S" alloys on my big saloon was a pile of cheap index cards, the ones about 2/3 the size of a postcard. Flexible and small enough they will happily tuck down between rim and tyre and stop overspray landing on the tyre. Much easier than trying to mask up the tyre with tape.
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Generally the answer is an expensive ratchet crimping too. I say that as someone with has bought a cheaper one...then had to buy a more expensive one when the cheaper one turne dout to be a PoS.
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20 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:
Hello Mint
I was talking to these people at Triumh & MG show on Sunday about a tank for my Spitfire and for one with more capacity and the fuel pump built in(I run ITB's EFI) and putting a dent/bulge in to locate the fuel filter he said about £500!
I said I could make the fuel punp fixing plate and he said that would save about £50!
Plus if I went ahead I would prefer a guage sender that bolts not the ring fixing type and I could make the flange perhaps another £50 off?
Car Radiators Manufacturers | Heat Exchange Specialists: Coolex (coolexperts.co.uk)
Roger
ps they would make it to your own dimensions?
Would it be any cheaper if they were doing a run of several tanks, rather than just a complete one-off? I'd certainly be interested in higher capacity, in tank EFi pump equiped Spitfire tank...
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21 hours ago, KevinR said:
As revealed by winding the windows up, the windscreen is tipped back too far.
On the MKIII Spitfire, the rake of the windscreen is adjustable - fittings inside the A posts.
Before tackling the hard top, you need to correct the rake of the screen.
I'd go the other way actually, bolting the hard top down at the back, loosening the windscreen frame, and moving the frame to just/snugly fit the hard top. Do that and chances are when you wind the windows up they will be in the correct place.
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Looks like a classic case of "slouching windscreen frame" - could be just miss-aligned windscreen frame, could be 50 years of people pulling themselves out of the car by the windscreen frame, could be a bad sill replacement job that let the body sag a bit.
As the windscreen frame on a Mk3 is a 'bolt in' rather 'welded in' like the Mk IV/1500 hopefully it's just poorly assembled and you'll be able to finagle the frame mounting bolts to rotate the frame enough to let the side windows fit, and that will also likely resolve the hard top fit issue too.
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17 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
Sadly the original paint on these cars fades horribly. My Mimosa had faded to post-it-note yellow, the re-sprayer phoned me up and said "You told me the wrong colour!" But deep joy when I went to look at it, just like it was when I bought it 30 years previously! Halfords will test to match the colour you have and mix it for you.
Doug
And that's assuming you're actually looking/trying to match to the original paint. I know my Spitfire's currently on it's 4th colour since rolling off the production line - Sienna Brown > unknown White > Inca Yellow > custom Yellow.
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23 hours ago, JohnD said:
But the little darlings cannot walk more than few yards to Mummy/Daddy's car...
Hey, don't blame this on the children, they aren't the ones parking the cars!
It mummy/daddy parked farther away very few children would refuse to leave the school gate until they moved closer. This is all about mummy/daddy being too lazy to walk more than a few feet, often not even willing to get out their cars so all wanting to be in sight of the gate.
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1 hour ago, Steve P said:
I recently rebuilt the front suspension on my Herald and fitted trunnion-less uprights and 4 pot callipers which were a lot better than the type 14`s.
Out of interest which ones, especially calipers, did you go for?
Put 4-pot Willwoods from Chris Witor on my big saloon and, well let's just say I really notice the difference jumping between the big bus and my Spitfire now in a way I didn't before! Plus it's an excuse for more shiny things...
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Something like MegaJolt is the 'optimal' solution as the ECU is getting a signal every 5° of the 4-stroke cycle and directly from the crank. The flip side is it also involves the most work to fit (its not a bolt-on solution).
Next best is one of the 123 Distributors. This is much more 'bolt-on', just replacing the distributor - but that means you have some accuracy losses in all the gears between the crank and distributor drive, plus far fewer index points in each 4-stroke cycle. I think your spark's still coming from a 1930's coil design rather than a 'modern' (1980's) one.
And you're not really increasing power by swapping to mappable ignition (alone) but rather optimizing it. The same amount of fuel/air is going into the cylinder, you're just lighting the fire closer to the perfect time to get the most of the bang's energey converted into force pushing the piston down the bore, turning the crank. As a result the max BHP of a mapped car is no different to the max BHP of the same (correctly tuned) engine running on points/dizzy. The difference comes in the fact if you tune a points/dizzy to be perfect under one condition, be that max power/at idle/at motorway cruise, while it might be perfect there it's unlikely to be perfect anywhere else/under any different conditions. At the end of the day you're relying on a couple of weights and springs, with a little bit of vacuum advance to handle everything - and all of that takes time to respond to changes. With MegaJolt the ECUs looking at the load/RPM condition thousands of times a second so can fire the spark at the optimum time, every time, so you get as much of the energy out of each bang as you can.
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21 hours ago, RFC007 said:
Perhaps a twin carb upgrade would be better?
Buy a car based on body condition, then tinker to your hearts content. Regardless how much tinkering you do it's unlikely to cost you more than buying a 1500 that needs any body work doing.
Oh, and if you want an engine that revs AND has torque - swap to mappable electronic ignition. After driving my car one of the Triumph specialists asked me if I'd swapped to a 1500 engine following the swap from dizzy to MegaJolt.
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To be honest there isn't that much between the engines. Certainly we're not talking the difference between one that tops out at 60MPH and one that will give a modern GTi a run for its money!
If it was me I'd buy based on the condition of the body, as you could buy a 1500 engine and gearbox and swap them for a hell of a lot less than it would cost to replace a few rusty panels...
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
if you worry about air lock in the tube disconnect ,at the gauge hold over a jam jar and crank till oil arrives
then just re reconnect ............the miracle of simple bleeding
wont make any real difference but you will be happier
Pete
I seem to remember trying that...only for half the oil to then drain back overnight!
As others have said so long as it's in a consistent place don't worry.
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On 09/12/2023 at 11:58, Iain T said:
Pascal's Law is
A change in pressure at any point in an enclosed incompressible fluid at rest is transmitted equally and undiminished to all points in all directions throughout the fluid, and acts at right angles to the enclosing walls.
Pressure = Force/Area
You haven't changed the force so the pressure is the same.
Iain
Ah, but that "incompressible fluid" part's important - and certainly on my car there's a good amount of air in the plastic and air is compressible. If there's more air in the new pipe you'd get a lower reading.
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Some on eBay ATM - though at £42.24 (+p&p) for 16.
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Have you ever seen anyone riding a Lime bike, Iain?
You see them discarded everywhere but I've only once seen someone actually riding one...
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If you get good compression without oil you don't need to bother retesting with oil.
If you get poor compression without, retest with oil. The oil 'sinks' so helps the piston rings seal so if you get good/better compression with oil your poor compression's probably down to worn rings/boars. Oil doesn't 'levitate' though so has no impact on the valves so if you still have poor compression with oil it's probably down to worn valves. Or of course it could be both!
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First off don't do anything until the house is sorted. Let's face it if you were to sell it now the money you get would end up being spent on the house.
Once that's done sell the Spitfire and buy something else, maybe a Dolly 1850 - easier for you to get in and out of (so you'll actually get to use it), slightly sporty (vs. 1300/1500 Dollys at least), but also a good one more in the ball park of what you'll get for the Spitfire (unlike say a Sprint).
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2 hours ago, PeteH said:
A pdf version would be nice to see though. As keeping back issues can become something of a storage nightmare. pdf would allow the printing off of "useful info" and or electronic storage, without the whole magazine. "Screen shots" though useful, can be problematic.
Logged-in members have been able to access digital versions of back issues via the website for some time now, so no need to keep the paper version once you've read it - https://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/courier.asp
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14 hours ago, Chris A said:
I like my paper copy, especially this month 😉, but I could be tempted to have the electronic only option if the subs were lower
I doubt the actual printing and postage costs for 12 copies of the Courier would make any meaningful dent in the annual subs. Much of the real cost is actually in the layout and prep. of the document rather than the physical applying ink to paper side. And on the ink to paper side at a guess we pay for a print run of a fixed number of copies, one for each existing member and some spares for new members/lost in post/sell of give away to prospective memebers at shows. As a result 1 person swapping to digital delivery doesn't change the priting costs, just means one more spare copy at HQ. It would need a significant percentage of the membership to swap before the size of the print run could be reduced - and even then savings wouldn't be as great as the reduction in numbers as generally the more you print, the lower the per-copy price.
Personally I'd stick with the paper version - much better suited to the life in the 'private reading room'...
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On 13/10/2023 at 19:10, PeteH said:
Of course the obvious answer is not to have an E-V and to go to the garage and stick 60litre of Diesel in? 5 min in and out. But I guess that`s far too simple🙄
Pete
Or you go the route Nio are pushing, where batteries are 'hot swappable'. Basically while the plugging in would be the norm you also have a number of automated service centres spread around the country where you drive up, the garage takes control of your car (you still in it) and rolls you into a service bay, automatically removes your battery/replaces it with a fresh, fully charged one, you drive off with a full 'tank'. So when you do need to make a long journey 'refuling' doesn't take norticably longer in a Nio EV than it does in a ICE powered car.
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4 hours ago, johny said:
I always think its better to hit peoples wallets rather than by law. The conventional car in a charging point space makes sense but an EV plugged in - is it charging or not? As if the police havent got enough to do....
Well the simple one would be to charge people for how long their EV is plugged in, rather than how much electricity they pull. Want to leave it there blocking the charger from 9 to 5? Go for your life - but you'll be charged for 8hrs of charging time (even though you only recieved a 30min 'top-up'). Most people would be motivated to pop back and unplug - and if you've done that you might as well move the car.
The other option would be to change the way the charging cable is 'locked' to the car. In my limited experience currently it seems the car locks on to the cable - so someone can't just yank it out and plug it in to their car the second you walk away. If the charger was given control of the lock instead/as well you could site the 'pump' in the middle of 4 parking bays. As soon as the plugged in car's full the 'pump' could unlock the cable from the car/switch from "Engaged" to "Available" and someone in one of the other bays could unplog from car A/plug in to theirs and start their charging cycle.
Revotec fan controller
in Cooling System
Posted
My Kenlowe one certainly went open circuit when the capillary bulb failed. Never worked out how/why it failed as it switched the fan off after parking one day and failed while just sat there parked. Recharge battery and reconnect and fan kicked straight in (on stone cold engine). Pulling the probe from the top hose uncovered an inch long split in the bulb.