Mjit
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Mjit last won the day on January 15 2021
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About Mjit
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Location
London
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Cars Owned
Spitfire, 2.5PI, 2.5PI
Mjit's Achievements
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Never been a fan of those capillary sensors - even before I had one fail, which puts it into an open circuit and sets the fan running in the garage until the battery's flat. Just £15 more than the silicone 'sleeve' for some solid state, non-leaking goodness - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282802366937?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=lpFSprNpStq&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY (30mm ID and either 90° or 95° - for a Spitfire bottom hose at least)
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I wondered why they seemed to have used one of the chunky Lucas SPB106 style push buttons like I use as a push starter button on my Spit. as they require quite a firm push - but if you actually need a strong spring that's probably why.
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Those circular doodahs on the leaf spring of a 78 Spitfire 1500.
Mjit replied to Aristotle's topic in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
They do reduce noise a little bit, from the sping leaves sliding against each other - but so does a good squirt of spray Lithium grease between where the leaves touch every few years. And they do reduce wear, caused by that leaf rubbing - but you'd probably need to drive 50,000+ miles to be able to see anything. They also make reassembling your spring a royal PITA as they keep trying to escape and need to compress the spring a lot more to do up all the shackles - and that's with an original spring with the little recesses for the buttons. Aftermarket replacement spring tend to be simple 'flat' strips of spring steel. I did replace them when I overhauled my orginal spring 30 odd years ago - and found most of the rubber had crumbled and escaped after a couple of years. I've since switched to an aftermarket replacement spring and run sans-buttons without issues. -
Personally I'd save youself a load of masking hastle and just paint the full rim while the old tyres off. If you do go for the split inner/outer painting option one trick I found tarting up the "S" alloys on my big saloon was a pile of cheap index cards, the ones about 2/3 the size of a postcard. Flexible and small enough they will happily tuck down between rim and tyre and stop overspray landing on the tyre. Much easier than trying to mask up the tyre with tape.
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Generally the answer is an expensive ratchet crimping too. I say that as someone with has bought a cheaper one...then had to buy a more expensive one when the cheaper one turne dout to be a PoS.
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Would it be any cheaper if they were doing a run of several tanks, rather than just a complete one-off? I'd certainly be interested in higher capacity, in tank EFi pump equiped Spitfire tank...
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1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII Hard Top doesn't fit a MkIII car.
Mjit replied to Ali Jenkinson's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
I'd go the other way actually, bolting the hard top down at the back, loosening the windscreen frame, and moving the frame to just/snugly fit the hard top. Do that and chances are when you wind the windows up they will be in the correct place. -
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII Hard Top doesn't fit a MkIII car.
Mjit replied to Ali Jenkinson's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
Looks like a classic case of "slouching windscreen frame" - could be just miss-aligned windscreen frame, could be 50 years of people pulling themselves out of the car by the windscreen frame, could be a bad sill replacement job that let the body sag a bit. As the windscreen frame on a Mk3 is a 'bolt in' rather 'welded in' like the Mk IV/1500 hopefully it's just poorly assembled and you'll be able to finagle the frame mounting bolts to rotate the frame enough to let the side windows fit, and that will also likely resolve the hard top fit issue too. -
And that's assuming you're actually looking/trying to match to the original paint. I know my Spitfire's currently on it's 4th colour since rolling off the production line - Sienna Brown > unknown White > Inca Yellow > custom Yellow.
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Hey, don't blame this on the children, they aren't the ones parking the cars! It mummy/daddy parked farther away very few children would refuse to leave the school gate until they moved closer. This is all about mummy/daddy being too lazy to walk more than a few feet, often not even willing to get out their cars so all wanting to be in sight of the gate.
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Out of interest which ones, especially calipers, did you go for? Put 4-pot Willwoods from Chris Witor on my big saloon and, well let's just say I really notice the difference jumping between the big bus and my Spitfire now in a way I didn't before! Plus it's an excuse for more shiny things...
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Something like MegaJolt is the 'optimal' solution as the ECU is getting a signal every 5° of the 4-stroke cycle and directly from the crank. The flip side is it also involves the most work to fit (its not a bolt-on solution). Next best is one of the 123 Distributors. This is much more 'bolt-on', just replacing the distributor - but that means you have some accuracy losses in all the gears between the crank and distributor drive, plus far fewer index points in each 4-stroke cycle. I think your spark's still coming from a 1930's coil design rather than a 'modern' (1980's) one. And you're not really increasing power by swapping to mappable ignition (alone) but rather optimizing it. The same amount of fuel/air is going into the cylinder, you're just lighting the fire closer to the perfect time to get the most of the bang's energey converted into force pushing the piston down the bore, turning the crank. As a result the max BHP of a mapped car is no different to the max BHP of the same (correctly tuned) engine running on points/dizzy. The difference comes in the fact if you tune a points/dizzy to be perfect under one condition, be that max power/at idle/at motorway cruise, while it might be perfect there it's unlikely to be perfect anywhere else/under any different conditions. At the end of the day you're relying on a couple of weights and springs, with a little bit of vacuum advance to handle everything - and all of that takes time to respond to changes. With MegaJolt the ECUs looking at the load/RPM condition thousands of times a second so can fire the spark at the optimum time, every time, so you get as much of the energy out of each bang as you can.
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Buy a car based on body condition, then tinker to your hearts content. Regardless how much tinkering you do it's unlikely to cost you more than buying a 1500 that needs any body work doing. Oh, and if you want an engine that revs AND has torque - swap to mappable electronic ignition. After driving my car one of the Triumph specialists asked me if I'd swapped to a 1500 engine following the swap from dizzy to MegaJolt.
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To be honest there isn't that much between the engines. Certainly we're not talking the difference between one that tops out at 60MPH and one that will give a modern GTi a run for its money! If it was me I'd buy based on the condition of the body, as you could buy a 1500 engine and gearbox and swap them for a hell of a lot less than it would cost to replace a few rusty panels...
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Does the length of oil pressure tube/hose, affect the reading of the gauge?.
Mjit replied to daverclasper's topic in Engine
I seem to remember trying that...only for half the oil to then drain back overnight! As others have said so long as it's in a consistent place don't worry.