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Mjit

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Posts posted by Mjit

  3. Fuel Pump Seepage

    in Fuel System

    Posted

    On 06/10/2022 at 12:22, Colin Lindsay said:

    I just couldn't get my head round how plumbers use it to seal threads, but here's ( on a gearbox drain plug) it's a thread lubricant and not a sealer so won't seal minute pits in worn threads.

    Isn't it more a case that everyone uses it as a thread lubricant, just often incorrectly called a sealent - a bit like the 'shock absorbers' in your suspension actually being the springs, not the dampers?

    PTFE, or if you prefer trade names Teflon, is just 'smooth and slippy' so lets you tighten a thread more for the same force.  And the tighter the joint's done up the less likely it is to leak/the more likely you'll be able to get past the damaged threads and seal on some clean ones.

  4. Pads for Spit 1500

    in Braking System

    Posted

    23 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

    image.thumb.png.7f067e7c566c6385fb65801cd6e3d0af.png

    Always love these sort of guides.  Great for the hand full of people who live on quiet roads, about 1 mile from a quiet motorway.  It's only because on live right on the borough border that I can turn left and be in a 30MPH limit.  Turn right and it's 20MPH.

  7. Hello from sunny Cornwall, new Herald owner.

    in I thought I'd introduce myself

    Posted

    4 hours ago, Paul H said:

    How many coats did you use ? 
    Paul 

    As many as you have patience for!  Nothing worse than working through your different grades of sandpaper to get everything smooth only to find you've through to the vanear.  Not that I'd ever do that <cough>...

    Also with Rustin's they basically say to slather it on and from experience they are correct.  It's quite thick so doesn't just run off but does flow and self level as it dries.  Think more someone who REALLY likes Marmite/golden syrup on their toast, not someone who likes an almost transparently thin layer.

    From memory as soon as one coats touch dry (I think ~20/30min) you can apply another but if you leave it too long so it starts to harden you really need to leave it 24hrs to complete the process, so guess how long it will take to give all the wood you have a single coat/how amny times you can do that in the time you have and do that many coats, repeating a couple of days later if you want to add more.

    Only other Rustin's advice is - buy a good brush but don't expect to keep it.  Even mixed (it's a 2 part mix) sealed in a jar, even with just a piece of cling film, it will keep a couple of days so just leave the brush in the jar, all wrapped in cling film.

    • Thanks 1

  8. Fuel Pump Seepage

    in Fuel System

    Posted

    On 05/10/2022 at 11:50, Colin Lindsay said:

    Not the dreaded PTFE!! I mentioned using it, in the Diff drain plug thread, and had to run for cover.... :)

    You should see how people react when someone suggests using it on brake pipe connections!

    Had to use some recently while fitting a Chris Witor Wilwood brake upgrade to my big saloon and while googling if it was OK or found one thread where someone savaged another poster for saying "In X case it's fine.", really going for it and how wrong and stupid the previous poster was.  And that would have been fine if it wasn't for the fact they were replying to a post where "X" was "NPT connections" and didn't include "like the Wilwood caliper/brake pipe adaptor connection, in fact here's a link to the Wilwood PDF saying you should ALWAYS use PTFE tape on those connections.".

    Always fun when some Internet expert manages to not read the psot they are replying to and so end up saying a major brake manufacturer is wrong about how to use their own products :)

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1

  10. Brake fluid change: pressure vs vacuum?

    in Tools

    Posted

    19 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    I've used most versions over the years; the Gunson Eezibleed exploded and blew fluid all over my bulkhead, the vacuum-operated ones didn't, and those cheap Chinese hand-pump suction thingies with the gauge on top are worse than useless. 

    I'll agree with those in the know, pedal pumping works best, and as a one-man job you can experiment so that you can get to the bleed nipple and retighten before the air goes anywhere near the system again.

     

    I feeling we might have identical "Shit brake bleeding devices" shelves in our garages, Colin!

    I've tried many things over the years and there's only 1 solo tool I found that actually works, works every time, and works well, and that's the £4 Vizibleed (or £9 version with integrated bottle if you don't have any jam jars).

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1

  11. Vitesse hi-beam H1 bulbs - recommendations?

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    If you just want functional then for relays just jumping on eBay and searching for "h4 relay" will being up loads of 'kits' that have pre-wired relays/fuses and that end in H4 adapter plugs.  If you have direct access to the bulbs you just pull the plug off the bulb/into the kit male, then the kit female goes onto the bulb.  At a guess the Vitesse lamps will be hidden in bowls like the Spitfire so the kit isn't QUITE as easy but just means a little (kit) wire snipping/bullet connector crimping.  And the kits cost less than you'd normally pay for a singhle relay, let alone all the wire.  The kit wire colours are...very non-standard though.  If you want it to look original you'll need to buy relays/wire/fuses and put it together yourself - or just hit it with some loom tape/conduit.

  12. Rear leaf spring

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    22 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    Just read online in another Triumph forum that back in the day springs were 'weighted' to the driver's side to prevent sag on that particular side, where the driver was in the vehicle much more than any passengers who would balance the weight.

    If that was the case then the driver's side would have to be identifiable for fitment. It seems this practice eventually died out resulting in springs having the same weighting or strengthening on both sides, but some still display the word 'front'.

    Wonder if that's true?

    Humm, not sure I'm buying that myself.

    First off a symetrical spring's going to be much cheaper to churn out than a biased one - and ours were cheap cars so every penny that could be pintched had to be.
    Second it means you need either dedicated left/right hand steer spring or be marking one arm "Drivers Side" rather than an edge "Front".  And that's making the assembly line task more complex and so slower.

    As others have said it was probably just to remove the ambiguity of "Which way around does this go?" on the line.  "Front" is unambiguous as every car on the line only has one front - even if it made no difference which way around the spring was actually fitted.

    • Like 1

  13. Vitesse hi-beam H1 bulbs - recommendations?

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Osram Night Breakers are about as good as halogen bulbs get and seem to come in H1 size.  Beyond that you could go for some H1 LED bulbs (which ARE legal again).

    I've gone for 4x dipped on my big saloon and not a miracle but does help - and having been told you can only have 2 dipped I tried and failed to actually find anything saying you COULDN'T do this.

  14. Spit 1500. Fuel tank vent.

    in Fuel System

    Posted

    14 hours ago, Unkel Kunkel said:

    For the UK market, the pipe was simply sealed off with a blind ended bit of rubber tube held by a clip and the tank was vented via the filler cap.

    ...Although given the pressure equalization noises I get opening my fuel filler cap I'm not convinced by the latter part of that statement!

  15. Spit 1500. Fuel tank vent.

    in Fuel System

    Posted

    19 minutes ago, johny said:

    Hmmm suppose you have to remember not to brim the tank?

    Probably safer with that set-up if you DO brim right up the filler hose. I mean the difference between vent pipe and perished/missing vent hole bung is between the excess petrol pouring out under the car...or into the boot!

  17. Starter motor wiring.

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    I started wired up with the original solenoid - until that failed in the engaged position, leading to a paniced dive into the boot to grab a spanner and disconnect the battery to stop it churning.

    So I rewired to use the built in solenoid - but that started sticking in the disengaged position and needing a wack to wake it up, especially restarting when warm.

    So I'm currently rewaired back to a new, original solenoid.

  20. ** ON TO THE NEXT BIT ** Nose to Tail - 1972 Spitfire MkIV restoration upgrades!!

    in My Triumph Restoration Project

    Posted

    Ah, but you'd have to ask Mr Cook if that was put there by the factory or a dealer/owner.

    Actually (yes work is slow today, why do you ask?) the cigar lighter's there in the "fitted to my GT6...shortly after I bought the car" but doesn't seem to be there in the "Mountney wood rimmed" photo below it (though it could be litterally JUST out of shot).

     

     

    <pedant>And that's the GT6 eyeball vent, not a dial</pedant>

  21. Braided earth strap

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    Ideally the live would be braided too but braised and insulated is tricky - for a start the flexing braiding the cable permits would mean wear between cable and insulation and when the insulation wears through on your unfused, direct batter positive cable and it earths out on, well anything metal...  Not going to end well.

    There's a few differences between the starter live and battery earth cables.

    Over life the 'normal' live cable will degrade due to vibration - but if correctly routed/clipped that will be to the copper conductors and not the insulation.  As a result you're unlikely to run out of insulation and short out, just run out of enough copper to power the starter.  At that point the worst case is you can't start your stationary car.
    On the other hand if that was your earth cable as the copper strands break internally you have less copper to carry power back to the battery that way.  As the whole body is part of the negative circuit that just means the electrons will find another route, through the choke/throttle cables for example.  None of those are meand for that load so will get hot and you have the risk of a fire.  Also while the starter live failing's only really an issue when you're stationary with the engine off the earth could fail while you're doing 70MPH on the motorway with an Audi right up your arse.  Lose the earth and would could lose the ignition circuit and have the engine just cut out (or find another earth and start a fire).  Neither great at 70MPH.

  22. ** ON TO THE NEXT BIT ** Nose to Tail - 1972 Spitfire MkIV restoration upgrades!!

    in My Triumph Restoration Project

    Posted

    OK, so working on the theory "Triumph didn't like to invest any money" I took a look at some 'roundtail' cockpit photos and:

    1. The roundtail Spitfires have a grab handle on the p/s, secured to the  dash facia by 3 bolts - which probably explains the near left/almost in the clock hole/bottom right holes.
    2. The roundtail GT6 Mk1 had it's two speed wiper switch on more or less the same position as the 'odd hole' - which while a dainty toggle on the cabin side Canley's show as being a chunky rectangular box behind the dash.

    If I had to guess I'd say Triumph just kept the same pressing, adding extra holes over the life of the car but not removing them so they could still just have a single part to stock in the spares store (and keep using the same old press tool rather than splashing out on a new one).  Maybe that early GT6 wiper switch mounted to the dash facia rather than metal panel so needed a hole big enough to pass through (and rounded corners are 'better' than square ones from the engineering PoV).

  24. ** ON TO THE NEXT BIT ** Nose to Tail - 1972 Spitfire MkIV restoration upgrades!!

    in My Triumph Restoration Project

    Posted

    19 hours ago, Badwolf said:

    Dashboard-10.thumb.jpg.d9540b14631eecdfc7fb3afa7f8d97a1.jpg

    As you can see, there is no provision in the metalwork for the cigar lighter at the bottom, just a hole for the locating bolts.

    The very bottom right hold looks to be about the right location and from memory isn't a mounting hole (that's just the far top left one and the one in the rectangular recess).  It's too small but that could just be down to the age of your car and Triumph just enlarged it on the pressing when they started using it for the cigar lighter mount?  Need a 'naked' late 1500 photo for comparison.

  25. ** ON TO THE NEXT BIT ** Nose to Tail - 1972 Spitfire MkIV restoration upgrades!!

    in My Triumph Restoration Project

    Posted

    Based on John Thomason's "Guide to Originality" book the lower position is the only 'correct' one for the cigar lighter.  'Early switchgear' cars didn't have one at all and 'TR7 switchgear' had one in that lower position.

    As for the clock there should already be a hole in the metal panel in that position - it's where the GT6 has one of its eyeball vents and they used the same pressing for both cars.

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