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SeanG

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Everything posted by SeanG

  1. just to clarify when people says "rocking" it means when both tappets are equal or when they both move at the same time and meet? thx
  2. thank you for answers, so then my question is, if i have aligned both dots on cam and crack, there is not many chances that timing between them is wrong right ? sorry to bother, but i m new to classic cars :-)
  3. Hey pete i ve just done this, found on other forum : You don't need "timing figures". Do it by the "Equal Lift on Overlap" method. Most camshafts, inc. Triumph ones, are symmetrical. The Inlet and Exhaust cams have the same shape and those for one cylinder are spaced symmetrically about the TDC position. Also, the cylinders are in pairs, exactly 180 degrees out of phase. So, as No.1 cylinder reaches TDC on the firing stroke, No.6 is finishing the exhaust stroke and starting the inlet stroke of a new cycle. Method: Set the crank at TDC for No1 and No.6. Set the camshaft so that the cams for No.6 are both equally lifted - Exhaust going down, Inlet going up. Fit the cam chain. Voila! Trust me. That is all, and your camshaft will be perfectly timed. John All went well, the marks on teeth aligned as well, then i re did your test with tappet 1 and 2 at 0.040" and still same problem, 1 is open and let a 0.008 in and the no2 is totaly closed, am i doing something wrong here or the info from the other forum is wrong ? Thx a lot for precious help
  4. 10 and 12 sorry (latex gloves on iphone !)
  5. On haynes it says when 10 and 13 are fully open, adjust 1 and 3. So was it not supposed to be 1 and 3 at 0.040" ?
  6. Thx a lot for help, did everything you said and unfortnately at the end, tappet no1 let a 0.08 gap in and no2 is blocked for same size... Does that mean have to open cover and re align everything ? Is the timing disc the only way ?
  7. Good morning folks, 2 days ago I changed the usual timing chain, tensioner, ring, etc kit for my GT6 MK3. (89K) Here is picture before/after. Anyway, I have a doubt now When I changed the chain, i didn t remove the sprocket crankshaft, only removed the camshaft one, when got it back with new chain, i carefully tried to align the dots, but now i got a doubt, that i may have rotate the crank a little bit without the chain so camshaft would have been "unsync". So yesterday, I checked TDC, and when the pulley align with the mark on the timing cover, piston no1 is at max, and if i rock the pulley, piston no1 will only come down either way. I suppose TDC mark is good then right ? but what about the camshaft ? is there a way for me to check ? while back someone told me for my MGB that to find exact TDC is when valve no4 is rocking, is there any way for me to check that crank and valve are "sync" with a similar method ? please don't tell me to buy a timing disc and start from scratch sorry for mega post !
  8. thx, yeah will run test on all, wet too, let you know for results ! fingers crossed
  9. Hi boys, girls. Still working on my project... managed to get the sump back on after lifting the engine, what a job! anyway, would like to run a compression test before going further. everything is off at the moment : no rad, hose, distributor, coil, alternator, carbs, fuel filter etc... so can i do a compression test with only battery and stater motor ? do i have to unplug any other cable ? thx for help
  10. Hello, I removed the old oil cooler from my GT6 project, it was leaking and cover in gunk, just thought it wasnt worth rebuild, so bought a 13row from rimmer. Now, is the oil thermostat a must ? there was no thermostat in the car, I own a MGB 1976 too, and no thermostat either. The thing is when i warm up the car, I drive very slow RPM, so the cooler is not gonna get the oil too cold right ? Any of you run without ? what is max time you think for engine to get to working temp? thx a lot for precious help ! ps : rimmer's thermostat is £54 Sean
  11. Hi dougbgt6, I was rebuilding the carbs this week and i found some old gasket blocked into the 2 tiny holes/vent, there are tiny littles disc that moves freely, but now they are stuck with the old gasket, i v tried to cleaned it, and i m gonna try them first because £50.00 for this is crazy !
  12. found it ! http://zenithcarb.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=B21019 way too expensive tho
  13. Hello, thx a lot for reply, I need this bit. http://www.triumphexp.com/phile/8/3846/cd150_011.jpg is it a starting valve ?
  14. Hi everyone ! any of you know where can I buy a starter assembly for my stromberg 150CD (triumph gt6 mk3) thx a lot
  15. still very cheap if they do all the work that s in the video with this standard, alright stupid question no2, cylinder head remanufacture is included too or just small engine ?
  16. on the PDF it says 2.5Pi/2500/TR250/TR5/TR6 £2574 so if i m member there is an extra 20% discount on that ?
  17. just saw this : they r not messing around...
  18. sorry i know it s stupid question but, what is club engines ? tx
  19. for sure clive, for now i m just trying to get as many options as possible, but unfortunately my budget is not huge. what do you reckon i should spend for a 2L GT6 MK3 with a transmission OD ? thx
  20. Hey everyone, I would need to get a new full engine on exchange basis, I just wanted to know if you knew who can supply it. Quillers do a very very cheap offer : £1800 for rebuilt unit, and pay £250 on surcharge (not amazing but ok) I just wondered what are the other options ? thx
  21. thx man, yeah it s on a project, there s no steering rack, radiator, etc, it's only me, the pan, and the car i ll try the hard way
  22. stuck with the pan, don t want to get back in, desperate
  23. any tip to put it back ? i need 2mm, it s so frustrating ! thx for post
  24. Hello everyone, hope you r enjoying this lovely sunny day ! (here in london anyway) Removing the oil pan from my GT6 1973, i found this at the bottom. It feels like it s gasket sealant, gooey silver paste. I was wondering it s not those silly "seal engine" or "fix head gasket leak" ? thx PS : can't put the pan back, my life is a nightmare
  25. Nice post, clean work.... I m changing the gasket to my sump on 1973 GT6 2.5, i think removing the sump with the engine in was the most challenging job i have done so far understand why haynes says it can only be done engine out ! hope it won t be as bad to put back in
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