Robin
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Posts posted by Robin
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15 hours ago, martyn wright said:
Take a look at Bodywork & fittings Page 14- Ref my 1600/6
Hi Martyn
Thanks for the link. Apologies as I think I've misled you - I need to replace the seal that sits in the quarter light channel for the window itself. Just trying to work out if I can remove the quater light assembly without removing the glass.
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1 hour ago, Nick Jones said:
You can adjust the effective stroke by moving the inside release handle assembly. It’s mounting holes are slotted for this purpose.
Nick
Thanks Nick
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Ok - thanks for the tips. Will give it a go
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Just has some bodywork done on my passenger door which involved removing the entire glass and mechanism. Now it's all back together I can open the door from the outside but not the inside - it looks as the the lock on the door itself isn't moving far enough when using the interior handle. Any ideas what could cause this?
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I need to replace the quaterlight seal - it it possible to remove the quaterlight without taking out the main window glass or does the glass need to come out first of all?
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8 hours ago, Roger K said:
I would try a helicoil to keep the thread size original. You might not be able to tap the helicoil tang out but that probably doesn't matter.
So does the helicoil go into the captive plate thread?
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I’ve just replaced the rubber seal on the passenger quarterlight but I had to drill out the brass rivet that holds the the glass in place to do so. Is it best to try a re-rivet this or use a small nut and bolt? Can you get brass rivets?
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27 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
There's a small hole in all of the A-posts, just off centre towards the bottom - put there by the factory. The captive plates are fitted to the rear of the outer panel before it's all welded together, so can't be accessed without cutting more holes or splitting the welds! Not easy... so replacement is a major job. If someone has already cut holes then that's a big bonus.
If you can manage to get a nut onto the bolt it will grip the bolt, same as the captive plate did, and so still allow the same range of movement. The entire plate moves, not just the bolts as if they were in slotted holes. If you tap out the plate to take a (slightly) larger bolt eg metric, the plate should now still grip the bolt as it would have originally so no need for a nut.
Thanks Colin - that's really good to know.
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50 minutes ago, Paul H said:
Unless the Club Shop have a different supplier , their hazard kit is not a good buy in my opinion, The relay went on mine and then the red plastic reflector wouldn’t stay on due to poor threads which in turn meant the bulb pings out into the car, never to be found again. The club did replace the relay but couldn’t return the rest as I trimmed the wiring . There are others on EBay different style which are low £20’s which work better plus the wiring is much easier to fit though doesn’t look as Classic . My views are known to the Club.
PaulOk - thanks Paul
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I'm going to buy the hazard warning light kit from the club for my vitesse but are there any suggestions as to connecting the wires? I'm assuming scotchlocks are a no go?
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On 20/04/2021 at 21:21, Pete Lewis said:
yes agree with colin access is not easy , i have also suggested a hole saw to align and poke a socket with a nut inside through to fit the end of the bolt
access to the caged plate is not easy
Pete
Quick update...
As Pete mentioned - It looks like someone has has cut a small access hole in the A frame at the bottom which was hidden by the footwell side carpet. They've also drilled through the inner casing at the bottom and attached nuts to the oversized bolts. So, three questions..
1. I'm assuming that by attaching bolts to the nuts it removes the ability to adjust the bottom door hinge?
2. If the captive plate has been tapped to take a bigger bolt, does it still need a nut on the end or can I remove them and retain some adjustment?
3. Is it possible to replace the captive plate?
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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
if you drill out the hinge holes to suit the oversize this wont affect the plate which will still move about for some adjustment
the plate is not as thick as a nut so they strip easy if overtightened
torqure is reduced to 16/18 lbft where as a std nut would be more 19/21 lbft
so hand tight , thats a nip and a short turn
Pete
Hi Pete - so do the bolts just go through the threaded plate i.e the bolts don’t have a nut on the end?
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19 minutes ago, Gary Flinn said:
There is a shaped Threaded Captive Plate, if striped you can tap up the next size or go metric.
The original threads are 5/16" UNF (1/2" AF spanner) you can re-tap 3/8" UNF (9/16" AF Spanner) but you may have to drill out the hinge holes slightly
M10 might be the Best Metric size but not 100% sure on this?
Regards
Thanks Gary - so if you tap up can you still make adjustments or is it fixed?
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Does anyone know how the door hinges bolts are attached to the A frame on a Vitesse (or Herald)? Is there a captive nut within the A frame itself? If there is and the thread is stripped how do you get access other than cutting away the A frame metal from inside the car?
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2 minutes ago, Robin said:
Thanks for all the advice. It sounds as though the simple approach would be to connect directly to the battery with an in line fuse and a suitable earth. I plan to only use my phone (USB) or sat nav (12v) when the car is running so don’t think this will cause any battery drain.
Ah - just re-read Clive’s comment about the USB charger unit drawing power from the battery even when nothing is connected. So could I connect the 12v supply directly to the battery and the 5v supply to the radio connection?
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Thanks for all the advice. It sounds as though the simple approach would be to connect directly to the battery with an in line fuse and a suitable earth. I plan to only use my phone (USB) or sat nav (12v) when the car is running so don’t think this will cause any battery drain.
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12 hours ago, NonMember said:
Indeed you can't. The ignition bulb provides starter current to the alternator so it needs to be of a sufficient power rating. An LED just won't provide enough.
Thanks Rob
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12 hours ago, daverclasper said:
Does this mean if the the bulbs blown or not sufficient, it won't supply the alternator/dynamo to work?.
Cheers , Dave
Dave - thought that might be the case. So if I keep the original filament bulb for the ignition light but keep LEDs for all of the others then that should be ok?
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I’d like to connect a 12v and 5v socket (pic attached ) so I can power a sat nav or charge my phone whilst driving. What’s the best way to wire this in?
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Just now, Robin said:
Have replaced all of the dash lights with led versions and must admit they are much better. The only problem is that the led for the red ignition light stays on constantly when the engine is running so I’ve switched this bulb back to the original and all is fine. I’m assuming that you can’t use a led replacement for the ignition bulb?
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Have replaced all of the dash lights with led versions and must admit they are much better. The only problem is that the led for the red ignition light stays on constantly when the engine is running so I’ve switched this bulb back to the original and all is fine. I’m assuming that you can’t use a led replacement for the ignition bulb?
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24 minutes ago, clive said:
I think Richards may be a Canley version. I had one one mine, an excellent choice. Not daft loud, reasonably free flowing. A good compromise. Otherwise the Canley single box sports exhaust is a very good choice, I know of several cars fitted with them, and travelled long distances with those cars in europe.
The sports exhausts do diddly squat for performance, better results to be had from a few hours on the rolling road. (OK, JT did the tests on a sports exhaust, it made a few% difference, the manifold similar at a f=different point in teh rev range. At best you may get 5-10%, but remember the car was optimised (ie needles swapped etc) to get the max power/torque for each setup. This would be an expensive experiment to repeat!)
Hi Clive - where did you get yours from? I’ve heard mixed reviews about the Bell’s version the shop sells.
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So I wonder if the semi sports box that the club shop is selling would be a suitable choice?
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
Robin
the std tail pipe was a 35mm pea shooter
I have got a used stainless one going spare if you need one
semi sports do sound nice but results on how loud vary, from cool to awful
no idea what triumph did to design the small outlet as it doesnt match the input diameter
but a swap is only a few miles away
Pete
Hi Pete
just sent you an email
robin
Triumph Vitesse quaterlight
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Hi Again
Think my original post may be confusing...
I need to replace the felt seal in the quarter light channel where the main window sits when it's wound up or down (not the quater light glass seal). So I'm trying to work out if I can remove the quaterl ight frame from the door to fit the new felt seal without removing the main window glass.