Robin
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Posts posted by Robin
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18 hours ago, Dave1360 said:
If the valve is shut then nothing should fall out from the bottom of the matrix, but there's bound to be a bit in the pipes that will spill out when you disconnect and move them.
Ok - thanks
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So if I swop them around as per the manual do I need to drain the coolant out of the heater again or can I swap without doing this?
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8 minutes ago, NonMember said:
I don't think it matters terribly much. As you have it, the valve controls the water returning from the heater matrix to the engine. The other way, it controls the hot water coming into the heater. Either way, if the valve's open it flows and if it's closed it doesn't.
Ok - good to know. Thanks
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Hi Again
In I previous post I asked for help in sorting out my heater problems - and that's now all fixed.
But I've just seen s post on FB that shows that I've connected the hoses the wrong way round - I think the hose from the intelt manifold should be connected to the heater valve and the bottom hose connected to the heater. From the picture you'll see mine is the other way round. Everything seems to be working Ok so my question is am I OK to leave it as it is or should I re-connect the right way round?
Thanks
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3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
well I leave Robin to confirm she's running ok but apart from some wear ?? allowing rear balance idle being a bit high and not responding to idle screws the main problem was
front diaphragm dimples out of place putting the air piston 90deg out and set both jets to 2mm down and all tickety boo
all done from 6ft away magic
hopefully he is on his way home with a few more horses
Pete
Yep - much better!
Thanks Pete
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15 hours ago, NonMember said:
Weird!! I can't really see how getting some throttle opening on the front would cause a float problem on the rear. Unless... you actually have a fault on the rear float valve but when the whole engine is idling on a single throttle it draws just enough air (and hence fuel) to prevent it overflowing. If so, the correct approach is to fix both problems - clean the rubber sliver out of the rear float valve and adjust the front idle stop to get equal air through both carbs.
Agree - Weird!!
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24 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
yes thats a plan friday might be best
stick your finger in is there any fuel around the top of the jet ???
pete
Hi Pete
ok - tried increasing the idle screw on the front carb to increase the revs and this time when I lift the piston the engine does respond but at the same time the rear carb starts to leak Petrol through the brass tube. When I decrease the idle screw on the front carb, raising the piston has no effect but the rear carb no longer leaks.
think Friday would be good! Is 10am ok?
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15 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
thats awfully wrong, can you get her over to sunny luton ????
is there any sign of fuel at the jet orifice ??? in the throat
Pete
Hi Pete
i’m going to have another play today but if I get no luck I could get over to you on Friday or Saturday morning if you’re ok with that - we can keep our distance!
Robin
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14 hours ago, NonMember said:
I assume you're raising the piston at idle, not when you're checking the performance 😁 If the linkage is only a bit off, so that the front throttle opens less than the rear, you may not notice the power being low, but you could be getting almost no air through the front carb at idle, which would explain why lifting the piston has no effect. It would also explain the rear piston rising faster than the front when you rev it.
(When my GT6 was "gutless" the linkage had come completely loose and the front throttle stayed at its idle position even at wide-open pedal.)
Yep- that pretty much sums it up - So I guess I need to check the linkage. Is it just a question of loosening the linkage bolt?
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48 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
it could still be the front carb is low on fuel
when you lift it ....how far ???
as suggested do the two throttle plate actually open ..is the front one staying closed ???
Pete
Hi Pete
i can lift the piston on the front as high as it goes but no change of engine note. Also if I lift the Piston and then rev the engine I can see the throttle plate opening so I assume the linkage is working ok. Overall performance seems fine.
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1 hour ago, NonMember said:
As others have hinted, that sounds to me like the front throttle plate is fully shut and the engine is running entirely on the rear carb. Adjust as Pete says but beware of slippy linkages. Both my Vitesse and GT6 have, at various times, suffered from a loose linkage resulting in the front carb not opening. On the GT6 it just made it feel gutless - nice and smooth still but no power - whereas the Vitesse managed also to overheat (but the difference is probably down to having slipped while driving in the Cairngorms whereas the GT6 did it in East Anglia)
Will try and check everything as Pete suggests but the performance seems ok - not down on power. Can’t work out why raising the piston on the front carb has no effect on the engine revs .
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Hi Johny
thanks for the reply. With the engine off the piston on both carbs rises and falls correctly but when I start the engin the piston On the rear rises slightly on tick over (about 700 rpm) but falls when switched off. When accelerating, , the piston on the rear carb rises before the front one. The other thing is that no matter how high I raise the piston on the front carb it makes no difference the the engine note so I’m not sure if this is a problem and if it is how to fix it. Any ideas?
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Not sure if this is relevant but the rear carb piston raises about 3mm before the front carb piston starts to raise when accelerating. Should both pistons raise at the same time?
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And this shows the ‘hissing’ from the rear carb
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Hi All
Quick update - took the carbs off, cleaned out the float chambers and valves and everything now seems ok - no more petrol leak. But I’m now after some more advice...
I ‘v just noticed that the piston on the front carb sits flat but on the rear carb the piston is raised slightly ( see photos). Also, when I raise the piston on the front carb, there’s no affect on the revs but if I raise the piston on the rear carb it cuts out straight away. There’s also a more pronounced ‘hissing’ on the rear carb which I assume is air being sucked In?
Any thoughts as to what I should do?
thanks
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I’m going to check the float chamber for debris - how do I check if the floats are solid or hollow as this seems to affect the float height.
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2 minutes ago, Paul H said:
I modified an old 1/2 ins spanner , shortened and ground the top and bottom edges to remove the 4 nuts easily . Makes removal and refitting much easier . I’ve got the T shirt for rubber slivers due to fake R9 tubing . The coloured tape is to make sure the spanner goes back in the tool box which I carry in my Vitesse
Paul
Thank Paul
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7 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
its easier with the carbs off but have a try just the 6 bowl screws and gently pull the chamber bowl down , dont tear the gasket
the bit where you need to be an acrobat is the float and its valve are under the main body and vision is not as easy as on the kitchen table
the needle valves have a variety of af spanner sizes can be a faf getting a size and fit
just go steady ,
Pete
Thanks Pete - think I’ll remove the carbs to make it easier -
So can I take the float chamber off with the carbs still on the car or do I need to take them off again
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50 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
definitely the float chamber vent port
if you disturbed any fuel hose there is a good chance refit has presented you with the dreaded rubber sliver ,bit of hose gets cut off when you insert the metal tube
this then floats about in the pipe work and ends up jammed in the back of the float needle assy
good site for pretty picture is https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/carburetors
ignore its aimed at TR the basics are very similar .
Pete
Pete - if I just want to check the float chamber with the carbs out of the car is it just a case of undoing the 6 screws and lifting it off or do I nee to take the piston out first as described in the article?
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4 minutes ago, NonMember said:
Do you mean the copper pipe with the flange in the upper right hole of the air filter face? I think that's the float chamber breather, so any fuel coming out there suggests your float valve is stuck open, or the fuel pump pressure is too high.
Ok thanks - I’ll check the float valve as a starter
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More advice needed!
I had a heater problem on my vitesse which is now fixed but in order to do so I had to take the twin CD 150 carbs off and the inlet manifold. I put everything back but noticed a small drip coming from the copper tube on the front carb and this poured out once the engine was turned off. I didn’t. Do anything the carbs when they were off the car so it may be just co-incidence and I hadn’t noticed as the copper tube would be covered when the air filter box is on. Any thoughts as to what might cause the petrol leak?
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Quick update ...
I finally took delivery of a 6mm x600 mm and an 8mm x 600 mm drill bit. I took the manifold off and put the 6mm down first of all and the blockage was absolutely solid. It took 3 or 4 goes of quite heavy pressure but eventually it gave way. I then put the 8mm down to free the rest and flushed everything until a good flow of clear water ran through. Connected everything back up and ran the car up to temperature and hey presto the heater now works! Thanks to everyone for their advice and support.
But .. I now have a carburettor problem which I’ll post in the fuel section
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Out of interest ANG is selling a drain tap - part number 602915A - but says it for a TR. will this fit the vitesse / 2000 as well? Does it need a fibre washer? Or is the general consensus just to fit a plug (HU805) and if so does this need a fibre washer as well ?
Stromberg CD150S
in Fuel System
Posted
more advice needed...
I’ve got a spare set of CD150S carbs that I’d like to refurbish. I checked the stamp on the needle of one of the carbs and it reads 6AC - is that the correct needle for a standard Mk2 vitesse engine? I undid the piston grub screw on the second carb but the needle simple won’t budge - even with quite a lot of force. I’m going to replace the needle anyway so don’t mind damaging it but are there any tips on how to get it out? Thanks