Unkel Kunkel
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Posts posted by Unkel Kunkel
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5 hours ago, alan.gilbert_6384 said:
Hi Can post a link to your post, I dont seem to be able to find it, thanks.
Please see my post “Spitfire front braided hose specs” 27 Oct 2021.
Have to admit to my ignorance - sorry, not sure how to do that, Alan
here is a screen shot if it helps ..
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On 18/02/2023 at 14:38, alan.gilbert_6384 said:
Hi All,
So after a complete braking system rebuild pipes hoses seals etc, tested yesterday and functions correctly, BUT..........
Just after a second opinion, I think these new front hoses, as supplied by Mev spares, are way too short. I will try to contact him but dont hold out much hope as he does not answer either the get in touch thing on the web site or the phone.
What do you guys think ?
I went down this avenue a couple of years ago.
Please see my post “Spitfire front braided hose specs” 27 Oct 2021.
Some years earlier I had bought a pair GB216GR from Rimmer but had only just got around to fitting them.
They looked too tight on full lock.
When I contacted them, Rimmer’s no longer listed GBH216GR but listed GBH216PLUS 50 and they said,
“GBH216PLUS50 should address the issues you are having”
My issue was that GBH216GR hoses looked too short to me.
- They are.
I fitted Earle ( GBH 211S, I think ) above, from Paddocks
The difference isn’t large, but significant.
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Another area for bulkhead seal failure is the fuse box
1.- the grommet perishes, as elsewhere.
2. also the box itself is a plastic clip- fit to compress a sponge gasket.
These clips seem to break off easily..
The result is a big gap.
Replacement of the box is currently £61 ( Rimmers)
A cheaper solution is to fit M4 Riv nuts and then use M4 pan head set screws and washers :
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Grey ! - Surely there must be more than just “fifty shades”.
It will go out of fashion as surely as 1970s Avocado bathroom suites, but for now grey still seems the reflex decision for those who wish to “modernise” their home- for floors, carpets,curtains, furniture, garden furniture , fences snd sheds ,kitchen cabinets,- even for.. “white goods “.
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7 hours ago, foshi said:
str
seems to work well around the herald vitesse engine cross member where the engine leaks , sure no one uses old engine oil anymore .
I know what you mean - around engine and gearbox, we've all seen it.
This is oil leakage / mist that began to land on fresh new paint even before our cars even left the showroom, going on to protect the the paint and hence the metal, even when there were small breaks in it - a continuing process over years.
I think this is different to trying to protect other areas like hidden box areas which have had no or very little prior protection. Years on, that old oil is coming pretty late on the scene and in some areas the process is well underway.
If you have to use oil.at a guess EP gear oil would seem more tenacious.
- it’s just that there are better things now.
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The “old engine oil” method is definitely not one I would go for.
There are far more pleasant liquids to use for a job that isn’t frequently needed, and even they don’t make the job that much fun!
Over the last 40 years , it has become recognized that using old engine oil ( other issues apart) means that after spending an afternoon guddling around in the filthy stuff and finally emerging looking like the “creature from the black lagoon” , it really isn’t that good as an anti-rust treatment mainly because of the acidic contaminants. -
I have used Waxoyl and Dinitrol over the years
They are slightly different Wxl.is waxey, Dntl.more oily but both do their job.
Don’t use either now as a few years ago I came across a different product from a motor factors which I regard as superior to both:
Kent Wax Coat
Easier to use, remarkably tenacious and come in shutz cans or aerosol with a fairly long probe.
opaque brown, sl less oily than Dntl much less waxy than Wxl.
Doesn’t don’t need diluting and (depending on time of year) doesn’t need any warming*
The aerosol has a lance ( which I was surprised to find actually works ) which is easily long enough for doors, sills and most other cavities including some chassis areas
And it has quite a nice smell.
I note that I put the price on the aerosol -£7.40 in Dec 22( a slightly discounted price)
Apart from Kent I have found another product by INDASA very similar.
*If you use Waxoyl, it almost always requires diluting - and warming.
It is flammable, especially diluted with white spirit.
Being a conscientious and dedicated coward, I would not heat it over any form of naked flame.
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Depends on what the piston and the bore are like.
If there is doubt about the surfaces being corroded :replace.
Certainly do as a pair.
Depending on history, maybe a time to review other parts of the hydraulic system.
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Trust it all goes well, Steve.
Had a review of my My Eezi-bleed parts - various bits acquired over a few years.
The “original”kit ( they were cheaper then … £4.50! ) came with a “multipurpose” top ( up to 67 mm dia .) with a strap arrangement to hold it on and have a few others and the original instructions.. “ plus details of how to get other sizes FREE”
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My “better half” had a Ford Cmax 2007 with a key entry bonnet release operated by a short cable - which failed.
How to open the bonnet,now ?
Looking on line, there were various options.
There was a quick way- but that involved cutting a hole in the bonnet with an angle grinder..
Instead, I struggled with variations of all the slower, but less destructive approaches.
I did it - but It took around four hours.
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If you find the cap you have ordered doesn’t fit ( they need to be a good fit), send me the dimensions of cap required and I will see if I have one -I have acquired a few different sizes.
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You are very fortunate!
The Torque Appliance piston ring compressor is one of those neat tools which, for some reason are nice to have even if rarely used -and still in its box too.
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People who borrow often do not value what they have been loaned otherwise they would have one themselves.
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A long, long time ago.. there were some wonderful things called “ABV”s - automatic bleed valves.They were fitted in place of the standard bleed valves.
Changing fluid, or bleeding the brakes was so quick and simple.
It just meant undoing all the ABVs half a turn or so then it only needed one person pumping the pedal a few times.
The main thing was being watchful of the m/c reservoir level.
Short piece of tubing and jar to each ABV avoided mess, but wasn’t required for the bleeding process itself.
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Silicone brake fluid is hardly a new thing -it has been around since the seventies.
It was an answer to the problem of fluid deterioration and adverse effects on hydraulics in infrequently used military vehicles which could be stored for prolonged periods.
A situation in some ways applicable to my Triumph- that’s why I use it.
In my ‘daily use “ vehicle, I use Dot 4 and change it every 2 years.
I can’t say I have noticed any differences in bleeding either of them - or in any other way.
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Methylated spirit will contain water - around 5% , but I don’t think that is an issue in itself but I question the need to use methylated spirit at all.
The main attraction of Dot 5 is not having to change it for a very long time. Therefore it seems a very appropriate time to do a full hydraulic overhaul before changing to it ie all the seals - and all the hoses.
Any Dot 4 : Dot 5 compatibility concerns become irrelevant and the bleeding process will flush any remaining tiny traces in the metal pipes.
This should give a thoroughly overhauled hydraulic system that should be fine - for many years to come.
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Depends how much pressure has dropped and whether it’s continuing to fall.
The low ambient temperature you will have been experiencing in in England recently will certainly cause a drop - around 2 - 3 psi per 10 C as per Gas Law physics. Though you would this expect to be broadly similar for the other 3 tyres under similar conditions and it would be stable at a particular temperature.
I have no experience with a tubeless valve stem of the type you describe that requires a nut to be tightened to effect a seal against the wheel rim so can’t comment other than say I am not aware of cold weather being a cause of leaks in any part of any tyre / valve system.I would be reluctant to accept it as a cause and view that part as faulty.
I am sure others with more experience will provide more insight.
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Probably lots of people know this, but late as usual, it came as a surprise to me
About this familiar thing:
- Helical spring washer.
How many times have we chased after these darned things.
There is strong evidence , first shown by a chap calked Junkers in 1968 and more recently by NASA and again on a U tube “ Bolt Science “ that they are not much use- indeed .. useless.
Since bolts can even be shown to loosen easier and quicker if they are used, they are not only useless, but it could be argued that they actually are worse than useless.
Well, that goes against the grain a bit, doesn’t it ?
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I bought an ABAC 60 litre 3 h.p. .. years ago.
I can recommend as had no problems at all.
Runs on ordinary 13 amp domestic mains.
Output surprisingly good
It is reasonably quiet. It is belt drive - beware some direct drive compressors they can be very noisy)
Italian-made.Seems good quality.
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I have only dismantled a “ Swing Spring “ on a Mk 1V , however I understand the spring for a MK I is a six leaf thing which is even more basic:
This should come apart fairly easily apart from the bit Pete mentioned and advised about - removing the shackle bushes - the outer part of the bush needs to be cut through and collapsed (hack saw) or pressed out ( takes some doing with a big G clamp or a proper press,
Only then will you be able to push in in your polyurethane bushes - so much easier.
As for “ button” / “ isolators” or what ever you call them - they are usually miserably squashed useless flat things.Can replace like for like or upgrade to more modern material( there’s loads of discussion on this website and elsewhere on this topic).They can compensate for a degree of spring sag but conversely can make the rear end of the car sit too high if the “ Buttons” are make too thick. Many “replacement” springs omit them.
The subject of whether to lubricate laminated springs probably goes back to the earliest “horseless carriages”!
Some advocate it.Some don’t - as per Pete’s comments.There are compromises - “dry” lubricants such as graphite based stuff.
( The original Triumph service schedule for these cars does mention lubricating them)
Don’t assume that a replacement spring will be better simply because it is “new” and it therefore must be better because it is replacing something “old”
That ain’t necessarily so…
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Brake failure, fifty years or so ago, driving my father’s Ford 105e Anglia.Hot weather, very long journey across Lancs, Yorks and on to Lincolnshire coast.
Pedal to the floor.. No foot brake!
Old fluid boiled, I think, but what ever the cause, the master cylinder spewed its contents out through the hole in the master cylinder cap - over much of the under bonnet area.
Nothing dramatic, really.
.. but thankful for a reasonably good handbrake.
Brake Hydraulics, especially brake fluid = Respect !
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We can speculate as to causes - whether boiling brake fluid, stuck m, cylinder valve , combination of factors etc etc.
but it has to be seen for what it is - a hydraulic system failure,( even if some function was recovered).
To have confidence restored following such an incident, an overhaul with seals or cylinder replacements and a fluid change would be the next step for me , I think.
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16 hours ago, ahebron said:
phosgene which is very similar to 'mustard gas'
Both highly toxic - otherwise not similar.
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I know it seems traditional to “ Take the weight off the wheels” but is it really necessary?
Sounds like something from the 1911 AutoCar handbook for something for the chauffeur to do in your “ Motor House” for the winter.
How many folk really do this?
Presumably to avoid “flat spot”s on the tyres ?
Any other reason ?
How much of a concern is this -won’t this just revert after travelling a short distance as the tyres warm -and would’t this tendency be adequately addressed by inflating the tyres an extra 10 psi ?
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Stainless steel braided hoses, too short ???
in Braking System
Posted
Thanks